I can't get my brake in!

Discussion in 'Cycling Equipment' started by Wayne Pein, Oct 8, 2003.

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  1. Wayne Pein

    Wayne Pein Guest

    I have a new Kestrel EMS OS fork and new 2003 Chorus brake caliper.

    The brake bolt is threaded except for about 1/4 inch just before the calipers. I can't get this last
    1/4 inch of unthreaded brake bolt into the hole in the fork. The hole is too tight. The long brake
    bolt will not reach the threads so that I can pull this last bit in. I've tried squeezing the brake
    bolt in with a Quick Grip clamp that can exert considerable force, but it won't go.

    I've emailed Kesrel and am awaiting advice. Any help here?

    Wayne
     
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  2. In article <[email protected]>, Wayne Pein <[email protected]> wrote:
    >I have a new Kestrel EMS OS fork and new 2003 Chorus brake caliper.
    >
    >The brake bolt is threaded except for about 1/4 inch just before the calipers. I can't get this
    >last 1/4 inch of unthreaded brake bolt into the hole in the fork. The hole is too tight. The long
    >brake bolt will not reach the threads so that I can pull this last bit in. I've tried squeezing the
    >brake bolt in with a Quick Grip clamp that can exert considerable force, but it won't go.
    >
    >I've emailed Kesrel and am awaiting advice. Any help here?

    Well it's an obvious defect and since the fork is new asking the mfr for input is the correct
    solution (rather than possibly voiding the warranty by reaming it out).

    There would be no problem reaming or drilling it a hair but you may as well wait to hear back.
    Probably there is just some excessive gel coat in the hole. I imagine Kestrel will tell you to
    enlarge the hole.
     
  3. Quoth Wayne Pein:
    > I have a new Kestrel EMS OS fork and new 2003 Chorus brake caliper.
    >
    > The brake bolt is threaded except for about 1/4 inch just before the calipers. I can't get this
    > last 1/4 inch of unthreaded brake bolt into the hole in the fork. The hole is too tight. The long
    > brake bolt will not reach the threads so that I can pull this last bit in. I've tried squeezing
    > the brake bolt in with a Quick Grip clamp that can exert considerable force, but it won't go.
    >
    > I've emailed Kesrel and am awaiting advice. Any help here?

    You need to drill it out to the proper size. Use either a 6 mm or 1/4" bit.

    If you have a tapered reamer, that might do the job too.

    Sheldon "That's An Easy One" Brown +-----------------------------------------+
    | A ship in the harbor is safe, but | that is not what ships are built for. | --John A. Shedd |
    +-----------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts Phone
    617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
     
  4. Wayne Pein

    Wayne Pein Guest

    Paul Southworth wrote:

    > In article <[email protected]>, Wayne Pein <[email protected]> wrote:
    > >I have a new Kestrel EMS OS fork and new 2003 Chorus brake caliper.
    > >
    > >The brake bolt is threaded except for about 1/4 inch just before the calipers. I can't get this
    > >last 1/4 inch of unthreaded brake bolt into the hole in the fork. The hole is too tight. The long
    > >brake bolt will not reach the threads so that I can pull this last bit in. I've tried squeezing
    > >the brake bolt in with a Quick Grip clamp that can exert considerable force, but it won't go.
    > >
    > >I've emailed Kesrel and am awaiting advice. Any help here?
    >
    > Well it's an obvious defect and since the fork is new asking the mfr for input is the correct
    > solution (rather than possibly voiding the warranty by reaming it out).
    >
    > There would be no problem reaming or drilling it a hair but you may as well wait to hear back.
    > Probably there is just some excessive gel coat in the hole. I imagine Kestrel will tell you to
    > enlarge the hole.

    What is gel coat? The hole is through a bonded in steel insert in the carbon fiber fork.

    Wayne
     
  5. Wayne Pein

    Wayne Pein Guest

    Sheldon Brown wrote:

    > Quoth Wayne Pein:
    > > I have a new Kestrel EMS OS fork and new 2003 Chorus brake caliper.
    > >
    > > The brake bolt is threaded except for about 1/4 inch just before the calipers. I can't get this
    > > last 1/4 inch of unthreaded brake bolt into the hole in the fork. The hole is too tight. The
    > > long brake bolt will not reach the threads so that I can pull this last bit in. I've tried
    > > squeezing the brake bolt in with a Quick Grip clamp that can exert considerable force, but it
    > > won't go.
    > >
    > > I've emailed Kesrel and am awaiting advice. Any help here?
    >
    > You need to drill it out to the proper size. Use either a 6 mm or 1/4" bit.
    >
    > If you have a tapered reamer, that might do the job too.
    >
    > Sheldon "That's An Easy One" Brown

    In typical fashion, I just did it the "hard" way. I disassembled the brake to expose the outboard
    end of the brake bolt and then pressed it in with a C clamp. I suppose when I need to get it out
    I'll be beating it out from the backside.

