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Lightweight wheel suggestions

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28 February 2007
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  1. SYJ said:

    This raises an interesting question. There have been plenty of folks
    referencing the TOUR magazine aero wheel comparison, but does anyone
    know of a comparison of un-aero (Open pro) to semi-aero (CXP33) to
    kinda-aero (IRD Cadence Deep/Velocity Deep-V) to pretty aero (fill-in-
    the-blank carbon 38mm) to really aero (fill-in-the-blank carbon 50mm)
    rims? I'd like to build up a new set of lightish, aeroish wheels
    before Lotoja this year (after 200 miles, every watt saved really adds
    up), but am curious where the point of diminishing returns lies.

    Interesting to me as well. The best single set of data was a test Tour
    did in 2002 where there were a lot of wheels represented in the
    20-30mm deep range. Most of them had CX-Ray type spokes also, so a
    comparison of just the rim could be made. There was a *bigger* aero
    difference between the 20mm compared to 30mm, than between 30mm and
    60mm. It's only ~2% difference in your top speed though, and if you
    are doing a 200+ mile ride the best way to save watts is to go a
    little slower...

    Joseph... if the guy is really a nut about light weight, the Tune hubs
    are the best regarded of the superlight ones. Pillar makes very light
    titanium bladed spokes that will fit through standard hub holes.
    They've been out about a year and I haven't heard any complaints yet.
    The AC350 rim is decent for a light clincher... can you get those
    seperately in Norway? You can't in the US, but I hear you can in
    Europe. Other clincher rim options are Alex Crostinis or the IRDs...
    or maybe even the Aeroheads. The last Aerohead I weighed was pretty
    close to spec at 411g.

  2. Quoted post said:

    On Feb 28, 6:22 pm, Dan Connelly <d_j_c_o_n_n_e_l@y_a_h_o_o_._c_o_m>

    Quoted message said:
    landotter said:

    Tubs are fun, but you can get some very light clinchers that are less
    of a PITA. If I lived in Madison WI and could purchase my tubs at
    Yellow Jersey, I'd think about running them. There's always Tufo
    tubular-clinchers--which don't really save a ton of weight, but
    they're idiosyncratic and might give a psychological edge--which is
    what your buddy ultimately needs.

    Do they have them in red? Red tires feel faster.

    Dan

    That explains it! I have a blue bike with blue seat, tape and tires!
    Redshift. It's all about the science, man.

    Joseph

    You're behind the times. FRom the New York times:

    <http://travel.nytimes.com/2004/10/29/automobiles/29YELL.html?ex=1172811600&en=2c461138db7424bf&ei=5070>

    -----excerpt, for those without access to old NYT articles:------

    DRIVING
    The Hot Color for Cool Cars? Yellow
    By LISA KALIS

    Published: October 29, 2004

    DALE EARNHARDT JR.'S Corvette. Nicolas Cage's Lamborghini. Liz
    Claiborne's Porsche. Eric Clapton's Ferrari. The Pagani Zonda S7.3 on
    the cover of this month's Robb Report (one of the magazine's "10 new
    luxuries" for 2005, it's priced at about $300,000). They're all
    quintessential trophy cars -- sporty, assertive and flamboyant.

    And they're all yellow.

    Forget about that little red sports car. Yellow shouts louder and,
    increasingly, it's the color of choice for the driver who wants to
    make an unmistakable statement on the road. Yellow is muscling in not
    only for high-performance cars, but on the shiny surfaces of compacts
    and sporty pickups -- the hot models that young car buyers like to deck
    out with cladding and chrome.

    ----end excerpt---

    Now when my red stuff wears out I replace it with yellow. Besides, I
    think it's safer, except for the tires, which are safer in carbon black.

    Bill Westphal

  3. email hidden said:

    Anyway, what do folks suggest for home-built light weight wheels?

    A wheelset that is truly 1400g will take boutique components.
    Components made expecially for a particular wheel and likely a carbon
    wheel.

  4. Mark Hickey said:
    A Muzi said:

    "off-brand tubular wheels on ebay for about $700"? You can build _new_
    ones with tires for less than that.

