How long should components last



D

Dave B

Guest
Hi folks,

I have been commuting on my bike since late June this year (a miserly
4.5 miles each way).

I had the misfortune of a broken spoke recently that forced me to pop
into the LBS. Whilst chatting with one of the bike gurus (who'd just
managed to save my wheel from buckle hell) we got talking about my bike
usage and components.

I've done about 700 miles in total (yes I've had some days off and
driven a few times :)) and he suggested that depending on how much
washing and lubrication I was doing I should expect between 900 and 1200
miles out of most of the drivechain (i.e. derailleurs, chain, sprockets
etc). Does this sound about right?

If so (and my maintenence schedule suggests it will be closer to 900
than 1200!) I will have to budget for some purchases in the new year!

Dave
 
M

MSeries

Guest
Dave B wrote:
> Hi folks,


>
> I've done about 700 miles in total (yes I've had some days off and
> driven a few times :)) and he suggested that depending on how much
> washing and lubrication I was doing I should expect between 900 and 1200
> miles out of most of the drivechain (i.e. derailleurs, chain, sprockets
> etc). Does this sound about right?
>


Should not need a new derailleur, chain probably, sprockets possibly.
 
P

Peter Clinch

Guest
Dave B wrote:

> I've done about 700 miles in total (yes I've had some days off and
> driven a few times :)) and he suggested that depending on how much
> washing and lubrication I was doing I should expect between 900 and 1200
> miles out of most of the drivechain (i.e. derailleurs, chain, sprockets
> etc). Does this sound about right?


Would depend on how good it is and what sort of degree of perfection you
expect from changing. Personally, speaking as a not particularly
sporting rider who's typically had lowish to middle range bits, I'd feel
rather on the shortchanged side if I had to change things as
frequently as 1200 miles.

Difficult to gauge at the mo as I use several bikes so share the load
and don't commute, but back when I had a single bike and wasn't very
rich to throw much money at it, I'd reckon closer to 5k miles before
something really needed replacing in the sprockets and rings department,
rather less for that on chains if I wasn't very diligent when the
council were putting salt down.

Pete.
--
Peter Clinch Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637 Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177 Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net [email protected] http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/
 
I

iakobski

Guest
>> Does this sound about right?

No, it sounds like rubbish - either really rubbish components or
rubbish words.

I did 5000 km before changing to fixed, and all the components,
including the chain, have no signs of wear - or rather not enough to
need changing.

If you change the chain as soon as it shows any signs of wear you will
be able to use the same sprockets over many chains and many thousnads
of miles. The same with the derailleurs, depending how much shifting
you do.

You need to measure the chain, if you leave it too late you will have
to change the cassette with the chain, but not the derrailleurs.
 
M

Mark Tranchant

Guest
Dave B wrote:

> I've done about 700 miles in total (yes I've had some days off and
> driven a few times :)) and he suggested that depending on how much
> washing and lubrication I was doing I should expect between 900 and 1200
> miles out of most of the drivechain (i.e. derailleurs, chain, sprockets
> etc). Does this sound about right?


Not really, although the chain will be tired after that time. I commute
12.5 miles per day in all weathers. My drivetrain is a 2001 Campag
Veloce 9-speed with Sachs chain. I don't use any special lubes: a rag
and small screwdriver to get the worst of the **** off the jockey wheels
and cassette, and 3-in-1 to keep it quiet and smooth. The route is all
road; the bike is a Roberts Audax, and I weigh 11st.

I had a chain last over 4,000 miles: I then replaced it out of concern
that it would start wearing the chainrings as it had visibly stretched.
The new chain was unusable on the old cassette, which had followed the
stretching of the old chain.

Now, I replace the chain every 1,500 miles and the cassette every third
chain (4,500 miles).

I replaced the jockey wheels on the rear mech after 10,000 miles, but I
don't believe that was necessary. I don't have any plans to change
either front or rear mech until they fail - they are still shifting
perfectly.

--
Mark.
http://tranchant.plus.com/
 
P

Pete Biggs

Guest
Dave B wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> I have been commuting on my bike since late June this year (a miserly
> 4.5 miles each way).
>
> I had the misfortune of a broken spoke recently that forced me to pop
> into the LBS. Whilst chatting with one of the bike gurus (who'd just
> managed to save my wheel from buckle hell) we got talking about my
> bike usage and components.
>
> I've done about 700 miles in total (yes I've had some days off and
> driven a few times :)) and he suggested that depending on how much
> washing and lubrication I was doing I should expect between 900 and
> 1200 miles out of most of the drivechain (i.e. derailleurs, chain,
> sprockets etc). Does this sound about right?


