How to Remove a SRAM link

[Peter Cole]

Davy wrote:
> My cycle has a SRAM chain with a removable link. Can
> anyone advise on how to remove the link?
> Davy

You have to simultaneously squeeze the side plates together while
squeezing the pins together. You can do it by hand, by hand with one
pair of pliers, or with two pairs of pliers, depending on how difficult
it is to unsnap. I've had some that were very easy and some that were
nearly impossible. Cleaning the link often helps. One trick is to bend a
stout wire into a "V" and use it to squeeze the pins together while
pressing the side plates with pliers.

 

[Peter Cole]

[email protected] wrote:
>> It helps if you take the tension of the chain, by eg. making a small
>> "U" on the chain where the link sits.
>
> We are tool making animals. Never miss the chance.
>
> I took a six inch length of coat hanger wire and bent slight hooks at
> both ends. When I want to remove chain, I position the connecting
> link roughly in the middle of the bottom run. From the top of the
> chain I set one of the hooks into a link about three inches to one
> side of the connecting link. Then drawing in some slack, I set the
> other hook an equal distance on the other side of the connecting
> link. This creates and holds the "U" which makes it much easier to
> work on the connecting link. It also has the benefit of holding the
> chain in place even after the link has been removed. No slick chain
> slipping through your fingers running off of the chainrings or
> cassette as you try not to drop the link halves. It's perhaps even
> more useful holding the chain in position when installing the link.
>
> It took all of one minute to fabricate the tool and it takes five
> seconds to use it. The problem is, it doesn't look very
> professional. I wonder if I can convince Park to produce a stainless
> version with a rubberized grip?
>
> Pat Clancy

I've seen these in some multi-tool kits. I used to use a paper clip, now
I just derail the chain.

 

[Tom Kunich]

"Ben C" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On 2008-06-22, Tom Kunich <cyclintom@yahoo> wrote:
>> It's a pain in the butt Davey. You have to keep teasing it and eventually
>> it
>> will open up. I turn the chain so that the master link is horizontal and
>> the
>> two end links are vertical falling away. I then use a pair of plain
>> combination pliers over the edges of the link to push each side in the
>> correct direction to open the link. Eventually it opens this way but
>> until
>> it opens you wonder if it ever will.
>
> There's a knack to it. I used to find them very hard to undo and reached
> for the pliers on a couple of occasions, but now I can just pop them off
> by hand in seconds.

I can as well AFTER I've opened them a couple of times. But that also means
that it is getting loose. And for the record I have had one come undone
while riding. I sometimes carry a spare masterlink in case now.

 

[[email protected]]

Let me add to this description...

> These links work ideally in a clean demonstration but once used, the
> clearance between side plate and inner link becomes contaminated
> with road grit so that the link cannot be squeezed together enough
> for its pin ends to disengage their retention recesses. These links
> must be pressed together laterally for separation.

> For this reason pliers are must be used (lengthwise) diagonally
> pressing against the side plates at the fixed ends of their pins to
> both presses the plates against the inner links and to push in the
> direction of disengagement. This means that otherwise chain
> separation on-the-road is impractical.

> Ideally the link needs a thorough solvent cleaning to make it once
> more separate like a new link. True grit is where it's at!

I take the chain off the chainring so it is entirely slack while
performing these operations. As I mentioned, the side plates must be
pushed together taking up lateral operating clearance of the chain for
the link pins to disengage from their retention recesses. If that
operating clearance is contaminated, it doesn't allow enough movement
to release the pins from retention.

To put this into perspective, I reported a failure to remain closed
for these links here on wreck.bike while back.

I put on a new chain using the manually separable link and rode to
work without giving my worn sprockets any attention. While climbing a
short rise in a 13t sprocket, the chain skipped exactly at the moment
the master link was approaching engagement.

Inertial compression when the chain re-engaged the sprocket,
disengaged the master link, allowing the chain fall to the road. I
walked back to the place where this occurred, found the link halves
and re-installed the chain and continued riding. I rode that chain
for many miles after that and installed new 13t & 15t sprockets to
prevent chain skip.

I'm sure archivists can find that report.

Jobst Brandt

 

[Peter Cole]

Tosspot wrote:
> Davy wrote:
>> My cycle has a SRAM chain with a removable link. Can anyone advise on
>> how to remove the link?
>
> There are those that can, and those that can't.
>
> Those that can: Squeeze the plates and push the ends together.
>
> Those that can't: Squeeze the plates and push the ends together, chain
> slips and covers user in muck

There's been a wide variation, in my experience, of how difficult a
particular quick link may be to open. You might assume it's a matter of
mechanical aptitude, but perhaps you just haven't encountered a tough
one. I've had one or two that wouldn't even close when brand new and clean.