    I just ran the numbers on my wheel building tool, (well... wheel
    building PRICING tool, that is...) and for the following wheels:

    Campy Record hubs
    DT Swiss Revolution spokes (28F/32R)
    Sun 19A-11A tubular rims
    Alloy nipples

    I came up with a combined weight of 1371 grams (which would include
    skewers if the 117 / 231 gram weights are accurate) and a price of
    under $400.

    I'd say Andrew is VERY right on this one! Save $300 and get some
    REALLY nice wheels, new.

    I didn't mean used BTW.

    But we are talking about apples and oranges. The question is deep
    "real" aero rim wheels vs light standard type wheels. For the purposes
    of getting from A to B as fast as possible, I'll take cheap Joy-Tech
    hubs over Campy Record if they come with 50mm deep carbon rims vs a
    shallow (relative) rim like a Sun 19A.

    Joseph

  5. Ron Ruff said:
    SYJ said:

    This raises an interesting question. There have been plenty of folks
    referencing the TOUR magazine aero wheel comparison, but does anyone
    know of a comparison of un-aero (Open pro) to semi-aero (CXP33) to
    kinda-aero (IRD Cadence Deep/Velocity Deep-V) to pretty aero (fill-in-
    the-blank carbon 38mm) to really aero (fill-in-the-blank carbon 50mm)
    rims? I'd like to build up a new set of lightish, aeroish wheels
    before Lotoja this year (after 200 miles, every watt saved really adds
    up), but am curious where the point of diminishing returns lies.

    I have similar requirements for my own use as I like long races too. I
    ended up going with Velocity Deep-V 28/32 on my "race" wheels. If I
    had more cash available I'd get some 50mm deep carbons with metal rims
    like Zipp 404 clinchers, but it is just too much money. I'm not really
    in danger of winning any races so it doesn't really matter anyway.
    Last year I tested (5000km) some prototype 45mm full carbon clincher
    wheels from Control Tech. They were really nice and very strong, but
    the braking issues with carbon rims was too much of a hassle for me.
    My current Deep-V's are almost as fast, and switching off from my
    every-day 36/36 Aerohead/OC wheels doesn't require any monkeying with
    the pads.

    Quoted message said:

    Interesting to me as well. The best single set of data was a test Tour
    did in 2002 where there were a lot of wheels represented in the
    20-30mm deep range. Most of them had CX-Ray type spokes also, so a
    comparison of just the rim could be made. There was a *bigger* aero
    difference between the 20mm compared to 30mm, than between 30mm and
    60mm. It's only ~2% difference in your top speed though, and if you
    are doing a 200+ mile ride the best way to save watts is to go a
    little slower...

    Speeds that are maintainable by mortals over 200 miles are probably
    right in the sweet-spot of maximum time difference saved with aero
    gear. That is to say, fast enough for it to make a difference, not
    fast enough for the difference to be miniscule.

    Quoted message said:

    Joseph... if the guy is really a nut about light weight, the Tune hubs
    are the best regarded of the superlight ones. Pillar makes very light
    titanium bladed spokes that will fit through standard hub holes.
    They've been out about a year and I haven't heard any complaints yet.
    The AC350 rim is decent for a light clincher... can you get those
    seperately in Norway? You can't in the US, but I hear you can in
    Europe. Other clincher rim options are Alex Crostinis or the IRDs...
    or maybe even the Aeroheads. The last Aerohead I weighed was pretty
    close to spec at 411g.

    The Tune stuff is too steep for him. The local supply for rims is
    pretty limited, so we'll be ordering from abroad I suppose. He's not
    really a light-weight nut, but here is the progression of the story:

    He has Ultegra WH-600 wheels which are pretty nice (asymetric rear,
    semi-aero 24mm rim, aero spokes, 1710g) but he wants "better" wheels
    that are lighter. He suggested Campy Shamal Ultra which would save
    about 300g. Seemed like a lot of money for 300g. I figure if he is
    going to replace his pretty nice wheels, he should make a big leap
    either to super light-weight or aero. My preference would be aero, but
    he is leaning more towards light weight. The idea of spending lots of
    money (any?) on wheels that do not drastically improve either of these
    areas is a waste IMO. So I suggested the 50mm carbon tubulars since he
    was already in the area in terms of price with the Shamals. Tubulars
    are no-go and he is not buying my aero is better line, so light-weight
    it is. But it has to be light, so stuff like the Aeroheads is out. The
    CR350's look good, but I don't know where to get them.

