How much weight is worth saving?

[Ken M]

I have been trying to come up with some ways of saving a bit of weight
on my hybrid. I have thought of several ways which ways should I try?

(1) Seat post - currently a suspension model (stock) weights 530 grams.
New / better rigid weights about 250 grams. Easy to change.

(2) Saddle - Currently stock Avenir sport type. Weight 668 grams. New /
better between 200 - 300 grams. Easy to change.

(3) Fork - Currently Suntour suspension model (stock). Weight ?? -
heavy. New / better steel / rigid weight - 1335 grams uncut. Harder to
change must change headset and stem.

What is your opinion?
Ken

--
Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride. ~John F. Kennedy

 

[Bill Sornson]

Ken M wrote:
> I have been trying to come up with some ways of saving a bit of weight
> on my hybrid. I have thought of several ways which ways should I try?
>
> (1) Seat post - currently a suspension model (stock) weights 530
> grams. New / better rigid weights about 250 grams. Easy to change.
>
> (2) Saddle - Currently stock Avenir sport type. Weight 668 grams. New
> / better between 200 - 300 grams. Easy to change.
>
> (3) Fork - Currently Suntour suspension model (stock). Weight ?? -
> heavy. New / better steel / rigid weight - 1335 grams uncut. Harder to
> change must change headset and stem.
>
> What is your opinion?

Keep the hybrid as a hybrid and buy a nice light road bike as a nice light
road bike.

Bill "two cents please" S.

 

[Chris Zacho The Wheelman]

Date: Thu, Dec 8, 2005, 11:05am From: [email protected] (Ken M)

>I have been trying to come up with some
>ways of saving a bit of weight on my
>hybrid. I have thought of several ways
>which ways should I try?

>(1) Seat post - currently a suspension
>model (stock) weights 530 grams. New /
>better rigid weights about 250 grams.
>Easy to change.

>(2) Saddle - Currently stock Avenir sport
>type. Weight 668 grams. New / better
>between 200 - 300 grams. Easy to
>change.

I would change out the suspension seatpost for the lighter riged and go
for a sprung Brooks saddle. You will still shave off around 200 grams
yet keep some semblence of suspension.

>(3) Fork - Currently Suntour suspension
>model (stock). Weight ?? - heavy. New /
>better steel / rigid weight - 1335 grams
>uncut. Harder to change must change
>headset and stem.

>What is your opinion?
>Ken

Do you do any off-roading with your rig? If all you come up against is
periodic rough pavement, I would dump the MTB forks fand grab a riged
MTB or a touring fork. You may even be able to find one of these that
will work with your present headset.
--
Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride. ~John F. Kennedy

- -

Chris Zacho ~ "Your Friendly Neighborhood Wheelman"

"May you have the winds at your back,
And a really low gear for the hills!"

Chris'Z Corner
http://www.geocities.com/czcorner

 

[Buck]

Ken M wrote:
> I have been trying to come up with some ways of saving a bit of weight
> on my hybrid. I have thought of several ways which ways should I try?
>
> (1) Seat post - currently a suspension model (stock) weights 530 grams.
> New / better rigid weights about 250 grams. Easy to change.
>
> (2) Saddle - Currently stock Avenir sport type. Weight 668 grams. New /
> better between 200 - 300 grams. Easy to change.
>
> (3) Fork - Currently Suntour suspension model (stock). Weight ?? -
> heavy. New / better steel / rigid weight - 1335 grams uncut. Harder to
> change must change headset and stem.
>
> What is your opinion?
> Ken

Counting grams on a hybrid seems silly. If you were talking about a
racing bike and your body fat was so low that you couldn't stand to
lose any more, then counting grams would make sense. Even if your
current fork weighed 3000 grams, you are looking at a total savings of
about 2,313 grams which is about 5 pounds. You can easily lose that
much weight in water on a long, hot ride.

Spend your money on making your bike more comfortable, not lighter. You
are more likely to lose more weight over a shorter period of time from
the overall package (you and the bicycle) if the bicycle is slightly
heavier and you have to work a bit harder. Oh yeah, don't forget that
you will save a bit of money in the process as well.

Wait until you are at a performance level that demands something
besides a hybrid before you focus on issues of bicycle weight. You will
spend a lot of money, gain little in weight savings, gain even less in
overall performance, and even may lose some durability.

-Buck

 

[maxo]

Chris Zacho "The Wheelman" wrote:

> I would change out the suspension seatpost for the lighter riged and go
> for a sprung Brooks saddle. You will still shave off around 200 grams
> yet keep some semblence of suspension.

As an owner of a Brooks flyer, I'll disagree. The springs are mainly
ornamental, and the saddle's not really more comfy than a leather
covered plastic saddle of good design. Now, it does look awesome, and
takes the edge off a few nastier bumps, but not enough to warrant the
weight. Makes the bike feel nasty and top heavy when climbing as well.
Good saddles for "tootlin'" though.

