Lets see your Fixedgear and SS bikes!

Discussion in 'Singlespeed' started by i_luv_hooters, Mar 12, 2008.

  1. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    Quote: Originally Posted by joejeweler .


    You must be from Missouri originally,....you know,...."The Show Me State" [​IMG]

    OK,...using pictures always makes it easier to picture something. It wasn't just the knob and bolt that were interfering. The upper part of the mount was also,....maybe i wasn't clear on that previously and you were just looking at the bolt.

    Here is the light mounted as you seem to think would work. As you can see the top of the mounting bracket itself hits the cross brace, and the angle of the light is positioned in a VERY downward position: (note: I removed the threaded bolt with knob to allow me to place the mount through the opening )


    [​IMG]

    And as you can see, in that position the light field barely covers 5 feet in front of the front tire. This light can usually light up maybe 35 to 45 feet, and allow some speedy night travel. But in the most upright position possible on the handlbar when under the brace,.....this is the light coverage offered:

    [​IMG]

    And if the light mounting bracket is positioned the other way, (with the mount top surface positioned behind the upper brace), this is the furthest forward the light will go. Basically the light is looking almost straight ahead, sending the light into a useless beam directed a block or so away. I didn'd take a picture of any light beam here, because nothing would show up. You can see how straight ahead the light is positioned in this pic:

    [​IMG]


    Anyway,...i hope you can see that using the bottom part of the Moots braced riser ti handlebar to mount this particular light directly just won't work.


    Thanks ...
    Yes ...

    As Fate would have it, I was born in Missouri!

    I do finally see the problem which you encountered ...
    FWIW. Being a lot more frugal than you, I would have probably used a Rat Tail file to "notch" a groove in the tongue in which the handlebar could nest until I found the "right angle" so that the beam could be aimed where I wanted ... which might have possibly resulted in finally chamfering the end quite a bit ...
    • then, I would then have needed to extend the notch as necessary
    • followed by counter-sinking the hole slightly at the appropriate angle so that a washer would sit squarely ​if the hasp is hollow, then I would either "fill" the lattice (?) with some JB WELD and/or add a small 'wedge' on which the washer would sit
    • OR, I might end up fabricating a new hasp to replace the current one
    [*]and then, eschewed the "stock" adjusting knob & bolt & replaced them with the fore mentioned alternative
    [*]depending on the protrusion of the bolt beyond the gimbaled nut, some-or-most of the excess would probably be removed ...
    • certainly, I would probably "dome" the end of the bolt if it seemed like a potential hazard to life-or-limb.
    OR, I might have simply tried lowering & slightly canting the handlebar to see if it could aim the beam where I wanted while using the particular length stem!?!
     


  2. joejeweler

    joejeweler New Member

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    Born in Missouri,.....really,....well THAT certainly explains it! :cool: Oh,....you left out one option,.....taking a crowbar and spreading the distance between the cross brace and the lower bar material on the (once) wonderfully symetrical Ti Moots braced riser mtb handlebars! :confused: JB Weld,....huh? ,.....remind me never to have you work on MY bike! :crying: ............ :big-smile: Nope,....for me too many years working 35 years as a bench jewelry repairman and diamond setter doing quality work to allow me to do a cobb job. Sometimes solving a problem costs you money. I certainly didn't need this headset spaceer/light mount to be made in titanium. Im sure one made in aluminum would have worked as well, and been much more frugal. (maybe $35-$45?). But in my mind it wouldn't have fit in as well, and i would have always been thinking about WHEN i would eventually bite the bullet and get what i had made up originally. I just wouldn't, COULDN'T do what you describe. If I wouldn't have been happy with whatever I did if the item had been my own,....the customer never got the job back until it was! Ten years after i stopped doing that work i STILL see some of my old customers complaining about recent crappy work done by jewelers, and wished i was still doing it. Sometimes being frugal means getting what you want up front, ..........and not getting a custom part made twice. :wink: BTW,....i know you are just having a bit of fun with all this talk about less than "optimum" fitting stratagies,.....at least i hope that's the case. :cool:
     
  3. alfeng

    alfeng Well-Known Member

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    Quote: Originally Posted by joejeweler .


    Born in Missouri,.....really,....well THAT certainly explains it! [​IMG]

    Oh,....you left out one option,.....taking a crowbar and spreading the distance between the cross brace and the lower bar material on the (once) wonderfully symetrical Ti Moots braced riser mtb handlebars! [​IMG]

    JB Weld,....huh? ,.....remind me never to have you work on MY bike! [​IMG] ............ [​IMG]

    Nope,....for me too many years working 35 years as a bench jewelry repairman and diamond setter doing quality work to allow me to do a cobb job. Sometimes solving a problem costs you money. I certainly didn't need this headset spaceer/light mount to be made in titanium. Im sure one made in aluminum would have worked as well, and been much more frugal. (maybe $35-$45?). But in my mind it wouldn't have fit in as well, and i would have always been thinking about WHEN i would eventually bite the bullet and get what i had made up originally.


    I just wouldn't, COULDN'T do what you describe. If I wouldn't have been happy with whatever I did if the item had been my own,....the customer never got the job back until it was! Ten years after i stopped doing that work i STILL see some of my old customers complaining about recent crappy work done by jewelers, and wished i was still doing it.

