I'm about ready to give up on clipless pedals



Do your look pedals have adjustable float? maybe there's too much for easy unclipping. The low end pedals I use only have four degrees of float; consequently it is easy to unclip without twisting your foot too far outward.

Maybe you just need to practice unclipping one foot at a time?

Anyway, you can't always tell which way the bike will lean so just unclip both feet while you've still got some speed.
 
scirocco said:
I agree it's all about technique when you stop. I don't do it consciously, but I know I kind of shuffle my weight across the saddle to the side I'm going to clip out of - then you are "falling" in the right direction at least.

You've also done it the hard way starting with road pedals, which do take a bit more effort to get out of than MTB ones.
I agree with this. I started with SPD (MTB) shoes and find no reason not to keep them. It is a learned action. Don't give up. I will never go back to platforms or clips and straps (although I do have them on my back up bike in case a friend wants to ride). Once you get used to them you wil sawear by them.

Cheers,

Brian
 
kdelong said:
I can pull and push with the toe clip/toe straps. It is just a matter of having them tight enough to be able to do that but still loose enough to pull your foot out when you need to stop. If you couldn't do this, they would be rather pointless to have on the bicycle, wouldn't they? The only real hassle that I have with platforms is that I have to flip them right side up to insert my foot. The weight of the toe clips always causes them to flip upside down when I pull my foot out.
You are right on the money...this is a royal pain it the sphincter.
 
kdelong said:
..but there is nothing wrong with riding platforms if that is what you choose to do...
A few weeks ago I was watching A Sunday in Hell, Paris-Roubaix in the days of toe-clip pedals. The agony on the face of one rider lying on the ground with his bike still attached, twisting his foot the opposite way from how he was lying, would put you off toe-clips for good. After all, "clipless" pedals evolved from ski-boot bindings, designed to release before they did your ankles and knees any serious damage.
 
OK here is my 2 cents worth. Make sure your cleats are screwed in as tight as possible into the sole (to avoid stripping the thread, a drop of grease on each screw is desirable). The slightest give in the cleats means more chance of cleat rotation, and it wont kick out of the release.
Now. when rotating your foot, rotate you ankle outwards, not your entire foot. I'm guessing your rotation may be wrong, e.g. you could be twisting the front of the shoe too much? the trick is to just turn the heel as much as possible....
give that a shot. I dont understand some of the old-timers here who dont like 'clipless' because they're hard to walk on.... you get used to them, and besides, biomechanically, if set up properly, should reduce or even eliminate knee/ankle problems for ever.
Nuff said.
 
scirocco said:
A few weeks ago I was watching A Sunday in Hell, Paris-Roubaix in the days of toe-clip pedals. The agony on the face of one rider lying on the ground with his bike still attached, twisting his foot the opposite way from how he was lying, would put you off toe-clips for good. After all, "clipless" pedals evolved from ski-boot bindings, designed to release before they did your ankles and knees any serious damage.
Racers in the days of toe clips cinched up the straps really tight so that you really were attached to the bike. The riding that I do now is non-competitive recreational riding with a little commuting thrown in. I don't need to pull my straps up tight and can easily slip my foot out when I want to. I have never had a ankle or knee problem that resulted from riding, only a sprained ankle suffered while running with my dog. As for clipless pedals evolving from ski bindings, aren't sprained knees and ankles, or worse, common among skiers?
 
Aussie Steve said:
I dont understand some of the old-timers here who dont like 'clipless' because they're hard to walk on.... you get used to them, and besides, biomechanically, if set up properly, should reduce or even eliminate knee/ankle problems for ever.
Nuff said.
After 35 years of riding with toe clips and straps, clipless felt too foreign to me, even after an entire season of only riding clipless, so I went back to toe clips and straps. As for walking with cleats, cycling road shoes are not made very well for walking any but the shortest distance. Not much good if you are going to ride to the art museum or museum of natural history. They are even difficult to wear when grocery shopping. With cleats installed, and cleat covers on them to protect the cleat and the floor, the angle of the foot on the floor leaves a lot to be desired.

I have been told that Mountain Bike Shoes are different, but from the ones that I have looked at, you still need cleat covers to keep from scratching up nice floors. Bad thing about cleat covers is that you need to remember to bring them along on your ride. On top of that, what if you forgot to bring your shoes with you to the assembly point of a ride (of course this is presuming that you transport your bike to the assembly point rather than ride it)? With toe clips and straps, most any shoe will work.

