Is it worthwhile to rebuild Deore/LX 9 speed hubs

[AWN]

This may sound like a silly question but my experience with working on hubs
is limited to minor adjustments to cone tension. I have 2 rear Deore/LX mtb
hubs that seem to be Œsticking¹ a little as if missing engagement/pawl
connection. Is there a Œkit¹ available for rebuilding these hubs or is it
even worthwhile? Is it true that the XT versions are far easier to rebuild
with drop in cartridge bearings? It seems easier to me that dropping in
bearings one at a time in a surgically-clean envirmonment. Anyway, are the
XTs that much better or do you have other suggestions? I do fairly
aggressive XC and very light DH riding. I don¹t take huge drops or anything
and for the mostpart I like to be relatively close to the ground.

I am using these hubs with Rhinolite rims and DT Swiss spokes if it makes
any difference...

Thanks for any advice you can offer based on experience.
Andrew.

 

[Hank Wirtz]

On Jun 29, 6:22 am, AWN <[email protected]> wrote:
> This may sound like a silly question but my experience with working on hubs
> is limited to minor adjustments to cone tension. I have 2 rear Deore/LX mtb
> hubs that seem to be Œsticking¹ a little as if missing engagement/pawl
> connection. Is there a Œkit¹ available for rebuilding these hubs or is it
> even worthwhile? Is it true that the XT versions are far easier to rebuild
> with drop in cartridge bearings? It seems easier to me that dropping in
> bearings one at a time in a surgically-clean envirmonment. Anyway, are the
> XTs that much better or do you have other suggestions? I do fairly
> aggressive XC and very light DH riding. I don¹t take huge drops or anything
> and for the mostpart I like to be relatively close to the ground.
>
> I am using these hubs with Rhinolite rims and DT Swiss spokes if it makes
> any difference...
>
> Thanks for any advice you can offer based on experience.
> Andrew.

All Shimano hubs use cup-and-cone bearings, no cartridges.

Anyway, if your freehub mechanism is failing (and a pawl not engaging
sounds like a failure to me) you can remove that from the hub with a
10mm Allen wrench, and put a new one on. Cost is around $30. Since a
new LX580 rear hub runs about $35-40, I'd say it's only worth it if
the hub is laced into a wheel you want to keep.

 

[landotter]

On Jun 29, 8:22 am, AWN <[email protected]> wrote:
> This may sound like a silly question but my experience with working on hubs
> is limited to minor adjustments to cone tension. I have 2 rear Deore/LX mtb
> hubs that seem to be Œsticking¹ a little as if missing engagement/pawl
> connection.

Remove, flush, and relube the freehub. Unless it's actually worn out
or broken, this should get you back in business.
http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=45

 

[Nate Knutson]

On Jun 29, 9:49 am, landotter <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Jun 29, 8:22 am, AWN <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> > This may sound like a silly question but my experience with working on hubs
> > is limited to minor adjustments to cone tension. I have 2 rear Deore/LX mtb
> > hubs that seem to be Œsticking¹ a little as if missing engagement/pawl
> > connection.
>
> Remove, flush, and relube the freehub. Unless it's actually worn out
> or broken, this should get you back in business.http://parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=45

This page is pretty cool but I feel like pointing out that just
overhauling a Shimano freehub, presuming you have the now-unavailable
tool to do so and can manage to get the dust cap off without hurting
it or you have a replacement one, really isn't going to take much
longer than doing a good job of hitting it with solvent and compressed
air. Then you can actually do the job right since you can adjust the
bearing by removing a washer(s), which many freehubs that have made it
that far probably need anyway, and will help keep the bearing going as
well as reducing slop in your freehub and by extension your cassette,
which can't be bad.

 

[Joel Mayes]

On 2007-06-29, AWN <[email protected]> wrote:
>> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
> this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
>
> --B_3265953727_283104
> Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
> Content-transfer-encoding: 8bit
>
> This may sound like a silly question but my experience with working on hubs
> is limited to minor adjustments to cone tension. I have 2 rear Deore/LX mtb
> hubs that seem to be Œsticking¹ a little as if missing engagement/pawl
> connection. Is there a Œkit¹ available for rebuilding these hubs or is it
> even worthwhile? Is it true that the XT versions are far easier to rebuild
> with drop in cartridge bearings? It seems easier to me that dropping in
> bearings one at a time in a surgically-clean envirmonment. Anyway, are the
> XTs that much better or do you have other suggestions? I do fairly
> aggressive XC and very light DH riding. I don¹t take huge drops or anything
> and for the mostpart I like to be relatively close to the ground.