    Joseph

  6. email hidden said:

    Hi All,

    A riding buddy wants to get some better wheels than he has. He wants
    light weight. Something under 1400g for the set. He was looking at
    boutique wheels as that is more or less the only thing available
    around here. My vote is for built-up wheels.

    I was thinking American Classic hubs (light and not too expensive),
    24/28 hole (he weighs only 160lbs) with Sapim CX-RAY spokes. Rims I'm
    not sure. I think he is bitten by the weight bug enough to try
    tubulars if that will get him light weight without extreme cost.

    Anyway, what do folks suggest for home-built light weight wheels?

    Joseph

    DT hubs, 28h, Velocity Aerohead rims(OC rear), Revs in the front(2
    cross), 1/2 Revs in the rear, 14/15 right side rear, laced 3 cross,
    brass nipps.

    STAY away from AC hubs, they are junque.

  7. Mark Hickey said:
    A Muzi said:

    "off-brand tubular wheels on ebay for about $700"? You can build _new_
    ones with tires for less than that.

    I just ran the numbers on my wheel building tool, (well... wheel
    building PRICING tool, that is...) and for the following wheels:

    Campy Record hubs
    DT Swiss Revolution spokes (28F/32R)
    Sun 19A-11A tubular rims
    Alloy nipples

    I came up with a combined weight of 1371 grams (which would include
    skewers if the 117 / 231 gram weights are accurate) and a price of
    under $400.

    I'd say Andrew is VERY right on this one! Save $300 and get some
    REALLY nice wheels, new.

    They just don't have the bling. Can't you get the rims silk-screened to
    say "Unobtanium XX-Lite" and anodize the hubs purple or gold?

    Pat

  8. Pat Lamb said:
    Mark Hickey said:

    A Muzi <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    "off-brand tubular wheels on ebay for about $700"? You can build _new_
    ones with tires for less than that.

    Quoted message said:

    I just ran the numbers on my wheel building tool, (well... wheel
    building PRICING tool, that is...) and for the following wheels:

    Quoted message said:

    Campy Record hubs
    DT Swiss Revolution spokes (28F/32R)
    Sun 19A-11A tubular rims
    Alloy nipples

    Quoted message said:

    I came up with a combined weight of 1371 grams (which would include
    skewers if the 117 / 231 gram weights are accurate) and a price of
    under $400.

    Quoted message said:

    I'd say Andrew is VERY right on this one! Save $300 and get some
    REALLY nice wheels, new.

    They just don't have the bling. Can't you get the rims silk-screened to
    say "Unobtanium XX-Lite" and anodize the hubs purple or gold?

    Nah, get them stenciled "Wheel" and watch the faces of the guys you
    pass on your generics.

  9. landotter said:
    Pat Lamb said:
    Mark Hickey said:

    A Muzi <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > "off-brand tubular wheels on ebay for about $700"? You can build _new_
    > ones with tires for less than that.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I just ran the numbers on my wheel building tool, (well... wheel
    building PRICING tool, that is...) and for the following wheels:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Campy Record hubs
    DT Swiss Revolution spokes (28F/32R)
    Sun 19A-11A tubular rims
    Alloy nipples

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I came up with a combined weight of 1371 grams (which would include
    skewers if the 117 / 231 gram weights are accurate) and a price of
    under $400.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I'd say Andrew is VERY right on this one! Save $300 and get some
    REALLY nice wheels, new.

    Quoted message said:

    They just don't have the bling. Can't you get the rims silk-screened to
    say "Unobtanium XX-Lite" and anodize the hubs purple or gold?

    Nah, get them stenciled "Wheel" and watch the faces of the guys you
    pass on your generics

    Or, just remove all the logos on the rims and let 'em wonder.

  10. Mark Hickey said:

    I came up with a combined weight of 1371 grams (which would include
    skewers if the 117 / 231 gram weights are accurate) and a price of
    under $400.

    2007 Campagnolo claimed hub weights do not include skewers. But I do
    agree that hand builts are still the way to go.

  11. Pat Lamb said:
    Mark Hickey said:

    A Muzi <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    "off-brand tubular wheels on ebay for about $700"? You can build _new_
    ones with tires for less than that.

