How Well Does Your Road Bike Fit?



new_rider

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Jan 22, 2010
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My budget only allows for a non custom frame, which is probably true for 98-99% of all bike riders. So, some compromises here and there are necessary.

How well does your (non custom) bike fit you?

My previous road bike was about 3 cm too short in the top tube/stem combination.

I barely had an inch of standover clearance, and I would've preferred more.

The dimensions were close enough, but not exactly ideal. What about your current setup?
 
new_rider said:
My budget only allows for a non custom frame, which is probably true for 98-99% of all bike riders. So, some compromises here and there are necessary.

How well does your (non custom) bike fit you?

My previous road bike was about 3 cm too short in the top tube/stem combination.

I barely had an inch of standover clearance, and I would've preferred more.

The dimensions were close enough, but not exactly ideal. What about your current setup?

That's a good question. I am always playing with my position. Up, down, forward, back..Some days it feels perfect but the next ride, not so much!!:confused:
 
new_rider said:
My budget only allows for a non custom frame, which is probably true for 98-99% of all bike riders. So, some compromises here and there are necessary.

How well does your (non custom) bike fit you?

My previous road bike was about 3 cm too short in the top tube/stem combination.

I barely had an inch of standover clearance, and I would've preferred more.

The dimensions were close enough, but not exactly ideal. What about your current setup?

This post makes me wonder ........

How much do you think a custom frame costs?
 
They range from several hundred dollars to the high thousands. Most people wrongly assume that they're all expensive.
 
alienator said:
They range from several hundred dollars to the high thousands. Most people wrongly assume that they're all expensive.

You took all the fun out of it .........

I am always amazed at these "I can't afford a custom" comments from people who then go buy a factory frame for twice the price of a custom.
 
I might have asked before: who are some custom builders that can build a frame for under $1K?

alienator said:
They range from several hundred dollars to the high thousands. Most people wrongly assume that they're all expensive.
 
new_rider said:
I might have asked before: who are some custom builders that can build a frame for under $1K?

I don't have a list on hand, but they're out there. Check out the North American Handmade Bicycle Show. Their site has a list of custom builders. Also, I think Bicycling recently had a list of custom builders.
 
new_rider said:
I might have asked before: who are some custom builders that can build a frame for under $1K?
I think HABANERO will cobble together a semi-custom frame for around $1000 ...

BUT, I think that you are too concerned with your bike's standover height.

Well into the 70s, the typical, total seat post length was only about 180mm. After you subtract the amount of the post which needs to be inserted, you can see that the typical seatpost exposure was less than on today's bikes which may still have horizontal top tubes. The current crop of bikes with sloping top tubes often have even more seat post exposure (or, equivalent if the frame has a mast) & a lower standover height.

The first bike which I was sold by a bike shop was a 60cm Gitane (I'm 5'9") & it had a 57cm top tube + 90mm stem. I didn't think it was too large ... I always rode with my hands on the drops ... it never occurred to me that leaning the bike was a problem when I stopped.

When I cobbled together a bike from parts, I chose a 57cm frame because it had the same length top tube as the Gitane's. I still leaned the bike when I stopped.

My favorite bike was a 52cm Peugeot (I just sold the frame this past Summer) ... the top tube was ~54.5cm long, and I used a 120mm stem to achieve approximately the same fit as with the frames which have 57cm top tubes.

N.B. Where and how you mount the brake levers AND the handlebars, themselves, will also affect the reach.

Regardless of the frame size, I set up my bikes so the distance from the back edge of the saddle (an arbitrary point from which to measure) to the rear of the hoods (another arbitrary point) is close to the same AFTER I have established the position of the saddle relative to the cranks.

Because my aesthetic sensibilities are different than they once were, my current preference is for a frame whose top tube is in the 54cm-to-55cm range and whose seat post has more exposure than it did 30+ years ago ... and, the only reason that I'm not riding the 57cm frame (a FUJI), is because I took it apart to touch up some of the scratches in the paint + to update the components but just never got back to re-assembling it.

My smallest frame has a 53cm top tube and a 130mm Cinelli quill stem to achieve the fore mentioned fit.
 
I recommend that you go to a Pro Level bike shop that can do a fit kit on the bike you would like to buy. If you can find a shop that can to the RETUL fitting you will get a bike that will be an exact fit. I had one done on my bike and the tech made major adjustments that will help me tremendously.

 
Yeah, I checked for listings of custom builders and there are actually quite a few of them! The custom market seems to be quite strong, based upon the extensive list/s I saw of custom builders. The prices are quite reasonable for those who listed approximate frame prices, also.

It would probably cost about $2K for a 105 bike, or a bit less than that for a Tiagra bike.

That's probably a bit more than I would like to spend at this point. Something in the price range of a Trek 2.1 would be more realistic right now.

