Koxx-One Crank/Washer/Pedal Problem.



E

Evan Byrne

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This is really starting to bug me, I have no clue what is wrong with
these....I tightened the pedals down SO tight, then hoped on and with in
30 seconds they are lose enough that you can unscrew them with your
fingers. I have several ideas on why its not working

1: The steel sleeve that is crimped into the aluminum crank is not
pushed thru enough so that when the pedal is tightened the pedal does
not have much surface area to bind onto.

2: the pedal threads are just lose enough that the vibration and torque
of the pedal unscrews itself

3: the fact that my washers totally indented, give a concave surface
area to bind onto



I am still clueless as to why this is happening, I don't know if this is
anything but like I said above, the washers I got bent inward and are
more like cones than flat washers. The threads seem tight enough that it
is not the threads causing the problem.




any ideas?


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Riding forwards on pedals that aren't all the way in (assuming your
cranks are on the correct sides), besides being stupid, will -tighten-
your pedals, if anything - that's why one crank is right-hand threaded
and the other left-handed. If you jump around with loose pedals, don't
be surprised if you strip them out.

Dave


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fcwegnm0b wrote:
> *will -tighten- your pedals, if anything
>
> Dave *

Agreed, what you need is nutlock solution, sold usually under the names
of locktite, threadlock, nutlock etc. Clean both the pedal thread and
crank with white spirirt, allow to dry, apply solution to pedal thread,
tighten, pedal will never vibrate loose again, but can stil easily be
removed with a spanner. My friend's Koxx also has washers that have been
dished heavily by tightening the pedals, but he's not having any
problems with them. It might sound stupid but do just check that you
have the cranks on the right way round, else the pedlas will
automatically unwind every time.


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Dave

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Do you really think every pedal and crank manafacturer in the world
would make the crank threads opposite especially so that they both undid
when you rode forward? If that's what's happening then your cranks are
on the wrong side or your frame/seat is facing the wrong way depending
on how you want to think about it.


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Dave

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Take it to a local bike shop and see if they can see anything odd or
wrong about the cranks or pedals or threads.

There are not very many of the Koxx splined hubs and cranks over here in
the US so there is not much experience amongst us here in the newsgroup
to know what's up with that setup.


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Evan Byrne wrote:
> *il just turn the seat around, see if that works. *

Even if the seat was backwards the cranks should not unscrew so quickly.
People manage to ride backwards for long distances without the pedals
unscrewing due to the backwards pedaling. Something is not right with
your cranks. You need a bike mechanic to look at the cranks and see if
he/she can spot anything wrong with the crank threads.


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whats the deal with a washer? i need a pic of this...i sounds like a
quick fix to a problem that sould'nt be there in the 1st place.


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jagur wrote:
> *whats the deal with a washer? i need a pic of this...i sounds like a
> quick fix to a problem that sould'nt be there in the 1st place. *
those cranks/pedals need washers because the pedals are not directly
screwed in the cranks:
there is a steel part with the thread wich is situated at the inner side
of the crank so that when you screw the pedals on them the crank gets
"locked" between the steel part and the pedal. actually you absolutely
have to put the washers between the pedal and the crank or you will
grind the hole in the crank so badly that you will never be able to
tighten the pedal enough. those washers are not a quick fix, they are
meant to be there.


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ok Zzagg.

a picture still would be good here. what is the benefit of this style of
pedal mounting? i mean, once its set up right is it stronger or
somthing? why the extra steel inserts and washers instead of just
threads like most all cranx?


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Sorry for the pics... gonna try and find some.
I don't really know why they made this way but I think thread in the
steel inserts is more resistant than the thread of the classic alloy
cranks. this is supposed to bare more pedal changes (IMO)...
But the problem remains the same: if you ride with loose pedals the
crank threading will be destroyed, with the Koxx One system the hole in
the crank will be completely grinded, and maybe ovalized. I think that
it's cool to try new concepts but in that case I'm quite sceptic.
I have that problem with my Devil wich was a pre-sale version for
testing purpose. Yoggi told me that the crank/pedal problem would be
solved, but with this way of screwing pedals, cranks have to be PERFECT
when leaving the factory (it should always be the case indeed).
On the french forum I've heard of someone finding an issue to the
problem...
I switch my language and try to find more;)


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Zzagg

is this with the square tapered version or the splined version or both?


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jagur wrote:
> *Zzagg
>
> is this with the square tapered version or the splined version or
> both? *
Only with the ISIS splined version. square tapered ones have standard
cranks.


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Hey, these cranks are made of aluminum! If u screw a pedal in a tread of
an aluminum crank, the aluminum thread will damage very soon, because
steel is harder than aluminum. So they put Have this steel thing to
screw the pedal in.

I do not have a pic


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Moritz Hahn wrote:
> *Hey, these cranks are made of aluminum!*
Sorry, that' what I wanted to say.:eek:


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