    Sometimes being frugal means getting what you want up front, ..........and not getting a custom part made twice. [​IMG]

    BTW,....i know you are just having a bit of fun with all this talk about less than "optimum" fitting stratagies,.....at least i hope that's the case. [​IMG]

    [​IMG]


    BTW. Actually, no ...

    With the understanding that you have a preferred bicycle setup which gives you a decidedly upright riding position + you had a special, auxiliary mounting 'arm' created to mount your headlamp on, it would seem to ME that the cant on your handlebar is not necessarily the most comfortable option AND it is possible that adjusting the cant may (should!!!) provide a two-fold benefit ...

    1. a slightly more comfortable hand-wrist position
    2. a headlamp aimed where you indicated that you want it -- 35-to-40 feet in front of the bike

    Maybe yes!?!

    Maybe no?!?

    That is, 'I' would probably try having the trailing tips of the grips/bars a few degrees lower than the leading (inward) edge of the grips which would mean that the lamp's beam which is was pointed only 5' in front of the bike when you tested it could be pointed much further forward.

    Really, nothing to lose but a few more minutes of your time.

    SOME tweaking may be required so that your upright riding position is satisfactorily replicated ...

    Whether or not you would have to move you saddle back AFTER canting the handlebar, slightly, is subjective because slightly lowering the handlebar (perhaps, removing ~1cm of the spacers) might present you with same relative reach as you have with the current position (height & cant).

    Something to think possibly about if you want the cleanest look possible (which is what you inferred) & (regardless of how nice the craftsmanship was on the "arm") to avoid having your bike's assembly look as though it wasn't necessarily well thought out (THAT's part of doing a "good job").

    You can always use the auxiliary arm for other, future accessories which might otherwise be mounted directly on a handlebar.
     
  4. view837

    view837 New Member

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    Oh what the heck, it's snowing out and I'm procrastinating about hopping on the computrainer, might as well post some pics of my Fuji. Yes, I know, it has brakes. I like having brakes and its a legal requirement where I live. Deal with it. The top picture is just after a 90km 'dirty' sportive (lots off off pavement). Everyone else was on a cross bike.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  5. bikelucy

    bikelucy New Member

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    some beautiful examples here. WIll get a few of mine up shortly.
     
  6. swilsmore

    swilsmore New Member

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    Hey guys...here is my Columbus Steel frame track bike. I originally built it up for racing on... But have ridden once and left it sitting around in my home.

    It's up for sale if anyone is interested - PM me!


    She flies.
     
  7. Bigbananabike

    Bigbananabike Member

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  8. welshdude3

    welshdude3 Member

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  9. welshdude3

    welshdude3 Member

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    The above is my fixed gear. It's a conversion. Fuji Del Rey 2x6. The wheelset is a 100.00 set of Aeromax flip-flop purchased onlline. They've got well over 5,000 miles on them. Changed bearings twice. I mounted spoke reflectors as a concession to the realities of riding at night. The frameset/stem/headset/seatpost are stock, but sandblasted /powder coated sparkle black. The painter saved the chrome tips.

    The drivetrain is comprised of a Sugino 103mm bb, Messenger 175mm crankset w/a 48t chainnring. Vuelta 15t cog and a 1/8" KMC chain.

    Old Tektro brakeset from Bikeisland.com. including calipers, levers, cables and covers. Shimano PD-520 dual-sided clipless. Saddle is a Specialized split seat mtb. Fenders are SKS Raceblades. Delta seat post rack and a generic trunkbag.

    Tubes and tires are Forte puncture resistant and 28mm Schwalbe Marathon Plus. Used a tap set to mount a bottle rack and Topeak mini-morph frame pump.

    It's by far my favorite bike in my stable. The comps have lasted a surprisingly long time with very little maintenance. Just keep it clean, lubed and runs smooth and quiet.

    Now if I could just figure out how to post my pictures upright I'd be good to go.
     
    #89 welshdude3, Feb 28, 2016
    Last edited: Feb 28, 2016
  10. zipp2001

    zipp2001 Well-Known Member

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    My Zipp2001 52/15
    upload_2016-3-22_20-19-45.png
     
  11. bikestudio

    bikestudio New Member

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  12. FetishRider

    FetishRider New Member

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    One gear to rule them all... green fetish new.jpg langster new.jpg
     

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  13. steviesmallfry

    steviesmallfry New Member

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    Here's 2 pics of the Falcon Black Diamond custom Fixed Gear bike I picked up on CL 2 years ago. It started it's life as a road bike, but a bike guru who works in a custom bike shop converted it into a fixie, geared for urban and flatland riding. It does have a front brake on it. I am considering adding "mustache" handlebars and some minor upgrades, maybe a new seat as the one that is on it is kinda small and pointy. Since purchasing it, I have added some nice metal toe clips, some decals, a digital speedometer, and a U-Lock and holder. I mainly have ridden it during trips to Chincoteague, VA but am hoping to ride it around Bel Air, Havre de Grace, and maybe even Baltimore, if I can find other fixie riders. 20150701_104004.jpg 20150701_123548.jpg
     
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