How Often Do You Clean And Lub?
- Thread starter bengyap
- Start date
bengyap said:
I do it weekly...which is about 125-150 kms. I found the cleaning bit was a bit tedious, even with the chain cleaner gizmo, so I switched to White Lightening, self cleaning lube. I find I have to lube more often but it's a 30 second job now, so who cares?
I do not find it to be much of a chore. Once a week - two weeks depending on how much riding and the kind of weather...
I LOVE the look of the drive train when it is all shiny and clean... then again I am weird and really enjoy cleaning chainring teeth.
I LOVE the look of the drive train when it is all shiny and clean... then again I am weird and really enjoy cleaning chainring teeth.
Brunswick_kate said:
I only use the chain cleaner gizmo when I want the chain to look shiny for a special event; don't believe it really does anything to help chainlife.
I normally just wipe the chain down with a rag when it looks dirty after a ride. I lube it at about 150 miles, which is often weekly. Using Finish Line Drylube, one drop per bushing, takes me more than 30 seconds, but less than 5 minutes.
I clean about twice a month. I also use White Lightning.which puts me in a odd group because one shouldn't have to clean when using this lube, if one believes the label/hype etc. But my drivetrain lasts a long time and is always presentable at the worst. White Lightning is a much maligned lubricant, mostly because people do not follow the label instructions.
I have a Quick Link which makes cleaning easier. I also use cheap paint thinner and the plastic soft drink bottle trick. I usually do three solvent washings per session, recycling the thinner by letting it settle and decanting the sediment to prevent dirt transfer. I think I use about a quart a year which with the WL, is about $15 a year in material cost.
The chain is removed and threaded into a 20 oz. size bottle. About 4 oz of thinner is added and the bottle capped. I shake for a few minutes, then let it sit while I clean the frame, cogs and rings. I shake again and drain into my settling bottle. Another 4 oz is added, shaken and repeated. I use a bit of the thinner on a rag to clean the rings and take to cassette apart to clean the cogs. The chain is then removed by cutting the bottle, shaken and dried. I relube OFF the bike, preventing the dreaded buildup which so many neophytes abhorr. Another benefit to drying off the bike is the lack of tension allows better lube retention. Let the chain dry for the recommended 2-5 hours, then install and enjoy 500+ miles of trouble free riding. You don't need to clean between each application but it sure makes less mess.
I rode in rain this weekend, even though it was only for about 4 miles (at the end of the ride) and the chain is still perfect. Dirt and any lube is much easier to wash off than dirt free lube. The dirt acts as a primitive detergent.
I have a Quick Link which makes cleaning easier. I also use cheap paint thinner and the plastic soft drink bottle trick. I usually do three solvent washings per session, recycling the thinner by letting it settle and decanting the sediment to prevent dirt transfer. I think I use about a quart a year which with the WL, is about $15 a year in material cost.
The chain is removed and threaded into a 20 oz. size bottle. About 4 oz of thinner is added and the bottle capped. I shake for a few minutes, then let it sit while I clean the frame, cogs and rings. I shake again and drain into my settling bottle. Another 4 oz is added, shaken and repeated. I use a bit of the thinner on a rag to clean the rings and take to cassette apart to clean the cogs. The chain is then removed by cutting the bottle, shaken and dried. I relube OFF the bike, preventing the dreaded buildup which so many neophytes abhorr. Another benefit to drying off the bike is the lack of tension allows better lube retention. Let the chain dry for the recommended 2-5 hours, then install and enjoy 500+ miles of trouble free riding. You don't need to clean between each application but it sure makes less mess.
I rode in rain this weekend, even though it was only for about 4 miles (at the end of the ride) and the chain is still perfect. Dirt and any lube is much easier to wash off than dirt free lube. The dirt acts as a primitive detergent.
Weisse Luft said:
Good you do several rinses when solvent washing the chain; my thinking is that a quick soaking in dirty solvent could do more harm than good. You're obviously dedicated to a clean drivetrain...much more so than I am.
Like your comment about neophytes abhorring the dreaded buildup. I did a hard metric Century yesterday, and have to say I never noticed anyone's chain or cog cleanliness. By that standard, guess I'm a senior rider.
A grimey drivetrain annoys me, though it depends on the bike. My trusty workhorse, admittedly, gets fairly infrequent love. I want that one to shift and run smoothly, and beyond that, I let it go for long periods. My pretty bike gets scrubbed and lubed more obsessively -- roughly every four or five shorter rides.