    Quoted message said:

    I just ran the numbers on my wheel building tool, (well... wheel
    building PRICING tool, that is...) and for the following wheels:

    Quoted message said:

    Campy Record hubs
    DT Swiss Revolution spokes (28F/32R)
    Sun 19A-11A tubular rims
    Alloy nipples

    Quoted message said:

    I came up with a combined weight of 1371 grams (which would include
    skewers if the 117 / 231 gram weights are accurate) and a price of
    under $400.

    Quoted message said:

    I'd say Andrew is VERY right on this one! Save $300 and get some
    REALLY nice wheels, new.

    They just don't have the bling. Can't you get the rims silk-screened to
    say "Unobtanium XX-Lite" and anodize the hubs purple or gold?

    Pat

    Copper.

    (referring to the buycycling.com article that had many a part covered
    in copper)

    -bdbafh

  12. Kinky Cowboy said:

    On 28 Feb 2007 14:45:59 -0800, "[email hidden]"

    Quoted message said:

    On Feb 28, 1:15 pm, Kinky Cowboy <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Tubulars are no lighter than equivalent clinchers, so the weight
    saving is only the 50 to 100g per rim differential, a notional
    advantage which soon disappears when you factor in the lower rolling
    resistance of the clinchers.

    Quoted message said:

    I looked on Weight Weenies (a listing of real measured component
    weights). Veloflex tubular tire, 240g.

    Conti GP Supersonic 23c, with Conti butyl tube, is 212g on my scale.
    Veloflex Record 20c clincher fresh out of the box today is 15g less.
    The rim tape (if you use one - veloplugs are lighter) will be about
    the same as tub tape or glue, so no difference there.

    Since you're trading a bit of casing and a base tape for a pair of
    kevlar beads, it should be no surprise that making essentially the
    same tyre with the same tube as either a tubular or a clincher yields
    essentially the same total weight.

    With a bike weight of 7.0kg and Cr of .005, I get 344W on the power
    estimator athttp://sportech.online.fr, cutting to 6.8kg and Cr=.006
    gives 355W, both at 40kmh on level ground. Adding in a 5% slope and
    cutting speed to 25kmh gives 452W for our notional clincher and 458W
    for the tubular. Even powering up that slope, you'd need to save 1.5kg
    from the bike weight to compensate for that 20% increase in rolling
    resistance.

    Just as you should choose your wheels for their aero characteristics
    even at the expense of a few hundred grams of extra weight, you should
    also choose your tyres for the lowest rolling resistance commensurate
    with your desired comfort and durability criteria.

    Kinky Cowboy*

    *Batteries not included
    May contain traces of nuts
    Your milage may vary

    I wonder when somebody is going to mention the genuine advantages of
    tubulars....tick, tick, tick......NOT weight or RR.....

  13. On Mar 2, 7:57 am, "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:
    Kinky Cowboy said:

    On 28 Feb 2007 14:45:59 -0800, "[email hidden]"

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    On Feb 28, 1:15 pm, Kinky Cowboy <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Tubulars are no lighter than equivalent clinchers, so the weight
    > saving is only the 50 to 100g per rim differential, a notional
    > advantage which soon disappears when you factor in the lower rolling
    > resistance of the clinchers.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I looked on Weight Weenies (a listing of real measured component
    weights). Veloflex tubular tire, 240g.

    Quoted message said:

    Conti GP Supersonic 23c, with Conti butyl tube, is 212g on my scale.
    Veloflex Record 20c clincher fresh out of the box today is 15g less.
    The rim tape (if you use one - veloplugs are lighter) will be about
    the same as tub tape or glue, so no difference there.

    Quoted message said:

    Since you're trading a bit of casing and a base tape for a pair of
    kevlar beads, it should be no surprise that making essentially the
    same tyre with the same tube as either a tubular or a clincher yields
    essentially the same total weight.

    Quoted message said:

    With a bike weight of 7.0kg and Cr of .005, I get 344W on the power
    estimator athttp://sportech.online.fr, cutting to 6.8kg and Cr=.006
    gives 355W, both at 40kmh on level ground. Adding in a 5% slope and
    cutting speed to 25kmh gives 452W for our notional clincher and 458W
    for the tubular. Even powering up that slope, you'd need to save 1.5kg
    from the bike weight to compensate for that 20% increase in rolling
    resistance.