 

[Tosspot]

Peter Cole wrote:
> Tosspot wrote:
>> Davy wrote:
>>> My cycle has a SRAM chain with a removable link. Can anyone advise on
>>> how to remove the link?
>>
>> There are those that can, and those that can't.
>>
>> Those that can: Squeeze the plates and push the ends together.
>>
>> Those that can't: Squeeze the plates and push the ends together, chain
>> slips and covers user in muck
>
> There's been a wide variation, in my experience, of how difficult a
> particular quick link may be to open. You might assume it's a matter of
> mechanical aptitude, but perhaps you just haven't encountered a tough
> one. I've had one or two that wouldn't even close when brand new and clean.

And there was me thinking they were the work of Satan. I must say, when
they come apart they are brilliant, but I've now gone down the route of
a nice chain tool, which fixes most things, and a powerlink in the
saddle bag for emergencies.

 

[Chalo]

jim beam wrote:
>
> Davy wrote:
> >
> > My cycle has a SRAM chain with a removable link. Can
> > anyone advise on how to remove the link?
>
> squeeze the plates together, then push the two rivets as if to compress
> the chain lengthwise.

Add a little sticky grit and that doesn't do the trick. I use the
method Tom Kunich describes, though I worked it out for myself by
trial and error.

Chalo

 

[Gary Young]

On Mon, 23 Jun 2008 05:03:16 -0700, siodad wrote:

>> It helps if you take the tension of the chain, by eg. making a small
>> "U" on the chain where the link sits.
>
> We are tool making animals. Never miss the chance.
>
> I took a six inch length of coat hanger wire and bent slight hooks at
> both ends. When I want to remove chain, I position the connecting link
> roughly in the middle of the bottom run. From the top of the chain I
> set one of the hooks into a link about three inches to one side of the
> connecting link. Then drawing in some slack, I set the other hook an
> equal distance on the other side of the connecting link. This creates
> and holds the "U" which makes it much easier to work on the connecting
> link. It also has the benefit of holding the chain in place even after
> the link has been removed. No slick chain slipping through your fingers
> running off of the chainrings or cassette as you try not to drop the
> link halves. It's perhaps even more useful holding the chain in
> position when installing the link.
>
> It took all of one minute to fabricate the tool and it takes five
> seconds to use it. The problem is, it doesn't look very professional.
> I wonder if I can convince Park to produce a stainless version with a
> rubberized grip?
>
> Pat Clancy

Not stainless, and the donut that holds the spring is plastic, not
rubber, but this tool is cheap and effective:

<http://biketoolsetc.com/index.cgi?
id=275094845951&d=single&c=Tools&sc=Chain&tc=Chain-
Compressor&item_id=YC-207>

or

http://tinyurl.com/3t3j3j

 

[Tom Kunich]

"Chalo" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:daf5e1d3-361b-46f1-8f6a-955de0d9cdb3@r66g2000hsg.googlegroups.com...
> jim beam wrote:
>> Davy wrote:
>> > My cycle has a SRAM chain with a removable link. Can
>> > anyone advise on how to remove the link?
>>
>> squeeze the plates together, then push the two rivets as if to compress
>> the chain lengthwise.
>
> Add a little sticky grit and that doesn't do the trick. I use the
> method Tom Kunich describes, though I worked it out for myself by
> trial and error.

And that's the way I worked it out as well. I wonder about the pretense that
these links don't have a great deal of variation between them. Some fit
right together while others require you to pedal them pretty hard before
they snap into proper alignment. Same for coming apart.

 

[Booker Bense]

In article <[email protected]>,
<[email protected]> wrote:
>These links work ideally in a clean demonstration but once used, the
>clearance between side plate and inner link becomes contaminated with
>road grit so that the link cannot be squeezed together enough for its
>pin ends to disengage their retention recesses. These links must be
>pressed together laterally for separation.
>
>For this reason pliers are must be used (lengthwise) diagonally
>pressing against the side plates at the fixed ends of their pins to
>both presses the plates against the inner links and to push in the
>direction of disengagement. This means that otherwise chain
>separation on-the-road is impractical.
>
>Ideally the link needs a thorough solvent cleaning to make it once
>more separate like a new link. True grit is where it's at!
>
>Jobst Brandt


You are completely wrong on this one. There is a trick, once
learned every 9spd SRAM link will easily come apart with just
your hands. You've convinced yourself that the hard way is the
only way.

I can't really explain the trick well, but basically get the
chain loose, make a Z with the link as the slash on the Z
and apply a "shearing squeeze" to the links. ( Smear the link,
not squeeze it.)

It took me more than a few tries to get this, but once mastered
it's worked with every 9sp SRAM chain I've used over the last
6 years.