Bike gets a once over and wipedown after every ride. Fresh wax job on Thursday night if a weekend of riding is planned. Keeping fresh wax on the painted surfaces makes cleanup a whole lot easier. Dirt doesn't stick to wax very well, and it can be wiped off quickly. And the bike looks sharp - we all know that a beautiful bike is at least 1mph faster than an ugly one.
Chain - gets a light shot of graphite based lock oil once a week. Every other month, chain comes off and goes into the ultrasonic cleaner.
Chain - gets a light shot of graphite based lock oil once a week. Every other month, chain comes off and goes into the ultrasonic cleaner.
JohnO said:
Wax is great on the frame, but wouldn't 2 or 3 times a season be often enough to reapply?
Also, I'm surprised you use lock oil with graphite on the chain...doesn't it tend to be black and messy? I don't like the wax-based chain lubes I've tried, but graphite lock oil seems a bit extreme on the "make-work" side.
Not trying to disparage your rituals here; we all do this stuff differently. Just curious as to how/why this routine works for you.
Once every 2 weeks or 200 miles whichever comes first. I mean lubbing 'cause I too use White Lighing so there's nothing to clean other than dirt and sand around BB and chainstays.
I found myself riding cuple of hundred miles a week these days in an urgency to rake as much miles as possible outside before the cold season sets in. So far I got close to 2,000 miles (this season) on a new chain and WL and seems to be holding just peachy.
I found myself riding cuple of hundred miles a week these days in an urgency to rake as much miles as possible outside before the cold season sets in. So far I got close to 2,000 miles (this season) on a new chain and WL and seems to be holding just peachy.
Sounds like I'm the worst one here about cleaning the chain. Although I'll wipe it down and relube the chain frequently, I only take it off the bike and do a thorough Sheldon Brown style cleaning at 500 miles. At 1000 miles I replace the chain with a new one. Every 500 miles the entire bike gets a bath and towel dry (occasionally I'll use the leaf blower!! ) and all the pivot points get a touch of lube.
My reasoning is chains are cheap. Having bought several on ebay for a pittance they are a disposable item. One auction I won was for a box of 10 KMC Z-9000 chains for $54 shipped. Although they aren't Dura-Ace quality, for under $5.50 American who cares? I've never had any problems with the less expensive KMC Z-9000, SRAM PC-49, PC-59 or Shimano HG53 chains.
I just don't see a need to squeeze 3000 miles out of a chain. Should someone want to slap on a Dura-Ace chain for a race that's one thing. I don't think that level of quality is necessary for training rides though. Same goes for cassettes.
) and all the pivot points get a touch of lube. My reasoning is chains are cheap. Having bought several on ebay for a pittance they are a disposable item. One auction I won was for a box of 10 KMC Z-9000 chains for $54 shipped. Although they aren't Dura-Ace quality, for under $5.50 American who cares? I've never had any problems with the less expensive KMC Z-9000, SRAM PC-49, PC-59 or Shimano HG53 chains.
I just don't see a need to squeeze 3000 miles out of a chain. Should someone want to slap on a Dura-Ace chain for a race that's one thing. I don't think that level of quality is necessary for training rides though. Same goes for cassettes.
Those chains work, but I believe a higher-quality chain will last longer, run quieter, shift better and have less friction. Plus, the better chains are lighter, if that matters.
But, why replace any chain every 1000 miles, or on any fixed schedule, when they are so easy to check? I'm running a PC-99 now, and at 4000 miles it just shows a bit of wear against the 12" mark on a steel rule. It's still well within the 0.75% on the Park CC-3 gauge.....I'll replace it between .75% and 1.0%. BTW, it's never been off the bike for cleaning...it gets a wipe down with a rag when it looks dirty.
But, why replace any chain every 1000 miles, or on any fixed schedule, when they are so easy to check? I'm running a PC-99 now, and at 4000 miles it just shows a bit of wear against the 12" mark on a steel rule. It's still well within the 0.75% on the Park CC-3 gauge.....I'll replace it between .75% and 1.0%. BTW, it's never been off the bike for cleaning...it gets a wipe down with a rag when it looks dirty.
I just apply White lightning before each ride. I get a couple thousand miles out of a chain before it's stretched too much to use. At that point I do a complete drivetrain cleaning and go with a new chain. Currently I'm using a SRAM with little holes on each side plate. Looks cool and shifts great
I used to do the old melted wax and Triflo technique, but it was a lot more work, was messier, and the chain didn't last any longer.