You certainly can rebuild this, it's really simple jon you'll need a
four specialised tools (13 & 15mm cone spaners, a chain whip and a
splined shimano casette tool) some bearing grease and a small pile of
ball bearings

have a read of <http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/hubs.html>

Cheers

>
> --B_3265953727_283104
> Content-type: text/html; charset="ISO-8859-1"
> Content-transfer-encoding: quoted-printable
>
><HTML>
><HEAD>
><TITLE>Is it worthwhile to rebuild Deore/LX 9 speed hubs</TITLE>
></HEAD>
><BODY>
><FONT FACE=3D"Verdana">This may sound like a silly question but my experience=

You should set your news ready to do text only messages!

Cheers

Joel

--
Human Powered Cycles | High quality servicing and repairs
[email protected] | Affordable second hand bikes
(03) 9029 6504 | Bicycle reuse centre
www.humanpowered.com.au | Mechanical and on-road training and instruction

 

[datakoll]

cr-18 is lighter and 'indestructable' from normal use
http://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=17107&category=860
running a deore 760 xt to a rebuild at abt 3000 miles:
no axle play before rebuild. nada
no sign of bearing or hub wear beyond a slight dulling of chrome
bearing surfaces
using finish line teflon grease lube and a wheels mfg solid axle
red loctite on cassette side
the mileage was under HD touring loads.

rebuild with best quality hi chromium grade 25 bearings
get a rebuild kit, with a cassette side "rubber" washer, if possible.
tho replacing the washer may not be necessary, having one on hand
ensures its not.
3-4 rebuilds up to 7-8000 miles are probabble but this is on a well
maintained road hub-grease always clean, replaced once a year.

 

[jim beam]

AWN wrote:
> This may sound like a silly question but my experience with working on
> hubs is limited to minor adjustments to cone tension. I have 2 rear
> Deore/LX mtb hubs that seem to be ‘sticking’ a little as if missing
> engagement/pawl connection. Is there a ‘kit’ available for rebuilding
> these hubs or is it even worthwhile? Is it true that the XT versions
> are far easier to rebuild with drop in cartridge bearings? It seems
> easier to me that dropping in bearings one at a time in a
> surgically-clean envirmonment. Anyway, are the XTs that much better or
> do you have other suggestions? I do fairly aggressive XC and very light
> DH riding. I don’t take huge drops or anything and for the mostpart I
> like to be relatively close to the ground.
>
> I am using these hubs with Rhinolite rims and DT Swiss spokes if it
> makes any difference...
>
> Thanks for any advice you can offer based on experience.
> Andrew.

imo, it's not worth rebuilding those hubs. the price for total
replacement is low and the quality is not high. simply replace.

 

[landotter]

On Jun 29, 10:26 pm, Joel Mayes <[email protected]> wrote:
> On 2007-06-29, AWN <[email protected]> wrote:
>
>
>
> >> This message is in MIME format. Since your mail reader does not understand
> > this format, some or all of this message may not be legible.
>
> > --B_3265953727_283104
> > Content-type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
> > Content-transfer-encoding: 8bit
>
> > This may sound like a silly question but my experience with working on hubs
> > is limited to minor adjustments to cone tension. I have 2 rear Deore/LX mtb
> > hubs that seem to be Œsticking¹ a little as if missing engagement/pawl
> > connection. Is there a Œkit¹ available for rebuilding these hubs or is it
> > even worthwhile? Is it true that the XT versions are far easier to rebuild
> > with drop in cartridge bearings? It seems easier to me that dropping in
> > bearings one at a time in a surgically-clean envirmonment. Anyway, arethe
> > XTs that much better or do you have other suggestions? I do fairly
> > aggressive XC and very light DH riding. I don¹t take huge drops or anything
> > and for the mostpart I like to be relatively close to the ground.
>
> You certainly can rebuild this, it's really simple jon you'll need a
> four specialised tools (13 & 15mm cone spaners, a chain whip and a
> splined shimano casette tool) some bearing grease and a small pile of
> ball bearings
>
> have a read of <http://sheldonbrown.com/tooltips/hubs.html>
>

I believe the OP is having problems with the freehub, not the bearing--
though the post is confusing as it mentions XT cartridge bearing hubs,
which are merely a fantasy, AFAIK. Indeed, servicing loose bearing
hubs is very simple--and mind, you only really need one cone wrench,
the Park DCW-4 ($5) and an adjustable wrench. I've never had a problem
leaving the cassette on, even with my big hands, though you'd want to
remove it to get to the freehub securing bolt. Freehub removal
requires just one more tool, a large hex wrench, a 10mm (I think).
Auto parts stores are the best place to get one of those bad boys for
peanuts.

