wineandkeyz said:.. I don't have a repair stand, so the bike was resting on the floor with both wheels on the ground. ..I had put so much downward pressure on the back wheel that I needed to take it to the LBS to have it trued.
With a good pipe wrench basically the force you use for turning ALSO goes into increasing pinch force. Slip an extender on and pinch force will increase accordingly - the harder you torque the harder you pinch. Not quite so with a vise grip.MTB WVA said:I think vise grips would be your best bet, it will take a lot of force to get them on tight enough, but it should work.
stevecoh1 said:Correct, the bike in question is 13 years old and there's no carbon in it. The cranks are aluminum. My NEW bike is carbon but there's no pedal problem there.
Well 13 years is a long time you sure the pedal was not welded/brazed!!!!!!
stevecoh1 said:I recently bought a new bike and for the first time use clipless pedals. But this bike is my "show horse". I am keeping my older road bike for commuting, my "work horse". I've always used toe clips on this bike but now I'd like to convert it to clipless pedals. I ordered some, along with the biggest, most expensive pedal wrench Performance sells, and find I can't remove the old pedals. There's no way to get enough force on the pedals to remove them. I tried wd40 and I do know that the left pedal is threaded in reverse but I just can't budge the damned thing.
Has anyone experienced this and what is the solution?
This is how I would do it.meehs said:At this point I'd remove the pedal body, clamp the pedal spindle in a vice and turn the crank-arm itself. A long pipe over the crank-arm may be required if it's as stuck as it sounds like it is. Ummmm.... after pulling the crank from the bike of course.
Well, success! At last. I didn't have to pull the crank from the bike - how do you do THAT by the way??? - but I did have to destroy the right pedal. Got everything off, ball bearings out and after much pipewrenching and a little more heat, it budged. Nothing seemed damaged, was able to put the new pedals in without much difficulty.meehs said:At this point I'd remove the pedal body, clamp the pedal spindle in a vice and turn the crank-arm itself. A long pipe over the crank-arm may be required if it's as stuck as it sounds like it is. Ummmm.... after pulling the crank from the bike of course.
Of course it does and a little cussing also helps if it is a very stubborn pedal.Originally Posted by stancho .
Heat works!!! I was trying to replace the pedals on my 4 year old MTB. They were quite stuck and the nuts were starting to get rounded. I was thinking of buying a new bigger wrench and then I saw this thread. Took out the propane torch and heated for about a minute the pedal axles (at the back of each crank arm). The pedals couldn't have come off easier.
There's a few ways to go about this one.Originally Posted by stevecoh1 .
I recently bought a new bike and for the first time use clipless pedals. But this bike is my "show horse". I am keeping my older road bike for commuting, my "work horse". I've always used toe clips on this bike but now I'd like to convert it to clipless pedals. I ordered some, along with the biggest, most expensive pedal wrench Performance sells, and find I can't remove the old pedals. There's no way to get enough force on the pedals to remove them. I tried wd40 and I do know that the left pedal is threaded in reverse but I just can't budge the damned thing.
Has anyone experienced this and what is the solution?
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