Light ticking noise whilst pedalling

[John Picton]

It seems to occur when the left pedal is on the downstroke (or right one up). There is a very light "tick-tick". The bike feels fine, the noise isn't there when freewheeling and always occurs in the same place on the pedal stroke. Tried removing pedals, greasing the pedal axle and replacing and it seemed to help for a bit (couple of days) but it's back now, so don;t know if I solved the problem temporarily or if it is just intermitent.

I can't reproduce the sound when off the bike, turning the pedals backwards doesn't make the noise and neither does turning the pedals forward with the rear wheel off the ground. The cranks seem to be on firmly and the bottom bracket seems smooth. It's just there when I'm on it cycling!

Any ideas where I should look. I still kind of suspect the pedals as they are bog standard resin ones, but wondered if any of you had any clue as to if I should be looking elsewhere.

Thanks.

 

[Cheesy]

I have had this sort of thing from:


1. Freewheel
2. front gears
3. pedals
4. bottom bracket



Checks:
1. Well, I guess this doesn't really fit in here, as it is at a regular point on the pedalstroke.
2. Does it happen in all gears? (yes rules this out)
3. Does it always happen at the left downstroke, even if you flip the pedal over to the other side? (Yes most likely rules this out)
4. This is where my money is on. Especially if it is a cheaper bike you've had for a year or 2, the bottom bracket will be wearing out. It won't kill the bike to do nothing. Bottom brackets are cheap, but you usually need a few special tools to change them. Talk to your LBS unless you have a friend with the tools, or want to buy the tools.

 

[gclark8]

Had this on two bikes, check "spare" piece of cable on the front derailleur, the free bit can hit the crank arm or the leg or boot. Cut it shorter or bend it down.

 

[John Picton]

I think it happens in all gears, I'll check when I bike home tonight. I'll also flip the pedals over and see what happens.

 

[cmoore992002]

That ticking will drive you nuts. I have found that a good cleaning with a good degreaser and a relube will get rid of my ticking problems. If you are a regular rider you should clean up the gears once a week. Lots of dust/dirt and dead grass and such. The bike always feels great after I clean it and relube.
Charlie M.
Dallas, Tx

 

[roadhog]

Of course all the previous replies are good. Ticking sounds like that travel through the frame sometimes and are usually tough to pinpoint.

I had a similar sound with similar symptoms once and finally cured it by tightening (with a larger hex wrench) where the crank arm attaches to the bottom bracket. That fixed my tick which happened at the same time you are mentioning.

 

[John Picton]

Of course all the previous replies are good. Ticking sounds like that travel through the frame sometimes and are usually tough to pinpoint.

I had a similar sound with similar symptoms once and finally cured it by tightening (with a larger hex wrench) where the crank arm attaches to the bottom bracket. That fixed my tick which happened at the same time you are mentioning.

Yes. I thought it may be that. I'll pick up a hex wrench tonight and give it a go.

Thanks.

 

[meehs]

Noises on a bike often aren't coming from where you think they are. Check everything mentioned above. Another area that can make noise while you pedal is your seat/seatpost/frame interface. Make sure that the seat clamp on the post is tight and that the seatpost binder on the frame is tight. Good luck!

Edit: Easy to check this by standing up while pedaling. If the clicking goes away, there's a good chance this is what you're hearing.

 

[artmichalek]

While you're at it, you should check for loose spokes.

 

[bikeguy2004]

While you're at it, you should check for loose spokes.

I had a ticking noise that took me a while to find. I had 2 or 3 spokes in the rear wheel on the non-drive side that were loose. But it always sounded like a pedal or a BB noise. I re-tensioned the non-drive side spokes and trued the wheel, no more noise.

 

[dhk]

Yes. I thought it may be that. I'll pick up a hex wrench tonight and give it a go.

Thanks.

The crankarm bolts need to be tightened to a fairly high torque, EG, 400 in-lbs, to ensure the arms are fully seated so they don't creak. A hex key won't allow you to apply this kind of torque. Suggest a hex-head socket and a 1/2 inch drive torque wrench. Look up the specs for your particular crankset to be safe.

