I had a similar problem.
I could adjust the shift l->h or h->l, but not both. There is probably some wear in my setup, and I
noticed the top pulley had a fair bit of float. I packed it out to reduce the float to about 1/4 mm
(from 1.5 ish) and it works a treat. I understand that float is there to help reduce noise etc if
the alignment is off, but plays no part in improving shift performance - is that right?
Walter Mitty wrote:
> "A Muzi" <
[email protected]> brightened my day with his incisive wit when in
>
news:[email protected] he conjectured that:
>
>
>>"Walter Mitty" <
[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>>
>>>I have read a few articles about rear derailleur adjusting but am still unable to get my rear
>>>shimano rsx to shift to lower gears with a single click. In "friction" more the shift works fine.
>>>In "index" mode I need to click down twice and then up one in order for to move down a gear.
>>>
>>>My LBS says the cables etc are fine, and that it's probably just tiredness on my rear mechs part
>>>- it is 9 years old now - and that the return spring isn't strong enough.
>>>
>>>Any hints or tips? Is it the case that it's time to change rear derailleurs?
>>
>>A common question here.
>>
>>Sight the rear changer's cage in high gear. Get your head behind the changer and ensure the cage
>>is in the same plane as the chainrings. If not, align or consult your LBS. Now disconnect the
>>shift wire. Pedal with your right hand. With your left, press the derailleur body with your thumb
>>up a couple of cogs and let go. The body should shift back to the high gear smartly. When you do
>>that agressively the chain should go no further than high gear. Use the "H" adjusting screw to set
>>that limit. Now shift to low with your thumb. Hard. Use the "L" adjusting screw to set the limit
>>so it can go to low but no further.
>>
>>Inspect the wire and casing to preclude any rust, kinks, damaged ferrules. Smear a light oil on
>>wires where they will run in casing and where they slide on cable giudes. Oil the casing adjuster
>>and screw it tight then back a turn or two. Oil the cable anchor bolt. Ensure the derailleur is
>>tight to the frame.
>>
>>If you haven't ever, now's a good time to open your derailleur rollers and add a drop of oil. Do
>>them one at a time so you don't put the top roller on the bottom. Ensure the roller bolts are
>>tight. That's only needed once in the life of a derailleur but manufacturers no longer do that
>>for you.
>>
>>Now connect the wire, pulling it snug with your fingers with both the lever and derailleur in high
>>gear. Shift one click while pedalling. The chain should now be on the second cog. If it isn't
>>quite, the cable is too loose. Either pull it through the anchor a bit tighter and lock it again
>>or just turn the adjuster tighter (anticlockwise). Once in the second cog you can finely adjust
>>the wire's tension by looking to ensure the roller is directly under the second cog or, truly, by
>>ear. Once the first shift is set correctly the other gears should all fall into place unless you
>>are using mixed-brand equipment.
>>
>>--
>>Andrew Muzi
http://www.yellowjersey.org Open every day since 1 April 1971
>>
>>
>
>
> Hi,
>
> Thanks for the detailed reply. I omitted to say that index shipping from high to low works fine.
> It's only from low to high gear that I need to "over shift".