[COLOR= rgb(24, 24, 24)]FWIW. [/COLOR]STEEL is comparatively heavy ... about 3x more than a comparable **** of aluminum according to some ...
[COLOR= rgb(24, 24, 24)]My observation is that a CroMo steel bicycle frame in the
57cm size range will typically weigh about 2 lbs. more than a [/COLOR][COLOR= rgb(24, 24, 24)]
comparable[/COLOR][COLOR= rgb(24, 24, 24)] (in design & size) aluminum bicycle frame ... [/COLOR]
[COLOR= rgb(24, 24, 24)]So, it doesn't surprise me that a significantly larger steel frame might not weigh 4+ [/COLOR]lbs. more than the slightly smaller sized alloy frame of your current bike ...
[COLOR= rgb(24, 24, 24)]Due to possible "engineering" of the tubes for the larger size frame, the downtube may be more robust than on smaller frame and consequently the larger frame may be slightly heavier than if one were simply to presume a proportional adjustment in size & weight ...[/COLOR]
The bottom line is that if the wheels on your new bike + other components are comparable (
or, better), then
the weight difference will probably not be noticeable ...
BTW. For a variety of reasons, I recommend that you choose Campagnolo shifters ... it's not just a
cosmetic recommendation (
i.e., many people bought Shimano AND Trek because that's what Lance used ... later, they bought SRAM because THOSE were the shifters found on subsequent winning bikes of the TdF/etc.) ... not that there is anything wrong with choosing components based on cosmetics!
Regardless, if you look at Zinn's ads, the bikes more-frequently-than-not usually have Campagnolo shifters ... whether that is a subliminal suggestion or if there's another reason ... well, who knows? Product placement is not an impossibility.
Also, this may be stating the obvious, but at your height, you probably want cranks which are 180mm long OR longer (
ask Zinn what length crankarm he prefers to use OR recommends). The slightly longer crankarms will add a couple of ounces.
If you are getting 46mm handlebars (
which you should probably consider at your height), that may add a couple of ounces ...
- 46mm is the widest size, AFAIK ... maybe, there are wider bars
- handlebars are NOT "created equal" -- on many, where the brake levers are mounted will be slightly narrower than the ends ... the TruVativ Rouleur TEAM handlebars (do they still make them?) are as wide where the brake levers are mounted as at the ends ...
Another consideration would be to contact Richard Schwinn at GUNNAR and see if he can cobble together a frame for you in a comparable size to the KHS 747 which you are considering ... and then, simply transfer the bulk of your existing components OR build it up with other parts ...
- Gunnar frames are the non-custom baby-brother to Waterford frames
A custom frame may be worth considering ... or, minimally, contacting the builders to see what they might recommend as far as frame dimensions ... different builders may (actually, probably OR
will) have slightly different ideas as to what they would build for you.
I don't know what the KHS 747 costs ... if you are on a "tight" budget, then a consideration would be to select an XL size 29er Hardtail frame & mount a Rigid fork ... the XL 29er will probably have as long a virtual top tube (
I would think at least 64cm) as whatever Road frame you are looking at ... probably longer.
If you are moderately flexible AND use a Road fork, then that will lower the front end & in so doing make the effective top tube be at a shallower angle & therefore a cm-or-two longer ... a trade-off, but the head tube angle will probably be at about 72º or 73º -- the norm for most smaller Road bikes.
- a high-rise stem can partially-or-completely offset the difference in effective stem height
- a shorter stem has the same net effect as having a longer stem which is mounted with fewer spacers
A Touring-or-Tandem fork will result in an intermediate top tube length (
from a 'true' 29er setup with a suspension-corrected Rigid fork & a Road fork which uses a normal 39-49 reach Road brake) & intermediate head tube angle.