just started my fixie project. couple Q's.

[Jdub410]

after searching the web for months for a good/cheap vintage bike to turn into my first fixed gear, i found two in my grandpas shed. an old raliegh and an old sears. i decided on the sears, because it was a better fit for me.
i will eventually replace everything with new parts; but right now my main goal is to get on the road asap. which means saving as much money as possible. ive read all 8 pages of the single speed subforum, all of sheldons site, and the wiki site as well, but i am still confused on a couple things (im a complete noob).

-the bike has a single chain ring. is it possible for me to clean it up and reuse it?
-most of the saddles i look at on ebay do not include the seat post. my bike has an old san marco, will it just pop off, and a new seat will go on? or do i have to buy a new post too?
-can i take the old gears off and just reuse just one of them?
-off topic, but does anyone have experience pulling a kid trailer on a fixed gear?

id appreciate any help i can get! TIA

i was going to attach a picture of what im starting with, but i cant find the attachment button.. ?? am i blind, or does it not exist?

 

[garage sale GT]

A new seat often does not come with the clamp. New seatposts have an integral clamp. However, if the frame of the seat is made of two 5/16" wires the new seat may clamp right in to the existing clamp.

What kind of rear hub is it? How does it shift?

 

[alfeng]

after searching the web for months for a good/cheap vintage bike to turn into my first fixed gear, i found two in my grandpas shed. an old raliegh and an old sears. i decided on the sears, because it was a better fit for me.
i will eventually replace everything with new parts; but right now my main goal is to get on the road asap. which means saving as much money as possible. ive read all 8 pages of the single speed subforum, all of sheldons site, and the wiki site as well, but i am still confused on a couple things (im a complete noob).

-the bike has a single chain ring. is it possible for me to clean it up and reuse it?
-most of the saddles i look at on ebay do not include the seat post. my bike has an old san marco, will it just pop off, and a new seat will go on? or do i have to buy a new post too?
-can i take the old gears off and just reuse just one of them?
-off topic, but does anyone have experience pulling a kid trailer on a fixed gear?

id appreciate any help i can get! TIA

i was going to attach a picture of what im starting with, but i cant find the attachment button.. ?? am i blind, or does it not exist?

1) yes, you can re-use the single chainring that is on the SEARS bike ... it may NOT have the best tooth count, however.

2) your "old san marco" saddle is probably as good-or-better than any contemporary saddle EXCEPT it probably weighs more.

3) you will probably want to replace the multi-cog freewheel with a single cog, BMX freewheel -- I recommend ACS (you can spend MUCH MORE) because that is what the BMXers seem to prefer ... BMXers don't like Shimano, but I'm not sure why.

4) pulling a trailer with a single speed will be GREAT EXERCISE! Maybe, more than you can deal with ... you'll find out soon enough.

5) attachments are added by using the NEXT WINDOW below the window you write your message in (i.e., "ADDITIONAL OPTIONS")

 

[Jdub410]

1) yes, you can re-use the single chainring that is on the SEARS bike ... it may NOT have the best tooth count, however.

2) your "old san marco" saddle is probably as good-or-better than any contemporary saddle EXCEPT it probably weighs more.

3) you will probably want to replace the multi-cog freewheel with a single cog, BMX freewheel -- I recommend ACS (you can spend MUCH MORE) because that is what the BMXers seem to prefer ... BMXers don't like Shimano, but I'm not sure why.

4) pulling a trailer with a single speed will be GREAT EXERCISE! Maybe, more than you can deal with ... you'll find out soon enough.

5) attachments are added by using the NEXT WINDOW below the window you write your message in (i.e., "ADDITIONAL OPTIONS")

thanks for the reply!

so what would be a good tooth count on my chainring? i just went and checked, and its 44. and the freewheel cog i picked up yesterday is 16. will that combo be okay?
yeah, the san marco seat is very heavy. 3 pounds, not including seat post. so i decided to replace it yesterday when i made my run to the LBS. the san marco does look pretty cool tho.
i figured the trailer really would give me a workout. but thats why im really wanting to get into riding anyways, so i dont mind it being tough.
now that i can upload pics, ill post one of what im working with.

thanks again

 

[alfeng]

so what would be a good tooth count on my chainring? i just went and checked, and its 44. and the freewheel cog i picked up yesterday is 16. will that combo be okay?
yeah, the san marco seat is very heavy. 3 pounds, not including seat post. so i decided to replace it yesterday when i made my run to the LBS. the san marco does look pretty cool tho.
i figured the trailer really would give me a workout. but thats why im really wanting to get into riding anyways, so i dont mind it being tough.

The 44t chainring is probably "okay" for the time being ... particularly, since the SEARS has 26" wheels ...

You'll know if the 16t cog is too small soon-enough ... it must have been about a couple of dozen years ago when someone remarked that he thought the 16t cog (in a multi-cog cluster) was the most important because it allowed him the best cadence ... I'm not sure how he could make THAT universal statement at the time, but it's out there.

At some point in time, it MIGHT be worth the effort to lace some alloy rims onto the hubs (I'm presuming the bike's wheels have steel rims) ... this is a safety issue more than anything else ... the rubber brake pads will tend to skid on steel rims without using excessive braking force ... and, when wet/damp you are at-the-mercy-of-the-gods.

If you ever decide to change the chainwheel OR crankset, go to DANSCOMP.COM or your LBS to get a BMX chainring which has a different tooth count (or, at least to price stuff) -- many BMX chainrings will fit an ASHTABULA (aka "American" crank).

If you ever want to use a different (i.e., modern) crankset, there are adapters which fit into the Bottom Bracket shell which will then allow you to use an "English" bottom bracket ...

If you change the saddle, you'll probably want one that is EQUALLY wide, so it will probably be close to equally heavy (e.g., BROOKS 67) IF you continue to use the same upright riding position/handlebars ... maybe, not.

 

[gclark8]

On the single speeds I build,
the gearing for 27x11/4 wheels:

52=20
48=18

for SS 27" Ladies and SS 700c MTBs

48=22

Therefore, for 44 a 16 t would be good.

All my 27" wheels are steel, you may find 700c Alloy rims with road tyres will fit the frame/fork ok with road brake callipers. However if you prefer alloy 26x1 3/8 rims try Velocity in Qld. I recnetly got some 24x1 3/8 from them for a restoration job.

 

[garage sale GT]

I have had a few of those old utilities. The spokes are typically loose even on a bike that's been mostly stored and the wheel will quickly bend if it isn't already so. Also, the grease will be dry in there so I hope you try to drip some oil inside the hubs at a minimum, though ideally they should be repacked.

Bear in mind there are several different wheel sizes called "26". Sheldon Brown's shop had some alloy rims for a 26X1-3/8 which I assume is your size but I don't think they still do.

Then there is MTB 26 which would put you 15mm closer to the pavement, which can be a bad thing on a bike you can't stop pedaling in a corner. You can't just run fatter tires to make up the diameter because they won't fit in the frame.

I think it's mostly an issue in the rain. Chrome rims work well enough for me in the dry.

If you want to go fixed, you have to get a track cog and a lockring for an english bb.