    Wayne
     
  6. Rick Onanian

    Rick Onanian Guest

    On Wed, 08 Oct 2003 16:40:48 GMT, Wayne Pein <[email protected]> wrote:
    >The brake bolt is threaded except for about 1/4 inch just before the calipers. I can't get this
    >last 1/4 inch of unthreaded brake bolt into the hole in the fork. The hole is too tight. The long
    >brake bolt will not reach the threads so that I can pull this last bit in. I've tried squeezing the
    >brake bolt in with a Quick Grip clamp that can exert considerable force, but it won't go.
    >
    >I've emailed Kesrel and am awaiting advice. Any help here?

    There may be something I'm missing here, but wouldn't it just make sense to go to the hardware store
    / home depot and buy a similar bolt that's threaded all the way?

    Failing that, you could drill out the hole slightly larger or grind the bolt, but I'd be afraid to
    do that when front brakes are involved; aside from removing material making the item less strong,
    you also heat it in the process, which I understand can effect the strength. Additionally, it's hard
    to do perfectly, and imperfection has no place in front brakes on my bikes.

    >Wayne
    --
    Rick Onanian
     
  7. Rick Onanian

    Rick Onanian Guest

    On Wed, 08 Oct 2003 17:58:22 GMT, Wayne Pein <[email protected]> wrote:
    >In typical fashion, I just did it the "hard" way. I disassembled the brake to expose the outboard
    >end of the brake bolt and then pressed it in with a C clamp. I suppose when I need to get it out
    >I'll be beating it out from the backside.

    Personally, I think you're better off that way than drilling out the hole; though buying a bolt
    that's threaded all the way would be the perfect solution.

    >Wayne
    --
    Rick Onanian
     
  8. Wayne Pein wrote:
    >
    >>The brake bolt is threaded except for about 1/4 inch just before the calipers. I can't get this
    >>last 1/4 inch of unthreaded brake bolt into the hole in the fork. The hole is too tight. The long
    >>brake bolt will not reach the threads so that I can pull this last bit in. I've tried squeezing
    >>the brake bolt in with a Quick Grip clamp that can exert considerable force, but it won't go.
    >>
    >>I've emailed Kesrel and am awaiting advice. Any help here?

    Someone trying to be helpful suggested:

    > There may be something I'm missing here, but wouldn't it just make sense to go to the hardware
    > store / home depot and buy a similar bolt that's threaded all the way?

    That would be a wild goose chase for sure.

    Hardware stores don't carry bicycle parts. The center bolt of any caliper brake is a highly
    specialized part, generally with a special shaped head, and with a stepped thread, thicker where you
    can't see it without disassembling the caliper.

    Typical U.S. hardware stores would be stumped just by the visible 6 mm thread--most have no clue
    about even the simplest metric fasteners.

    > Failing that, you could drill out the hole slightly larger

    Right, that's the correct solution, which Kestrel meant to do but evidently forgot.

    Sheldon "Nobody's Perfect" Brown +-----------------------------------------------------+
    | Life is the art of drawing sufficient conclusions | from insufficient premises. --Samuel Butler |
    +-----------------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
     
  9. A Muzi

    A Muzi Guest

    Wayne Pein wrote:

    > I have a new Kestrel EMS OS fork and new 2003 Chorus brake caliper.
    >
    > The brake bolt is threaded except for about 1/4 inch just before the calipers. I can't get this
    > last 1/4 inch of unthreaded brake bolt into the hole in the fork. The hole is too tight. The long
    > brake bolt will not reach the threads so that I can pull this last bit in. I've tried squeezing
    > the brake bolt in with a Quick Grip clamp that can exert considerable force, but it won't go.
    >
    > I've emailed Kesrel and am awaiting advice. Any help here?
    >
    > Wayne
    >
    I've seen several Kestrels with tight brake mounting holes this season. Try a long-taper reamer.
    Mine is stamped "#5", five-flute and tapers from 5mm to 6.2mm over 75mm

    --
    Andrew Muzi www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April, 1971
     
  10. Rick Onanian

    Rick Onanian Guest

    On Wed, 08 Oct 2003 17:52:48 -0400, Sheldon Brown <[email protected]> wrote:
    >Someone trying to be helpful suggested:

    That was me.

    >> There may be something I'm missing here, but wouldn't it just make sense to go to the hardware
    >> store / home depot and buy a similar bolt that's threaded all the way?
    >
    >That would be a wild goose chase for sure.
    >
    >Hardware stores don't carry bicycle parts. The center bolt of any caliper brake is a highly
    >specialized part, generally with a special shaped head, and with a stepped thread, thicker where
    >you can't see it without disassembling the caliper.

    That's what I was missing. I imagined it a standard metric bolt.

    >Typical U.S. hardware stores would be stumped just by the visible 6 mm thread--most have no clue
    >about even the simplest metric fasteners.

    I bought metric bolts for SPD cleats when I needed slightly longer bolts, at Home Depot. I didn't
    bother asking anybody, though.

