FasterthanU said:
The cassette and chain are 8-speed. The cassette has less than 1000 miles on it and does not look suspect. Besides, I did not have this problem with the old chain.
Hm, so the teeth are still looking square on top, not pointy, eh? A while ago, I put a new chain on a cassette that looked only slightly worn to me and didn't slip previously. The new chain slipped a couple times when I was really pushing (luckily, without incident). The deal is that cassettes and chains wear together, to the extent that a really worn cassette with a "stretched" chain can work fine, but replacing just one or the other can result in some dangerous (not just annoying) slipping.
FasterthanU said:
The only other thing I changed was upgrading the crankset to Dura-ace. In the auction the person said it was an 8-speed but with the chain on, the rings turn out to be 9-speed. I wouldn't think this as the cause of the problem.
At the risk of asking a stupid question (since you seem to know what you're doing), did you remember to measure out your new chain to match the new crankset? I'm wondering if the chain tension is off, if the new chainrings are a different size.
FasterthanU said:
Oh yes, I am also convinced that hyperglide isn't worth the proclaimed benefits. I didn't think closely about the hassle of having to use a new pin EVERY TIME you take the chain apart!!!
Yeah, I was pretty ****** when I learned this is the recommended procedure. I guess some Hyperglide chains have a special pin that's supposed to be okay to re-insert (rather than replace altogether), but I just decided not to deal with any of that.
Even with what I thought was good advice from the Park Tools and Sheldon Brown sites, it took me lots of practice to get rear derailleur adjustment down, especially since what works on the stand doesn't always work on the road (as you've observed). Good luck, and while you're at it, maybe clean and lube those cables and housings! Oh, and consider some Loctite on those derailleur limit screws.