    Quoted message said:

    Just as you should choose your wheels for their aero characteristics
    even at the expense of a few hundred grams of extra weight, you should
    also choose your tyres for the lowest rolling resistance commensurate
    with your desired comfort and durability criteria.

    Quoted message said:

    Kinky Cowboy*

    Quoted message said:

    *Batteries not included
    May contain traces of nuts
    Your milage may vary

    I wonder when somebody is going to mention the genuine advantages of
    tubulars....tick, tick, tick......NOT weight or RR

    The joys of tubular glue??? ;-)

  14. Ozark Bicycle said:

    On Mar 2, 7:57 am, "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    On Feb 28, 6:49 pm, Kinky Cowboy <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    On 28 Feb 2007 14:45:59 -0800, "[email hidden]"

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    <[email hidden]> wrote:
    >On Feb 28, 1:15 pm, Kinky Cowboy <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    >> Tubulars are no lighter than equivalent clinchers, so the weight
    >> saving is only the 50 to 100g per rim differential, a notional
    >> advantage which soon disappears when you factor in the lower rolling
    >> resistance of the clinchers.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    >I looked on Weight Weenies (a listing of real measured component
    >weights). Veloflex tubular tire, 240g.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Conti GP Supersonic 23c, with Conti butyl tube, is 212g on my scale.
    Veloflex Record 20c clincher fresh out of the box today is 15g less.
    The rim tape (if you use one - veloplugs are lighter) will be about
    the same as tub tape or glue, so no difference there.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Since you're trading a bit of casing and a base tape for a pair of
    kevlar beads, it should be no surprise that making essentially the
    same tyre with the same tube as either a tubular or a clincher yields
    essentially the same total weight.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    With a bike weight of 7.0kg and Cr of .005, I get 344W on the power
    estimator athttp://sportech.online.fr, cutting to 6.8kg and Cr=.006
    gives 355W, both at 40kmh on level ground. Adding in a 5% slope and
    cutting speed to 25kmh gives 452W for our notional clincher and 458W
    for the tubular. Even powering up that slope, you'd need to save 1.5kg
    from the bike weight to compensate for that 20% increase in rolling
    resistance.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Just as you should choose your wheels for their aero characteristics
    even at the expense of a few hundred grams of extra weight, you should
    also choose your tyres for the lowest rolling resistance commensurate
    with your desired comfort and durability criteria.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Kinky Cowboy*

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    *Batteries not included
    May contain traces of nuts
    Your milage may vary

    Quoted message said:

    I wonder when somebody is going to mention the genuine advantages of
    tubulars....tick, tick, tick......NOT weight or RR

    The joys of tubular glue??? ;-)

    Now I wanna sniff some glue now I wanna have somethin to do
    All the kids wanna sniff some glue all the kids want somethin to do

    Joseph

  15. email hidden said:

    On Mar 2, 3:24 pm, "Ozark Bicycle"

    Quoted message said:

    On Mar 2, 7:57 am, "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]>
    wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    On Feb 28, 6:49 pm, Kinky Cowboy <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > On 28 Feb 2007 14:45:59 -0800, "[email hidden]"

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > <[email hidden]> wrote:
    > >On Feb 28, 1:15 pm, Kinky Cowboy <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > >> Tubulars are no lighter than equivalent clinchers, so the weight
    > >> saving is only the 50 to 100g per rim differential, a notional
    > >> advantage which soon disappears when you factor in the lower rolling
    > >> resistance of the clinchers.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > >I looked on Weight Weenies (a listing of real measured component
    > >weights). Veloflex tubular tire, 240g.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Conti GP Supersonic 23c, with Conti butyl tube, is 212g on my scale.
    > Veloflex Record 20c clincher fresh out of the box today is 15g less.
    > The rim tape (if you use one - veloplugs are lighter) will be about
    > the same as tub tape or glue, so no difference there.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Since you're trading a bit of casing and a base tape for a pair of
    > kevlar beads, it should be no surprise that making essentially the
    > same tyre with the same tube as either a tubular or a clincher yields
    > essentially the same total weight.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > With a bike weight of 7.0kg and Cr of .005, I get 344W on the power
    > estimator athttp://sportech.online.fr, cutting to 6.8kg and Cr=.006
    > gives 355W, both at 40kmh on level ground. Adding in a 5% slope and
    > cutting speed to 25kmh gives 452W for our notional clincher and 458W
    > for the tubular. Even powering up that slope, you'd need to save 1.5kg
    > from the bike weight to compensate for that 20% increase in rolling
    > resistance.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Just as you should choose your wheels for their aero characteristics
    > even at the expense of a few hundred grams of extra weight, you should
    > also choose your tyres for the lowest rolling resistance commensurate
    > with your desired comfort and durability criteria.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Kinky Cowboy*