Tim
I used to do the old melted wax and Triflo technique, but it was a lot more work, was messier, and the chain didn't last any longer.
Tim
Is just regular car wax acceptable for a painted aluminum frame? Anything special to be aware of when doing this? My car has a clearcoat finish so there's no worries there. With the bike, it's aluminum and has no clearcoat at all. Other than some of the colored areas, it appears to be a "flat black".JohnO said:
Should I really wax this and, if so, what precautions do I need to take?? I think it's a good theory (helps keep the car cleaner!) but I don't want to cause more harm than good on a painted surface with no clearcoat.
Agreed.dhk said:
For such a low maintenance routine that's excellent wear. Sounds like the SRAM PC-99 is well worth the extra coin.
Part of my reasoning behind frequently replacing the chain is because I used to do a frequent rigorous clean and lube to my old GT Corrado MTB. Unfortunately, I still trashed my drivetrain. It's just cheap insurance to replace every 1000 miles. The guys at my LBS put on a new chain whenever the factory grease wears off. They claim their drivetrains will last virtually forever. I don't know how true that is but there is some method to their madness.
Doctor Morbius said:
I've got no experience with MTB, but 1000 miles might be a lot off-road, depending on the type of sand/dust you riding over.
Sounds like your LBS likes to sell chains. Replacing chains when the grease wears off is like the tire dealer selling you new tires every time you come in for a rotate and balance. Besides, the chain needs a few hundred miles and several lube cycles to work that factory gunk out and get broken in.
Believe a chain worn to 0.75%, or even up 1% elongation, is within industry recommendations. This degree of wear shouldn't hurt chainrings or cogs.
It isn't the shop's policy. It is a couple of the mechanics that have been doing that. They claim the factory grease is the best lube for a chain. Also, they get their chains at a considerable discount since they work there.dhk said:
Personally, I find the chain has a little rattle to it when only factory grease is used. I've tried various lubes from Shimano Spit Lube to motor oil (messy) to paraffin wax to silocone spray (horrible). I'm currently using 3in1. It seems to be working as well as the Shimano Spit Lube, which is the best one I've tried so far. My Dad had an old 4 oz. tin of machine oil that I poured into an empty Spit Lube hypo and it's the same color and appears to be about the same viscosity as the Spit Lube. So I assume that Shimano's higher priced Spit Lube is merely some machine oil with a brand name and some marketing. I've been wanting to try some Boeshield T-9 but haven't gotten around to it yet.
Another shop Ive been to recommends dropping a couple hundred bucks every year on a whole new drivetrain.
They're mostly MTBers and the shop owner states that after a season of racing/training the drivetrain is shot. That's probably what happened to my old GT, even though I was cleaning and lubricating it on a regular basis. I don't ride in mud and gunk anymore so that wouldn't apply to my newer bikes. I've read your and boudreaux's comments in the "Service Intervals" thread and will probably pick up a Park chain checker the next time I place an order with Nashbar. I've been using a ruler but the chain checker looks easier to use. Still though, you have to figure that in the 4000 miles that you've put on your SRAM PC-99 chain, I've only spent approx. $22.00 for four KMC Z-9000 chains by replacing them every 1000 miles. That's pretty darn cheap any way you look at it.
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?...and=&sku=11164&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=
I bath daily, almost always in the shower, and don't use any kind of wax or lube.
Seriously though. I don't really monitor my maintenance schedule, but probably wipe off the chain and re-apply a dry wax every 50-75 miles. The rest of the bike gets cleaned only when it gets dirty...not that often. Where I ride it's always dry...when I used to ride where it was wet (and use wet lube) and when I used to MTB, cleanings and lube jobs occured as often as after every ride.
And what is the reason for changing a chain before it gets worn/stretches? I don't think I've ever changed a chain on a road bike before 2-3k mi... and have never had one break (a long walk home might have me doing this more proactively I suppose).
Seriously though. I don't really monitor my maintenance schedule, but probably wipe off the chain and re-apply a dry wax every 50-75 miles. The rest of the bike gets cleaned only when it gets dirty...not that often. Where I ride it's always dry...when I used to ride where it was wet (and use wet lube) and when I used to MTB, cleanings and lube jobs occured as often as after every ride.
And what is the reason for changing a chain before it gets worn/stretches? I don't think I've ever changed a chain on a road bike before 2-3k mi... and have never had one break (a long walk home might have me doing this more proactively I suppose).
I'm not too good when it comes to cleaning the bike. Though I do make sure the bike is in good working order all the time. I only tend to clean it when it gets pretty dirty.
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