 

[datakoll]

>
> imo, it's not worth rebuilding those hubs. the price for total
> replacement is low and the quality is not high. simply replace.- Hide quoted text -




4 rebuilds at $10 parts at $40 over five to ten years or max $4/year
Versused
Replace hub at $50 every 2 to 2 ½ years:
$100+ replace or $10-20 repack at 2 years
To
$300+ replace or $60-120 repack at ten years?
Remember to teflon wax flange spoke holes so spokes/flange is lubed
and sealed from dirt entry.

 

[Qui si parla Campagnolo]

On Jun 29, 7:22 am, AWN <[email protected]> wrote:
> This may sound like a silly question but my experience with working on hubs
> is limited to minor adjustments to cone tension.  I have 2 rear Deore/LX mtb
> hubs that seem to be Œsticking¹ a little as if missing engagement/pawl
> connection.  Is there a Œkit¹ available for rebuilding these hubs or is it
> even worthwhile?  Is it true that the XT versions are far easier to rebuild
> with drop in cartridge bearings?  It seems easier to me that dropping in
> bearings one at a time in a surgically-clean envirmonment.  Anyway, are the
> XTs that much better or do you have other suggestions?  I do fairly
> aggressive XC and very light DH riding.  I don¹t take huge drops or anything
> and for the mostpart I like to be relatively close to the ground.
>
> I am using these hubs with Rhinolite rims and DT Swiss spokes if it makes
> any difference...
>
> Thanks for any advice you can offer based on experience.
> Andrew.

Easy and worthwhile to overhaul them. Take axle out, 10mm allen wrench
and take the freehub body off. Take the rubber seal off the back of
the FH body, flush and oil(I use Mobil One..cheap and doesn't get
thicker in the cold). Clean all places bearing balls live, check cones
for pitting, replace bearing balls(9 1/4 inch each side)..and pitted
cones(easy to find). Use a good grease, any grease(grease is il in
'soap', anything works)..and reassemble..Adjust well, go ride.

 

[datakoll]

Use a good grease, any grease(grease is il in
> 'soap', anything works)..and reassemble..Adjust well, go ride.- Hide quoted text -

grease for mtb or worn hubs? try 'castrol marine' at Wal Castrol is a
major player with R/D. The grease is specifically low temp
applications, water resistant and is slicker than a greased pig in the
Ozarks on July 1.

if you read and library, try finding Bicycle Mag's article on bicycle
costs, from several years back, over a riding lifetime. why the cost
in energy supplements runs to...

 

[landotter]

On Jun 29, 10:47 pm, jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:
> AWN wrote:
> > This may sound like a silly question but my experience with working on
> > hubs is limited to minor adjustments to cone tension. I have 2 rear
> > Deore/LX mtb hubs that seem to be 'sticking' a little as if missing
> > engagement/pawl connection. Is there a 'kit' available for rebuilding
> > these hubs or is it even worthwhile? Is it true that the XT versions
> > are far easier to rebuild with drop in cartridge bearings? It seems
> > easier to me that dropping in bearings one at a time in a
> > surgically-clean envirmonment. Anyway, are the XTs that much better or
> > do you have other suggestions? I do fairly aggressive XC and very light
> > DH riding. I don't take huge drops or anything and for the mostpart I
> > like to be relatively close to the ground.
>
> > I am using these hubs with Rhinolite rims and DT Swiss spokes if it
> > makes any difference...
>
> > Thanks for any advice you can offer based on experience.
> > Andrew.
>
> imo, it's not worth rebuilding those hubs. the price for total
> replacement is low and the quality is not high. simply replace.

Quality not high? All Shimano hubs are well made, though some need TLC
out of the box. LX kit, lubed and adjusted properly, is as nice as any
rider will likely need.

Let's see, $3 in ball bearings and fifteen minutes vs. over a $100 if
I want a new hub laced up at the LBS.