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > *Batteries not included
    > May contain traces of nuts
    > Your milage may vary

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I wonder when somebody is going to mention the genuine advantages of
    tubulars....tick, tick, tick......NOT weight or RR

    Quoted message said:

    The joys of tubular glue??? ;-)

    Now I wanna sniff some glue now I wanna have somethin to do
    All the kids wanna sniff some glue all the kids want somethin to do

    Joseph- Hide quoted text -

    - Show quoted text -

    Great ref, long live (the music of) the Ramones!

  16. Ozark Bicycle said:

    On Mar 2, 7:57 am, "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]>

    Quoted message said:

    On Feb 28, 6:49 pm, Kinky Cowboy <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    On 28 Feb 2007 14:45:59 -0800, "[email hidden]"

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    <[email hidden]> wrote:
    >On Feb 28, 1:15 pm, Kinky Cowboy <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    >> Tubulars are no lighter than equivalent clinchers, so the weight
    >> saving is only the 50 to 100g per rim differential, a notional
    >> advantage which soon disappears when you factor in the lower rolling
    >> resistance of the clinchers.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    >I looked on Weight Weenies (a listing of real measured component
    >weights). Veloflex tubular tire, 240g.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Conti GP Supersonic 23c, with Conti butyl tube, is 212g on my scale.
    Veloflex Record 20c clincher fresh out of the box today is 15g less.
    The rim tape (if you use one - veloplugs are lighter) will be about
    the same as tub tape or glue, so no difference there.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Since you're trading a bit of casing and a base tape for a pair of
    kevlar beads, it should be no surprise that making essentially the
    same tyre with the same tube as either a tubular or a clincher yields
    essentially the same total weight.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    With a bike weight of 7.0kg and Cr of .005, I get 344W on the power
    estimator athttp://sportech.online.fr, cutting to 6.8kg and Cr=.006
    gives 355W, both at 40kmh on level ground. Adding in a 5% slope and
    cutting speed to 25kmh gives 452W for our notional clincher and 458W
    for the tubular. Even powering up that slope, you'd need to save 1.5kg
    from the bike weight to compensate for that 20% increase in rolling
    resistance.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Just as you should choose your wheels for their aero characteristics
    even at the expense of a few hundred grams of extra weight, you should
    also choose your tyres for the lowest rolling resistance commensurate
    with your desired comfort and durability criteria.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    Kinky Cowboy*

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    *Batteries not included
    May contain traces of nuts
    Your milage may vary

    Quoted message said:

    I wonder when somebody is going to mention the genuine advantages of
    tubulars....tick, tick, tick......NOT weight or RR

    The joys of tubular glue??? ;-)

    After gluing my own and customer's tires for over 20 years, once ya
    get the hang of it, it really is no big deal. Certainly easier than
    getting a 'Stan's tire to seat w/o getting that [censored] allover.

    One more time,
    -safe, won't roll off if flat
    -comfy-NO need for lots of air, that make many clinchers feel like
    made outta stone, to prevent pinch flats
    -all else bing equal, less flats, since no pinch flats
    -corner well, kinda like a radial tire version of a bicycle tire,
    rounder, more supple sidewalls, keeps tred on the tire better than a
    120+psi clincher, that has to have stiffer sidewalls to stay on the
    rim.

    I know some will slam these above but so what. I see NO compelling
    reason for me to switch from tubies on my 2 road bikes, a Merckx and
    NEW Gunnar rain bike.

