Kurt Kinetic users question



Quadsweep

New Member
Aug 6, 2005
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For Kurt Kinetic users only:)

Seems that the Kurt Kinetic has the most real road feel of all trainers, under $1500, because of it's large heavy flywheel and stable fluid. This would probably reduce the gap between the wattage you can hold for long intervals indoors as compared to outside on the road, when compared to other trainers(re: inertial loading and stable fluid).

So for you KK users what is the difference in your FTP wattage, indoors vs on the road?:)
 
0w, in my case, although for full disclosure I never really try to do steady power testing of that duration outside since the terrain is really rolly. Outdoor FTP is estimated from races and hard group rides of 1hr and longer, and matches up pretty well with what I can do indoors on the trainer.
 
frenchyge said:
0w, in my case, although for full disclosure I never really try to do steady power testing of that duration outside since the terrain is really rolly. Outdoor FTP is estimated from races and hard group rides of 1hr and longer, and matches up pretty well with what I can do indoors on the trainer.
That's great! :eek: Good mind power you have. One in 100 perhaps. But then there's that freak :D Dr. Coggan ;)who can actually do better indoors than on the road.:eek:
 
Actually, several posters here have said that they can sustain as much or more power on the trainer as on the road. Many others seem to feel that they are within the accuracy of the powermeter or the normalized power algorithm. Hopefully, you will get some meaningful responses here, although insulting or writing the respondants off as freakish probably won't help that.
 
Quadsweep said:
Seems that the Kurt Kinetic has the most real road feel of all trainers, under $1500, because of it's large heavy flywheel and stable fluid. This would probably reduce the gap between the wattage you can hold for long intervals indoors as compared to outside on the road, when compared to other trainers(re: inertial loading and stable fluid).

So for you KK users what is the difference in your FTP wattage, indoors vs on the road?:)
About 45 watts! :eek:

It seems to take me a long time to "adapt" to the trainer. I was probably around 0 watts difference when I was riding the thing a lot (pre-PM). I got frustrated this fall with the stupid thing and now never use it except for recovery spins.
 
frenchyge said:
Hopefully, you will get some meaningful responses here, although insulting or writing the respondants off as freakish probably won't help that.


For God's sake Frenchy...he was complementing Andy.

Regarding the question.....I can hold the same power on my Kurt but it does take a certain "focus". However, many of my clients cannot(on their Kurts), including three of my good Cat 1 guys.
 
TiMan said:
For God's sake Frenchy...he was complementing Andy.
That is correct timan. I think it takes a good and tough rider to match outdoor power indoors.:):)
 
Quadsweep said:
I think it takes a good and tough rider to match outdoor power indoors.:):)
I'm not disagreeing that Dr. Coggan is good and tough, but I'm neither yet can still manage to hold about the same power on my KK Road Machine as I do outside.

Last night I did a 60min SST on the KK, and the 60MMP was very close (about +/-1% of each other) to that of a similar workout I did a couple of days earlier outside.

Cheers,

Ken
 
My experience last year was about 15 to 20 watts higher outside on the road than inside on my KK, at similar PE, for 2x20's.
 
Quadsweep said:
For Kurt Kinetic users only:)

So for you KK users what is the difference in your FTP wattage, indoors vs on the road?:)
I typically had slightly better average wattage doing 2x20s on the KK than outside during the three years or so that I used the KK. We don't have any climbs 20 minutes long within the area where I usually train so I'm not sure whether I could have done better on a long climb than on the KK.

-Chris
 
Overhill said:
My experience last year was about 15 to 20 watts higher outside on the road than inside on my KK, at similar PE, for 2x20's.


That's almost exactly my experience as well.
 
not to steal you post but.. has anyone used the pro model with the additional 12lb flywheel attachment for a total of 18lbs and/or the rock and roll? that's one of the reasons i use rollers is that i think locking the rear wheel does not mimic real riding outside and destroys your spin.. have to learn how to ride again once spring time comes around.. probably wouldn't be so bad every once in a while but here in the great white north the time on a trainer in the winter is long...

new%20dual.jpg


kurtrockroll.jpg
 
doctorSpoc said:
not to steal you post but.. has anyone used the pro model with the additional 12lb flywheel attachment for a total of 18lbs and/or the rock and roll? that's one of the reasons i use rollers is that i think locking the rear wheel does not mimic real riding outside and destroys your spin.. have to learn how to ride again once spring time comes around.. probably wouldn't be so bad every once in a while but here in the great white north the time on a trainer in the winter is long...

new%20dual.jpg


kurtrockroll.jpg


Tried em both.

The pro is cool but not as cool as you would think.
The rock n' roll one is not the greatest really...you are much better off spending the money for these.....it's just like riding on the road and you can sprint like hell and not fall off. Check out the video clips.
You get the mag trainer attachment and you're in business. Tried one of my clients and I am sold for sure.....it's on order!
http://www.insideride.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=15&Itemid=36
 
DrSpoc,
I bought a KK Pro trainer a few months ago and have been very happy with it. I had a Minoura Rim drive trainer before that and not only did it always feel like I was riding in sand, I couldn't get enough resistance with in on my MTB to get much past 300W. Now that I have the KK Pro, I am still 20 - 30 Watts lower on the trainer than I am outside, but it is MUCH MUCH better than the rim trainer. I tend to have a slower cadence and a stronger force, so really like to mash and feel the pedal resisting.

When riding on the trainer without the 12 lb flywheel I do see a small drop in Wattage and a huge drop in spindown time. With the weight on that thing will spin for well over a minute.

I bought it thinking I would probably return it, but that's not going to happen.
Hope that helps.

Tony
 
Semi-related question - Is it normal to experience slippage when pushing higher watts on the Road Machine? Whenever I push more than maybe 250w I get a chirp with every downstroke, and when I try even moderate sprints I get major slippage. Big sprints are out of the question. I run around 100psi and crank the tensioning knob three full turns after tire contact. Am I missing something or does it do this for everyone? :confused:
 
blaronn said:
Semi-related question - Is it normal to experience slippage when pushing higher watts on the Road Machine? Whenever I push more than maybe 250w I get a chirp with every downstroke, and when I try even moderate sprints I get major slippage. Big sprints are out of the question. I run around 100psi and crank the tensioning knob three full turns after tire contact. Am I missing something or does it do this for everyone? :confused:
As a new KK user I'm struggling with this as well.
I was wondering if a different training tire would be the solution?
 
Cleaning the tire with degreaser and then letting it dry completely will help a lot. Besides that, increasing the tire pressure (I run 110-120#) and/or knob tension even further will reduce the slipping.

They do make special trainer tires, but I run an old, worn out road tire myself.
 
I tighten the knob at 115psi and then pump it up to 130psi did 1074 watts at 35.6mph no slip but a little chirpping.

blaronn said:
Semi-related question - Is it normal to experience slippage when pushing higher watts on the Road Machine? Whenever I push more than maybe 250w I get a chirp with every downstroke, and when I try even moderate sprints I get major slippage. Big sprints are out of the question. I run around 100psi and crank the tensioning knob three full turns after tire contact. Am I missing something or does it do this for everyone? :confused: