On 02 May 2003 12:49:58 GMT,
[email protected] (Qui si parla Campagnolo) wrote:
>bball-<< "Once per month" gives us little information: That may be 150mi or
>1200mi.
>
>Yep, once per month, don't think I'll ever do 300 miles per week...
>
><< How many miles do your chains last @1/16" stretch?
>
>About 12 months....
>
>Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St./ Boulder, CO, 80302
>(303)440-3535
------------------------
On 03 May 2003 12:19:17 GMT,
[email protected] (Qui si parla Campagnolo) wrote:
>bball-<< When a guy asks: "How often do people clean their chains?", give him a good answer, not
>********.
>
>Ride on; more on the saddle, less on the keyboard.
>
>I can see you left your sense of humor on the road somewhere-when I said '12 months'-
>
>I use a Rohloff chain checker, and with my riding of about 11-12 hours per week, a new chain every
>12 months or so. In the shop we recommend changing the chain about every 3000 -3500 miles or
>so-like changing the oil in yer car...
>
>
>Peter Chisholm Vecchio's Bicicletteria 1833 Pearl St. Boulder, CO, 80302
>(303)440-3535
http://www.vecchios.com "Ruote convenzionali costruite eccezionalmente bene"
--------------------------
I posted the original simple question of how many miles per 1/16" chain stretch, and got evasive
answer. We still haven't quite got there but we're getting close @ 3000-3500 mi/chain life as your
shop recommendation.
There's been ongoing debate on chain care thru the years, here and in other bike newsgroups, between
the disassemblers/bucket sloshers and mounted degunkers/sprayers, myself of the latter.
There's been the grinding paste theory, which intuitively appears very sensible as a result of
relubing a dirty chain. And that the grinding paste will prevail in less than a thoroughly
cleaned chain.
But all that being said I can say that thru 5-6 recent riding years that I routinely achieve
3000mi/chain ($10 PC-48), early change @
1/16" stretch, de-gunk and spray-clean per 300mi, motor oil lubrication per 100mi
-----------------------
The past year '02 I picked up a couple of old bikes in good shape; Schwinn Passage and Miyata
Alumicross, both with triples and 14-28 6-freewheels. Judging by the paint, bb, headset, components
in general; these both spent a lot of garage time. I love these bikes and the 27" wheels, two NOS
Weinmann 215s rear and one front, trued, stress-relieved, grease packed. And, wince, a good Huffy
overhaul with Valvoline 85W-140 gear oil dumped down the seat tube to the bb, and tip-up, drizzle up
the down tube to get the head bearings -- repeated about every six months/2000 mi. 2800, 3600 on
these bikes, respectively, so far, and they'll both go for a long time. (I also ride equally a Marin
MTB and Trek 1200; a good range overall)
But to the point: I replaced the chains on these bikes with PC-48's, incorporated accumulated chain
mileage into a riding spreadsheet. Lubed with the 85W-140 gear oil/100mi, spray clean/300mi. The
Schwinn shows 1/32" stretch @ 2814 mi, and really about the same on the Miyata @ 1716 (too early to
tell here). I measure with a steel tape from 1" to 13" or 2" to 14", avoiding the end of the tape.
Looks like the Schwinn PC-48 might make it to 5000 mi, and the Miyata at very least to 3000. Looks
good to me as 3 chain/year rider, minimal dinkaround maintainance time with $10 chains. Else is
beyond diminishing return.
My own conclusions:
2. It's not worthwhile to dinkaround and excessively clean. Sprayoff is payoff on inexpensive
chains which give one great wear for the money. 3000 mi @ 1/16" stretch, the chain doesen't
owe you anything -- $10, put on a new one. Your cassette can handle about three of these,
and if you're really cheap, put on another chain, run it down to 1/8" stretch, trash the
chain & cassette.
3. Grinding paste wear is a myth; at least beyond diminishing return. Lube the dirty chain when the
rollers look dry @ 100mi. Better to maintain an oil cushion between teeth and rollers. Rings and
cogs can last a long time, but when worn can chew up a new chain in no time.
4. There are a multitude of other things to consider, e.g. chainwrap on 11T vs 14-16T cruise,
mild derailleur malallignment which can trash a chain @ 800 mi, riding habits -- aggressive vs
cruise, granny torque, dirt dust mud water, and keeping the drivetrain/chain straight and
least crossed.
But to me Peter, it boiles down to:
HOW MANY MILES PER 1/16" CHAIN STRETCH, AND HOW DO YOU TAKE CARE OF YOUR CHAINS? This is to
everybody, and trash yer beliefs, instead rely upon the scientific method and direct experience and
experimentation. I don't exclude myself either (1) I've picked up an old Trek 1200 with upgrade
components, put on a PC-48 and lubing with 3-in-one oil. (2) Today began running a PC-48 on a 11-32
9-cassette on Marin MTB. Shifting good, keep the drivetrain straight.
A very simple question continuously and evasively answered by Vecchios by Peter, a bucket slosher of
chains and derailer pulleys. Hot damn.
My frustration is justified, my thunder of ******** reverberates thru the heavens, but I ride on
with 27", 26", 700C. My bikes are very quiet, responsive, and they roll very, very well for many,
many miles, every year.
----------------
And, incidentally, I'm amused here on the newsgroup, when a whole lot of discussion had ensued upon
a Trek 1200 and 1000 regarding cassette removal and spacing for 126-130mm wheels. At the time I
happened to pick up a Trek 1200 w/126mm dropouts and 7s Uniglide cassette where the small cog
unscrews for cassette removal. A very quick look tells you that there's no room for any
cassette/freewheel remover tool. And all the discussion/advice that ensued for irrevelant freewheel
and hypoerglide cassette removal. And further, the great problems of frame spreading to accomodate
an 130mm spaced 8sp cassette/hub. And the great potential problems with possible brake frame
attachments.
Mental masturbation to extremes.
It's so damn easy to spring a 130mm wheel into a Trek 126mm dropout frame, the question of permanent
framespread is insignificant. I've done it 20 times during the past month for a variety of reasons.
Requires no Herculean strength and pop goes the weasel.
Reminds me of the mechanically challenged who have ridden their bikes in one gear because they've
never figured out how the shifting works.
Too many people live their lives the same way.
I'll take a wild thrust that those who excessively clean their bicycle drivetrains don't understand
diminishing return, and probably don't ride their bikes all that much, nor enjoy them that much.
That bikes to a cyclist is like walking is to Walt Whitman is incomprehensible.
Bruce Ball