  17. email hidden said:

    On Mar 2, 3:24 pm, "Ozark Bicycle"

    Quoted message said:

    On Mar 2, 7:57 am, "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]>
    wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    On Feb 28, 6:49 pm, Kinky Cowboy <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > On 28 Feb 2007 14:45:59 -0800, "[email hidden]"

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > <[email hidden]> wrote:
    > >On Feb 28, 1:15 pm, Kinky Cowboy <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > >> Tubulars are no lighter than equivalent clinchers, so the weight
    > >> saving is only the 50 to 100g per rim differential, a notional
    > >> advantage which soon disappears when you factor in the lower rolling
    > >> resistance of the clinchers.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > >I looked on Weight Weenies (a listing of real measured component
    > >weights). Veloflex tubular tire, 240g.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Conti GP Supersonic 23c, with Conti butyl tube, is 212g on my scale.
    > Veloflex Record 20c clincher fresh out of the box today is 15g less.
    > The rim tape (if you use one - veloplugs are lighter) will be about
    > the same as tub tape or glue, so no difference there.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Since you're trading a bit of casing and a base tape for a pair of
    > kevlar beads, it should be no surprise that making essentially the
    > same tyre with the same tube as either a tubular or a clincher yields
    > essentially the same total weight.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > With a bike weight of 7.0kg and Cr of .005, I get 344W on the power
    > estimator athttp://sportech.online.fr, cutting to 6.8kg and Cr=.006
    > gives 355W, both at 40kmh on level ground. Adding in a 5% slope and
    > cutting speed to 25kmh gives 452W for our notional clincher and 458W
    > for the tubular. Even powering up that slope, you'd need to save 1.5kg
    > from the bike weight to compensate for that 20% increase in rolling
    > resistance.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Just as you should choose your wheels for their aero characteristics
    > even at the expense of a few hundred grams of extra weight, you should
    > also choose your tyres for the lowest rolling resistance commensurate
    > with your desired comfort and durability criteria.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Kinky Cowboy*

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > *Batteries not included
    > May contain traces of nuts
    > Your milage may vary

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I wonder when somebody is going to mention the genuine advantages of
    tubulars....tick, tick, tick......NOT weight or RR

    Quoted message said:

    The joys of tubular glue??? ;-)

    Now I wanna sniff some glue now I wanna have somethin to do
    All the kids wanna sniff some glue all the kids want somethin to do

    They start off with the stuff from the LBS, but pretty soon they're
    looking for a stash of 'old formula' FasTack. ;-)

  18. email hidden said:

    On Mar 2, 3:24 pm, "Ozark Bicycle"

    Quoted message said:

    On Mar 2, 7:57 am, "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]>
    wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    On Feb 28, 6:49 pm, Kinky Cowboy <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > On 28 Feb 2007 14:45:59 -0800, "[email hidden]"

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > <[email hidden]> wrote:
    > >On Feb 28, 1:15 pm, Kinky Cowboy <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > >> Tubulars are no lighter than equivalent clinchers, so the weight
    > >> saving is only the 50 to 100g per rim differential, a notional
    > >> advantage which soon disappears when you factor in the lower rolling
    > >> resistance of the clinchers.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > >I looked on Weight Weenies (a listing of real measured component
    > >weights). Veloflex tubular tire, 240g.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Conti GP Supersonic 23c, with Conti butyl tube, is 212g on my scale.
    > Veloflex Record 20c clincher fresh out of the box today is 15g less.
    > The rim tape (if you use one - veloplugs are lighter) will be about
    > the same as tub tape or glue, so no difference there.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Since you're trading a bit of casing and a base tape for a pair of
    > kevlar beads, it should be no surprise that making essentially the
    > same tyre with the same tube as either a tubular or a clincher yields
    > essentially the same total weight.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > With a bike weight of 7.0kg and Cr of .005, I get 344W on the power
    > estimator athttp://sportech.online.fr, cutting to 6.8kg and Cr=.006
    > gives 355W, both at 40kmh on level ground. Adding in a 5% slope and
    > cutting speed to 25kmh gives 452W for our notional clincher and 458W
    > for the tubular. Even powering up that slope, you'd need to save 1.5kg
    > from the bike weight to compensate for that 20% increase in rolling
    > resistance.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Just as you should choose your wheels for their aero characteristics
    > even at the expense of a few hundred grams of extra weight, you should
    > also choose your tyres for the lowest rolling resistance commensurate
    > with your desired comfort and durability criteria.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > Kinky Cowboy*

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > *Batteries not included
    > May contain traces of nuts
    > Your milage may vary

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    I wonder when somebody is going to mention the genuine advantages of
    tubulars....tick, tick, tick......NOT weight or RR

    Quoted message said:

    The joys of tubular glue??? ;-)

    Now I wanna sniff some glue now I wanna have somethin to do
    All the kids wanna sniff some glue all the kids want somethin to do

    Joseph- Hide quoted text -

    - Show quoted text -

    Completely off topic of course. But do kids sniff glue now days?
    I've not heard that particular addiction, self abuse mentioned in
    quite awhile. Seems like there are many more toxic and dangerous
    drugs now days that glue sniffing would be considered too crude.

