Length of Head Tube vs Strength

[Magnusfarce]

I will need to start riding with a higher handlebar position to accomodate a
neck injury that requires a more upright position. If I were to use any
method to extend the stem to achieve this, will I be placing too much stress
on the head tube?

I've experimented with a cheap adjustable stem on my old road bike and
notice that everything seems pretty unwieldy up at the front end. I guess I
will need to get a bike with a frame geometry that can handle this. Does
the length of the head tube make a large difference in its strength, i.e.,
its ability to handle the added stress? What other factors should I look
for in a frame (hybrid, mountain, etc.)? Right now I'm staring pretty hard
at the Trek 7700fx.

- Magnusfarce

 

[Chalo]

Magnusfarce wrote:
>
> I will need to start riding with a higher handlebar position to
accomodate a
> neck injury that requires a more upright position. If I were to use
any
> method to extend the stem to achieve this, will I be placing too much
stress
> on the head tube?

If you like your bike in other respects, I recommend fitting it with
BMX bars of appropriate height for your desired riding position.
You'll need to use a BMX-type stem because BMX bars have a different
diameter at the clamped portion than MTB or drop bars.

I wouldn't worry about the head tube. If you use a quill stem, make
sure the quill is inserted well past the end of the steerer threads.

Remember, even if taller bars have more leverage, you won't be putting
nearly as much weight on them as you would on low bars.

Chalo Colina

 

[Mike Jacoubowsky]

>I will need to start riding with a higher handlebar position to accomodate
>a
> neck injury that requires a more upright position. If I were to use any
> method to extend the stem to achieve this, will I be placing too much
> stress
> on the head tube?

The issue isn't with the head tube, but rather the fork's steer tube. As you
go to a taller stem (or bar), you increase the leverage on the fork column.
Standard threaded fork columns are already a bit weak in their threaded
portion, so make sure you have the stem inserted quite a ways into the tube,
a bit further down than the indicated min height mark if possible.

You'll notice that it's quite a bit flexier as you go higher, but that's
usually not a major issue, since you're not putting as much weight on the
bar as you sit more upright.

Also, make certain that your saddle is level. Any downward tilt at the front
end will greatly aggravate neck & shoulder pain, since you're essentially
pushing back (with your arms) the entire time you're riding, in order to
maintain position on the saddle.

--Mike Jacoubowsky
Chain Reaction Bicycles
www.ChainReaction.com
Redwood City & Los Altos, CA USA


"Magnusfarce" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I will need to start riding with a higher handlebar position to accomodate
>a
> neck injury that requires a more upright position. If I were to use any
> method to extend the stem to achieve this, will I be placing too much
> stress
> on the head tube?
>
> I've experimented with a cheap adjustable stem on my old road bike and
> notice that everything seems pretty unwieldy up at the front end. I guess
> I
> will need to get a bike with a frame geometry that can handle this. Does
> the length of the head tube make a large difference in its strength, i.e.,
> its ability to handle the added stress? What other factors should I look
> for in a frame (hybrid, mountain, etc.)? Right now I'm staring pretty
> hard
> at the Trek 7700fx.
>
> - Magnusfarce
>
>