If you find the bolts are fairly loose when you check the torque, I'd pull the arms off, check for damage, and reapply a thin coat of grease or anti-seize compound to all mating surfaces before reassembling.

 

[otherworld]

Your problem is most likely the seat post or bottom bracket. You need to lubricate your seatpost in the frame, not just tighten it as someone has suggested. You need to be careful not to over-tighten it and this goes for everything on the bike. If your seatpost and frame are metal ie. steel or aluminium use never-seaze of copper-cote or even just ordinary grease. (not oil) Pull the post right out and clean the post and inside the frame, grease, reinsert and try and work it so the lubricant gets between the surfaces. If either your post or frame are carbon, just remove and clean or use a pure dry graphite lubricant. NEVER put oil or grease on carbon composite.

If it's the bottom bracket it won't be the bearing cassette and it's unlikely to be the cranks either. It's almost always where the main housings screw into the frame itself ie. the contact between the threads. These need to be removed and lubricated with never-seaze or coppercoat as well. Even if your frame is carbon it will have a metal insert so these lubricants will be fine if you use care. You need special tools to do this and if your not sure get a mechanic to do it. Any decent bike mechanic will be well aware of this issue as it's very common. It's still a good idea to get a hex key and firmly and carefully nip up your cranks now and then, particularly if your bike is new as they can work loose and permanently damage themselves.

Good Luck Jay.

PS Use never-seaze or coppercoat were your pedals screw into the cranks as well. Again don't over-tighten your pedals.

 

[EagleVT94]

I bought a new rear wheel and installed an 11-23 cogset, instead of the same 12-23. I noticed a clicking at the same pedal turn, not when freewheeling and found it to be on my 11 & 12 cogs. Turn the pedals real slow I can see the chain brush against one of the teeth each rotation and click into the groove. Driving me nuts! Not sure how to fix it either. Chain length an issue??? All the other gears are fine...

 

[mitosis]

It seems to occur when the left pedal is on the downstroke (or right one up). There is a very light "tick-tick". The bike feels fine, the noise isn't there when freewheeling and always occurs in the same place on the pedal stroke. Tried removing pedals, greasing the pedal axle and replacing and it seemed to help for a bit (couple of days) but it's back now, so don;t know if I solved the problem temporarily or if it is just intermitent.

I can't reproduce the sound when off the bike, turning the pedals backwards doesn't make the noise and neither does turning the pedals forward with the rear wheel off the ground. The cranks seem to be on firmly and the bottom bracket seems smooth. It's just there when I'm on it cycling!

Any ideas where I should look. I still kind of suspect the pedals as they are bog standard resin ones, but wondered if any of you had any clue as to if I should be looking elsewhere.

Thanks.

Someone has planted a bomb on your bike. The timer only runs while you are pedalling. If you can't disarm it you'll have to disconnect your cadence magnet before it blows up. Good luck.

 

[John Picton]

Found the problem,

Yes indeed, it was a bomb.

Actually, may have been the left crank, I tightened it by an eighth of a turn and so far the noise has gone. Still, it's come back before so I'll keep an eye on it.

 

[dhk]

Found the problem,

Yes indeed, it was a bomb.

Actually, may have been the left crank, I tightened it by an eighth of a turn and so far the noise has gone. Still, it's come back before so I'll keep an eye on it.

If it does come back, don't forget about removing the arms, reapplying the anti-seize or grease to the splines, and retorquing as I mentioned. Sometimes just tightening doesn't get it. Once properly installed and torqued to spec, you should be fine.

If you don't have the tools to do this, any competent mechanic should be able to handle it for a small charge.

Proper torque is important to prevent the arm from wearing on the axle splines. If the alloy crankarm gets fretted or worn from working loose on the splines, you may need a replacement to fix the problem.

 

[Hypnospin]

hey, some o' my bikes do this too! i just use it as a rythmic cadence indicator.

It seems to occur when the left pedal is on the downstroke (or right one up). There is a very light "tick-tick".
Thanks.