Is the state bicycle shockwave fixie worth it? (urgent!)
- Thread starter Kaden Golda
- Start date
Some of my answers are out of phase with your posts ....
AT THIS POINT IN TIME, I do NOT think that you should return the bike
And, rather than pony up $128.75 for the projected return shipping fee + $48.75 for the "restocking fee" I think your silk purse option is to buy a frame which has a 60cm top tube & 1 1/8" head tube dimension ...
You can choose either a Large Hardtail MTB frame which has a 60cm top tube or a Road frame which has a 60cm top tube ...
And then, assemble the components on the alternate frame ...
Steel frames can be respaced to 120mm ...
OR, you can use spacers on the rear axle.
OR, you can use spacers on the rear axle.
I think that you might be able to sell the bare STATE bicycle frame AND fork for $200+ ... maybe start at a lower price ... OR, use the fork on the new frame & just sell the frame, separately ...
You could start the opening bid price at whatever the alternate frame costs you (I haven't checked NASHBAR in a long time, but they used to sell their NOS frames periodically at fairly reasonable prices ... almost cheap).
You could start the opening bid price at whatever the alternate frame costs you (I haven't checked NASHBAR in a long time, but they used to sell their NOS frames periodically at fairly reasonable prices ... almost cheap).
BTW. Instead of DROP handlebars, you could use COW HORN handlebars ....
So you're saying forgo the return and updgrade the frame and other parts when i get the cash? Does dealing with what i have and then selling the frame lets say 1-2 years down the line and getting a bigger one sound good? Im not super rich and am only a highschool student so I save up for college and only use $20 a paycheck.
Looks likenits 57.5 so im good.on that. It atrives tommorow! Cant wait! Thanks!
FWIW ...
Yes ...
The arithmetic ($128.75) dictates that you do NOT return the bike ...
By my reckoning, the two, immediate options which are available to you are ...The arithmetic ($128.75) dictates that you do NOT return the bike ...
- keep the frame
- buy-and-install a longer stem
- probably 110mm-to-120mm for someone who is your height if you are going to use the handelbars which are supplied with the bike
- ride it
- buy-and-install a longer stem
- OR, immediately try to re-sell the bare frame/-set
- 4130 CroMoly TIG welded steel
- custom geometry
- 68mm English (BSC) Threaded Bottom Bracket Shell
- 1-1/8' Steer Tube
- Horizontal Track Dropouts
- 120mm Rear Spacing
- Accepts 700x35 tires
A 50mm stem is about as short as one can buy ...
If you feel that your old MTB is too small, then a 63cm total reach which is probably at least 1cm shorter than your old MTB's combined virtual top tube + stem length is going to really seem to be too small ....
If you feel that your old MTB is too small, then a 63cm total reach which is probably at least 1cm shorter than your old MTB's combined virtual top tube + stem length is going to really seem to be too small ....
Think about it.
BTW. I think you need to try to get a a better understanding of frame sizing ...
While there are commonly accepted parameters which are frequently used as a starting point, frame sizing may be more of an art than a "science" ...
Regardless, you seem to be ignoring that the 58cm top tube is the starting point for a Drop Bar bike ...
FYI. There are numerous, used MTB frames which have a 60cm top tube on eBay for less than $!00 ... many will have vertical rear dropouts, but that is a minor issue which is readily resolved ...Regardless, you seem to be ignoring that the 58cm top tube is the starting point for a Drop Bar bike ...
Consider that FLAT BAR bikes are spec'd with top tubes which are longer than DROP BAR bikes ... a large part of the reason is because there is ZERO forward reach on a Flat handlebar.
If you want to use the frame that is coming, you will probably want BOTH a longer stem AND a Drop handlebar (42cm-or-wider).
et cetera ...
et cetera ...
et cetera.
I do the option of a 120mm stem which I am seeing for $30-$60 but right now I will just ride it how it is after assembled by me. Thanks for the help and I pray the bike will work for me stock. I hope I could give you something more than just a thanks!