  19. email hidden said:

    On Mar 2, 8:57 am, "[email hidden]"

    Quoted message said:

    On Mar 2, 3:24 pm, "Ozark Bicycle"

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    On Mar 2, 7:57 am, "Qui si parla Campagnolo" <[email hidden]>
    wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > On Feb 28, 6:49 pm, Kinky Cowboy <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > > On 28 Feb 2007 14:45:59 -0800, "[email hidden]"

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > > <[email hidden]> wrote:
    > > >On Feb 28, 1:15 pm, Kinky Cowboy <[email hidden]> wrote:

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > > >> Tubulars are no lighter than equivalent clinchers, so the weight
    > > >> saving is only the 50 to 100g per rim differential, a notional
    > > >> advantage which soon disappears when you factor in the lower rolling
    > > >> resistance of the clinchers.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > > >I looked on Weight Weenies (a listing of real measured component
    > > >weights). Veloflex tubular tire, 240g.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > > Conti GP Supersonic 23c, with Conti butyl tube, is 212g on my scale.
    > > Veloflex Record 20c clincher fresh out of the box today is 15g less.
    > > The rim tape (if you use one - veloplugs are lighter) will be about
    > > the same as tub tape or glue, so no difference there.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > > Since you're trading a bit of casing and a base tape for a pair of
    > > kevlar beads, it should be no surprise that making essentially the
    > > same tyre with the same tube as either a tubular or a clincher yields
    > > essentially the same total weight.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > > With a bike weight of 7.0kg and Cr of .005, I get 344W on the power
    > > estimator athttp://sportech.online.fr, cutting to 6.8kg and Cr=.006
    > > gives 355W, both at 40kmh on level ground. Adding in a 5% slope and
    > > cutting speed to 25kmh gives 452W for our notional clincher and 458W
    > > for the tubular. Even powering up that slope, you'd need to save 1.5kg
    > > from the bike weight to compensate for that 20% increase in rolling
    > > resistance.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > > Just as you should choose your wheels for their aero characteristics
    > > even at the expense of a few hundred grams of extra weight, you should
    > > also choose your tyres for the lowest rolling resistance commensurate
    > > with your desired comfort and durability criteria.

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > > Kinky Cowboy*

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > > *Batteries not included
    > > May contain traces of nuts
    > > Your milage may vary

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    > I wonder when somebody is going to mention the genuine advantages of
    > tubulars....tick, tick, tick......NOT weight or RR

    Quoted message said:
    Quoted message said:

    The joys of tubular glue??? ;-)

    Quoted message said:

    Now I wanna sniff some glue now I wanna have somethin to do
    All the kids wanna sniff some glue all the kids want somethin to do

    Quoted message said:

    Joseph- Hide quoted text -

    Quoted message said:

    - Show quoted text -

    Completely off topic of course. But do kids sniff glue now days?
    I've not heard that particular addiction, self abuse mentioned in
    quite awhile. Seems like there are many more toxic and dangerous
    drugs now days that glue sniffing would be considered too crude.

    Reminds me of...rent this:

    http://www.amazon.com/Citizen-Ruth-Laura-Dern/dp/B00007K028

  20. Qui si parla Campagnolo said:

    I know some will slam these above but so what. I see NO compelling
    reason for me to switch from tubies on my 2 road bikes, a Merckx and
    NEW Gunnar rain bike.

    Is this off-topic? The issue was light wheels. If you care about light, you
    really care about fast, and if the tubs have higher rolling resistance, they're
    not faster, even if lighter.

    That said, the case that sew-ups have higher rolling resistance is not overwhelming:
    http://www.biketechreview.com/tires/images/AFM_tire_testing_rev4.pdf

    The best clinchers do better, perhaps, but you need to specifically choose the best.

    Dan

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