How long did it take you

[Bellsouth Ijit 2.0 - 'Roid Rage Edition ®]

to saw off a steel OPC crank arm with a hacksaw? A dumbass backed his car
into the non-drive side of a beloved Chicago Schwinn beater and broke the
rear wheel and bent the non-drive side crank arm inward so that in order to
replace it, I will need to cut it since it won't pull out of the BB shell.
I need to determine how many beers I need to get for this little chore.
TIA.

 

[still just me]

On Fri, 21 Dec 2007 13:56:31 -0500, "Bellsouth Ijit 2.0 - 'Roid Rage
Edition ®" <[email protected]> wrote:

>to saw off a steel OPC crank arm with a hacksaw? A dumbass backed his car
>into the non-drive side of a beloved Chicago Schwinn beater and broke the
>rear wheel and bent the non-drive side crank arm inward so that in order to
>replace it, I will need to cut it since it won't pull out of the BB shell.
>I need to determine how many beers I need to get for this little chore.
>TIA.


How about a long pipe to straighten it?

That said, a new blade in a recip saw... about five minutes for solid
steel, two for alloy. Includes setup time.

 

[A Muzi]

Bellsouth Ijit 2.0 - 'Roid Rage Edition ® wrote:
> to saw off a steel OPC crank arm with a hacksaw? A dumbass backed his car
> into the non-drive side of a beloved Chicago Schwinn beater and broke the
> rear wheel and bent the non-drive side crank arm inward so that in order to
> replace it, I will need to cut it since it won't pull out of the BB shell.
> I need to determine how many beers I need to get for this little chore.

Try removing the left pedal and slipping 4-5 feet of water pipe over the
left side of the crank. If you can get it straight, it will be safe,
those are tough.

To hacksaw an OPC isn't overly difficult. If you remove the wheels, you
can get the arm in a vise which would make it under a minute with a 32t
blade. (disc grinder would be my 1st choice on that, 3-4 seconds)
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

 

[[email protected]]

On Dec 21, 3:47 pm, A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:
> Bellsouth Ijit 2.0 - 'Roid Rage Edition ® wrote:
>
> > to saw off a steel OPC crank arm with a hacksaw? A dumbass backed his car
> > into the non-drive side of a beloved Chicago Schwinn beater and broke the
> > rear wheel and bent the non-drive side crank arm inward so that in orderto
> > replace it, I will need to cut it since it won't pull out of the BB shell.
> > I need to determine how many beers I need to get for this little chore.
>
> Try removing the left pedal and slipping 4-5 feet of water pipe over the
> left side of the crank. If you can get it straight, it will be safe,
> those are tough.
>
> To hacksaw an OPC isn't overly difficult. If you remove the wheels, you
> can get the arm in a vise which would make it under a minute with a 32t
> blade. (disc grinder would be my 1st choice on that, 3-4 seconds)

Or a Dremel tool with the right cutting disk. Might take a minute or
two, no vise necessary.

- Frank Krygowski

 

[M-gineering]

[email protected] wrote:
> On Dec 21, 3:47 pm, A Muzi <[email protected]> wrote:
>> Bellsouth Ijit 2.0 - 'Roid Rage Edition ® wrote:
>>
>>> to saw off a steel OPC crank arm with a hacksaw? A dumbass backed his car
>>> into the non-drive side of a beloved Chicago Schwinn beater and broke the
>>> rear wheel and bent the non-drive side crank arm inward so that in order to
>>> replace it, I will need to cut it since it won't pull out of the BB shell.
>>> I need to determine how many beers I need to get for this little chore.
>> Try removing the left pedal and slipping 4-5 feet of water pipe over the
>> left side of the crank. If you can get it straight, it will be safe,
>> those are tough.
>>
>> To hacksaw an OPC isn't overly difficult. If you remove the wheels, you
>> can get the arm in a vise which would make it under a minute with a 32t
>> blade. (disc grinder would be my 1st choice on that, 3-4 seconds)
>
> Or a Dremel tool with the right cutting disk. Might take a minute or
> two, no vise necessary.
>
> - Frank Krygowski

If you can get the crank in a vise just heave on the bike. Sorted
--
/Marten

info(apestaartje)m-gineering(punt)nl

 

[Mike Jacoubowsky]

>>to saw off a steel OPC crank arm with a hacksaw? A dumbass backed his car
>>into the non-drive side of a beloved Chicago Schwinn beater and broke the
>>rear wheel and bent the non-drive side crank arm inward so that in order
>>to
>>replace it, I will need to cut it since it won't pull out of the BB shell.
>>I need to determine how many beers I need to get for this little chore.
>>TIA.
>
>
> How about a long pipe to straighten it?

