looks like the burnish adjustment is critical for the first use hub.
Camp and Ultegra needing a really fine hand from their ultra machining
and polishing-from what i hear.
Ok,let's move away from using the bearing bump bump bump as a model
and go for-
FEELING THE BEARINGS REVOLVE ON THE CONE AND HUB SURFACES but not
rotating the wheel and not feeling the bearings on the
surfaces-that's too loose, gives axle play.
To augment the feeling the bearings on the surface comes the local
master mechanic idea of using a stethoscope, a pipe, and feeling the
bearings revolve.
Also usable is your head. Place the forehead on the axle or frame.
Rumble rumble.
Seems a lot of work goes into the Q/R problem.
I tour so both axles are solid-the longest Wheels Mfg axle on the rear
and a Wheels 9mm solid "track" axle on the front. How one Tour's
using a Q/R idunno as the Q/R's bend right off.
The falling weight using the wheels imbalance at nipple or rim joint
sounds like an excellent idea for used or worn hubs. I cannot recall
getting anywhere near that tight where the wheel is actually in a
stationary position without bearing bump bump bump or rumble and bump.
Are you adjusting a worn hub assembly? That's eccentric not round
then adjusting the cones at the assembly's narrowest dimension? The
rotation would then come to probable stop at the ellipsis's wider
dimension then fall thru the imbalanced weight going toward the
circumference bottom?
That's good used hub adjustment!! Use the head or scope.
The "breaking it in" idea-slowly off course-produces a groove in
the newly round assembly then the bearings, mil spec grade 25 ( I
assume there are inexpensive grade 25) then the bearings stay there for
a while continuing wearing in a more or less round orbit: that's
pre-load, right?
But if yawl start off in a loose fit where the axle wiggle then the
assembly immediately wears elliptically with one short side one long
side and every time the bearings wander over onto the long side the
wear factor grows-exponentially?
Choose one.
Leads to the idea that maybe yawl should replace the break in bearings
with new ones but then I have doubts about getting the new replacements
into the old groove and keeping them there with a new adjustment.
Sounds like one for U. of Mich. Engineering or Stamford. Looks like mil
spec 25.
A tricky try is cleaning the axle's threads adjacent the cone nut
(pick a side and loosen that one? Or figure what Barnett is telling you
about sequential side tightening)), flood threads with green seep in
between locktite, backing off the new hub nut and cone, to the feel the
revolutions and leter set up. Now, to convince Shimano to save $$ by
reducing the locktite strength on the uh right side.
The idea of shoving the axle nuts from one side to the other, the other
side ditto seems essential for deore rear hubs after using OLD
freewheel hubs. Some repacks DO NOT TIGHTEN THE OTHER NON-DRIVE SIDE.
The non-drive side needs forceful setting and spinning, like drive side
up, before and during the drive side cone adjustment.
