How important is weight?



I didn't realize that was so evil. Next time I'll close the door before I begin. :-D Btw: it really never was a mountain bike.
 
Originally Posted by lectraplayer

I didn't realize that was so evil. Next time I'll close the door before I begin. :-D

Btw: it really never was a mountain bike.

But it has MTB wheels of 26 diameter? & It's a 5 speed frame?

BTW, there is a company that makes cassettes for older frames. 5 speed, 7 speed etc. So now you wont have to rob museums to refurbish that 1971 Decorated Lug steel bike.
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It's called "IRD" something and the range is called "Classica":

IRD:
http://www.interlocracing.com/cassettes-freewheels/classica-freewheels-567-speed

"We have discovered many of you with older bikes not wanting to upgrade to cassettes, but are finding that a quality freewheel almost impossible to find."


 
Anyway, my original question has a suitable answer, and I know what I want for that highly controvercial short frame. I guess my only real question now is if I can adapt a derailer between speed counts by changing the shifters. This appears to be a knockoff of a Shinano SIS, so a 7-SIS shifter will be on my aero bar parts list. I already have my freewheel picked out.
 
With some few notable exceptions, Shimano derailers usually are very cross-compatible. Old Dura-Ace and new Dyna-Sys are the only exceptions that I know of.
 
Originally Posted by lectraplayer


If my buddy's bike weighs 20 pounds, that would put me at 245 pounds on the wheels vs. 265 pounds now. I'm not expecting all that much right now, but I do know a 20 pound weight sure does get heavy when I carry it across a football field. ...then again, am I carrying the bike or riding it?


Just to give you overall numbers:

On flats at speed 30km/h, difference between 265lb (120kg) and 245lb (110kg) is minimal.

Example:

You have same bikewheels exactly the same route, flat no wind but you are 10kg lighter:

At 110kg you will need 176W to push the bike at 30km/h
At 120kg you will need 179W to go 30km/h

Difference gets bigger when go uphill:

At 2% grade
110kg takes 356W to go 30km/h
120kg takes 375W to go 30km/h

At 4% grade

110kg- 535W
120kg – 571W

Going to drops in your case at 120kg @ 30km/h will push you to 148W

So instead of getting lighter bike ride in drops. Or in the hoods this will get you to 162W @30km/h

Here is quite good online calculator: http://www.cyclingpowerlab.com/PowerSpeedScenarios.aspx

At 265lb you are a tank few LB will not make any difference, get to 160-170lb and then get light bike.
 
sebo2000 said:
Just to give you overall numbers: On flats at speed 30km/h, difference between 265lb (120kg) and 245lb (110kg) is minimal.
Thtt's exactly what I was thinking Sebo.