I need to build a fixie, I think!

Discussion in 'Australia and New Zealand' started by Claes, Mar 3, 2005.

  1. Bikesoiler

    Bikesoiler New Member

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    So a five star doesn't have the stars cut into the lugs. Looks like brazed on stars instead. Is this right?
     


  2. suzyj

    suzyj New Member

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    Bikesoiler wrote:

    > So a five star doesn't have the stars cut into the lugs. Looks
    > like brazed on stars instead. Is this right?

    Most five stars have two stars cut into each lug, and a fifth larger star in the middle of the headtube.

    Like this (One of Rolf Lunsman's ones):

    http://canberrabicyclemuseum.com.au/MalvernStar/images/5 Star Photos/R L Head_Tube_50.jpg

    However Malvern Star also made custom five stars, and an option for a custom one was fillet brazed, rather than lugged, construction. With the fillet brazed ones, there were no lugs, so they brazed all five stars onto the headtube.

    They're not very common. Rolf told me there are two other fillet brazed ones that he knows of, but I've never seen one (other than mine).

    Regards,

    Suzy
     
  3. Bikesoiler

    Bikesoiler New Member

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    That must add to the delight in finding a free bike in hard waste. Old AND rare!
     
  4. suzyj

    suzyj New Member

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    Bikesoiler wrote:

    > That must add to the delight in finding a free bike in hard
    > waste. Old AND rare!

    I think it goes something like:

    Finding a 1947 fillet brazed five star in a rubbish heap: Priceless.
    Airlite hubs on ebay: $240
    15/16 ga. spokes (import from US): $150
    rechroming stem, bars, and cranks: dunno yet.
    supplies for making new decals: $lots
    paint: $lots
    Restoration of saddle (do you think you can find a Brooks B17 sprinter on ebay in good nick?): $lots
    ...

    All for a bike that's about an inch too big for me.

    In actuality, I've put aside the Malvern Star for a while (probably a couple of years) and am working mainly on the Speedwell and Airlite, as they fit me and are a lot less work (especially the Speedwell).

    Regards,

    Suzy
     
  5. TimC

    TimC Guest

    On Fri, 04 Mar 2005 at 04:31 GMT, suzyj (aka Bruce)
    was almost, but not quite, entirely unlike tea:
    > I think it goes something like:
    >
    > Finding a 1947 fillet brazed five star in a rubbish heap: Priceless.
    > Airlite hubs on ebay: $240
    > 15/16 ga. spokes (import from US): $150
    > rechroming stem, bars, and cranks: dunno yet.
    > supplies for making new decals: $lots
    > paint: $lots
    > Restoration of saddle (do you think you can find a Brooks B17 sprinter
    > on ebay in good nick?): $lots
    > ..
    >
    > All for a bike that's about an inch too big for me.


    So I'm probably going to ATNF at the end of April. You bring your
    bike in, don't you? Might have to sneak a peek.

    --
    TimC -- http://astronomy.swin.edu.au/staff/tconnors/
    I was going to compile a list of innovations that could be
    attributed to Microsoft. Once I realized that Ctrl-Alt-Del
    was handled in the BIOS, I found that there aren't any. --unk
     
  6. suzyj

    suzyj New Member

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    TimC wrote:

    > So I'm probably going to ATNF at the end of April. You bring your
    > bike in, don't you? Might have to sneak a peek.

    Not this one (except in pieces when I'm bludging bits or tools from the workshop). I usually ride the Audax bike in, or occasionally the fixed wheel (tho not at the moment as it's donated its seat to the Audax bike - I did a 600 last weekend on a seat with a crack right across it, so I was sitting directly on the seatpost - no wonder my bum hurt!).

    So if ya see a red bike with a huge Carradice saddlebag parked 'tween the canteen and astro wing, that's mine :)

    Regards,

    Suzy
     
  7. Gags

    Gags Guest

    "hippy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]
    > Claes wrote:
    > > Anyone that has a suitable frame? I am 6'2 or 188 cm in the proper
    > > units. I need something around 58-59 CC and 57-58 long. roughly. Any
    > > 175 or 180 cranks? Hmm, would it be a good idea to try to keep it campy
    > > or will it just look flash and get nicked? Need advice. I am so excited
    > > I am about to wet myself. ;)

    >
    > Damn your height! I want to sell Vegemite - it would be fine for locking
    > outside given it's just a powder-coated Apollo but it's 56cm.
    >
    > Ebay has free 'vehicle' ads until 7th so I really should get my bikes
    > listed pronto! BMX anyone?
    >
    > I might have flat bars for you - how wide? I have drops on ebay
    > currently and a set of Profile Airwing bullhorns that I could list or
    > sell privately (Gags - did u want these?). I've got a near new set of
    > Miche cranks, chain, etc too..
    >
    > Anyway.. let me know if you have a part-request because I'd like to get
    > rid of some stuff..
    >
    > part hoarder hippy


    Hippy,
    What width/reach are the bars and how much you want for them?? I will get
    in touch soon about the nightstick too (have been pretty busy for the last
    week at work).

