R
RonSonic
Guest
On 22 Jul 2005 22:11:06 -0700, "NYC XYZ" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>Hank Wirtz wrote:
>>
>>
>> You're paying attention to a 4-oz difference in weight, then
>> contemplating putting on a 4-lb saddle? (FWIW, my sister-in-law has that
>> saddle, and I guess she likes it, but it weighs more than her rear
>> wheel).
>
>Holy Hell's Angels, that weighs more than my ass! Thanks for the
>info...hmm...wonder if there are any ergonomic seats that are very
>light?
"In some distant land it is possible that bicycle seats are made out of rainbow
and stuffed with cloud. In this world it's easier to just get used to something
hard."
Heres the deal, upright position puts more weight on your ass it also forces
your legs around the saddle at an awkward angle unless you set the seat too low.
Which puts yet more weight on your ass and kills your pedalling efficiency.
That big sofa-like saddle will require that you set it low.
There is no reason for a saddle like that to be light. It simply cannot be fast
anyway.
>> Low weight does not equal performance, except maybe psychologically. If
>> you want to shave grams, pee before you ride. That's about the
>> difference we're talking here. Performance is going to come from having
>> a good-fitting bike that you ride a whole bunch.
>
>LOL -- of course!
>
>But the fit being equal, how do the specs read to you? I don't know
>why they bother with Shimano this and Bontrager that...do even the
>"pros" know what it means?? Reads like mattress advertising....
Fit is never equal. As for all the brand names and model numbers, aren't you the
guy whining that the components might not be adequate to your demands. If you
want to be a weenie and fuss about that sort of thing, then get weenie about it
and fuss about that sort of thing.
>I'm a fast rider...I can keep up with my messenger friend who races on
>the weekends (though we've never actually raced per se, given our very
>different bikes). I say this so that you know I'm not stuck on
>components like they were magic or something. In this particular case,
>my natural inclination is to get the flat-bar bike, but it seems like
>the componentry on the drop-bar may be substantially better.
Better for WHAT? For WHOM? How good do the parts have to be. Shimano LX is
perfectly adequate for pounding through the mountains why won't is suffice for
you?
>> Like I say, fit is really the most important thing, and if you say you
>> want comfort and performance, you are not likely to get either from a
>> bike you can't test-ride first. Get yourself into a LBS and have them
>> find you something that is just right for you. They can swap out stems
>> and handlebars and seats (for a small upcharge usually, sometimes
>> they'll do even trades) and get it dialled in. Mail-order shops can't do
>> that for you.
>
>Only problem is that these particular bikes sound like real sweet deals
>and aren't available except online from the manufacturer.
You don't know enough about bikes to be buying that way. Bottom line.
>What's the big deal with the "fit," though? An 18" frame is an
>18"...and the seat posts adjust, etc. I really wanted to know what the
>components of the drop-bar are like compared to those of the flat-bar.
No, an 18" mountain bike is not the same as an 18" comfort bike and not at all
like an 18" drop bar road bike.
The components are different to suit the fact that they are on entirely
different styles of bike. They are perfectly good components and work far better
than you ride.
>> As far as caliper brakes...why not? These aren't mountain bikes. They're
>> light enough and strong enough for 100% of the TDF field, and those guys
>> descend at 50 mph. The _only_ reason they don't use them on dirt bikes
>> is for tire clearance.
>
>I thought the V-brakes stop better? I went from cantilever brakes on a
>chromoly to the old Trek 7500 (the old one, not the current one -- why
>did they change the frame geometry? It seems like everyone's hybrid
>line has got the angled top tube now) with aluminum and V-brakes...cool
>stuff.
How bad do you need to stop? Calipers work fine for what they are.
>> Sorry if you're getting dogpiled here, but you really should do some
>> test rides of both flat- and drop-bar bikes before you try to make your
>> decision based on Ti vs. Al or 18.2 vs. 18.6.
>
>I'm sure I won't like drop-bars since I think the typical flat-bar
>forces me to hunch over as it is! I always raise the headset (correct
>term?) myself...upright means comfort!
Upright means slow and your ass hurts.
>> To answer your overall question, I'd go for the drop-bar bike, but
>> that's because I like drop bars, not because of its componentry or frame
>> material.
>
>I suppose I could always raise the drop-bars too?
>
>When hunched over, my back really becomes the rear suspension!
Use your legs.
>What's it mean that the Airborne Thunderbolt comes in 10-speed (is that
>right, only ten speeds????) "double" or 10-speed "triple"????