I say, go for a rigid post and fork, but don't drop the bank on it.
Nashbar's got their steel 700c fork on sale for $50 at the moment, so
I'd grab one of those, a discount seatpost, and some (on sale) 32mm
smooth tread tires to speed up that ride. Around $100 worth of parts
isn't something to get upset about.

I'd get those things for reasons other than weight: heavy saddles/posts
feel nasty when climbing out of the saddle compared to weight on the
frame or some place more central. Same goes for suspension forks on the
road: they make the bike "feel" slower and less responsive, even though
the weight isn't the hugest issue.

Get whatever saddle's the comfiest for you, be it Brooks or Flite,
that's the last place to even think about weight savings.

Dropping five pounds for $100 is a steal, dropping 500g for $1000
ain't.

 

[Ken M]

Bill Sornson wrote:
> Ken M wrote:
>
>>I have been trying to come up with some ways of saving a bit of weight
>>on my hybrid. I have thought of several ways which ways should I try?
>>
>>(1) Seat post - currently a suspension model (stock) weights 530
>>grams. New / better rigid weights about 250 grams. Easy to change.
>>
>>(2) Saddle - Currently stock Avenir sport type. Weight 668 grams. New
>>/ better between 200 - 300 grams. Easy to change.
>>
>>(3) Fork - Currently Suntour suspension model (stock). Weight ?? -
>>heavy. New / better steel / rigid weight - 1335 grams uncut. Harder to
>>change must change headset and stem.
>>
>>What is your opinion?
>
>
> Keep the hybrid as a hybrid and buy a nice light road bike as a nice light
> road bike.
>
> Bill "two cents please" S.
>
>
Yeah a nice light road bike is nice but I have a storage issue, I really
only room to store ONE bike. And the last time I was on a road bike I
still had issues with my back pains.

Ken


--
Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride. ~John F. Kennedy

 

[Ken M]

Buck wrote:


>
> Spend your money on making your bike more comfortable, not lighter. You
> are more likely to lose more weight over a shorter period of time from
> the overall package (you and the bicycle) if the bicycle is slightly
> heavier and you have to work a bit harder. Oh yeah, don't forget that
> you will save a bit of money in the process as well.
>

The bike is plenty comfortable. I road it 1100+ miles on tour.

> Wait until you are at a performance level that demands something
> besides a hybrid before you focus on issues of bicycle weight. You will
> spend a lot of money, gain little in weight savings, gain even less in
> overall performance, and even may lose some durability.
>
I found when I bought the lighter bike my fitness rides picked up in
intensity, so I figure dropping more weight would let me pick up
intensity again.


Ken

--
Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride. ~John F. Kennedy

 

[Ken M]

Chris Zacho The Wheelman wrote:

>
> Do you do any off-roading with your rig? If all you come up against is
> periodic rough pavement, I would dump the MTB forks fand grab a riged
> MTB or a touring fork. You may even be able to find one of these that
> will work with your present headset.

No just on-road riding, around town, commuting, and fitness (training)
rides.

Ken
--
Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride. ~John F. Kennedy

 

[Ken M]

maxo wrote:


> I say, go for a rigid post and fork, but don't drop the bank on it.
> Nashbar's got their steel 700c fork on sale for $50 at the moment, so
> I'd grab one of those, a discount seatpost, and some (on sale) 32mm
> smooth tread tires to speed up that ride. Around $100 worth of parts
> isn't something to get upset about.
>
Yeah that nashbar fork was the one I was looking at, but I don't know
anything about threadless headsets and stems, thats why I am a little
hesitant about swapping the fork.

> I'd get those things for reasons other than weight: heavy saddles/posts
> feel nasty when climbing out of the saddle compared to weight on the
> frame or some place more central. Same goes for suspension forks on the
> road: they make the bike "feel" slower and less responsive, even though
> the weight isn't the hugest issue.
>
True I don't like the way the forks feel while climbing "out of the
saddle" feels spongy.

> Get whatever saddle's the comfiest for you, be it Brooks or Flite,
> that's the last place to even think about weight savings.
>
> Dropping five pounds for $100 is a steal, dropping 500g for $1000
> ain't.
>
Well the seatpost and saddle can be had for under $50 to $75 and if my
calculations are correct I could save about 1&1/4 to 1&1/2 pounds.

