Is this a decent deal on a Powertap SL?



mattv2099

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Jul 19, 2004
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http://aebike.com/site/page.cfm?PageID=30&SKU=WE8031

I think I'm going to buy that once my tax return arrives.

Is it a good deal? Is that a quality wheel build? I don't know anything about that rim or the vendor.

It says it comes with 'software.' I assume that's some crappy software and I'll still have to buy cyclingpeaks...

Any comments are welcome.


thanks,

matt
 
mattv2099 said:
http://aebike.com/site/page.cfm?PageID=30&SKU=WE8031

I think I'm going to buy that once my tax return arrives.

Is it a good deal? Is that a quality wheel build? I don't know anything about that rim or the vendor.

It says it comes with 'software.' I assume that's some crappy software and I'll still have to buy cyclingpeaks...

Any comments are welcome.


thanks,

matt

quality makes good midlevel stuff, not bad not great, probably pretty tough set up.

I've owned the PT and SRM's and for about $200 more you could probably find an SRM amature on ebay that you could race on. Either way would be a good deal.

The way I see it, most people get the PT because it works great and gets you into the 'power world', but in the back of your mind you really want an SRM but think they are too expensive. With the tax return coming, save the middle step and just splurge (or save) and get the SRM. You won't regret it.
 
be a little wary of aebike. I, and I know a lot of others lately, have ordered stuff that was never delivered, no call returned, no emails answered.

call me paranoid, but hey, its a thousand bucks.
 
mattv2099 said:
http://aebike.com/site/page.cfm?PageID=30&SKU=WE8031

I think I'm going to buy that once my tax return arrives.

Is it a good deal? Is that a quality wheel build? I don't know anything about that rim or the vendor.

It says it comes with 'software.' I assume that's some crappy software and I'll still have to buy cyclingpeaks...

Any comments are welcome.


thanks,

matt
That's where I got mine. It works as advertised, was shipped promptly, and they were helpful (somewhat more so than Saris, actually) when I was having technical difficulties. YMMV, of course. It is not a very nice wheel, and I'm not completely spoiled (e.g., I've never owned a carbon wheel, or dedicated race wheels of any sort, for that matter). Heavy and egregiously non-aero. Fine for training, of course, but I've tried to mostly ride "compromise" wheels that are ok for training and ok for racing. I kind of wish I saved my pennies a little longer and gotten a better wheel.
 
I bought mine from AEbike, i got it in 5 days no problems works great. only thing i had to have wheel trued, it was straight when i got it but after a few rides it went out of true. i think it's a good deal being a SL hub and cpu goes for around $1200. as far as quality,not to crappy and not high end either worth the $ IMO.
 
I see guys saying that this online shop has done OK. The search I did indicated the shop has quite a few alter egos for the same website domain, so buyer beware. No negative comment, just couldn't figure out why beyondbikes.com had a similar address, but I'm no internet guy.

Secondly, both the DT rim and Open rims with PT's are outsourced by either Saris or the distributor for wheelbuilding so the shops aren't hand-building those wheels, unless its a rare exception and would likey cost more. That should also mean that the wheel-building is consistent, good or bad.

I have been told by my LBS and USCF certified coach that he recommends the 32 hole Open or DT rim equivalent to build up a PT. He didn't like using a smaller spoke count for reliability reasons.

He also tended to recommend train heavy, race lite. That is, not using an exotic Zipp or other wheel because it is a poor compromise. Race wheels to race, training wheels to train (at least for important races).

I compromised and went with the PT SL vs. Pro w/DT rim, since the Open wheels were on backorder because Saris orders in batches. Mine is due tomorrow so I'll see if I can put the info. from this site to good use.
 
PSUcycling said:
I've owned the PT and SRM's and for about $200 more you could probably find an SRM amature on ebay that you could race on. Either way would be a good deal.

The way I see it, most people get the PT because it works great and gets you into the 'power world', but in the back of your mind you really want an SRM but think they are too expensive.


SRM Amateur accuracy +/- 5%.

Powertap SL Accuracy +/- 1.5%.
 
Update:


So I ended up buying this wheel. Actually, same wheel and build but from a different vender over ebay for 1,075$. I chose to go with a highly rated power seller on ebay rather than a sketchy website.

The wheel worked excellently for the first week before it went way out of true. I had the spokes properly tensioned but it went way out of true again in one ride. Again we tensioned and again it went way out of true. At this point we decided (the LBS and I) that the rim was toast.

I then had the LBS rebuild the wheel using the rim out of my American Classic 350 wheelset. Now the wheel is awesome. Looks great and I have a matching front wheel. It's lighter even. And through all of this I haven't missed a workout with the power meter. The LBS has had extreme quick turnover for me (they rule).

The problem with the original wheel build is that the spokes were too long. It was a quality wheelhouse build and the ebay seller I bought it from got it from QBP.