 

[jim beam]

landotter wrote:
> On Jun 29, 10:47 pm, jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:
>> AWN wrote:
>>> This may sound like a silly question but my experience with working on
>>> hubs is limited to minor adjustments to cone tension. I have 2 rear
>>> Deore/LX mtb hubs that seem to be 'sticking' a little as if missing
>>> engagement/pawl connection. Is there a 'kit' available for rebuilding
>>> these hubs or is it even worthwhile? Is it true that the XT versions
>>> are far easier to rebuild with drop in cartridge bearings? It seems
>>> easier to me that dropping in bearings one at a time in a
>>> surgically-clean envirmonment. Anyway, are the XTs that much better or
>>> do you have other suggestions? I do fairly aggressive XC and very light
>>> DH riding. I don't take huge drops or anything and for the mostpart I
>>> like to be relatively close to the ground.
>>> I am using these hubs with Rhinolite rims and DT Swiss spokes if it
>>> makes any difference...
>>> Thanks for any advice you can offer based on experience.
>>> Andrew.
>> imo, it's not worth rebuilding those hubs. the price for total
>> replacement is low and the quality is not high. simply replace.
>
> Quality not high? All Shimano hubs are well made, though some need TLC
> out of the box. LX kit, lubed and adjusted properly, is as nice as any
> rider will likely need.
>
> Let's see, $3 in ball bearings and fifteen minutes vs. over a $100 if
> I want a new hub laced up at the LBS.
>

but replacing bearing balls does nothing for pitted cones. so it's not
just $3.

and what's the cost of having the the lbs replace a freehub body
[according to the op's question] and bearings and cones? shimano pawls
are not readily available. compare apples with apples.

 

[Peter Cole]

jim beam wrote:
> landotter wrote:
>> On Jun 29, 10:47 pm, jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:
>>> AWN wrote:
>>>> This may sound like a silly question but my experience with working on
>>>> hubs is limited to minor adjustments to cone tension. I have 2 rear
>>>> Deore/LX mtb hubs that seem to be 'sticking' a little as if missing
>>>> engagement/pawl connection. Is there a 'kit' available for rebuilding
>>>> these hubs or is it even worthwhile? Is it true that the XT versions
>>>> are far easier to rebuild with drop in cartridge bearings? It seems
>>>> easier to me that dropping in bearings one at a time in a
>>>> surgically-clean envirmonment. Anyway, are the XTs that much better or
>>>> do you have other suggestions? I do fairly aggressive XC and very
>>>> light
>>>> DH riding. I don't take huge drops or anything and for the mostpart I
>>>> like to be relatively close to the ground.
>>>> I am using these hubs with Rhinolite rims and DT Swiss spokes if it
>>>> makes any difference...
>>>> Thanks for any advice you can offer based on experience.
>>>> Andrew.
>>> imo, it's not worth rebuilding those hubs. the price for total
>>> replacement is low and the quality is not high. simply replace.
>>
>> Quality not high? All Shimano hubs are well made, though some need TLC
>> out of the box. LX kit, lubed and adjusted properly, is as nice as any
>> rider will likely need.
>>
>> Let's see, $3 in ball bearings and fifteen minutes vs. over a $100 if
>> I want a new hub laced up at the LBS.
>>
>
> but replacing bearing balls does nothing for pitted cones. so it's not
> just $3.
>
> and what's the cost of having the the lbs replace a freehub body
> [according to the op's question] and bearings and cones? shimano pawls
> are not readily available. compare apples with apples.

I just keep an eye out for LX hubs on sale -- often for $20 or so
(rear). Strip for parts as needed.

 

[landotter]

