How To Measure For A Road Stem (Quill)



All,

For a fixie / SS trail bike I'm building, how shold I measure for the
stem?

I plan on using a Nitto Deluxe or Technomic-type quill stem, and
shallow drop bars.

(anything else?)

Thanks!

Phil
 
[email protected] wrote:
> On 16 Aug 2006 15:50:48 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>
> >All,
> >
> >For a fixie / SS trail bike I'm building, how shold I measure for the
> >stem?
> >
> >I plan on using a Nitto Deluxe or Technomic-type quill stem, and
> >shallow drop bars.
> >
> >(anything else?)
> >
> >Thanks!
> >
> >Phil

>
> Dear Phil,
>
> Sheldon Brown offers advice:
>
> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html
>
> Cheers,
>
> Carl Fogel


Carl,

Thank you for the link.

However, that didn't really answer my question.

I am looking for information on how to measure the reach of the stem (I
suppose I should have said this earlier). Most of what Sheldon talks
about I am already aware of... I don't believe I am interested in a
stem with any particular rise...

I'm 6' 6", the bike is a steel 68cm frame, my dress shirt size is 17 x
37 tall...

Cheers,

Phil
 
On 16 Aug 2006 16:11:55 -0700, [email protected] wrote:

>
>[email protected] wrote:
>> On 16 Aug 2006 15:50:48 -0700, [email protected] wrote:
>>
>> >All,
>> >
>> >For a fixie / SS trail bike I'm building, how shold I measure for the
>> >stem?
>> >
>> >I plan on using a Nitto Deluxe or Technomic-type quill stem, and
>> >shallow drop bars.
>> >
>> >(anything else?)
>> >
>> >Thanks!
>> >
>> >Phil

>>
>> Dear Phil,
>>
>> Sheldon Brown offers advice:
>>
>> http://www.sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Carl Fogel

>
>Carl,
>
>Thank you for the link.
>
>However, that didn't really answer my question.
>
>I am looking for information on how to measure the reach of the stem (I
>suppose I should have said this earlier). Most of what Sheldon talks
>about I am already aware of... I don't believe I am interested in a
>stem with any particular rise...
>
>I'm 6' 6", the bike is a steel 68cm frame, my dress shirt size is 17 x
>37 tall...
>
>Cheers,
>
>Phil


Dear Phil,

As Sheldon says . . .

Reach
The "reach" is the distance from the centerline of the steering axis
to the center of the handlebar clamp area, but the issue is the angle
this measurement is taken from.
Traditional "road" stems shaped like the number "7" have a reach
measured along the horizontal axis. Newer type stems that have
different "rise" angles most often measure the reach along the axis of
the rise, which leads to confusion...a 120 mm "7" shaped stem raised
to place the handleabars at the same height as a nominal 120 mm stem
with 135 degree (45 degree) rise will actually place the handlebars
substantially farther forward.

Height
Height is an important variable, not usually specified in any clear
way. In the case of "7" shaped stems, if height is specified, it is
usually the overall length of the vertical part from top to bottom.
Stems are available in a wide range of rise, reach and height.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/handsup.html

Sheldon's last paragraph says it all--reach is important, there's no
clear specification, and a wide range is available.

A local bike shop may help, but in the end you try things and see how
you like them. That's why you're asking for help--there are no clear
specifications.

Cheers,

Carl Fogel
 
[email protected] writes:

>All,


>For a fixie / SS trail bike I'm building, how shold I measure for the
>stem?


Do you have another bike that fits you "the best" ?? Fit can be a
very personal thing, and there is no "set formula" for parameters like
toptube length / reach.

On the bike that "fits you the best", measure from the middle of the
seatpost to the center of the handlebars (i'm assuming that you fixie
riders have bars lower than seat, you racy guys.)

take the tape over to the new bike, install any-old stem for a moment,
and measure the same distance from the seatpost to the gooseneck
column. the difference from the seatpost to the bars (on the original
bike) minus the difference from the seatpost to the gooseneck (on the
fixie being built up) is going to be your reach.

- Don Gillies
San Diego, CA
 
Donald Gillies wrote:
> [email protected] writes:
>
> >All,

>
> >For a fixie / SS trail bike I'm building, how shold I measure for the
> >stem?

>
> Do you have another bike that fits you "the best" ?? Fit can be a
> very personal thing, and there is no "set formula" for parameters like
> toptube length / reach.
>
> On the bike that "fits you the best", measure from the middle of the
> seatpost to the center of the handlebars (i'm assuming that you fixie
> riders have bars lower than seat, you racy guys.)
>
> take the tape over to the new bike, install any-old stem for a moment,
> and measure the same distance from the seatpost to the gooseneck
> column. the difference from the seatpost to the bars (on the original
> bike) minus the difference from the seatpost to the gooseneck (on the
> fixie being built up) is going to be your reach.
>
> - Don Gillies
> San Diego, CA


Don,

Thanks for your answer.

