How much can a tall men afford to compensate when it comes to frames?

[TheWhiteGandhi]

So, im interested in investing in a Iro bike and there are two sizes im looking at. Im 6ft 5in, and normally take a 62cm frame, however, if i can manage a 60cm frame it saves me money and thats key since i...welll....dont have much. So, can I manage with a 60cm frame?

 

[alfeng]

So, im interested in investing in a Iro bike and there are two sizes im looking at. Im 6ft 5in, and normally take a 62cm frame, however, if i can manage a 60cm frame it saves me money and thats key since i...welll....dont have much. So, can I manage with a 60cm frame?

What's your budget?

What is the price differential between the 60cm & 62cm bikes?

What is the length of the top tube on each frame?

 

[TheWhiteGandhi]

my budget is really anywhere under 1000$ however, the difference in price between the 60 and 62 is like 200$ so if i can make due on the 60 and save 200$ it would be ideal (economy=no money). the top tube length of the 60 is 57 cm, and the 62 is 59cm

What's your budget?

What is the price differential between the 60cm & 62cm bikes?

What is the length of the top tube on each frame?

 

[jhuskey]

The problem with fitting a bike over the internet is that everyone has different anatomy. 10 people your height may have different arm lenghts, inseam measurments etc. It is quite possible that the samller frame will work with the correct stem , seat height etc. but without actually physically fitting you to the bike it is impossible to determine.
Can you get by a bike shop and determine the best sizing data for you? If so, do this and write down the specifics and buy accordingly.

 

[alfeng]

my budget is really anywhere under 1000$ however, the difference in price between the 60 and 62 is like 200$ so if i can make due on the 60 and save 200$ it would be ideal (economy=no money). the top tube length of the 60 is 57 cm, and the 62 is 59cm

I think that a frame with a 57cm top tube is too short for someone taller than 6'2" ...

I would think that someone who is 6'5" tall might really be happier riding a ROAD frame whose top tube is between 62cm & 64cm ... and then, use a 120mm-to-130mm stem to tweak the reach ...

THAT sounds like a "custom" frame, but it doesn't have to be ...

First, FLAT BAR Bar bikes often have longer top tubes to compensate for the lack of reach on a MTB handlebar ... YOU can use that to your advantage and buy either a Flat Bar bike OR a 29er.

2010 JAMIS BICYCLES - SPECIFICATIONS

The largest JAMIS CODA has 59.5cm top tube, but other Flat Bar bikes may have longer top tubes ...

The retail for the JAMIS CODA is only $550 for the base model ...

Add some Drop handlebars + handlebar tape + 10 speed CAMPAGNOLO shifters (~$200, LESS if you don't need the latest 'style') mated using the hubbub.com alternate rear derailleur anchoring OR install a 10-speed Shimano rear derailleur + a travel agent for the front V-brake and you'll be good-to-go.

Add different cranks +/- cantilever brakes, and you will still be below $1000.

MTB frames have proportionally longer top tubes for a given frame size as gauged by the S-M-L-XL parameters ...

YOU (and, other tall riders) can take advantage of the fact that 29ers are B-I-G MTBs which use 700c wheels instead of 26" wheels ...

So, if I were your height, then I would give VERY SERIOUS CONSIDERATION to an XL-sized 29er frame + rigid fork ... if you can get them separately (sans components), then you may be able to find a frame-and-fork for $300-to-$400.

If you need an off-the-peg/ready-to-ride bike, then I would recommend you look at something like either the Single Speed RALEIGH XXIX (about $700 retail, ready-to-ride ... less if you find one on eBay) + the derailleur hanger (must be $20), add a pair of 44cm wide ROAD handlebars (allow $50+), another $100 for a set of Shimano derailleurs, another $100 for some 10-speed CAMPAGNOLO shifters, $80 for an 8-or-9-speed chain & cassette (9-speed cassette & chain if you get 10-speed) ...

OR, buy the XXIX+G (the same bike with gearing + a front suspension fork) ...

There are OTHER 29ers (e.g. REDLINE is one brand that isn't over-priced ...) ... I'm not keeping up with 29ers at the moment, so you'll have to research them for prices, geometry, and features.

I'm pretty sure that an X-Large 29er frame has a 64cm virtual top tube, BTW ... for you, that would be a good thing.

 

[tonyzackery]

The 2cm difference in size is not going to "make or break" you as a cyclist. If you do long rides (3hrs+) the smaller frame may/may not cause some discomfort issues.

