I destroy all things Presta. Another one of my mechanical shortcomings.

Discussion in 'The Bike Cafe' started by MotownBikeBoy, Oct 26, 2013.

  1. MotownBikeBoy

    MotownBikeBoy Active Member

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    Maybe it's like when a relationship ends and someone resorts to "it's not you, it's me". Well, I don't know if it is because I am doing something wrong and don't know it, or if the design of Presta is so,inherently weak, but I seem to blow through inner tubes on a disturbingly regular basis. Often enough that I an now buying them 4 at a time and always carry one on board when I ride. I manage to break off the little central whatever it is called, and that's that. Sooner or later they are toast.
     
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  2. alienator

    alienator Well-Known Member

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    Just be careful putting the pump chuck on.
     
  3. Volnix

    Volnix Well-Known Member

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    Of the 4 total flats I had 2 of them were from the same reason. When I attach-detach the pump on the valve it tears of the valve from the tube. Did not manage to just brake the piston part from the tube yet.

    Some suggestions:

    1. Buy quality tubes. (The best ones I found so far were the Vredestein Race ones. Pre-talced and they seem to fit the pump very well so the pressure indicator does not lose pressure and I can inflate in the correct pressure easily. I bought a couple of "Continental Race" ones lately and allthough they are supposed to be of good quality they dont fit the pump very well and I have to hold them to keep the pressure gauge to keep pressure and get a reading when inflating. Plus they are not seamless and they didnt even have the yellow conti dust caps!!! [​IMG] Both of them, Vredestein and Conti were at 5 euro each. A very cheap unthreaded Kenda is at 3 euro... Worth the extra 2 euros in my opinion).

    2. When installing a new tube be very careful. Cleaning the inner of the tires, inspecting for embedded shards of glass, thorns etc. Clean the rims too... and when you are securing the tube with the metal ring over the rim, dont secure it too tight as this will pull the valve from the tube. Also secure it only after you have inflated the tube.
     
  4. danfoz

    danfoz Well-Known Member

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    I go through relationships like you go through presta valves. Subsequently I have only broken one or two presta valves in 30 years of riding, and one of those I can definitely blame on that overzealous friend of mine, Johnnie Walker, trying to help out.

    Quality innertubes help. Delicate technique helps more. Think stroking a cat, not petting a dog.
     
  5. MotownBikeBoy

    MotownBikeBoy Active Member

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    Mostly been buying genuine Specialized tubes. I tried a couple of Novara (REI house brand) with same results. I am resigned to my fate, alas.
     
  6. alienator

    alienator Well-Known Member

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    What kind of pump are you using?
     
  7. CAMPYBOB

    CAMPYBOB Well-Known Member

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    "I can definitely blame on that overzealous friend of mine, Johnnie Walker, trying to help out."

    I pump alone. Yeah, with nobody else. You know when I pump alone, I prefer to pump by myself.

    Ever have yer good buddy, Weiser, lend a hand?

    I've had cheap tubes split during pump chuck removal, but I can't say I've ever busted more than one core...and that was replaceable. No biggee. E-Z Out for core removal if sheared.

    1. Use Silca
    2. Press chuck on carefully and only as far as needed to create a seal.
    3. Remove chuck while holding valve stem with free hand/two fingers.
    4. Profit?
     
  8. MotownBikeBoy

    MotownBikeBoy Active Member

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    Ah, I use CO2 cylinders. Lazy way, expensive but just easier. It's your basic CO2 inflator unit, picked it up,at LBS. No Johnny or Weiser, I don't drink. I only look like I do. :big-smile:
     
  9. MotownBikeBoy

    MotownBikeBoy Active Member

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    Silica??? What's that about, never heard of using it - like the non-oil based chain lubes?
     
  10. maydog

    maydog Well-Known Member

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    Silca is a brand of pump. I know a guy that has a 30 year old silca that he brings to rides.

    The chuck design on some pumps is better than others. I have broken a few valves with a frame pump, but never with my better floor pump.
     
  11. Volnix

    Volnix Well-Known Member

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    Me neither... [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
  12. mpre53

    mpre53 Well-Known Member

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    Frame pumps with a fixed head can be a problem. One thing: don't ever rock the pump head back and forth to get it off. What I do is, put the valve at either the 9 o'clock or 3 o'clock position on the rim, clear of the frame, to inflate, and when you go to remove the head, palm the tire on either side of the valve, and use your thumb and index finger to give the head a straight push off the valve. I even do this with a floor pump.
     
