Quote: Originally Posted by joejeweler .
You must be from Missouri originally,....you know,...."The Show Me State"
OK,...using pictures always makes it easier to picture something. It wasn't just the knob and bolt that were interfering. The upper part of the mount was also,....maybe i wasn't clear on that previously and you were just looking at the bolt.
Here is the light mounted as you seem to think would work. As you can see the top of the mounting bracket itself hits the cross brace, and the angle of the light is positioned in a VERY downward position: (note: I removed the threaded bolt with knob to allow me to place the mount through the opening )
And as you can see, in that position the light field barely covers 5 feet in front of the front tire. This light can usually light up maybe 35 to 45 feet, and allow some speedy night travel. But in the most upright position possible on the handlbar when under the brace,.....this is the light coverage offered:
And if the light mounting bracket is positioned the other way, (with the mount top surface positioned behind the upper brace), this is the furthest forward the light will go. Basically the light is looking almost straight ahead, sending the light into a useless beam directed a block or so away. I didn'd take a picture of any light beam here, because nothing would show up. You can see how straight ahead the light is positioned in this pic:
Anyway,...i hope you can see that using the bottom part of the Moots braced riser ti handlebar to mount this particular light directly just won't work.
Thanks ...
Yes ...
As Fate would have it, I was born in Missouri!
I do finally see the problem which you encountered ...
FWIW. Being a lot more frugal than you, I would have probably used a Rat Tail file to "notch" a groove in the tongue in which the handlebar could nest until I found the "right angle" so that the beam could be aimed where I wanted ... which might have possibly resulted in finally chamfering the end quite a bit ...
[*]depending on the protrusion of the bolt beyond the gimbaled nut, some-or-most of the excess would probably be removed ...
You must be from Missouri originally,....you know,...."The Show Me State"
OK,...using pictures always makes it easier to picture something. It wasn't just the knob and bolt that were interfering. The upper part of the mount was also,....maybe i wasn't clear on that previously and you were just looking at the bolt.
Here is the light mounted as you seem to think would work. As you can see the top of the mounting bracket itself hits the cross brace, and the angle of the light is positioned in a VERY downward position: (note: I removed the threaded bolt with knob to allow me to place the mount through the opening )
And as you can see, in that position the light field barely covers 5 feet in front of the front tire. This light can usually light up maybe 35 to 45 feet, and allow some speedy night travel. But in the most upright position possible on the handlbar when under the brace,.....this is the light coverage offered:
And if the light mounting bracket is positioned the other way, (with the mount top surface positioned behind the upper brace), this is the furthest forward the light will go. Basically the light is looking almost straight ahead, sending the light into a useless beam directed a block or so away. I didn'd take a picture of any light beam here, because nothing would show up. You can see how straight ahead the light is positioned in this pic:
Anyway,...i hope you can see that using the bottom part of the Moots braced riser ti handlebar to mount this particular light directly just won't work.
Thanks ...
Yes ...
As Fate would have it, I was born in Missouri!
I do finally see the problem which you encountered ...
FWIW. Being a lot more frugal than you, I would have probably used a Rat Tail file to "notch" a groove in the tongue in which the handlebar could nest until I found the "right angle" so that the beam could be aimed where I wanted ... which might have possibly resulted in finally chamfering the end quite a bit ...
- then, I would then have needed to extend the notch as necessary
- followed by counter-sinking the hole slightly at the appropriate angle so that a washer would sit squarely ​if the hasp is hollow, then I would either "fill" the lattice (?) with some JB WELD and/or add a small 'wedge' on which the washer would sit
- OR, I might end up fabricating a new hasp to replace the current one
[*]depending on the protrusion of the bolt beyond the gimbaled nut, some-or-most of the excess would probably be removed ...
- certainly, I would probably "dome" the end of the bolt if it seemed like a potential hazard to life-or-limb.