No. It might be a good idea to replace the chain at that point (or sooner
or later, as appropriate) but not the rest. Basically, you have two
choices: Keep replacing chain before significant wear, or carry on with
everything until it doesn't work. The latter could take several/many
thousands of miles but the expensive chainrings (at the front) would
eventually need changing as well. See www.sheldonbrown.com

Another option is "chain rotation" (periodically alternating between two
or more chains) but this can only save money if you use the chains and
sprockets until they're worn right out (and it depends on cost of
sprockets too); otherwise it's effectively no different from replacing
chains one at a time.

Derailleurs do not need regular replacement, not even the jockey wheels.

~PB
 
P

PhilD

Guest
Dave B wrote:
> I've done about 700 miles in total (yes I've had some days off and
> driven a few times :)) and he suggested that depending on how much
> washing and lubrication I was doing I should expect between 900 and 1200
> miles out of most of the drivechain (i.e. derailleurs, chain, sprockets
> etc). Does this sound about right?



My dad's bike is about 40 years old, and he still has the original
chain, chain wheel and sprockets. OK, so the teeth are all hook-shaped
now, but the bike's still perfectly ride-able!

PhilD

--
<><
 
S

Simon Brooke

Guest
in message <[email protected]>, Dave B
('[email protected]') wrote:

> I have been commuting on my bike since late June this year (a miserly
> 4.5 miles each way).
>
> I had the misfortune of a broken spoke recently that forced me to pop
> into the LBS. Whilst chatting with one of the bike gurus (who'd just
> managed to save my wheel from buckle hell) we got talking about my bike
> usage and components.
>
> I've done about 700 miles in total (yes I've had some days off and
> driven a few times :)) and he suggested that depending on how much
> washing and lubrication I was doing I should expect between 900 and
> 1200 miles out of most of the drivechain (i.e. derailleurs, chain,
> sprockets etc). Does this sound about right?


Frankly, no, but it does depend a great deal on how much effort you put
into cleaning and lubricating. I reckon to get more than twice that on a
mountain bike used in really nasty off-road conditions. A road chain
should last at least 3,000 miles and derailleurs and sprockets much
more. The rear derailleur on my winter bike must have done 15,000 miles
now, as have the cassette and the chainset. None of them need
replacement. This does depend on quality, of course. If you do have to
replace components, always upgrade.

If you keep your chain clean and replace it before it gets too worn the
rest will last a long time.

--
[email protected] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/
.::;===r==\
/ /___||___\____
//==\- ||- | /__\( MS Windows IS an operating environment.
//____\__||___|_// \|: C++ IS an object oriented programming language.
\__/ ~~~~~~~~~ \__/ Citroen 2cv6 IS a four door family saloon.
 
D

Dave B

Guest
Thanks for the replys folks!

Sould like my money is safe for a wee bit longer. Although I have came
to expect the unexpected! I've already had to replace the headset (now
got a sealed cartridge which should help), a spoke and my tyres (now
marathon pluses!). I wonder what will be next..... :-(.

I'm surprised that I got such incorrect information. Maybe he just said
the chain would need replaced and I misheard, but I was sure he was
talking about other components.

The components are cheapish, came with my ridgeback cyclone, but not
bargain basement.

Thanks again

Dave
 
I got about 7000km from the "drive train" on my Dawes galaxy - me 14
stones and including miles of track/trail/hills and heavy loaded cycle
camping. Still wondering if it was actually necessary to replace
anything as it was all working perfectly but the chain was measurably
stretched. I replaced chain, cassette and middle ring - the other bits
should last a good deal longer.
The secrets of long life are: to oil regularly - too much rather than
too little, never clean the chain except wiping or brushing off gunge,
don't replace anything until it is starting to play up e.g. chain
slipping over sprocket teeth.
Sprockets and chain when well run-in together will wear minimally but
replacement bits will increase wear as they have to run in again - if
they work at all; a new chain may not engage at all well with old
sprockets and vice versa. Excessive cleaning or changing
chains/sprockets at regular intervals just speeds up wear for no
obvious advantage.

cheers

Jacob
 
P

Phil Cook

Guest
[email protected] wrote:

>The secrets of long life are: to oil regularly - too much rather than
>too little, never clean the chain except wiping or brushing off gunge,
>don't replace anything until it is starting to play up e.g. chain
>slipping over sprocket teeth.


Or perhaps its the oposite that is true.
--
Phil Cook looking north over the park to the "Westminster Gasworks"
 
S

Simon Brooke

Guest
in message <[email protected]>, Dave B
('[email protected]') wrote:

> Thanks for the replys folks!
>
> Sould like my money is safe for a wee bit longer. Although I have came
> to expect the unexpected! I've already had to replace the headset (now
> got a sealed cartridge which should help), a spoke and my tyres (now
> marathon pluses!). I wonder what will be next..... :-(.
>
> I'm surprised that I got such incorrect information. Maybe he just said
> the chain would need replaced and I misheard, but I was sure he was
> talking about other components.