  13. danfoz

    danfoz Well-Known Member

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    One can also invest in something like the Hirame pump head seen below, attach it to any floor pump, and forget about it. The head also eliminates the possibility of compromising the tube where it connects to the valve as it has an adjustable seal, so it releases freely. If possible I'll never use anything else, especially since my latex innies require daily inflation.The head on the Blackburn it's attached to failed a few years ago, and after replacing I've never looked back. Of all the dough I've ploughed into this hobby, this was money well spent.



    [​IMG]


    I had a Silca Track floor pump long ago. The skimpy base had it falling over easily and I pinched my nut sack in it once while I was doing some naked inflation (I was bending at the knees, big mistake). Except for that one snafu It performed well and did it's duty. Seal finally went on the head after several years and it would shoot off before hitting target pressure. Also had a couple Silca frame fit pumps, worked great except for the one I broke on the hood of a cab after it cut me off. The plastic head was better than the metal head imo, and that's coming from a former metal head.
     
  14. alienator

    alienator Well-Known Member

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    For what you're spending buying CO2 canisters and inner tubes, you could buy a floor pump and save money in the long run, especially when you consider that rubber is about 4-18 times more permeable to CO2 than it is to the other gases in air (This means you'll go through cartridges at an even faster rate).
     
  15. MotownBikeBoy

    MotownBikeBoy Active Member

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    This is why I like this forum, two things I didn't know. Cool.:smile:
     
  16. MotownBikeBoy

    MotownBikeBoy Active Member

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    Ok, couple of things - I do have a floor pump. I don't remember what brand. It should be a good one though, I think I paid like 80 bucks for it (we all know this sport ain't cheap). I have a couple of hand pumps too. I used the floor pump one time, it was a struggle because I didn't feel well that day to begin with. So, I have ignored it since, I should start using it again. Also, dear God, please help me, because ... The 48 yo dude with all kinds of health issues just officially signed the contract for ... a triathlon training program, 5 months of it starting 01/01. :big-smile:
     
  17. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    FYI. You may want to (and, should possibly consider) buy(ing) a SILCA PISTA "replacement" pump head which can then replace the pump head on the hose of your current floor pump ...

    The pump head is simply pressed onto the Presta valve stem ... and, when you are done, you simply pull it off.

    They are available at Colorado Cyclist, Excel, & most other retailers who carry Silca pumps -- I think it is still less than $20(US).

    There are TWO models ...

    1. one is a direct replacement for the pump head on the pump's hose
    2. the other threads into a crude SCHRADER adapter which you don't have to use (i.e., you would put the "adapter" in your toolbox & simply insert the alternate pump head into ANY "regular" Schrader pump head attachment on an as-needed basis ... which can be semi-permanent).

    Regarding using your frame pumps ...

    • another way to limit the amount of wiggling (as you know, a very BAD thing to do to your Presta stem!) is to secure the valve stem with your pinkie-and-ring fingers while hooking your thumb over an adjacent spoke ... use your middle-and-index fingers to steady the pump head ...
    • alternatively, consider enlarging the valve stem holes in your rims & using the tubes which have Schrader valves ...
    • or possibly, opt for airless, urethane tires.
     
  18. mpre53

    mpre53 Well-Known Member

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    Congratulations on taking charge of your heath issues. You should see a big improvement from your training in the areas of those issues. Just be sure that your knees will be OK with the running aspect of a tri. Swimming and cycling are very low impact sports, done correctly. Running, not so much.
     
  19. MotownBikeBoy

    MotownBikeBoy Active Member

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    Alfeng, that is awesome advice. Again, I learned a lot. Urethane tires, I had no idea they existed. Mpre3 - my joints are one thing that are in great shape, no arthritis or injuries to date. Knock on wood. Thanks for the kind words.
     
  20. Volnix

    Volnix Well-Known Member

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    Good luck with the triathlon...

    Yeah CO2 catridges are just too wasteful for indoor use... A good-ish pump will hold gas and pressure in your tires for longer with just a bit of "pumping" [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
     
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