On Jun 30, 10:40 am, jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:
> landotter wrote:
> > On Jun 29, 10:47 pm, jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> AWN wrote:
> >>> This may sound like a silly question but my experience with working on
> >>> hubs is limited to minor adjustments to cone tension. I have 2 rear
> >>> Deore/LX mtb hubs that seem to be 'sticking' a little as if missing
> >>> engagement/pawl connection. Is there a 'kit' available for rebuilding
> >>> these hubs or is it even worthwhile? Is it true that the XT versions
> >>> are far easier to rebuild with drop in cartridge bearings? It seems
> >>> easier to me that dropping in bearings one at a time in a
> >>> surgically-clean envirmonment. Anyway, are the XTs that much better or
> >>> do you have other suggestions? I do fairly aggressive XC and very light
> >>> DH riding. I don't take huge drops or anything and for the mostpart I
> >>> like to be relatively close to the ground.
> >>> I am using these hubs with Rhinolite rims and DT Swiss spokes if it
> >>> makes any difference...
> >>> Thanks for any advice you can offer based on experience.
> >>> Andrew.
> >> imo, it's not worth rebuilding those hubs. the price for total
> >> replacement is low and the quality is not high. simply replace.
>
> > Quality not high? All Shimano hubs are well made, though some need TLC
> > out of the box. LX kit, lubed and adjusted properly, is as nice as any
> > rider will likely need.
>
> > Let's see, $3 in ball bearings and fifteen minutes vs. over a $100 if
> > I want a new hub laced up at the LBS.
>
> but replacing bearing balls does nothing for pitted cones. so it's not
> just $3.
>
> and what's the cost of having the the lbs replace a freehub body
> [according to the op's question] and bearings and cones? shimano pawls
> are not readily available. compare apples with apples.

Seems like you just want to **** away money for no good reason. The
freehub is most likely just dirty and needs lube--a ten minute job. If
a cone needs replacing, that's $3-5. If the freehub really is hosed,
$30 is still far cheaper and more convenient than building a new
wheel. Really, it's amazing how thick headed you are when it comes to
the wonderful nature of traditional hubs--their inherent modularity
and repairability.

 

[jim beam]

landotter wrote:
> On Jun 30, 10:40 am, jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:
>> landotter wrote:
>>> On Jun 29, 10:47 pm, jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> AWN wrote:
>>>>> This may sound like a silly question but my experience with working on
>>>>> hubs is limited to minor adjustments to cone tension. I have 2 rear
>>>>> Deore/LX mtb hubs that seem to be 'sticking' a little as if missing
>>>>> engagement/pawl connection. Is there a 'kit' available for rebuilding
>>>>> these hubs or is it even worthwhile? Is it true that the XT versions
>>>>> are far easier to rebuild with drop in cartridge bearings? It seems
>>>>> easier to me that dropping in bearings one at a time in a
>>>>> surgically-clean envirmonment. Anyway, are the XTs that much better or
>>>>> do you have other suggestions? I do fairly aggressive XC and very light
>>>>> DH riding. I don't take huge drops or anything and for the mostpart I
>>>>> like to be relatively close to the ground.
>>>>> I am using these hubs with Rhinolite rims and DT Swiss spokes if it
>>>>> makes any difference...
>>>>> Thanks for any advice you can offer based on experience.
>>>>> Andrew.
>>>> imo, it's not worth rebuilding those hubs. the price for total
>>>> replacement is low and the quality is not high. simply replace.
>>> Quality not high? All Shimano hubs are well made, though some need TLC
>>> out of the box. LX kit, lubed and adjusted properly, is as nice as any
>>> rider will likely need.
>>> Let's see, $3 in ball bearings and fifteen minutes vs. over a $100 if
>>> I want a new hub laced up at the LBS.
>> but replacing bearing balls does nothing for pitted cones. so it's not
>> just $3.
>>
>> and what's the cost of having the the lbs replace a freehub body
>> [according to the op's question] and bearings and cones? shimano pawls
>> are not readily available. compare apples with apples.
>
> Seems like you just want to **** away money for no good reason. The
> freehub is most likely just dirty and needs lube--a ten minute job. If
> a cone needs replacing, that's $3-5. If the freehub really is hosed,
> $30 is still far cheaper and more convenient than building a new
> wheel. Really, it's amazing how thick headed you are when it comes to
> the wonderful nature of traditional hubs--their inherent modularity
> and repairability.
>

see peter cole for logic and sensibility.

 

[jim beam]