The purpose of my original post was not to try to dissuade anyone from using clipless pedals. I did want to point out that there is a viable alternative and that the OP could still ride, even if they could not get used to clipless pedals. Oh, by the way, in 40 years of riding with toe clips and straps, I have never suffered any knee or ankle problems caused by cycling. So I guess that toe clips and straps, when set up properly, are biomechanically correct also. Get back to me after your 40th year of riding clipless and let me know how it all worked out for you;)!
 
kdelong said:
Racers in the days of toe clips cinched up the straps really tight so that you really were attached to the bike. The riding that I do now is non-competitive recreational riding with a little commuting thrown in. I don't need to pull my straps up tight and can easily slip my foot out when I want to. I have never had a ankle or knee problem that resulted from riding, only a sprained ankle suffered while running with my dog. As for clipless pedals evolving from ski bindings, aren't sprained knees and ankles, or worse, common among skiers?
I think you are the first person I have seen who is defending toe clips over clipless pedals...
 
kdelong said:
After 35 years of riding with toe clips and straps, clipless felt too foreign to me, even after an entire season of only riding clipless, so I went back to toe clips and straps. As for walking with cleats, cycling road shoes are not made very well for walking any but the shortest distance. Not much good if you are going to ride to the art museum or museum of natural history. They are even difficult to wear when grocery shopping. With cleats installed, and cleat covers on them to protect the cleat and the floor, the angle of the foot on the floor leaves a lot to be desired.

I have been told that Mountain Bike Shoes are different, but from the ones that I have looked at, you still need cleat covers to keep from scratching up nice floors. Bad thing about cleat covers is that you need to remember to bring them along on your ride. On top of that, what if you forgot to bring your shoes with you to the assembly point of a ride (of course this is presuming that you transport your bike to the assembly point rather than ride it)? With toe clips and straps, most any shoe will work.

The purpose of my original post was not to try to dissuade anyone from using clipless pedals. I did want to point out that there is a viable alternative and that the OP could still ride, even if they could not get used to clipless pedals. Oh, by the way, in 40 years of riding with toe clips and straps, I have never suffered any knee or ankle problems caused by cycling. So I guess that toe clips and straps, when set up properly, are biomechanically correct also. Get back to me after your 40th year of riding clipless and let me know how it all worked out for you;)!


Great post. I have a bike with Time rxs pedals and using Specialized S-works shoes with carbon souls. Brutal to walk in and I don't have any cleat covers, nor would it matter much as I don't care to do damage to the soul/bottom area of the shoes. When I bought this pedal/shoe setup I never gave practicality much consideration as I knew this is the kind of setup one would want for any high end road bike. However on my other road bike I use shimano spd shoes. on the bottome of the shoe the cleat is mounted with two screws in a recessed area so when your walking the tread of the shoe makes contact but not the cleat and the tread/soul area is a very stiff rubber. These shoes are nice and I use them with another road bike of mine that has crankbrother's eagbeater pedals. The eggbeater's have a lot of side to side float feeling to them vs. the Time pedals but there so much easier to use. I also have a mountainbike with the standard platform pedals. I consider myself a average rider with the potential to up my game but I just barely see much performance increase. Oh and yes I used to have a few bikes with toeclips and I liked those too but only when the straps were loose so my shoes didn't feel locked in. I actually find the Time cleats to be a pain in the ass but like I said with a Cervelo they're supposed to look the part. :rolleyes:
 
If you give the clipless pedals a little more time I think you will get used to them. All the advice so far has been excellent.

I've even seen experienced riders coming into the parking lot after a group ride only to fall over when they stop and forget the right way to unclip.

Other than stopping here are two tips that may not work for everyone but they help me.

1. If you are pedaling uphill and you drop your chain shifting to a smaller chainring, unclip out of the pedals FAST! Otherwise you will be spinning at 150 rpm with no pedal resistance and no momentum...I fell this way. Just rehearse it in your mind what you will do first (unclip) when this happens.

2. At busy intersections I may unclip both feet to wait for an opening in traffic. When you see an opening, clip into one pedal and pedal with one foot until safely across the intersection. This way you are not looking down between your legs trying to get the other foot into the second clip while in the middle of the lane of traffic. You'll likely take too long and be distracted from safely getting accross the intersection. Once you have some momentum build up and are on the other side you can get into the other clip.

Good luck

Mark :)
 
mark444 said:
If you give the clipless pedals a little more time I think you will get used to them. All the advice so far has been excellent.