HMmmm ...
FWIW. You should be able to put some spacers on the new rear wheel's axles and mount it in your MTB's frame ....
The 700c wheel should also fit your MTB's front fork ...
Adjust the rear derailleur so that it aligns the upper Pulley Wheel with the sprocket ...
Adjust the front derailleur so it is on the middle chainring.
Now, take your MTB with the Shockwave wheels mounted to an (¿almost?) empty parking lot (or any open space) and ride around a bit to see how cramped you do-or-don't feel on the bike ...
With the understanding that I do NOT know what "tricks" you hope to do with the bike, I have to believe that you may want a neutral reach which the 50mm stem approximates relative to the front wheel's axle ...
There is nothing wrong with an upright riding position ...
There is nothing wrong with an upright riding position ...
And so, the 50mm stem may be just right ...
Regardless, while a 120mm stem (that still may be a little too short for someone who is your height on that size frame unless you also use a Drop handlebar) may put you in a relatively comfortable position for regular riding, it could make some "tricks" impossible.
FWIW. You should be able to put some spacers on the new rear wheel's axles and mount it in your MTB's frame ....
The 700c wheel should also fit your MTB's front fork ...
The front and rear brakes on your MTB will be useless since the pads won't be able to contact the rim ... but, the FGFS Shockwave doesn't have brakes, so it will effectively be a similar experience ...
WITH a possible limitation as to how much back pedaling due to the intrusion of the rear derailleur ...
Regardless, the rear derailleur will impart a slight lag in the responsiveness of any back pedaling that you will be doing ...
Regardless, the rear derailleur will impart a slight lag in the responsiveness of any back pedaling that you will be doing ...
THAT may be most important to be aware of when you are trying to stop!
Adjust the rear derailleur so that it aligns the upper Pulley Wheel with the sprocket ...
Adjust the front derailleur so it is on the middle chainring.
The object of the "exercise" is to see if you can live with the slightly under-sized frame ...
If your MTB has a 1 1/8" threadless steerer, then you can ALSO mount the new stem & handlebar on your MTB to get a sense of the balance if-or-when you are pivoting on the front wheel vs. how a bike pivots with a longer stem.
BTW. Heifitz could probably make a student violin sound exceptional; but, that doesn't mean it is the right instrument for the average person ... so, while a tall-or-taller than you are may be adroit with the "one size fits all" bike, it may-or-may-not be right for you ...If your MTB has a 1 1/8" threadless steerer, then you can ALSO mount the new stem & handlebar on your MTB to get a sense of the balance if-or-when you are pivoting on the front wheel vs. how a bike pivots with a longer stem.
OR, you can mount the new fork, headset, stem, handlebar on your MTB frame to get a sense of the balance when you are attempting to pivot on the front wheel ...
BECAUSE, with the understanding that "test" exercise is not perfect for you since you are judging an isolated aspect of how this-or-that on the bike is affected by small-or-large changes, if you can perceive-or-appreciate the difference in how you can handle the pivoting with your MTB with the different length stems (i.e., the current configuration with your MTB vs. your MTB with the 50mm stem) then you may be able to anticipate if you think that you can-or-want-to manage the Shockwave with a longer stem.
Of course, if your MTB has a 1 1/8" threadless stem, unless it is OS, then you can mount it on the assembled Shockwave for a further test ...BECAUSE, with the understanding that "test" exercise is not perfect for you since you are judging an isolated aspect of how this-or-that on the bike is affected by small-or-large changes, if you can perceive-or-appreciate the difference in how you can handle the pivoting with your MTB with the different length stems (i.e., the current configuration with your MTB vs. your MTB with the 50mm stem) then you may be able to anticipate if you think that you can-or-want-to manage the Shockwave with a longer stem.
BUT, do this test last because the point of sorting out the limitations of a longer stem is to see if you should re-sell the frame AS NEW when it will have 2x the value vs. selling it as a USED frame.
ON THE OTHER HAND, my reservations on the frame's size may be unwarranted.