Peter Cole wrote:
> jim beam wrote:
>> landotter wrote:
>>> On Jun 29, 10:47 pm, jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> AWN wrote:
>>>>> This may sound like a silly question but my experience with working on
>>>>> hubs is limited to minor adjustments to cone tension. I have 2 rear
>>>>> Deore/LX mtb hubs that seem to be 'sticking' a little as if missing
>>>>> engagement/pawl connection. Is there a 'kit' available for rebuilding
>>>>> these hubs or is it even worthwhile? Is it true that the XT versions
>>>>> are far easier to rebuild with drop in cartridge bearings? It seems
>>>>> easier to me that dropping in bearings one at a time in a
>>>>> surgically-clean envirmonment. Anyway, are the XTs that much
>>>>> better or
>>>>> do you have other suggestions? I do fairly aggressive XC and very
>>>>> light
>>>>> DH riding. I don't take huge drops or anything and for the mostpart I
>>>>> like to be relatively close to the ground.
>>>>> I am using these hubs with Rhinolite rims and DT Swiss spokes if it
>>>>> makes any difference...
>>>>> Thanks for any advice you can offer based on experience.
>>>>> Andrew.
>>>> imo, it's not worth rebuilding those hubs. the price for total
>>>> replacement is low and the quality is not high. simply replace.
>>>
>>> Quality not high? All Shimano hubs are well made, though some need TLC
>>> out of the box. LX kit, lubed and adjusted properly, is as nice as any
>>> rider will likely need.
>>>
>>> Let's see, $3 in ball bearings and fifteen minutes vs. over a $100 if
>>> I want a new hub laced up at the LBS.
>>>
>>
>> but replacing bearing balls does nothing for pitted cones. so it's
>> not just $3.
>>
>> and what's the cost of having the the lbs replace a freehub body
>> [according to the op's question] and bearings and cones? shimano
>> pawls are not readily available. compare apples with apples.
>
> I just keep an eye out for LX hubs on sale -- often for $20 or so
> (rear). Strip for parts as needed.

that's what i do!

 

[datakoll]

a few pits here and there is no big deal.
the castrol marine will swaqllow the mess for a year or more
cracked bearings are a big deal as is torn or cracked hub surfaces-bin
toss!!!
the bearing race anround and thru small pits, weras another trail/race
path wears well with castrol and 25 bearings without the bearings
showing excessive distress from that journey.
new cones are always a probability for long hub wear but not
absolutely necessary
if the cones have pits but the hubs are ok, new bearings and grease,
screwed back together will run well until the next repack WHEN THE NEW
CONES ARE ON HAND.

 

[jim beam]

datakoll wrote:
> a few pits here and there is no big deal.
> the castrol marine will swaqllow the mess for a year or more
> cracked bearings are a big deal as is torn or cracked hub surfaces-bin
> toss!!!
> the bearing race anround and thru small pits, weras another trail/race
> path wears well with castrol and 25 bearings without the bearings
> showing excessive distress from that journey.
> new cones are always a probability for long hub wear but not
> absolutely necessary
> if the cones have pits but the hubs are ok, new bearings and grease,
> screwed back together will run well until the next repack WHEN THE NEW
> CONES ARE ON HAND.
>
>
but running pitted cones is disgusting. not only are they rough, they
can break down completely at any moment. then what? walk?

this is why it's best to buy higher end componentry whenever possible.
shimano /do/ differentiate product quality every step of the way. d-a
lasts longer than ultegra lasts longer than 105, etc. it's more than
skin deep. continued replacement of cheap parts seems a waste of time
to me.

 

[landotter]

On Jun 30, 5:39 pm, jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:
> datakoll wrote:
> > a few pits here and there is no big deal.
> > the castrol marine will swaqllow the mess for a year or more
> > cracked bearings are a big deal as is torn or cracked hub surfaces-bin
> > toss!!!
> > the bearing race anround and thru small pits, weras another trail/race
> > path wears well with castrol and 25 bearings without the bearings
> > showing excessive distress from that journey.
> > new cones are always a probability for long hub wear but not
> > absolutely necessary
> > if the cones have pits but the hubs are ok, new bearings and grease,
> > screwed back together will run well until the next repack WHEN THE NEW
> > CONES ARE ON HAND.
>
> but running pitted cones is disgusting. not only are they rough, they
> can break down completely at any moment. then what? walk?
>
> this is why it's best to buy higher end componentry whenever possible.
> shimano /do/ differentiate product quality every step of the way. d-a
> lasts longer than ultegra lasts longer than 105.

Not really. Once you get to 105, it's mainly about weight. Bearings
are identical or close. I'd never think of pissing away for more than
105 kit. The only thing DA I own are some vintage chrome cable clamps.
Man, do they clamp! I've never seen cables clamped so efficiently! The
only thing to watch out for with lower end Shimano are the hubs--
repack first thing with 25 grade balls and you're good to go. I've got
a Mavic/2200, meaning the hubs are crapper than Sora, wheelset that
turns like buttah after 10K--but you bet your ass I serviced the hubs
first thing. Mind, I'm not racing on such kit.