    >> Failing that, you could drill out the hole slightly larger
    >
    >Right, that's the correct solution, which Kestrel meant to do but evidently forgot.

    I'd still be afraid to weaken THAT hole.

    >Sheldon "Nobody's Perfect" Brown

    Especially not the guys at Kestrel! But, OTOH, it appears that you are, which begs the question: Why
    haven't we seen any comments from you on the "Sheldon Brown" thread? :)

    >+-----------------------------------------------------+
    >| Life is the art of drawing sufficient conclusions | from insufficient premises. --Samuel
    >| Butler |
    >+-----------------------------------------------------+

    One of the best taglines I've seen around here.

    Possibly useful when debating helmets and lights...
    --
    Rick Onanian
     
  11. John Rees

    John Rees Guest

    "Sheldon Brown" <[email protected]> wrote in message =
    news:[email protected]...
    | Wayne Pein wrote:
    | >=20
    | Someone trying to be helpful suggested:
    |=20
    | > There may be something I'm missing here, but wouldn't it just make sense to go to the hardware
    | > store / home depot and buy a similar bolt that's threaded all the way?
    |=20
    | That would be a wild goose chase for sure.
    |=20
    | Hardware stores don't carry bicycle parts. The center bolt of any=20 caliper brake is a highly
    | specialized part, generally with a special=20 shaped head, and with a stepped thread, thicker
    | where you can't see it =

    | without disassembling the caliper.
    |=20
    | Typical U.S. hardware stores would be stumped just by the visible 6 mm =

    | thread--most have no clue about even the simplest metric fasteners.

    Not only that, but I'd want that bolt to be a graded bolt. I would not = want a cheap, Home Depot,
    ungraded bolt snap off because I'm really = yanking on the front brake cause a car just pulled out
    in front of me on = a fast descent. That would really suck. I bet the brake retraining = bolt gets a
    lot of stress.

    I think my Chorus brakes had two sizes of bolts with them, maybe I'm = wrong, it's been a while
    since I built up the bike with them.
     
  12. I wrote:

    >>Someone trying to be helpful suggested:

    Rick Onanian wrote:

    > That was me.
    >
    I knew that, but when correcting an error in a well-intentioned posting, I generally avoid specific
    attribution so as to prevent embarrassment.

    >>>Failing that, you could drill out the hole slightly larger
    >>
    >>Right, that's the correct solution, which Kestrel meant to do but evidently forgot.
    >
    > I'd still be afraid to weaken THAT hole.

    Drilling out an accidentally undersized hole to the correct size won't weaken anything.

    In addition, the crown area is the strongest part of the fork.

    I have never seen or heard of a fork breakage that involved the brake mounting hole.

    > Why haven't we seen any comments from you on the "Sheldon Brown" thread? :)

    I actually did, but it doesn't seem to have propogated too well.

    I almost replied to the person who wrote "There's no such thing as a British accent" with the
    observation that there are, in point of fact, _dozens_, if not _hundreds_ of British accents.

    It is indeed following the usual trend of Usenet threads, with digressions about language,
    newsreaders and headers, and will presumably continue until Godwin's Law terminates it...

    Sheldon "Waiting For The Flames" Brown +---------------------------------------------------+
    | Time shouldn't just pass; things should happen. | --Harry Turtledove |
    +---------------------------------------------------+ Harris Cyclery, West Newton, Massachusetts
    Phone 617-244-9772 FAX 617-244-1041 http://harriscyclery.com Hard-to-find parts shipped Worldwide
    http://captainbike.com http://sheldonbrown.com
     
  13. Rick Onanian

    Rick Onanian Guest

    On Thu, 09 Oct 2003 11:31:17 -0400, Sheldon Brown <[email protected]> wrote:
    >I wrote:
    >>>Someone trying to be helpful suggested:
    >Rick Onanian wrote:
    >> That was me.
    >>
    >I knew that, but when correcting an error in a well-intentioned posting, I generally avoid specific
    >attribution so as to prevent embarrassment.

    Thanks. It doesn't make a difference to me; I'm not afraid to be wrong. Hell, I do it all
    the time! :)

    >Drilling out an accidentally undersized hole to the correct size won't weaken anything.

    OIC. I was under the impression that the hole was designed and manufactured correctly, but the issue
    was a minor incompatibility; those situations are certainly common enough.

    >> Why haven't we seen any comments from you on the "Sheldon Brown" thread? :)
    >
    >I actually did, but it doesn't seem to have propogated too well.

    Apparently not. I can't find it on my newsreader or on groups.google.com either.

    >It is indeed following the usual trend of Usenet threads, with digressions about language,
    >newsreaders and headers, and will presumably continue until Godwin's Law terminates it...

    No, here, it will become a helmet thread. <G>

    >Sheldon "Waiting For The Flames" Brown
    --
    Rick "Forgot his lighter" Onanian
     
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