    I am having a bit of a dilema over parts at the moment.....late last year I
    bought that bulk lot from ebay for $1200 and I have slowly been selling off
    pieces and I am just about to break even (still got heaps of stuff left to
    sell though). One of the items was a Shimano DX hub set that has a front
    hub, rear hub, and 14,15,16, and 18 tooth cogs (same as on link below).

    http://www.totalbmx.com.au/totalbmx/tbhubs shimano dx.html

    The dilema is that I am currently running a "budget" singlespeed mtb that
    has a spacers on a normal hyperglide cassette.

    http://www.users.tpg.com.au/adsl4xun/SingleSpeed.htm

    I need to decide if I am going to use the DX hubs to upgrade my singlespeed
    to a decent spec (which would mean new rims and brakes at the minimum) or if
    I am going to sell it on ebay. I have no idea what I would get for it but
    the site that I posted above are asking $199 for it.

    Decisions, decisions..............

    Gags
     
  8. hippy

    hippy Guest

    Gags wrote:
    > Hippy,
    > What width/reach are the bars and how much you want for them??


    Dunno.. stand Airwing? :) You can have 'em for a bit less than
    what they go for on ebay coz mine are "used". I don't think
    there's any marks on them but I'm not too careful with bikes
    so I'd have to check.

    > I will get in touch soon about the nightstick too (have been pretty
    > busy for the last week at work).


    Cool. It's in the office anyway.

    > I need to decide if I am going to use the DX hubs to upgrade my singlespeed
    > to a decent spec (which would mean new rims and brakes at the minimum) or if
    > I am going to sell it on ebay. I have no idea what I would get for it but
    > the site that I posted above are asking $199 for it.


    It's simple. Is the SS a shitter or a good bike? If shitter - sell the
    hubs. If it's a good bike or you want to upgrade it or build a new one,
    keep the hubs.

    I just put a DX cog on my GTSS, running the original AceraX freehub.
    There's no 'need' for purpose-built ss hubs unless you 'want' them.

    hippy
     
  9. Parbs

    Parbs Guest

  10. hippy

    hippy Guest

  11. Parbs

    Parbs Guest

    "hippy" posted some pornography...

    <snipped>

    Don't confuse need with lust.

    Parbs
     
  12. Resound

    Resound Guest

    "flyingdutch" <[email protected]> wrote in
    message news:[email protected]
    >
    > mad viking!
    >
    > get an ol' roadframe in appropriate size, preferably wih horizontal
    > dropouts to give you plenty of room-to-move for adjusting chain
    > tension.
    > Like you say, the scruffier it looks the less likely it will get
    > nicked.
    >
    > youre biggest challenge if you insist on fixed (Singlespeed would be a
    > truckload cheaper/easier) is going to be your dropout width.
    > IE the majority of road is 135mm wide (older stuff is narrower, isnt it
    > people?)
    > whereas track/fixed is 130mm. you can get On-One 135mm hubs.
    > Approx $140. James - OnOne 9431 5844, if you have the dough...
    > or an ENO white industries hub that can be used in a 'standard'
    > vertical dropout and has built-in adjustment for chain-tensioning. $225
    > tho. ouch!
    > Shifterbikes.com or Dan 03 9576 1144.
    >
    > OR go and speak to the lads at either Beasely bikes (footscray) who
    > carry some 2ndhand trackbikes or the lads at Brunswick St cycles whom
    > carry (i think) a nice Fuji fixie with good road geometry and drilled
    > for brakes (did i mention brakes?) for $750ish?
    >
    > or, just ignore me and go listen to god!
    > http://www.sheldonbrown.com/fixeda.html
    >
    >
    > --
    > flyingdutch
    >

    Or you can do what I did and just wind off the freewheel and wind on a track
    sprocket :) You don't have a lockring to hold it together if you do that,
    but rely on your brakes for slowing down and you should be ok. Besides, if
    the spocket comes loose, the next uphill stretch should sort that out. I can
    thorughly endorse Beaseley Cycles; they're my favoured LBS since I moved to
    Footscray. Nice people and they seem (to my poor noob mind) to know what
    they're talking about and have good prices. One of the few that didn't trip
    my bullshit alarm.
     
  13. Resound

    Resound Guest

    "hippy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]
    > Parbs wrote:
    > > Are you sure? I'm positive I *need* these
    > > http://www.dtswiss.com/index.asp?fuseaction=hubs.bikedetail&id=26

    >
    > Look, if you're talking about 'want' versus 'need', then THIS is what
    > you WANT and NEED:
    >
    > http://www.webcyclery.com/product.php?productid=16195&cat=403&page=1
    >
    > OR
    >
    > http://www.philwood.com/phome.htm
    >
    > DT? Huck-Too! ;)
    >
    > hippy :)


    Or for positive power transfer on big hills, there's this:
    http://www.philwood.com/specialprojects/bigphillilphil.jpeg
    Getting the dropouts set to the right width could be awkward though.
     