Ken


--
Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride. ~John F. Kennedy

 

[Bill Sornson]

Ken M wrote:
> Bill Sornson wrote:
>> Ken M wrote:
>>
>>> I have been trying to come up with some ways of saving a bit of
>>> weight on my hybrid. I have thought of several ways which ways
>>> should I try? (1) Seat post - currently a suspension model (stock)
>>> weights 530
>>> grams. New / better rigid weights about 250 grams. Easy to change.
>>>
>>> (2) Saddle - Currently stock Avenir sport type. Weight 668 grams.
>>> New / better between 200 - 300 grams. Easy to change.
>>>
>>> (3) Fork - Currently Suntour suspension model (stock). Weight ?? -
>>> heavy. New / better steel / rigid weight - 1335 grams uncut. Harder
>>> to change must change headset and stem.
>>>
>>> What is your opinion?
>>
>>
>> Keep the hybrid as a hybrid and buy a nice light road bike as a nice
>> light road bike.
>>
>> Bill "two cents please" S.
>>
>>
> Yeah a nice light road bike is nice but I have a storage issue, I
> really only room to store ONE bike. And the last time I was on a road
> bike I still had issues with my back pains.

Ah. (Also read your other replies.)

Well, the changes you're considering aren't THAT expensive -- and WILL shave
off quite a bit of weight -- so either go for it (you might need an LBS's
help with the fork swap) or sell your current bike as is and buy a lighter,
nicer "comfort bike" (hybrid or whatever).

If you have back pain issues, how about KEEPING the sus seatpost but get a
rigid fork and lighter saddle? Just a thought (depending on what issues you
have).

Strangely enough, I just put a new saddle on my bike, and my back is killing
me (and I haven't even ridden it yet!). I must have bent over funny while
removing/installing. SIGH...

Bill "old age sucks raw donkey protuberances" S.

 

[maxo]

Ken M wrote:
> maxo wrote:

> Yeah that nashbar fork was the one I was looking at, but I don't know
> anything about threadless headsets and stems, thats why I am a little
> hesitant about swapping the fork.

If you're the least bit mechanically minded, it's really super easy.
Hardest part may be getting the fork crown race off of the old fork and
seated on the new. You can use a special press or a length of PVC and a
mallet.


http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=65

To remove the race, tapping with a screwdriver and hammer can work.
Always the risk of fubaring it, so if in doubt, just add a new headset
to your order.

When done, you can replace the weight you lost with a nice set of 45mm
Freddy Fenders that will work great with your new fork.

 

[C]

In article <[email protected]>,
Ken M <[email protected]> wrote:
>I have been trying to come up with some ways of saving a bit of weight
>on my hybrid. I have thought of several ways which ways should I try?

Saving weight on a hybrid doesn't make much sense.

 

[Ed Sullivan]

Ken M wrote:
> Buck wrote:
>
>
> >
> > Spend your money on making your bike more comfortable, not lighter. You
> > are more likely to lose more weight over a shorter period of time from
> > the overall package (you and the bicycle) if the bicycle is slightly
> > heavier and you have to work a bit harder. Oh yeah, don't forget that
> > you will save a bit of money in the process as well.
> >
>
> The bike is plenty comfortable. I road it 1100+ miles on tour.
>
> > Wait until you are at a performance level that demands something
> > besides a hybrid before you focus on issues of bicycle weight. You will
> > spend a lot of money, gain little in weight savings, gain even less in
> > overall performance, and even may lose some durability.
> >
> I found when I bought the lighter bike my fitness rides picked up in
> intensity, so I figure dropping more weight would let me pick up
> intensity again.
>
>
> Ken
>
> --
> Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride. ~John F. Kennedy



Dear Ken,

Lose five pounds and you may begin to feel a difference. All the bike
stuff probably adds up to less than a full water bottle.

 

[maxo]

C wrote:

> Saving weight on a hybrid doesn't make much sense.

Why? Are there different physics laws that apply to hybrids? Does the
OP need to get a high falutin' road bike in order for Newton to to step
back into the room?

Taking five pounds off a hybrid and switching to tires that shave 300g
off the rotational mass seems like a no-brainer, for what it's going to
cost.

I'd recommend that the OP switch the tires out to 28mm or 30mm if the
rim accepts something that narrow. Nashbar still has those Hutchinson
Flash tires for $5 a pop--good utility tires that roll reasonably fast,
can't argue with the price.

 

[Ken M]

Bill Sornson wrote:

> Ah. (Also read your other replies.)
>
> Well, the changes you're considering aren't THAT expensive -- and WILL shave
> off quite a bit of weight -- so either go for it (you might need an LBS's
> help with the fork swap) or sell your current bike as is and buy a lighter,
> nicer "comfort bike" (hybrid or whatever).
>
Well funny you should say buy a "better" hybrid, the one I have is just
about the top of the Raleigh line.

> If you have back pain issues, how about KEEPING the sus seatpost but get a
> rigid fork and lighter saddle? Just a thought (depending on what issues you
> have).
>
My back problems seem to spring up when I stay in an aero position for
too long.

> Strangely enough, I just put a new saddle on my bike, and my back is killing
> me (and I haven't even ridden it yet!). I must have bent over funny while
> removing/installing. SIGH...

