FWIW & IMO. The most difficult part about fabricating the replacement derailleur hanger probably involves opening your wallet to buy the necessary tools ([COLOR= #808080]if a person doesn't have them[/COLOR]) + accessing a suitable piece of aluminum ... or, paying someone else to do it.
Really, it is mostly a question of time ...
A "machinist" or someone who has metal working tools may have a laser cutter, in which case it just requires a careful template (bring your bike frame to whomever might
cut the new hanger for you) AND the right material ...
If you go to a "machinist" then ASK how much they are going to charge
before you agree on anything because there may be a minimum fee ... and the final cost could be equal to several derailleur hangers.
Again, IMO, the skill level for a DIY fabrication is about a 2-out-of-5 ... it's a little more involved than being able to screw-in or unscrew a light bulb, but nothing nearly as complicated as you probably envision ... it's a little more involved than cutting a stencil in some cardboard with a pair of scissors and/or utility knife ONLY BECAUSE the material is thicker & harder.
--------------------
BTW. If the your rear derailleur hanger's bend is MINIMAL ([COLOR= #808080]i.e., you can barely slip a toothpick under the hanger when the concave portion is laid downward on a flat surface just to suggest what 'I' would deem to be minimal[/COLOR]) OR, if you can't see any variation in the metal's surface (
i.e., [COLOR= #808080]micro-fissures aligned with the bend akin to the crease in a piece of folded paper[/COLOR]), then you can probably use the hanger by simply flattening the metal ...
- with the hanger removed from the bike, place the hanger on a flat surface ([COLOR= #808080]e.g., the sidewalk or driveway outside where you live[/COLOR]) so that the bowed side is facing upward
- you will want to tap the convexed hanger with a hammer to flatten it out ... BE GENTLE ...
[*] you don't want to over-work the metal by flexing more than is necessary ...
[*] If necessary, put the ends on a couple of supports ([COLOR= #ff8c00]
e.g., toothpicks/
whatever[/COLOR]) so that when you tap the up-raised bend it has someplace to 'go'
[*] repeat as necessary ([COLOR= #808080]
many small taps are better than one massive tap when working on something like this[/COLOR])
- ALTERNATIVELY, if you have access to a bench vise, then you can simply sandwich the hanger between two scraps of thin plywood & squeeze the hanger flat, again
- repeat as necessary
- IF you are anxious about using the "repaired" hanger in its repaired state, then sandwich it with some CLEAR PACKING TAPE ([COLOR= #0000ff]both sides[/COLOR]) ... so, that if it ever fails the tape will stop the hanger from failing catestrophically by falling away from the frame & into your rear wheel ... a couple of dodgy shifts will be a warning that you should stop & check the hanger before riding further ...
- inspect & replace the hanger & tape periodically
If aluminum did not have SOME elasticity, then it would be impossible to TRUE a rim.