A
A Muzi
Guest
AWN wrote:
> Andres,
>
> Thanks for your comments. To answer your questions, it is a disc braking
> system so running with them this way isn't an option. As for sitting in the
> frame centered beforehand, yes, the wheel was centered beforehand. I had a
> feeling it had something to do with the axle spacing/centering. Everything
> I read suggests that the protruding axle on either side should match in
> terms of how many threads are exposed. I'm thinking that perhaps there are
> exceptions to this rule and perhaps that's why I have an issue. I wish I
> took my own advice an 'landmarked' the threads before disassembly. As for
> how far the wheel is off center, it's towards the disc-side by about the
> width of the tire (2.3-2.5" I would guess). I guess the name of the game is
> to expose more threads on the side it's favouring right? It seems a stupid
> question and I do apoloigze but my new newborn boy has had us awake for days
> now and the brain isn't always as snappy as it could be.
>
> Thanks.
> Andrew.
>
>
>
> in article [email protected],
> [email protected] at [email protected] wrote on 7/17/07 8:25 AM:
>
>> If the wheels were centered before you unassembled the hubs, and know
>> they are off centered, it is very likely that you tightened the cones
>> and nuts slightly off and that now, they are not sitting in the
>> dropouts exactly how they did before. At the end of each axle, there
>> are the nuts with a little free axles space for the wheels to sit on
>> the dropouts, if the space varies, then, the wheels may move a few
>> millimeters in either direction, sitting the wheels off-center. I am
>> curious, how much off center are the wheels? As long as they are
>> straight, if they are a little off, it is no big deal. all you have to
>> do is re-center the brakes, if they are the non disk type. Otherwise,
>> see in which direction the wheel has moved, and then, readjust the
>> cones and nuts, so there is a couple of millimeters more of exposed
>> axle on that side, and a few less on the opposite side.
Can't be the problem. There is absolutely no effect from the axle
protruding (or not protruding) into the frame end unless it is long
enough to foul the skewer. Think about that a second.
The skewer clamps its raised/knurled face on the outside of the frame
end. The axle locknuts (which are also raised or knurled) bite into the
end's inside face when the skewer is closed [1].
If you trimmed the axle flush to the locknut face, it would be mildly
inconvenient to center a wheel but perfectly functional.
Professional mechanics always disassemble from the left, leaving the
right side (gear spacing) untouched. A replacement axle set is set up to
match the right side spacing then matched to whatever spacers may be on
the left. Scrambling left and right axle components will make a botch of
your axle spacing - do you recall what was where originally? I suspect
you have moved a spacer from one side to the other or possibly swapped a
cone (Shimano are different side to side) laterally.
[1] In fact, some newer axle designs with broad flush faces will slip in
a traditional horizontal end for that very reason- they are neither
raised nor knurled. Without such, the skewer's cam develops insufficient
force to hold the wheel under pedal pressure.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971
> Andres,
>
> Thanks for your comments. To answer your questions, it is a disc braking
> system so running with them this way isn't an option. As for sitting in the
> frame centered beforehand, yes, the wheel was centered beforehand. I had a
> feeling it had something to do with the axle spacing/centering. Everything
> I read suggests that the protruding axle on either side should match in
> terms of how many threads are exposed. I'm thinking that perhaps there are
> exceptions to this rule and perhaps that's why I have an issue. I wish I
> took my own advice an 'landmarked' the threads before disassembly. As for
> how far the wheel is off center, it's towards the disc-side by about the
> width of the tire (2.3-2.5" I would guess). I guess the name of the game is
> to expose more threads on the side it's favouring right? It seems a stupid
> question and I do apoloigze but my new newborn boy has had us awake for days
> now and the brain isn't always as snappy as it could be.
>
> Thanks.
> Andrew.
>
>
>
> in article [email protected],
> [email protected] at [email protected] wrote on 7/17/07 8:25 AM:
>
>> If the wheels were centered before you unassembled the hubs, and know
>> they are off centered, it is very likely that you tightened the cones
>> and nuts slightly off and that now, they are not sitting in the
>> dropouts exactly how they did before. At the end of each axle, there
>> are the nuts with a little free axles space for the wheels to sit on
>> the dropouts, if the space varies, then, the wheels may move a few
>> millimeters in either direction, sitting the wheels off-center. I am
>> curious, how much off center are the wheels? As long as they are
>> straight, if they are a little off, it is no big deal. all you have to
>> do is re-center the brakes, if they are the non disk type. Otherwise,
>> see in which direction the wheel has moved, and then, readjust the
>> cones and nuts, so there is a couple of millimeters more of exposed
>> axle on that side, and a few less on the opposite side.
Can't be the problem. There is absolutely no effect from the axle
protruding (or not protruding) into the frame end unless it is long
enough to foul the skewer. Think about that a second.
The skewer clamps its raised/knurled face on the outside of the frame
end. The axle locknuts (which are also raised or knurled) bite into the
end's inside face when the skewer is closed [1].
If you trimmed the axle flush to the locknut face, it would be mildly
inconvenient to center a wheel but perfectly functional.
Professional mechanics always disassemble from the left, leaving the
right side (gear spacing) untouched. A replacement axle set is set up to
match the right side spacing then matched to whatever spacers may be on
the left. Scrambling left and right axle components will make a botch of
your axle spacing - do you recall what was where originally? I suspect
you have moved a spacer from one side to the other or possibly swapped a
cone (Shimano are different side to side) laterally.
[1] In fact, some newer axle designs with broad flush faces will slip in
a traditional horizontal end for that very reason- they are neither
raised nor knurled. Without such, the skewer's cam develops insufficient
force to hold the wheel under pedal pressure.
--
Andrew Muzi
www.yellowjersey.org
Open every day since 1 April, 1971