I've even seen experienced riders coming into the parking lot after a group ride only to fall over when they stop and forget the right way to unclip.

Other than stopping here are two tips that may not work for everyone but they help me.

1. If you are pedaling uphill and you drop your chain shifting to a smaller chainring, unclip out of the pedals FAST! Otherwise you will be spinning at 150 rpm with no pedal resistance and no momentum...I fell this way. Just rehearse it in your mind what you will do first (unclip) when this happens.

2. At busy intersections I may unclip both feet to wait for an opening in traffic. When you see an opening, clip into one pedal and pedal with one foot until safely across the intersection. This way you are not looking down between your legs trying to get the other foot into the second clip while in the middle of the lane of traffic. You'll likely take too long and be distracted from safely getting accross the intersection. Once you have some momentum build up and are on the other side you can get into the other clip.

Good luck

Mark :)
Thanks for the help guys. The person that responded regarding the float may be on to something. Does anyone know what the Look Keo's have? I think it 9 degrees. That makes sense to me because it feels like I really have to move my foot alot to get out.
 
mark444 said:
Other than stopping here are two tips that may not work for everyone but they help me.

1. If you are pedaling uphill and you drop your chain shifting to a smaller chainring, unclip out of the pedals FAST! Otherwise you will be spinning at 150 rpm with no pedal resistance and no momentum...I fell this way. Just rehearse it in your mind what you will do first (unclip) when this happens.
I have never encountered that problem. Are you on the biggest cog (in the rear) when you shift to the lower chainring? I usually shift up the rear derailleur before shifting down the chainring...
 
jwroubaix said:
Thanks for the help guys. The person that responded regarding the float may be on to something. Does anyone know what the Look Keo's have? I think it 9 degrees. That makes sense to me because it feels like I really have to move my foot alot to get out.
The float varies depending on which cleat you buy.
Black = 0
Grey = 4.5
Red = 9
 
I have the gray also and cannot imagine needing the extra flexibility of the red cleats. Gray has enough leyway for my casual rides. If anyone can post other reasons to go with the reg models I'd be interested in reading your comments.

Thanks


Mark
jwroubaix said:
I have the grey.
 
mark444 said:
I have the gray also and cannot imagine needing the extra flexibility of the red cleats. Gray has enough leyway for my casual rides. If anyone can post other reasons to go with the reg models I'd be interested in reading your comments.

By regular models, do you mean the other cleats? One reason might be that you want/like more/less float. That's all.
 
mark444 said:
I have the gray also and cannot imagine needing the extra flexibility of the red cleats. Gray has enough leyway for my casual rides. If anyone can post other reasons to go with the reg models I'd be interested in reading your comments.

Thanks


Mark
I bought red once by mistake. Fortunately they wore out fast enough. With a little wear on the red 9 degree they became more like 15 degree. :)
I have never tried zero float, but I would opt for zero before I use 9 degree. It is an optional thing per individual.
 
Felt_Rider said:
I bought red once by mistake. Fortunately they wore out fast enough. With a little wear on the red 9 degree they became more like 15 degree. :)
I have never tried zero float, but I would opt for zero before I use 9 degree. It is an optional thing per individual.
would zero float be easier to unclip from?
 
jwroubaix said:
would zero float be easier to unclip from?
I would expect it to be so, but it also depends on the tension setting. Higher float implies that the feet would stay clipped through a larger range of motion compared to when the float is zero. But using zero float also carries greater risk of aches and sores if the cleats are not adjusted properly.
 
TheDarkLord said:
I would expect it to be so, but it also depends on the tension setting. Higher float implies that the feet would stay clipped through a larger range of motion compared to when the float is zero. But using zero float also carries greater risk of aches and sores if the cleats are not adjusted properly.
Amen Brother!!
Some people can tolerate zero float. I can tolerate keeping my feet straight for the most part, but there are times when you need to make some subtle adjustments when you are on the saddle for extended periods.

jw, you just need to give it more time. One day in the future unclipping will be an unconscious behavior, but for now just keep reminding yourself to unclip early before stopping. I believe most of us have been through your present concerns. Like others I have been embarassed in front of a crowd, but not anymore.

With Look Keos after some wear will become easier to unclip. Once you become accustomed to unclipping with the keos you will appreciate the crisp feel of brand new cleats. Now I try to keep fairly new cleats because it is frustrating to have one them unclip while climbing or spinning at a high rate like racing.
 

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