  14. Gags

    Gags Guest

    "Resound" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    news:[email protected]
    >
    > "hippy" <[email protected]> wrote in message
    > news:[email protected]
    > > Parbs wrote:
    > > > Are you sure? I'm positive I *need* these
    > > > http://www.dtswiss.com/index.asp?fuseaction=hubs.bikedetail&id=26

    > >
    > > Look, if you're talking about 'want' versus 'need', then THIS is what
    > > you WANT and NEED:
    > >
    > > http://www.webcyclery.com/product.php?productid=16195&cat=403&page=1
    > >
    > > OR
    > >
    > > http://www.philwood.com/phome.htm
    > >
    > > DT? Huck-Too! ;)
    > >
    > > hippy :)

    >
    > Or for positive power transfer on big hills, there's this:
    > http://www.philwood.com/specialprojects/bigphillilphil.jpeg
    > Getting the dropouts set to the right width could be awkward though.
    >
    >

    Now there is an idea......I wonder how hard it would be to run an SS with a
    standard dual chainring on the front, two cogs (and spacers) on the rear,
    and two chains. I guess that you would just have to stuff around with
    different sizes until you found the same ratio for each
    chain.........redundancy is always good and if you manage to break one of
    the chains (I have done this a few times now) then you would still have one
    left!!!

    Ride On,

    Gags
     
  15. hippy

    hippy Guest

    Gags wrote:
    > Now there is an idea......I wonder how hard it would be to run an SS with a
    > standard dual chainring on the front, two cogs (and spacers) on the rear,
    > and two chains. I guess that you would just have to stuff around with
    > different sizes until you found the same ratio for each
    > chain.........redundancy is always good and if you manage to break one of
    > the chains (I have done this a few times now) then you would still have one
    > left!!!


    Run the same size chainring and cog for each driveline? i.e. 32/16 and
    32/16 and shift the chain manually?

    I reckon a chain tool would be lighter than the extra driveline though
    and I've yet to break a chain.. :)

    hippy
     
  16. Koon Yong

    Koon Yong New Member

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    Now there is an idea......I wonder how hard it would be to run an SS with a
    standard dual chainring on the front, two cogs (and spacers) on the rear,
    and two chains. I guess that you would just have to stuff around with
    different sizes until you found the same ratio for each
    chain.........redundancy is always good and if you manage to break one of
    the chains (I have done this a few times now) then you would still have one
    left!!!

    With the cranks, it's easy. Just use a tandem crank on the left side.

    The left side rear wheel will be harder. There are such things as left hand drive BMX cogs but those require special hubs with reverse threading on the left side. Don't think there're any flip flop hubs with normal threading on the right and reverse thread on the left.

    You could do it on a fixie though with a double sided fixie hub.

    cheers
    koon
     
  17. Claes

    Claes New Member

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    I have found an old raleigh, with reynolds 555sl tubing, 59 cm, for a decent price. ASFAIK, 555sl is decent tubing, I have seen old bike built to close to 10 kilos with this frame, which should mean that the frame is not too heavy. What you guys reckon? Not sure how much of the components on it that I want to use, but it means that I get a very good entry into it. I get a complete bike, just change the rear hub and maybe cranks to get fixie. Remove all unecessary stuff. Then I can just pick up goodies when I see one and replace and get the bike the way I want it. I kind of like that approach.

    I am already building the bike in my head. Hell, I wanna know all the bits and pieces that you have laying around and are interested in selling or bartering away.

    One thing bugs me though, in Sweden I have some beautiful "old" campa Croce Daun stuff, cranks, brake levers, hubs and stuff. Would have been too nice though. :)
     
  18. PiledHigher

    PiledHigher New Member

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    I've thought about the double sided or wrong sided drive train and most of it is easy for a fixie but pedals may be troublesome (unless you buy a set of stoker cranks to mount the chainring on)
     
  19. hippy

    hippy Guest

    Claes wrote:
    > I have found an old raleigh, with reynolds 555sl tubing, 59 cm, for a
    > decent price. ASFAIK, 555sl is decent tubing, I have seen old bike
    > built to close to 10 kilos with this frame, which should mean that the
    > frame is not too heavy. What you guys reckon? Not sure how much of the
    > components on it that I want to use, but it means that I get a very
    > good entry into it. I get a complete bike, just change the rear hub and
    > maybe cranks to get fixie. Remove all unecessary stuff. Then I can just
    > pick up goodies when I see one and replace and get the bike the way I
    > want it. I kind of like that approach.


    Price? Have you purchased it already?
    Are you building it up to be cheap or posh?

    HippySPAM:
    http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=7139138667

    hippy
     
  20. Claes

    Claes New Member

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    Not purchased yet, soon maybe. It is the right size. It can not look posh, it will be parked outside and locked up from time to time. Do not want it to get nicked. So good quality but not lock posh if you see what I mean. I want as nice a ride as possible, without it looking posh. :)
     
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