It really depends how much care you've taken of them. You easily _can_
trash a whole transmission in 700 miles, or even less. If your LBS says
yours is on the way out, they may be right.

It really comes down to chain maintenance, and this is really easy and
takes little time.

<URL:http://sheldonbrown.com/chains.html>

---- quote ------------------------------------------------------------

If you wish to make a habit of cleaning your chain off-the-bike, the best
approach is to buy an aftermarket master link, such as the Craig Super
Link. These permit removal and re-installation of the chain without
tools. I used to use a parts cleaning tank and a toothbrush to clean
chains, but Zaven Ghazarian, an excellent mechanic I used to work with
came up with a better system: drop the chain into a plastic Coke bottle
with a couple of ounces of un-diluted citrus degreaser, cap it, and
shake thoroughly. Fish the chain out with a spoke, rinse in water, and
you are all set! (I am told that Pepsi bottles also work, and are easier
to remove the chain from, because they have a wider mouth...but I'm a
Coke guy, not a Pepsi guy.)

---- endquote ---------------------------------------------------------

With all due deference to Sheldon Brown the beneficent, may Allah shower
blessings upon him, in my experience parafin or white spirits work
better than citrus degreaser. But the basic advice - get the chain off
the bike, into a bottle with something which dissolves grease, shake
thoroughly is absolutely right. Having done that, rinse, allow to
dry /thoroughly/ (two or three hours), lubricate /sparingly/, leave for
the lubricant to penetrate (another two to three hours), wipe off any
excess, put chain back on bike.

Regularly. Ten minutes once a week will keep your bike running well for
thousands of miles.

In my experience, on-the-bike cleaners are fiddly, messy, time consuming,
and don't work nearly so well.

--
[email protected] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

;; Quidquid latine dictum sit, altum sonatur.
 
A

Arthur Clune

Guest
Dave B wrote:
>
> If so (and my maintenence schedule suggests it will be closer to 900
> than 1200!) I will have to budget for some purchases in the new year!


Do you have full length mudguards (not just crud-catcher type things)
on the bike? It makes a vast difference to how long things last

--
Arthur Clune
 
T

Tosspot

Guest
Dave B wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> I have been commuting on my bike since late June this year (a miserly
> 4.5 miles each way).
>
> I had the misfortune of a broken spoke recently that forced me to pop
> into the LBS. Whilst chatting with one of the bike gurus (who'd just
> managed to save my wheel from buckle hell) we got talking about my bike
> usage and components.
>
> I've done about 700 miles in total (yes I've had some days off and
> driven a few times :)) and he suggested that depending on how much
> washing and lubrication I was doing I should expect between 900 and 1200
> miles out of most of the drivechain (i.e. derailleurs, chain, sprockets
> etc). Does this sound about right?
>
> If so (and my maintenence schedule suggests it will be closer to 900
> than 1200!) I will have to budget for some purchases in the new year!


In my fairly limited experience, 2000 kms/year, the longevity is
directly related to cost. Cheap cream cheese falls apart, better
quality last longer, top quality lasts for ages.

For what I buy, a chain/cassette every year of mid price stuff. I have
got it to last longer, but the maintenance effort rises and these days I
think of it as an annual service for 50 squids.
 
Arthur Clune wrote:
> Dave B wrote:
> >
> > If so (and my maintenence schedule suggests it will be closer to 900
> > than 1200!) I will have to budget for some purchases in the new year!

>
> Do you have full length mudguards (not just crud-catcher type things)
> on the bike? It makes a vast difference to how long things last
>
> --
> Arthur Clune


And a mud flap at the bottom of the front mudguard - keeps your feet
dry and bottom bracket/chainset clean.

Jacob
 
A

Adrian Boliston

Guest
"Dave B" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]

> Hi folks,
>
> I have been commuting on my bike since late June this year (a miserly 4.5
> miles each way).
>
> I had the misfortune of a broken spoke recently that forced me to pop into
> the LBS. Whilst chatting with one of the bike gurus (who'd just managed to
> save my wheel from buckle hell) we got talking about my bike usage and
> components.
>
> I've done about 700 miles in total (yes I've had some days off and driven
> a few times :)) and he suggested that depending on how much washing and
> lubrication I was doing I should expect between 900 and 1200 miles out of
> most of the drivechain (i.e. derailleurs, chain, sprockets etc). Does this
> sound about right?


I've just had a full service done (after 2 years at about 60 miles/week
commuting) on my bike by LBS and they said I needed a new chain, casette and
a new outer chainring, but the derailler and bottom bracket were fine. They
said the rims were badly worn so I got a new set of wheels as well.
 