The small difference can be compensated for in any number of ways: stem length, stem degree, saddle/seatpost setback, bar drop, and bar reach. However, if you're not inclined to purchase additional equipment - and with your lack of funds, it sounds like you're not - you can simply buy the smaller frame and rotate your bars forward to move the hoods a little further away to allow you to stretch a bit if you're feeling cramped.

 

[garage sale GT]

I really think you ought to go for the fit even if you have to go used.

You see a 1980's Raleigh or Fuji on Craigslist every now and then that may be too tall even for you. The real big ones are actually less than the popular sizes.

Try a vintage bike. The extra drag from 36 spokes and box section rims is compensated by the bigger engine.

 

[garage sale GT]

Raleigh Super Grand Prix Lugged Frame X-LARGE
I didn't spend any time looking on your behalf. I just scanned craigslist once or twice today and thought I'd put this on your thread because it reminded me of your problem.

Nice old road bikes go for a pretty steep price where I'm from. This one is cheaper than Raleigh Grand Prix's usually are around here.

You could outfit it with modern components if you didn't like the old school stuff. Modern pedals will fit. A modern aero wheelset does offer a slight but definite advantage. The only other really big difference is if you have drop bars, you can shift without releasing the handlebar.

Whether it's 27 or 700, good tires are still available.

Old bikes are great. I love 'em.

 

[agotangelo]

This fitting page can be useful to you:

Fit Calculator - Competitive Cyclist

It has a size calculator (has to be fed it with a lot of measures) and several readings about fitting.
It is for road bikes with drop bars.

If you choose the smaller frame you'll have more vertical distance between the saddle and the handlebar height (more aerodynamic but less comfortable position), and if you have to put a longer stem you'll advance your center of mass. The sight of my hands slightly ahead of the front axle was a bit worrisome for me when I was going downhill with my previous road bike.

 

[rschleicher]

Raleigh Super Grand Prix Lugged Frame X-LARGE
I didn't spend any time looking on your behalf. I just scanned craigslist once or twice today and thought I'd put this on your thread because it reminded me of your problem.

Nice old road bikes go for a pretty steep price where I'm from. This one is cheaper than Raleigh Grand Prix's usually are around here.

You could outfit it with modern components if you didn't like the old school stuff. Modern pedals will fit. A modern aero wheelset does offer a slight but definite advantage. The only other really big difference is if you have drop bars, you can shift without releasing the handlebar.

Whether it's 27 or 700, good tires are still available.

Old bikes are great. I love 'em.

That X-Large Raleigh frame is probably what used to be sold as a 27" frame (not to be confused with the 27" wheels on bikes of that era). (Raleigh quoted their standard frame sizes in 2" increments - seat tube dimensions of 21", 23", 25", 27", etc.)

My own 1980 Raleigh has the 25" frame. These sometimes get advertised as having 63 cm frames. But in reality the actual seat tube dimension (to the top of the seat tube) is more like 25.5", or almost 65 cm. This has proven very adequate for me (I'm 6'4" "and a half"), although even with my old-school quill stem at maximum height, there is still a fair amount of drop from the seat to the bars.

The 27" frames usually had to be special-ordered, back in the day. I haven't measured one, but would guess that its seat tube dimension would be 68-69 cm. Pretty darn tall...

It might still be a good choice for you, especially if you want the bar height to be pretty high, and not much lower than the seat height. But it may still be taller than you need. If you are reasonably flexible you can probably use a bit longer seat post on the 25" frame.

Just a thought...

 

[garage sale GT]

It seems I see an extra tall one every week or other week or so. They must be a little harder to move.

 

[Chicagofan76]

I recently bought a Schwinn Mesa GS 26" bike at an auction. I am also 6'5 what type of stem do I need for it? Cheaply. i measured my current post at 15/16 of an inch x 8 inches long. i have looked at a few stems on amazon but they seem to not be the right diameter, and I am failing at my inches to cm or mm conversion.
http://www.amazon.com/Problem-Solvers-1-8mm-Shim-Seatpost/dp/B001CJVM46/ref=pd_sim_sg_1

http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-Steel-Pillar-Seat-Post/dp/B000AOA0B0

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[garage sale GT]

Do an online fit calculator or two, Chicagofan. That will tell you what size stem to get. I like the angled hybrid style stems for too-short road bikes because they give you the height and don't leave a sharp angle sticking out so high over the top tube.

I occasionally see a decent, super-tall bike in chicago craigslist, if you like '80s bikes. It might take a few weeks of scanning but they seem to go for a bit less than the more common sizes. I need a 33" standover height on a road bike and the ones I'm talking about are several inches too tall for me.