That sounds like a good way to go; however, I don't have an old stem &
h'bars laying around. I don't care to borrow a set from another of my
bikes, because then I'd have to disconnect the brake & gear cables.

Is there a less empiracle (sp?) method of determining the correct stem
length?

I thought I saw something, in perhaps, Sloane's book, that said to
place your elbow at the nose of the seat & see where the end of your
fingertips reach. That would be the correct stem length.

Cheers,

Phil
 
[email protected] wrote:
> I thought I saw something, in perhaps, Sloane's book, that said to
> place your elbow at the nose of the seat & see where the end of your
> fingertips reach. That would be the correct stem length.


That's a rule of thumb, and it doesn't apply everywhere. Differing
riding styles (i.e. upright townie bike vs. low-slung racer) lead to
different reaches. Differing body types (i.e. small hands, short arms
compared to other people your height) lead to different reaches. Since
your dimensions are well away from the mean, I suggest you ignore any of
these rules of thumb. Should you encounter this rule of thumb, ignore it
too: the handlebar should obscure the front axle when riding.

The *only* way to determine proper reach for your body and riding style
is experimentation. You might start with one of the above rules of thumb
if you wish to pursue this on your own, but do not be surprised to find
that it's way off. A better approach would be to find a local bike shop
or club with knowledgeable staff or riders. They should be able to get
you closer to optimum at first crack, and if it's a bike shop, they may
even have various stem lengths that you can use for a few days while you
find your favorite setup.

Sorry we can't give you a simple formula. Good luck with your hunt.

--
Dave
dvt at psu dot edu

Everyone confesses that exertion which brings out all the powers of body
and mind is the best thing for us; but most people do all they can to
get rid of it, and as a general rule nobody does much more than
circumstances drive them to do. -Harriet Beecher Stowe, abolitionist and
novelist (1811-1896)
 
[email protected] wrote:

> That sounds like a good way to go; however, I don't have an old stem &
> h'bars laying around. I don't care to borrow a set from another of my
> bikes, because then I'd have to disconnect the brake & gear cables.
>
> Is there a less empiracle (sp?) method of determining t he correct stem
> length?
>
> I thought I saw something, in perhaps, Sloane's book, that said to
> place your elbow at the nose of the seat & see where the end of your
> fingertips reach. That would be the correct stem length.


I always wanted to try that rule. I finally did on my most recent: it
resulted in a 6cm road stem, very short. I've been riding it for a few
years and find it about 1" too short-I should have an 8 or a 9.
However, it's not a big enough problem for me to bother changing it,
for now. One day, I will. By the way this too-short stem also
satisifies the "obscure the front axle" rule.

In short, there's no way to find your correct stem length except by
experimentation. Try sitting on the bike without the stem or handlebars
and bend over to where you would like to be. Have a friend help you to
find what stem length that requires. The friend can also help you hold
the bicycle stationary...

I think this is another benefit of drop bars. You have quite a bit of
flexibility to move around on them to counter any primary error in stem
length.

 
[email protected] wrote:
> Donald Gillies wrote:
> > [email protected] writes:
> >
> > >All,

> >
> > >For a fixie / SS trail bike I'm building, how shold I measure for the
> > >stem?

> >
> > Do you have another bike that fits you "the best" ?? Fit can be a
> > very personal thing, and there is no "set formula" for parameters like
> > toptube length / reach.
> >
> > On the bike that "fits you the best", measure from the middle of the
> > seatpost to the center of the handlebars (i'm assuming that you fixie
> > riders have bars lower than seat, you racy guys.)
> >
> > take the tape over to the new bike, install any-old stem for a moment,
> > and measure the same distance from the seatpost to the gooseneck
> > column. the difference from the seatpost to the bars (on the original
> > bike) minus the difference from the seatpost to the gooseneck (on the
> > fixie being built up) is going to be your reach.
> >
> > - Don Gillies
> > San Diego, CA

>
> Don,
>
> Thanks for your answer.
>
> That sounds like a good way to go; however, I don't have an old stem &
> h'bars laying around. I don't care to borrow a set from another of my
> bikes, because then I'd have to disconnect the brake & gear cables.
>
> Is there a less empiracle (sp?) method of determining the correct stem
> length?
>
> I thought I saw something, in perhaps, Sloane's book, that said to
> place your elbow at the nose of the seat & see where the end of your
> fingertips reach. That would be the correct stem length.
>
>


I remember that one from the early '70s. IME, it will give a very short
stem and a very cramped cockpit.
 

Similar threads