I'd appreciate any suggestions re tubular tires w/flat protection



Jun 6, 2006
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What's a good tubular for training which has good flat protection? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Don't know if it matters but they have to carry some 220 lbs + bike.
 
Tufo ones, like the HCC, they never puncture...

... though they're not really performant. A gatorskin maybe is the best choice.
 
How does a gatorskin roll vs a tire without the sidewall protection?

Also, I know I can't run 32mm cyclocross tires on a rim which is about 22mm dia, but how important is it to get just the right diameter, as in 21 vs 22 vs 23?

Also, do you plug the spoke holes in a double wall rim, or is the base tape of a tubular tire carcass strong enough to prevent the tire shearing into the hole?
 
garage sale GT said:
How does a gatorskin roll vs a tire without the sidewall protection?

Also, I know I can't run 32mm cyclocross tires on a rim which is about 22mm dia, but how important is it to get just the right diameter, as in 21 vs 22 vs 23?

Also, do you plug the spoke holes in a double wall rim, or is the base tape of a tubular tire carcass strong enough to prevent the tire shearing into the hole?

First, I have normal Sprinters on my Waterford and Gatorskin sprinters on my moots and I sure can't tell any difference.

And sure you can put a 32mm onto a 22mm rim.
 
garage sale GT said:
How does a gatorskin roll vs a tire without the sidewall protection?

Also, I know I can't run 32mm cyclocross tires on a rim which is about 22mm dia, but how important is it to get just the right diameter, as in 21 vs 22 vs 23?

Also, do you plug the spoke holes in a double wall rim, or is the base tape of a tubular tire carcass strong enough to prevent the tire shearing into the hole?
In the past, maybe too distant a past, the width (brake surface to brake surface) of tubular rims was farily standardized ...

The primary (?) reason not to use a LARGER clincher on a narrower rim relates to the inconvenience of removing the wheel & 'fat' tire from the bike since most quick releases won't open most ROAD calipers far enough to fit a 'fat' inflated tire back into the frame/fork. With cantilevers, you can just unhook the yoke to 'open' the calipers, so the rim width isn't an issue.

BTW. MY porky Michelin CX sew-ups could be glued/mounted on a "standard" tubular rim.

FWIW. I don't recommend training on your tubulars because of tire cost & convenience (i.e., eventual replacement, unless you have a shop that keeps a large inventory of CX sew-ups in stock). Better to have a pair of 622-13 rims laced up which will have the same brake-to-brake width as most tubular rims (to elminate the need to re-set the pads when you swap wheels).

The rim tape on a sew-up tire protects the lacing from BOTH the rim glue/(tape, for the TUFO tape aficionados) AND the spokes.
 
I just want to try them too. I guess I should say they are for touring and fitness as opposed to training for a specific sporting event.

Say pete, have you ever tried those gray Vittoria 32mm's with a diamond tread on pavement? I want to ride about half asphalt, half crushed limestone trail.
 

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