Too bad the seatpost size of an old Schwinn is 13/16". Otherwise you could
remove the seat & seatpost, take the pedal off, slide the seatpost over the
crank and bend it. I know I've done that before, but I'm trying to think of
what bike with an Ashtabula crank would have had a seatpost large enough for
the job.

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA


"still just me" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 21 Dec 2007 13:56:31 -0500, "Bellsouth Ijit 2.0 - 'Roid Rage
> Edition ®" <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>>to saw off a steel OPC crank arm with a hacksaw? A dumbass backed his car
>>into the non-drive side of a beloved Chicago Schwinn beater and broke the
>>rear wheel and bent the non-drive side crank arm inward so that in order
>>to
>>replace it, I will need to cut it since it won't pull out of the BB shell.
>>I need to determine how many beers I need to get for this little chore.
>>TIA.
>
>
> How about a long pipe to straighten it?
>
> That said, a new blade in a recip saw... about five minutes for solid
> steel, two for alloy. Includes setup time.
>

 

[A Muzi]

> "still just me" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...

>> "Bellsouth Ijit 2.0 - 'Roid Rage Edition ®" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> to saw off a steel OPC crank arm with a hacksaw? A dumbass backed his car
>>> into the non-drive side of a beloved Chicago Schwinn beater and broke the
>>> rear wheel and bent the non-drive side crank arm inward so that in order
>>> to
>>> replace it, I will need to cut it since it won't pull out of the BB shell.
>>> I need to determine how many beers I need to get for this little chore.

> "still just me" <[email protected]> wrote
>> How about a long pipe to straighten it?
>> That said, a new blade in a recip saw... about five minutes for solid
>> steel, two for alloy. Includes setup time.

Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
> Too bad the seatpost size of an old Schwinn is 13/16". Otherwise you could
> remove the seat & seatpost, take the pedal off, slide the seatpost over the
> crank and bend it. I know I've done that before, but I'm trying to think of
> what bike with an Ashtabula crank would have had a seatpost large enough for
> the job.


Super Sport
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971

 

[Mike Jacoubowsky]

> Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
>> Too bad the seatpost size of an old Schwinn is 13/16". Otherwise you
>> could remove the seat & seatpost, take the pedal off, slide the seatpost
>> over the crank and bend it. I know I've done that before, but I'm trying
>> to think of what bike with an Ashtabula crank would have had a seatpost
>> large enough for the job.
>
>
> Super Sport
> --
> Andrew Muzi

Yes, that makes sense. Hand-brazed lugless chrome-moly frame, sold for
$139.99 when I bought my first Schwinn Varsity for $72.50 or something like
that.

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA


"A Muzi" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> "still just me" <[email protected]> wrote in message
>> news:[email protected]...
>
>>> "Bellsouth Ijit 2.0 - 'Roid Rage Edition ®" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> to saw off a steel OPC crank arm with a hacksaw? A dumbass backed his
>>>> car
>>>> into the non-drive side of a beloved Chicago Schwinn beater and broke
>>>> the
>>>> rear wheel and bent the non-drive side crank arm inward so that in
>>>> order to
>>>> replace it, I will need to cut it since it won't pull out of the BB
>>>> shell.
>>>> I need to determine how many beers I need to get for this little chore.
>
>> "still just me" <[email protected]> wrote
>>> How about a long pipe to straighten it?
>>> That said, a new blade in a recip saw... about five minutes for solid
>>> steel, two for alloy. Includes setup time.
>
> Mike Jacoubowsky wrote:
>> Too bad the seatpost size of an old Schwinn is 13/16". Otherwise you
>> could remove the seat & seatpost, take the pedal off, slide the seatpost
>> over the crank and bend it. I know I've done that before, but I'm trying
>> to think of what bike with an Ashtabula crank would have had a seatpost
>> large enough for the job.
>
>
> Super Sport
> --
> Andrew Muzi
> www.yellowjersey.org
> Open every day since 1 April, 1971

 

[DougC]

[email protected] wrote:

>
> Or a Dremel tool with the right cutting disk. Might take a minute or
> two, no vise necessary.
>
> - Frank Krygowski

A dremel? Sheet, that'll take all damn /day/. And several packs of
cutting disks, at $5/pack.

Get a 4-1/2" angle grinder, put a $2 thin cutting disk on there. Thirty
seconds, zero effort. The $2 disk will be just barely worn.
~