how do you change tyres??

  • Thread starter juggling_unicyclist_joe
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juggling_unicyclist_joe

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hi
i have had my tyre changed many times by my local bike shop and i am
intrested in knowing how to do it myself to save the cost of them doing
it for me.

an someone please let me know how to change my regular 20"x1.85" tyre to
a nice fat onza sticky fingers 20"x2.40" tyre?

thanks very much joe


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just purchase some tire levers from your LBS (local bike shop) or an
outdoors store like R.E.I.
Just use those to pry each side of the tire out, and if you don't know
exactly how, just watch/ask the bikeshop guys. Some tires are big enough
that you can pry them off w/o tire levers, but when I'm riding, I always
bring my tire levers and a patch kit in order to fix flats. (To fix
flats just pry off one side of the tire and pull the innertube out)
good luck,
hope this helps


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1) Deflate the tyre.
2) remove the wheel.
3) Push the valve stem as if you were trying to push it all the way
through the hole (in fact, you're just breaking any "stiction" there
might be.)
4) Work round the tyre, pushing the edges of the tyre towards the
centre line of the wheel, to break the contact between the tyre bead and
the rim.
5) Starting diametrically opposite the valve, use a tyre lever to hook
the bead and lever it out of the rim, on one side of the wheel only.
Don't pull it all the way, just make a gap.
6) Using another tye lever, lever out the next bit of bead (so the
levers should be only 2 - 4 inches apart (5 - 10 cm).
7) Once you have an "edge" you can quickly remove the rest of the
bead.
8) You have now removed one side of the tyre.
9) Carefully pull out the inner tube.
10) PUll the valve through the hole in the rim.
11) You have now removed the tube.
12) You should now be able to remove the other tyre bead easily. Use
levers if necessary.
13) You have now completely removed the tyre and tube.
14) Check that the rim tap is in position. This stops the ends of the
spokes digging into the tube. Also, make sure that the valve hole in
the rim tape is positioned over the hole in the rim!
15) Fit one side of the new tyre. You shouldn't need levers.
16) Carefully insert the tube, valve first, then making sure that the
tube is evenly around the rim, not folded or twisted. (Hint, a little
bit of air in the tube helps.
17) Push the valve stem down.
18) Important: starting at the valve, put the second edge of the tyre
into the rim. Make sure that it seats comfortably, and is not trapping
the base of the valve stem.
19) Working first one way then the other, put the rest of the tyre bead
into the rim.
20) Important: be careful to work evenly, and not to let the tyre drag
the tube so that the valve projects from the hole unevenly. It should
be at right angles to the rim.
21) Important: you will end up with a little bit of the bead that is
not back in the rim. This should be diametrically opposite the valve.
22) Work your way round the entire tyre, pushing the walls together
with finger and thumb to seat the tyre properly, and to ensure maximum
slack for when you put that last difficult bit in.
23) You should now be able to push that last difficult bit in. If you
have to use levers, be careful not to trap and tear the tube.
24) Double check that the tyre is evenly seated all the way round the
rim.
25) Inflate the tube, checking that the valve isn't trapped or under
any tension.
26) have a nice cup of tea and a biscuit.


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juggling_unicyclist_joe wrote:
> *i have no tyre levars is there anything else i can use to get it off?
> *


you should really buy some from your bike store. they're very cheap. but
if you choose not to, screwdrivers will work. except you probably need
someone to help you, and it's really hard, and there's a slight risk of
popping the tube.


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My dad always swore by nice, rounded end handled spoons in place of tyre
levers. They work for me, too. Some spoons are a bit namby-pamby
though, and bend far too easily. Plastic spoons are a definite no-no,
wooden spoons are too clumsy and ladles are just over the top.



:)


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Money spent on good tools is never wasted.

Money saved by bodging is usually spent on repairing the bodge.

A set of tyre levers costs about as much as a takeaway meal, and loads
less than a CD. For goodness' sake, don't be a cheapskate. Buy the
levers.


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Mikefule gave a very nice and clear description on how to change a tire.
That should be a keeper for the FAQ.

Here's two other tire changing guides that are on the web:
'Tire changing guide at parktool.com'
(http://www.parktool.com/repair_help/FAQtires.shtml)
'Tire changing guide at sheldonbrown.com'
(http://sheldonbrown.com/flats.html)

The trick to removing and installing a tire it to realize that the
center of the rim is usually a smaller diameter than the outer part of
the rim. Many rims have a bit of a "V" shape inside.

The trick is to push the tire down into the bottom of that "V" on one
half of the rim and work the tire levers on the opposite half of the
rim. Pushing half of the tire down into the bottom of the "V" gives you
a few extra millimeters on the other half of the rim which makes it
easier to get the bead of the tire up and over the lip of the rim. See
the attached drawing.

And do use real tire levers. Never use a tool like a screwdriver cause
you'll surely puncture the tube or damage the tire. A set of basic
plastic tire levers is cheap. Under $3 (USD) for a set of 3. The heavy
duty metal tire levers that are useful on the heavy DH tires like the
Gazz are a little more (about $10 each).


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I would like to add only one thing. If it is at all possible to remove
and install the tyre without the tyre irons, don't use them. The fewer
things you have stuck in there the less likely you are to puncture
something. I can do a Gazz with cheap plastic tyre irons. I can do a
standard Coker entirely by hand, no tools. Every possibility in between
exists. Some people like to use liquid soap on particularly stubborn
tires. I strongly recommend staying away from soap or any other
substance that likes to disolve water (KY Jelly for instance is water
soluble.) Vaseline or some light grease might help in this situation.
Keep water away from the inards of the wheel whenever possible to
prevent corrosion of spoke nipples, preservation of the rim strip and
the such.


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