UK and Europe · Public discussion

How To Measure Spoke length

Started by Præthön · · Last activity · 5 posts · 2,366 views

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UK and Europe
Published
17 March 2008
Last activity
19 March 2008
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Præthön
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  1. I am restoring an old 1980's Peugeot touring bike. A couple of the spokes
    have broken on the rear wheel so I need to replace them. However I have
    never done this before and am unsure how to actually obtain an accurate
    spoke length. A quick Google search threw up a few differing methods. Can
    any of you wheel builders out there provide some advice to a novice please.
    Am I right in thinking it is millimeter critical?

    Cheers

    Stuart

  2. Præthön said:

    I am restoring an old 1980's Peugeot touring bike. A couple of the spokes
    have broken on the rear wheel so I need to replace them. However I have
    never done this before and am unsure how to actually obtain an accurate
    spoke length. A quick Google search threw up a few differing methods. Can
    any of you wheel builders out there provide some advice to a novice please.
    Am I right in thinking it is millimeter critical?

    Within about 3mm should be OK.

    Easiest is measure one of the spokes you've got-- take out one of the
    ones that isn't broken, bend it straight, and measure it from the elbow
    bend all the way to the end. Or just measure the broken one.

    Remember spokes on the back wheel are usually different lengths on the
    left and right side, so measure a spoke from the correct side.

  3. Præthön said:

    I am restoring an old 1980's Peugeot touring bike. A couple of the spokes
    have broken on the rear wheel so I need to replace them. However I have
    never done this before and am unsure how to actually obtain an accurate
    spoke length. A quick Google search threw up a few differing methods. Can
    any of you wheel builders out there provide some advice to a novice please.
    Am I right in thinking it is millimeter critical?

    Cheers

    Stuart


    The usual method as I understand it is to use the distance from the
    inide of the elbow to the end of the spoke.
    If you look at the amount of thread protruding (preferably none) or the
    distance from the end of the spoke to the end of the nipple on the
    surviving spokes then you'll get an idea of how much tolerance there is.
    if they've all been ground off then I'd go a size down. It would
    probably do no harm to remove one of the survivors (from the same side)
    and take it into the shop where you should be able to compare them.
    It may well be worth checking for damage at the hub end on the other
    spokes sice the chain may well have been dumped into them at some point.

    Roger Thorpe

  4. Thanks for the replies. I managed to measure it with a Park Tools spoke
    ruler at my LBS. I had measured it at 295mm and the ruler had it at 296mm,
    so pretty close.

  5. In article <[email hidden]>,
    "Præthön" <praethonatnerdshackdotcom> says...

    Quoted message said:

    I am restoring an old 1980's Peugeot touring bike. A couple of the spokes
    have broken on the rear wheel so I need to replace them. However I have
    never done this before and am unsure how to actually obtain an accurate
    spoke length. A quick Google search threw up a few differing methods. Can
    any of you wheel builders out there provide some advice to a novice please.

    Take out a good one, hook the elbow over the end of a 12 inch steel
    rule, read off the length. :-) Note the drive side spokes will be a
    couple of mm shorter than the slack side. Also be aware you may come to
    true the wheel after replacing a few spokes only to find that others are
    so seized that they'll break rsther than turn.

    Quoted message said:

    Am I right in thinking it is millimeter critical?


    Pretty much - too short and you risk stripping the thread in the nipple,
    too long and there may not be enough thread on the spoke to tighten it
    fully (plus it's a pain having to grind down protruding spoke ends).
    Ideally the spoke end should be flush with the bottom of the slot in the
    nipple when it's properly tensioned.

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