Is this a good deal (Specialized)??

1two said:

I'm keen to get into mountainbiking and am after a bike to commute to work (5km) and ride recreationally on weekends.

A friend of mine is offering me his Specialized Rockhopper Comp (2006) details here.

It's had only about 6 months use, and has been sitting around for over a year after he upgraded to a dual suspension.

Cost him $900AU, selling for $400AU. What are these bikes like? Sound like a good deal?

Is your friend approximately the same size that you are?

Are you planning on riding with your friend OR are you going to go off on your own, initially?

I only have a hardtail, but if you are planning on riding with your friend on a regular basis AND he has deemed a full suspension bike is better suited for the particular terrain that he likes to ride across, then you may be an unhappy camper OR become one heck of a rider!

Ask your friend to allow you to test ride BOTH of his bikes over the same terrain ... both easy & intermediate ... see what the difference is between the two bikes.

An aluminum frame is a couple of pounds (1 kg) lighter than a steel frame. A carbon fibre hardtail frame is probably only about 1kg in weight. The geometry is usually similar from one hardtail to another.

Beyond the frame material, the difference between hardtails is dependent on the fork, the wheels, and the drivetrain ...

The particular bike has "okay"-to-good parts, and the price is probably "good" if it looks as though it hasn't been abused AND you are looking for a hardtail AND your only other option is paying 2X as much at a bike shop.

FYI. The difference between the parts on the particular Specialized and more expensive parts is mostly a matter of weight. Sometimes, the cost compromises yield a beneficial component choice like the steel middle chainring which will outlast an alloy chainring by many times over.

As far as the fork goes, I don't know anything about that particular RockShox fork, but it will probably do-the-job if you remember to minimize the stiction on the sliders by using some SLICK HONEY (or, equivalent == a dab of Vaseline-or-generic-petroleum-jelly cut with a few drops of 30W motor oil until the viscosity is about that of bee's honey).

BTW. The tyres & PSI you run them at can make a significant difference in some trail situations ... sometimes, not so much so.