But it's all good and I'm rather happy now. It looks better and is lighter with the american classic rim.

Perhaps I could have saved 125$ if I just bought the powertap hub system and had the LBS build this wheel in this configuration in the first place. But, hey, now I know. So in the end it cost me 1075$ for the original wheel, 15$ for all the truings and tensionings from the LBS, and 50$ for the spokes+nipples+wheel build. And I had to sacrifice my rear AMclassic wheel which I was never going to use but could have sold for small wad of $$. I suppose the next powertap I buy I will just get it from my LBS and have them build it. It was all worth it though. In 2 weeks of testing and training with power I'm completely happy with my decision.

amwheels.JPG
 
mattv2099 said:
Update:

The wheel worked excellently for the first week before it went way out of true. I had the spokes properly tensioned but it went way out of true again in one ride. Again we tensioned and again it went way out of true. At this point we decided (the LBS and I) that the rim was toast.
Hmm, I just bought a PT SL on a DT Swiss rim built by QBP too. Mine was purchased on eBay brand new and the wheel has a QBP serial number sheet stapled to the spokes. Just came in yesterday and have it half installed (how the heck do you get down to 1/2" clearance on that little cadence sensor?). Will be watching for the true issue you are talking about. Curious if you ever contacted QBP to see if they would do anything about the wheel issue?
 
I have the DT swiss wheel and have to have a new rim. after having it trued 5 times the conclusion is it's junk.
 
zaskar said:
I have the DT swiss wheel and have to have a new rim. after having it trued 5 times the conclusion is it's junk.
Hmm, interesting. I see a lot of good reviews for DT Swiss wheels, which I think use the same rims. Perhaps the issue here is all related to the folks buidling the PT wheels using DT Swiss components. Was yours a Quality Built Wheel as wheel?
 
zaskar said:
I have the DT swiss wheel and have to have a new rim. after having it trued 5 times the conclusion is it's junk.
My LBS concluded that the rim is fine. The wheel build was bad as they used spokes that were too long which resulted in us unable to get enough tension on the spokes.
 
It's not the DT Swiss rim, it's the build. "Quality" builds are anything but quality.
I have a PT SL/ 28 2x CX-Rays/ DT RR 1.1 done by my LBS (wheelbuilder there has built over 3000 sets of wheels) and it is bombproof. Have 4500 miles on it since November.
 
jeffst said:
Hmm, I just bought a PT SL on a DT Swiss rim built by QBP too. Mine was purchased on eBay brand new and the wheel has a QBP serial number sheet stapled to the spokes. Just came in yesterday and have it half installed (how the heck do you get down to 1/2" clearance on that little cadence sensor?). Will be watching for the true issue you are talking about. Curious if you ever contacted QBP to see if they would do anything about the wheel issue?
I never contacted QBP or Quality. I'm happy now with the new build.

I bought the item through ebay at a discount. As far as I know, selling QBP goods on ebay at discounts is against QBP policies so I doubt they would want to help me.
 
mattv2099 said:
My LBS concluded that the rim is fine. The wheel build was bad as they used spokes that were too long which resulted in us unable to get enough tension on the spokes.


Ok correction, i don't know if it is the rim or the spokes or both. all i know is the wheel won't stay true, so i don't want any part of the wheel. i contacted vendor and now waiting for Wheel House to get back to me. mean while LBS is building me a new wheel.
 
zaskar said:
Ok correction, i don't know if it is the rim or the spokes or both. all i know is the wheel won't stay true, so i don't want any part of the wheel. i contacted vendor and now waiting for Wheel House to get back to me. mean while LBS is building me a new wheel.
Let us know how that goes. I may take my wheel down to the LBS and ask them to look at the tensioning/length of the spokes. I guess worst case would be to have them re-build the wheel with new spokes using the same rim.
 
Hand-built wheels are great - if the builder knows what they're doing. And actually, I think the Quality wheels are built by machine. For other prospective PT SL buyers reading this thread - if your LBS doesn't have a solid, experienced wheelbuilder and you are forced to buy online, I'd recommend going with someone like Troy Watson www.ligerowheels.com or Richard Sawris www.wheelbuilder.com . Their prices are competitive and, as you can tell from this thread, it's worth doing right the first time.

FWIW, I got bored this afternoon and weighed all my wheelsets. (Tapering, and have too much extra time/ energy!) My PT SL pair weighs 1580gms - with rim tape. Was considering using my Ksyrium rear wheel for some target races next month, but don't think 30g outweighs losing the data. :cool:
 
peterpen said:
FWIW, I got bored this afternoon and weighed all my wheelsets. (Tapering, and have too much extra time/ energy!) My PT SL pair weighs 1580gms - with rim tape. Was considering using my Ksyrium rear wheel for some target races next month, but don't think 30g outweighs losing the data. :cool:
1580g is very good.

I just weighed my PT sl wheelset and it's 1613g without rim tape and skewers.
 

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