I've asked about the fit kit, and at least one local shop says it is no longer effective with the sloping top tube bikes of today. It sounds like an excuse, since it should be pretty easy to use the effective rather than actual top tube as the 'true' figure in calculating reach, while just ignoring frame size altogether (however it's measured), as long as there is some standover clearance.

This shop also gave me some (probably) bogus information about stem swapping not being possible since it would void a bike warranty.
 
new_rider said:
I've asked about the fit kit, and at least one local shop says it is no longer effective with the sloping top tube bikes of today. It sounds like an excuse, since it should be pretty easy to use the effective rather than actual top tube as the 'true' figure in calculating reach, while just ignoring frame size altogether (however it's measured), as long as there is some standover clearance.

This shop also gave me some (probably) bogus information about stem swapping not being possible since it would void a bike warranty.

Swapping stems will absolutely not void a bike warranty.

As for the Fit Kit, I haven't seen it in a long time. I was fitted with something called a Fit Kit 20 or so years ago, but I don't remember the details. So I can't say whether it would work with a sloping tube or not. In any event, a fit doesn't have to be done with the Fit Kit. There are all sorts of devices and philosophies on fit: Serotta's, Cyfac's, Retul, and etc. Ideally they would all accomplish the same thing, albeit from different starting points. The most important thing about fits is to realize that a fit is a starting point. A good fit will get you really close to what's ideal for you (maybe it'll do it exactly). It's likely, though, some time after a fit, that you might need to make small adjustments.
 
That statement about stem swapping is the biggest load of **** I have ever heard. If you look at the pics on my blog getting the Retul fitting you will see a wall of stems. Swappable stems are the best part of bikes over the last 10 to 15 years. They make a huge difference. I bet if you ask him if you put a different seat on the bike it voids the warranty too.. What a Di----K

If you are looking for a $2K bike like a Trek they will do a simple fit kit to make sure you get the right size and stem length. The Sloping top tube has made it a little harder to measure bikes over the last couple of years. They call it virtual size .. There are other names but basically means the same. The best thing is to find a shop that has hard core racers and riders that buy bikes there. Not some Kmart or Wallmart style bike shop. Plus if they are a Trek authorized dealer they will make sure you get the right bike. When you deal with a shop that sells to racers and riders they will make sure it fits you properly.
 
FWIW, fitting a bike with a sloping top tube is just as easy as fitting a bike with a horizontal top tube. In the process of fitting, the top tube doesn't have to be measured. The dimensions for virtual top tube are given by the manufacturer. If the dimensions vary by a millimeter or two, that's no big deal.
 
I know, I've dealt with that bike shop in the past, mainly to look at and road test bikes since their selection, by local standards, is pretty good. But I've never bought a bike from them, mainly as you can see, because they're full of bs.

But yeah, there are other local shops which have offered to set me up with a basic fitting, so I can get the right sized rig. It's all a matter of fine tuning.

2UpDuc said:
That statement about stem swapping is the biggest load of **** I have ever heard. If you look at the pics on my blog getting the Retul fitting you will see a wall of stems. Swappable stems are the best part of bikes over the last 10 to 15 years. They make a huge difference. I bet if you ask him if you put a different seat on the bike it voids the warranty too.. What a Di----K

If you are looking for a $2K bike like a Trek they will do a simple fit kit to make sure you get the right size and stem length. The Sloping top tube has made it a little harder to measure bikes over the last couple of years. They call it virtual size .. There are other names but basically means the same. The best thing is to find a shop that has hard core racers and riders that buy bikes there. Not some Kmart or Wallmart style bike shop. Plus if they are a Trek authorized dealer they will make sure you get the right bike. When you deal with a shop that sells to racers and riders they will make sure it fits you properly.
 
new_rider said:
My budget only allows for a non custom frame, which is probably true for 98-99% of all bike riders. So, some compromises here and there are necessary.

How well does your (non custom) bike fit you?

My previous road bike was about 3 cm too short in the top tube/stem combination.

I barely had an inch of standover clearance, and I would've preferred more.

The dimensions were close enough, but not exactly ideal. What about your current setup?

I'd try starting off with the right sized frame and taking it from there... It almost sounds you have the legs of a mouse and the arms of an ape.
 
My road bike fits me pretty darn well...I guess. I mean, I was fitted by one of the most respected pro fitters in the area, and all he had to change were the bars & the stem, and he moved my saddle a bit. Feels pretty dialed in now

...not that it didn't before. See, that's the thing, unless you're conspicuously uncomfortable on your bike, how can you even tell it doesn't fit? My backup bike has a shorter top tube, shorter seat tube, steeper STA, shorter cranks, shorter stem, and greater rake than the one that the pro fitter tweaked...but it doesn't feel markedly less comfortable when I ride it, it just feels a little different.

Meh. What was the question?
 
My Road bike fits me just fine... But its a little big for other people considering it has 27" parts, frame, rims, etc. 27" bikes are rare nowadays.
 
My M/L Giant TCR fits fine. I'm not wildly crazy about the handlebar, but I haven't found a suitable replacement yet.
 

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