J

Jon Senior

Guest
Simon Brooke wrote:
> With all due deference to Sheldon Brown the beneficent, may Allah shower
> blessings upon him, in my experience parafin or white spirits work
> better than citrus degreaser. But the basic advice - get the chain off
> the bike, into a bottle with something which dissolves grease, shake
> thoroughly is absolutely right. Having done that, rinse, allow to
> dry /thoroughly/ (two or three hours), lubricate /sparingly/, leave for
> the lubricant to penetrate (another two to three hours), wipe off any
> excess, put chain back on bike.


My chain cleaning / maintenance schedule included the above, but for the
oiling:

1) Buy a large container of chainsaw oil.
2) Once the chain is dry, completely immerse in the oil.
3) Hang the chain up with a container underneath to catch the drips.
4) Using a heat gun (If you have a decent workshop) or hairdryer (If you
don't), warm the chain up. This will make the oil less viscous and allow
it to penetrate the chain better. It'll also aid run off of the excess.
5) Marvel at how much black gunk was still in the chain! ;-)
6) Allow to cool and wipe the excess off the outside with a towel.
7) Put chain on bike.

Since this can be long winded, it can be combined with the other common
advice which is to buy two chains. Every two weeks (Or one week /
whatever suits your riding) swap the manky chain for the shiny, oily one
and that way your bike is always ready and you can regrease the old
chain at your leisure.

Jon
 
M

mb

Guest
Arthur Clune wrote:

> Dave B wrote:
> >
> > If so (and my maintenence schedule suggests it will be closer to
> > 900 than 1200!) I will have to budget for some purchases in the new
> > year!

>
> Do you have full length mudguards (not just crud-catcher type things)
> on the bike? It makes a vast difference to how long things last



Yes, it does.
I have full mudguards on my winter bike and notice that all the dirt
which normally gets flung away, now falls onto the chainset,
derailleurs, wheels etc etc etc.

Oh, hang on. You meant the opposite? Well, not on my bike...

--
Mike
 
P

POHB

Guest
Is this a case of "they don't make them like they used to?"
My old Claude Butler went for more than 10 years on the same drivetrain
with only the odd drop of 3-in-one. I wore out plenty of tyres and 2
lots of wheel bearings but I was surprised when the chain started
slipping and the shop told me the chain, cassette and rings needed
changing. How naive! I guess I hadn't actually done many miles in the
first 10 years and it's only in the last 3 I've started really clocking
them up.

Dave B wrote:
>
> >
> > I've done about 700 miles in total (yes I've had some days off and
> > driven a few times :)) and he suggested that depending on how much
> > washing and lubrication I was doing I should expect between 900 and 1200
> > miles out of most of the drivechain (i.e. derailleurs, chain, sprockets
> > etc). Does this sound about right?
> >
> > If so (and my maintenence schedule suggests it will be closer to 900
> > than 1200!) I will have to budget for some purchases in the new year!
> >
 
Jon Senior wrote:
> Simon Brooke wrote:
> > With all due deference to Sheldon Brown the beneficent, may Allah shower
> > blessings upon him, in my experience parafin or white spirits work
> > better than citrus degreaser. But the basic advice - get the chain off
> > the bike, into a bottle with something which dissolves grease, shake
> > thoroughly is absolutely right. Having done that, rinse, allow to
> > dry /thoroughly/ (two or three hours), lubricate /sparingly/, leave for
> > the lubricant to penetrate (another two to three hours), wipe off any
> > excess, put chain back on bike.

>
> My chain cleaning / maintenance schedule included the above, but for the
> oiling:
>
> 1) Buy a large container of chainsaw oil.
> 2) Once the chain is dry, completely immerse in the oil.
> 3) Hang the chain up with a container underneath to catch the drips.
> 4) Using a heat gun (If you have a decent workshop) or hairdryer (If you
> don't), warm the chain up. This will make the oil less viscous and allow
> it to penetrate the chain better. It'll also aid run off of the excess.
> 5) Marvel at how much black gunk was still in the chain! ;-)
> 6) Allow to cool and wipe the excess off the outside with a towel.
> 7) Put chain on bike.
>
> Since this can be long winded, it can be combined with the other common
> advice which is to buy two chains. Every two weeks (Or one week /
> whatever suits your riding) swap the manky chain for the shiny, oily one
> and that way your bike is always ready and you can regrease the old
> chain at your leisure.
>
> Jon


Simpler is to oil your chain regularly, occasionally clean off surface
black gunge with a cloth or a brush, and otherwise do nothing at all
until it needs replacing. This way it (and the sprockets) lasts longer
and saves a lot of messy work - and you only need one chain.
The reasons it lasts longer are (a) in time it will get well run in and
rate of wear will be low compared to new/new or new/old mixes of
chain/sprockets which have to run in again, and (b) the old black fine
grinding paste which we all know and love is actually less harmful than
the new coarse grinding paste which a clean chain will rapidly pick up
in the form of sharp grit, sand etc.
Anyway that's my theory and I'm sticking to it - and it seems to work!

cheers

Jacob
 

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