Ten cogs times whatever's at the front.
Ron
>
>Hank Wirtz wrote:
>>
>>
>> You're paying attention to a 4-oz difference in weight, then
>> contemplating putting on a 4-lb saddle? (FWIW, my sister-in-law has that
>> saddle, and I guess she likes it, but it weighs more than her rear
>> wheel).
>
>Holy Hell's Angels, that weighs more than my ass! Thanks for the
>info...hmm...wonder if there are any ergonomic seats that are very
>light?
"In some distant land it is possible that bicycle seats are made out of rainbow
and stuffed with cloud. In this world it's easier to just get used to something
hard."
Heres the deal, upright position puts more weight on your ass it also forces
your legs around the saddle at an awkward angle unless you set the seat too low.
Which puts yet more weight on your ass and kills your pedalling efficiency.
That big sofa-like saddle will require that you set it low.
There is no reason for a saddle like that to be light. It simply cannot be fast
anyway.
>> Low weight does not equal performance, except maybe psychologically. If
>> you want to shave grams, pee before you ride. That's about the
>> difference we're talking here. Performance is going to come from having
>> a good-fitting bike that you ride a whole bunch.
>
>LOL -- of course!
>
>But the fit being equal, how do the specs read to you? I don't know
>why they bother with Shimano this and Bontrager that...do even the
>"pros" know what it means?? Reads like mattress advertising....
Fit is never equal. As for all the brand names and model numbers, aren't you the
guy whining that the components might not be adequate to your demands. If you
want to be a weenie and fuss about that sort of thing, then get weenie about it
and fuss about that sort of thing.
>I'm a fast rider...I can keep up with my messenger friend who races on
>the weekends (though we've never actually raced per se, given our very
>different bikes). I say this so that you know I'm not stuck on
>components like they were magic or something. In this particular case,
>my natural inclination is to get the flat-bar bike, but it seems like
>the componentry on the drop-bar may be substantially better.
Better for WHAT? For WHOM? How good do the parts have to be. Shimano LX is
perfectly adequate for pounding through the mountains why won't is suffice for
you?
>> Like I say, fit is really the most important thing, and if you say you
>> want comfort and performance, you are not likely to get either from a
>> bike you can't test-ride first. Get yourself into a LBS and have them
>> find you something that is just right for you. They can swap out stems
>> and handlebars and seats (for a small upcharge usually, sometimes
>> they'll do even trades) and get it dialled in. Mail-order shops can't do
>> that for you.
>
>Only problem is that these particular bikes sound like real sweet deals
>and aren't available except online from the manufacturer.
You don't know enough about bikes to be buying that way. Bottom line.
>What's the big deal with the "fit," though? An 18" frame is an
>18"...and the seat posts adjust, etc. I really wanted to know what the
>components of the drop-bar are like compared to those of the flat-bar.
No, an 18" mountain bike is not the same as an 18" comfort bike and not at all
like an 18" drop bar road bike.
The components are different to suit the fact that they are on entirely
different styles of bike. They are perfectly good components and work far better
than you ride.
>> As far as caliper brakes...why not? These aren't mountain bikes. They're
>> light enough and strong enough for 100% of the TDF field, and those guys
>> descend at 50 mph. The _only_ reason they don't use them on dirt bikes
>> is for tire clearance.
>
>I thought the V-brakes stop better? I went from cantilever brakes on a
>chromoly to the old Trek 7500 (the old one, not the current one -- why
>did they change the frame geometry? It seems like everyone's hybrid
>line has got the angled top tube now) with aluminum and V-brakes...cool
>stuff.
How bad do you need to stop? Calipers work fine for what they are.
>> Sorry if you're getting dogpiled here, but you really should do some
>> test rides of both flat- and drop-bar bikes before you try to make your
>> decision based on Ti vs. Al or 18.2 vs. 18.6.
>
>I'm sure I won't like drop-bars since I think the typical flat-bar
>forces me to hunch over as it is! I always raise the headset (correct
>term?) myself...upright means comfort!
Upright means slow and your ass hurts.
>> To answer your overall question, I'd go for the drop-bar bike, but
>> that's because I like drop bars, not because of its componentry or frame
>> material.
>
>I suppose I could always raise the drop-bars too?
>
>When hunched over, my back really becomes the rear suspension!
Use your legs.
>What's it mean that the Airborne Thunderbolt comes in 10-speed (is that
>right, only ten speeds????) "double" or 10-speed "triple"????
Ten cogs times whatever's at the front.
Ron