Is my quick release skewer too long?

[Gooserider]

I just purchased a bike online, and received it today. The assembly process
went pretty smoothly, and I broke out my Bicycling repair guide to help me
tune the derailleurs and brakes. Everything's running fine, but the front QR
skewer sticks out approximately 4mm on the drive side. What am I doing
wrong? I've removed it and replaced it several times, but always end up with
the same result. Thanks!

Mike

 

[Weisse Luft]

Gooserider wrote:
> I just purchased a bike online, and received it today. The assembly
> process went pretty smoothly, and I broke out my Bicycling repair guide
> to help me tune the derailleurs and brakes. Everything's running fine,
> but the front QR skewer sticks out approximately 4mm on the drive side.
> What am I doing wrong? I've removed it and replaced it several times,
> but always end up with the same result. Thanks!
> Mike



Skewers can be too long. Why? The OLD (Over Locknut Dimension) is the
same on the front and is either 130 (road) or 135 (mountain) for single
bikes. The difference is the thickness of the dropouts. Many forks and
frames made of aluminum are much thicker than steel.

That bit sticking out can be a hazard so its best to mark it and trim
the excess off. Put the nut on BEFORE you cut, screwing the nut all the
way down and carefully trim off the excess. File burrs and chamfer. You
should be able to take the nut off and put it back on with no troubles.



--

 

[Mike Jacoubowsky]

> I just purchased a bike online, and received it today. The assembly
process
> went pretty smoothly, and I broke out my Bicycling repair guide to help me
> tune the derailleurs and brakes. Everything's running fine, but the front
QR
> skewer sticks out approximately 4mm on the drive side. What am I doing
> wrong? I've removed it and replaced it several times, but always end up
with
> the same result. Thanks!

Are you talking about the threaded part of the rod that goes from one side
of the wheel to the other? If that's sticking out past the adjusting nut
(on the opposite side of the lever that you tighten the wheel in place
with), that's not a big deal, and not an indication of a problem with how
you installed it.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

 

[ZeeExSixAre]

> Skewers can be too long. Why? The OLD (Over Locknut Dimension) is the
> same on the front and is either 130 (road) or 135 (mountain) for

That's for the rear. 100mm for the front, but you probably knew that.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

 

[Mike Jacoubowsky]

> That bit sticking out can be a hazard so its best to mark it and trim
> the excess off. Put the nut on BEFORE you cut, screwing the nut all the
> way down and carefully trim off the excess. File burrs and chamfer. You
> should be able to take the nut off and put it back on with no troubles.

If the quick release nut has aluminum threads, I wouldn't do that. I'd find
a suitable steel nut to thread down first, cut the quick release rod, and
then unthread the nut (which will clean up the threads on its way off).

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

 

[Gooserider]

"Mike Jacoubowsky" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> Are you talking about the threaded part of the rod that goes from one
side
> of the wheel to the other? If that's sticking out past the adjusting nut
> (on the opposite side of the lever that you tighten the wheel in place
> with), that's not a big deal, and not an indication of a problem with how
> you installed it.


Yes, it's sticking out past the adjusting nut. Should I break out the Dremel
and cut it off?


Mike

 

[Steve Knight]

if you cut it off then sand or grind or file a nice flat end on it then hit it
with a wire wheel or remove the burr you don't need the nut. I used to round the
edge but the flat grind works far better. I do this hundreds of times a year and
it works really well.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.

 

[Werehatrack]

On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 02:55:52 GMT, "Gooserider"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I just purchased a bike online, and received it today. The assembly process
>went pretty smoothly, and I broke out my Bicycling repair guide to help me
>tune the derailleurs and brakes. Everything's running fine, but the front QR
>skewer sticks out approximately 4mm on the drive side. What am I doing
>wrong? I've removed it and replaced it several times, but always end up with
>the same result. Thanks!

That's what happens when a bike maker uses "one size fits all" skewers
instead of buying the ones that are correctly sized for the
application. This is a common shortcoming in mass-market bikes sold
online. Trim the skewer to prevent injury; others have posted good
instructions on how to do it.

Just out of curiosity, was it a Motobecane?

 

[Werehatrack]

On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 16:00:19 GMT, Steve Knight
<[email protected]> wrote:

>if you cut it off then sand or grind or file a nice flat end on it then hit it
>with a wire wheel or remove the burr you don't need the nut. I used to round the
>edge but the flat grind works far better. I do this hundreds of times a year and
>it works really well.

ITYM that the skewer can be cut without needing to leave the nut on it
as a final clean-up tool. The nut is, obviously, still needed for the
skewer to work.

Personally, though, while I mostly agree with your assessment (as I
conclude it was meant), I still leave the nut on when shortening
something threaded, if at all possible. When I think I'm done, if the
nut binds coming off, I find out that I missed something *before* it
becomes a problem.

 

[Gooserider]

"Werehatrack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 02:55:52 GMT, "Gooserider"
> <[email protected]> wrote:
>
> >I just purchased a bike online, and received it today. The assembly
process
> >went pretty smoothly, and I broke out my Bicycling repair guide to help
me
> >tune the derailleurs and brakes. Everything's running fine, but the front
QR
> >skewer sticks out approximately 4mm on the drive side. What am I doing
> >wrong? I've removed it and replaced it several times, but always end up
with
> >the same result. Thanks!
>
> That's what happens when a bike maker uses "one size fits all" skewers
> instead of buying the ones that are correctly sized for the
> application. This is a common shortcoming in mass-market bikes sold
> online. Trim the skewer to prevent injury; others have posted good
> instructions on how to do it.
>
> Just out of curiosity, was it a Motobecane?

Nope, it's an Ibex. Bought a "flat bar road bike" to use as a commuter/town
bike/beater. The price was right---$299 for a bike with rack and fender
eyelets. I have two other bikes, a Trek and a Schwinn, but this bike is
going to be locked to a rack a lot, and don't want to spend big bucks for
something that could be stolen or vandalized. I believe in supporting my LBS
but sometimes there are other options.

Mike

 

[Steve Knight]

>Personally, though, while I mostly agree with your assessment (as I
>conclude it was meant), I still leave the nut on when shortening
>something threaded, if at all possible. When I think I'm done, if the
>nut binds coming off, I find out that I missed something *before* it
>becomes a problem.

but if the nut is softer you may chew it up when doing it. then life is even
more of a pain (G)

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes
Custom made wooden planes at reasonable prices
See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For prices and ordering instructions.