Well I ain't old, just a bit out of shape. My weight is FINALLY starting
to come off at a decent rate.

Ken

--
Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride. ~John F. Kennedy

 

[Ken M]

Ed Sullivan wrote:

> Dear Ken,
>
> Lose five pounds and you may begin to feel a difference. All the bike
> stuff probably adds up to less than a full water bottle.
>
Yeah, I know my weight makes a big difference, 14 pounds in the last
2&1/2 months. But my calculations say that I can easily take any where
from 1.5 to 5 pounds off the bike. Depending on if I replace the fork.
That would be a BIG bottle of water.

Ken

--
Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride. ~John F. Kennedy

 

[[email protected]]

Ken M wrote:
> Ed Sullivan wrote:
>
> > Dear Ken,
> >
> > Lose five pounds and you may begin to feel a difference. All the bike
> > stuff probably adds up to less than a full water bottle.
> >
> Yeah, I know my weight makes a big difference, 14 pounds in the last
> 2&1/2 months. But my calculations say that I can easily take any where
> from 1.5 to 5 pounds off the bike. Depending on if I replace the fork.
> That would be a BIG bottle of water.
>
> Ken
>
> --
> Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride. ~John F. Kennedy


Dear Ken,

Let's do the math. Say you weigh around 200 lbs and your bike (with
bottles) around 30. 5 pounds is just over a 2% difference in total
weight. Do you think there would be any difference in performance
given all the other factors that influence effort on a bike, such as
wind resistance? Make sure your bike is comfortable and just ride.

thanks,

Ed

 

[Zoot Katz]

On Thu, 8 Dec 2005 20:11:52 +0000 (UTC), [email protected] (C) wrote:

>In article <[email protected]>,
>Ken M <[email protected]> wrote:
>>I have been trying to come up with some ways of saving a bit of weight
>>on my hybrid. I have thought of several ways which ways should I try?
>
>Saving weight on a hybrid doesn't make much sense.

It could make a difference if one must carry the bike up a few flights
of stairs while nursing a broken leg.
I live at ground level and some days my 40-pounder made me wish I'd
ridden the fixie.
--
zk

 

[[email protected]]

maxo wrote:
>
>
> Taking five pounds off a hybrid and switching to tires that shave 300g
> off the rotational mass seems like a no-brainer, for what it's going to
> cost.
>
> I'd recommend that the OP switch the tires out to 28mm or 30mm if the
> rim accepts something that narrow. Nashbar still has those Hutchinson
> Flash tires for $5 a pop--good utility tires that roll reasonably fast,
> can't argue with the price.

I, too, was going to lobby for trading tires first. I don't know what
tires you have on the bike, but it's unlikely they're super-light.
Going to lighter (and perhaps narrower?) tires will reduce weight,
which is what you asked. Going to thinner tubes will also do that.
But both will reduce rolling resistance, and that's usually more
important than raw weight.

BTW, I don't think the "rotational mass" aspect is that important. It
applies only when you're accelerating in a sprint, and most hybrid
riders aren't trying to break away from the pack just before the finish
line!

Beyond the tires, I'd think of it as a dollars-per-gram problem. Do
what makes the most sense by that standard. Yes, changing a fork is
more complicated, but it's not _that_ difficult, and you'll learn while
doing it, and feel good about the knowledge afterwards.

But keep in mind that, unless you're already light weight yourself
_and_ doing a lot of climbing, dropping a pound or two off the bike
won't change your riding experience very much.

- Frank Krygowski

 

[Ken M]

[email protected] wrote:
> Ken M wrote:
>
>>Ed Sullivan wrote:
>>
>>
>>>Dear Ken,
>>>
>>>Lose five pounds and you may begin to feel a difference. All the bike
>>>stuff probably adds up to less than a full water bottle.
>>>
>>
>>Yeah, I know my weight makes a big difference, 14 pounds in the last
>>2&1/2 months. But my calculations say that I can easily take any where
>>from 1.5 to 5 pounds off the bike. Depending on if I replace the fork.
>>That would be a BIG bottle of water.
>>
>>Ken
>>
>>--
>>Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride. ~John F. Kennedy
>
>
>
> Dear Ken,
>
> Let's do the math. Say you weigh around 200 lbs and your bike (with
> bottles) around 30. 5 pounds is just over a 2% difference in total
> weight. Do you think there would be any difference in performance
> given all the other factors that influence effort on a bike, such as
> wind resistance? Make sure your bike is comfortable and just ride.
>
> thanks,
>
> Ed
>
Well if you like math lets use the real numbers. I weigh 156. The bike
with bottles about 22. So I came up with just under 3%. Still not a lot,
but the goal of putting the bike on a diet was just to pick up a bit of
speed in the flats.

Ken


--
Nothing compares to the simple pleasure of a bike ride. ~John F. Kennedy