_ Booker C. Bense

 

[Tom Kunich]

"Booker Bense" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> In article <[email protected]>,
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>>These links work ideally in a clean demonstration but once used, the
>>clearance between side plate and inner link becomes contaminated with
>>road grit so that the link cannot be squeezed together enough for its
>>pin ends to disengage their retention recesses. These links must be
>>pressed together laterally for separation.
>>
>>For this reason pliers are must be used (lengthwise) diagonally
>>pressing against the side plates at the fixed ends of their pins to
>>both presses the plates against the inner links and to push in the
>>direction of disengagement. This means that otherwise chain
>>separation on-the-road is impractical.
>>
>>Ideally the link needs a thorough solvent cleaning to make it once
>>more separate like a new link. True grit is where it's at!
>
> You are completely wrong on this one. There is a trick, once
> learned every 9spd SRAM link will easily come apart with just
> your hands. You've convinced yourself that the hard way is the
> only way.
>
> I can't really explain the trick well, but basically get the
> chain loose, make a Z with the link as the slash on the Z
> and apply a "shearing squeeze" to the links. ( Smear the link,
> not squeeze it.)
>
> It took me more than a few tries to get this, but once mastered
> it's worked with every 9sp SRAM chain I've used over the last
> 6 years.

Just so it's plain - today while climbing the local hill road I do most
Tuesdays, my chain popped apart at the link. I found the missing end and it
was VERY hard to get the link to go together since it was somewhat gritty.
Finally I got it together and we completed the ride.

After getting it home I attempted to pull and clean the chain. The master
link would NOT come apart until I used a pair of pliers on it. The pliers
pushed in and together at the same time since I had it zigged across the
link.

I have built racing motors for cars and motorcycles. I was a professional
AMA mechanic and we won races with some national numbers riding our
motorcycles. I met and talked with a lot of really important mechanics such
as Tom Sifton, Jack London (the stock car/midget mechanic/sponsor not the
author) and people of their stature.

I have whittled my collection of bikes down from 16 to about 10 right now. I
build all of my own bikes save twice when I felt really flush. I've been a
mechanic since early childhood. I'm now in my 60's.

Listening to people like you making the claim that somehow I don't know what
I'm doing and you can tell me what to do from a distance is pretty funny.

 

[jim beam]

Booker Bense wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>> These links work ideally in a clean demonstration but once used, the
>> clearance between side plate and inner link becomes contaminated with
>> road grit so that the link cannot be squeezed together enough for its
>> pin ends to disengage their retention recesses. These links must be
>> pressed together laterally for separation.
>>
>> For this reason pliers are must be used (lengthwise) diagonally
>> pressing against the side plates at the fixed ends of their pins to
>> both presses the plates against the inner links and to push in the
>> direction of disengagement. This means that otherwise chain
>> separation on-the-road is impractical.
>>
>> Ideally the link needs a thorough solvent cleaning to make it once
>> more separate like a new link. True grit is where it's at!
>>
>> Jobst Brandt
>
>
> You are completely wrong on this one. There is a trick, once
> learned every 9spd SRAM link will easily come apart with just
> your hands. You've convinced yourself that the hard way is the
> only way.
>
> I can't really explain the trick well, but basically get the
> chain loose, make a Z with the link as the slash on the Z
> and apply a "shearing squeeze" to the links. ( Smear the link,
> not squeeze it.)
>
> It took me more than a few tries to get this, but once mastered
> it's worked with every 9sp SRAM chain I've used over the last
> 6 years.
>

jeepers dude, this is a ****-fest - attempted enlightenment of the
heathen is not welcome. stand in like to complain and swear it's
impossible like all the rest can'tcha?

 

[Kenny]

I've been using the SRAM powerlinks for about 7 years. I always remove
the chain for cleaning. I've tried all the removal methods mentioned
here except the one that mentions using WD 40 to remove grit first. In
my personal experience there is a 20% chance that I will not be able
to remove the link by simply squeezing the ends toward each other.
Just last week I wanted to replace my old chain but couldn't get the
powerlink to disengage. I struggled with it for about 10 minutes
before I finally surrendered and reached for the chain tool. In
retrospect I'd say the powerlink was packed with grit as I hadn't
cleaned the chain in about a year. But anyway, most of the time the
powerlink works as advertised but if I were going to rely on it coming
apart easily by hand in the field... I don't know If I'd leave home
without the trusty chain tool.

 

[Duncan]

"Davy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> My cycle has a SRAM chain with a removable link. Can
> anyone advise on how to remove the link?
> Davy

I used to use pliers but now I can get a 9-speed SRAM link removed quickly
and reliably by hand every time.
The trick is to place a thumb and finger over the plates where the pin is
permanently attached. Push gently together while bending the chain side to
side as far as it goes. This action pushes any grit away and loosens the
pin.
I think high end SRAM chains are rubbish but their joining link is the best.
I use them with my XTR / Dura Ace chains but their pins wear much quicker
than the other links so they always need to be replaced with the chain.