Is my quick release skewer too long?

[Gooserider]

I just purchased a bike online, and received it today. The
assembly process went pretty smoothly, and I broke out my
Bicycling repair guide to help me tune the derailleurs and
brakes. Everything's running fine, but the front QR skewer
sticks out approximately 4mm on the drive side. What am I
doing wrong? I've removed it and replaced it several times,
but always end up with the same result. Thanks!

Mike

 

[Weisse Luft]

Originally posted by Gooserider
I just purchased a bike online, and received it today. The
assembly process went pretty smoothly, and I broke out my
Bicycling repair guide to help me tune the derailleurs and
brakes. Everything's running fine, but the front QR skewer
sticks out approximately 4mm on the drive side. What am I
doing wrong? I've removed it and replaced it several times,
but always end up with the same result. Thanks!

Mike

Skewers can be too long. Why? The OLD (Over Locknut Dimension) is the same on the front and is either 130 (road) or 135 (mountain) for single bikes. The difference is the thickness of the dropouts. Many forks and frames made of aluminum are much thicker than steel.

That bit sticking out can be a hazard so its best to mark it and trim the excess off. Put the nut on BEFORE you cut, screwing the nut all the way down and carefully trim off the excess. File burrs and chamfer. You should be able to take the nut off and put it back on with no troubles.

 

[Mike Jacoubowsk]

> I just purchased a bike online, and received it today. The
> assembly
process
> went pretty smoothly, and I broke out my Bicycling repair
> guide to help me tune the derailleurs and brakes.
> Everything's running fine, but the front
QR
> skewer sticks out approximately 4mm on the drive side.
> What am I doing wrong? I've removed it and replaced it
> several times, but always end up
with
> the same result. Thanks!

Are you talking about the threaded part of the rod that goes
from one side of the wheel to the other? If that's sticking
out past the adjusting nut (on the opposite side of the
lever that you tighten the wheel in place with), that's not
a big deal, and not an indication of a problem with how you
installed it.

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

 

[Zeeexsixare]

> Skewers can be too long. Why? The OLD (Over Locknut
> Dimension) is the same on the front and is either 130
> (road) or 135 (mountain) for

That's for the rear. 100mm for the front, but you probably
knew that.

--
Phil, Squid-in-Training

 

[Mike Jacoubowsk]

> That bit sticking out can be a hazard so its best to mark
> it and trim the excess off. Put the nut on BEFORE you cut,
> screwing the nut all the way down and carefully trim off
> the excess. File burrs and chamfer. You should be able to
> take the nut off and put it back on with no troubles.

If the quick release nut has aluminum threads, I wouldn't do
that. I'd find a suitable steel nut to thread down first,
cut the quick release rod, and then unthread the nut (which
will clean up the threads on its way off).

--Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReactionBicycles.com

 

[Gooserider]

"Mike Jacoubowsky" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>> Are you talking about the threaded part of the rod that
>> goes from one
side
> of the wheel to the other? If that's sticking out past
> the adjusting nut (on the opposite side of the lever that
> you tighten the wheel in place with), that's not a big
> deal, and not an indication of a problem with how you
> installed it.

Yes, it's sticking out past the adjusting nut. Should I
break out the Dremel and cut it off?

Mike

 

[Steve Knight]

if you cut it off then sand or grind or file a nice flat end
on it then hit it with a wire wheel or remove the burr you
don't need the nut. I used to round the edge but the flat
grind works far better. I do this hundreds of times a year
and it works really well.

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes
at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For
prices and ordering instructions.

 

[Werehatrack]

On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 02:55:52 GMT, "Gooserider"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>I just purchased a bike online, and received it today. The
>assembly process went pretty smoothly, and I broke out my
>Bicycling repair guide to help me tune the derailleurs and
>brakes. Everything's running fine, but the front QR skewer
>sticks out approximately 4mm on the drive side. What am I
>doing wrong? I've removed it and replaced it several times,
>but always end up with the same result. Thanks!

That's what happens when a bike maker uses "one size fits
all" skewers instead of buying the ones that are
correctly sized for the application. This is a common
shortcoming in mass-market bikes sold online. Trim the
skewer to prevent injury; others have posted good
instructions on how to do it.

Just out of curiosity, was it a Motobecane?

 

[Werehatrack]

On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 16:00:19 GMT, Steve Knight
<[email protected]> wrote:

>if you cut it off then sand or grind or file a nice flat
>end on it then hit it with a wire wheel or remove the burr
>you don't need the nut. I used to round the edge but the
>flat grind works far better. I do this hundreds of times a
>year and it works really well.

ITYM that the skewer can be cut without needing to leave the
nut on it as a final clean-up tool. The nut is, obviously,
still needed for the skewer to work.

Personally, though, while I mostly agree with your
assessment (as I conclude it was meant), I still leave the
nut on when shortening something threaded, if at all
possible. When I think I'm done, if the nut binds coming
off, I find out that I missed something *before* it becomes
a problem.

 

[Gooserider]

"Werehatrack" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Fri, 18 Jun 2004 02:55:52 GMT, "Gooserider" <gooserider@mouse-
> potato.com> wrote:
>
> >I just purchased a bike online, and received it today.
> >The assembly
process
> >went pretty smoothly, and I broke out my Bicycling repair
> >guide to help
me
> >tune the derailleurs and brakes. Everything's running
> >fine, but the front
QR
> >skewer sticks out approximately 4mm on the drive side.
> >What am I doing wrong? I've removed it and replaced it
> >several times, but always end up
with
> >the same result. Thanks!
>
> That's what happens when a bike maker uses "one size fits
> all" skewers instead of buying the ones that are
> correctly sized for the application. This is a common
> shortcoming in mass-market bikes sold online. Trim the
> skewer to prevent injury; others have posted good
> instructions on how to do it.
>
> Just out of curiosity, was it a Motobecane?

Nope, it's an Ibex. Bought a "flat bar road bike" to use as
a commuter/town bike/beater. The price was right---$299 for
a bike with rack and fender eyelets. I have two other bikes,
a Trek and a Schwinn, but this bike is going to be locked to
a rack a lot, and don't want to spend big bucks for
something that could be stolen or vandalized. I believe in
supporting my LBS but sometimes there are other options.

Mike

 

[Steve Knight]

>Personally, though, while I mostly agree with your
>assessment (as I conclude it was meant), I still leave the
>nut on when shortening something threaded, if at all
>possible. When I think I'm done, if the nut binds coming
>off, I find out that I missed something *before* it becomes
>a problem.

but if the nut is softer you may chew it up when doing it.
then life is even more of a pain (G)

--
Knight-Toolworks & Custom Planes Custom made wooden planes
at reasonable prices See http://www.knight-toolworks.com For
prices and ordering instructions.