How to Convert LifeCycle 9500HR to real world difficulty

[Dunleyg]

Hi, I am tring to get information on how to train on a stationary bike and how it will relate to when I get on paved and gravel roads. As a example I can set my Life Cycle 9500 HR to level 1 and maintain 75rpm and 8 mph with litttle difficulty, but If I set the difficulty to 4 I have to push twice as hard to maintain the same 8 MPH. If I was on a 10-Speed I would shift and for the same excertion I would have been going 16 MPH. Any one have any idea on how to convert "Difficulty Level" times MPH to get the MPH I would be doing if I was on a level paved road and a Level gravel trail?

Thanks

 

[frenchyge]

If the bike reads out watts, then the easiest way is to use the tools at www.analyticcycling.com . Look on the right side for Static Forces on Rider --> Speed, Given Power.

If the bike doesn't read out watts, then there's no way to do it. Forget about mph and miles and just think in terms of "I'm doing XX minutes at a easy/moderate/brisk/fast pace."

 

[postal_bag]

If the bike reads out watts, then the easiest way is to use the tools at www.analyticcycling.com . Look on the right side for Static Forces on Rider --> Speed, Given Power.

If the bike doesn't read out watts, then there's no way to do it. Forget about mph and miles and just think in terms of "I'm doing XX minutes at a easy/moderate/brisk/fast pace."

My experience is that you can get a watts readout in the optional settings window of Life Cycle staionary bikes. Check the manual for the procedure to change the optional settings. There is even a watts program that enables you to ride at a prescribed power output regardles of cadence. Speed, however, is irrelevant on these machines.

 

[azdroptop]

Use the "Race" mode on the life cycle as well so that the harder you pedal the more resistance you get.

 

[danch]

Hi, I am tring to get information on how to train on a stationary bike and how it will relate to when I get on paved and gravel roads. As a example I can set my Life Cycle 9500 HR to level 1 and maintain 75rpm and 8 mph with litttle difficulty, but If I set the difficulty to 4 I have to push twice as hard to maintain the same 8 MPH. If I was on a 10-Speed I would shift and for the same excertion I would have been going 16 MPH. Any one have any idea on how to convert "Difficulty Level" times MPH to get the MPH I would be doing if I was on a level paved road and a Level gravel trail?

Thanks

How accurate is the wattage readout on those things?

 

[Dunleyg]

Hi, Again. Thanks on the tip to use "Race mode" and about checking out www.anyliticcycling.com. From doing some experiments and research I have come up with a few numbers. After appoximating my total weight (250lbs), upright posture (.7 m2), Speed required to do each leg of the Katy trail (10.2 mph), no wind, trail conditions (.02crr), flat grade (.002), and cadance (80 rpm) it will require a continous output of 164 Watts. To get 164 Watts off the life cycle I'll have to be riding at Level 10 at 80RPM. My wife whose total weight is 150lbs will have to output 112 Watts continously. So for her, if she can do Level 7 at 80 RPM without her heart rate continoursly climbing she should be able to do the Katy trail? Does this sound right?

I ignore the MPH on the lifecyles because at Level 10 at 80 rpm I am going 24MPH! I HIGHLY doubt I would be going 24 MPH on the Katy trail given the same level of exertion.

My wife and I are out of shape. I can only do Level 10 for about 30 minutes and my heart rate goes into the 140's. My wife can do bursts of Level 7 but after 10 minutes she is worn out. Meaning we have a long way before we are ready to ride the Katy trail.

In addition to the stationary biking 4 times a week, we are doing 2 hour rides once a week on a paved bike path. We break every 30 minutes and though we walk "funny" right after each ride we are fine after a 15 minute break. A question I had was how long in the saddle should a Novice, beginner, intermediate, and a expert be expected to sit per day with out any ill effects?

Thanks again for the help.

Below is some more info from anyilicccyling and my some of my experiments

3.3m/s@70Rpm for 113kg = 88 watts
5.4m/s@80rpm for 68kg = 112 watts
5.4m/s@80rpm for 90kg = 138 watts
5.4m/s@80rpm for 113kg = 164 watts
5.4m/s@80rpm for 136kg = 190 watts
6.7m/s@90rpm for 113kg = 226 watts

On a Life Fitness HR9500 cycle tryng to keep RPM steady for a valid read out
L6@80rpm=101 watts
L6@90rpm=107 watts
L6@100rpm=112 watts
L9@70rpm=142 watts
L9@80rpm=149 watts
L9@90rpm=161 watts
L12@70rpm=187 watts

 

[frenchyge]

Those power numbers from the website sound pretty reasonable to me, for your sizes and the quality of the road you'll be travelling. Many posters here indicate that the accuracy of the power readings from certain exer-cycles are questionable, however. 164w on the cycle may not truly be 164w, but that's the best you have, so go with it. Is there something driving you to 10.2mph, or could you ride slower and reduce your power requirement?

Also, just because you can ride at a certain power without your HR climbing does not necessarily mean you can do it for the entire length of the Katy Trail. Fatigue and discomfort will set in eventually, even though your HR may be stable. You will want to gradually increase the length of your training rides to get your body accustomed to the length of your daily trail ride distances. About 10% per week is a good amount of increase to prevent injury. Good luck with your training, and your ride.