Long reach dual pivot brakes



C

* * Chas

Guest
I started putting together a 1982-3 retro frame and discovered I need
longer reach brakes - 55mm front and 49mm rear

I'd like to try dual pivot brakes. These are what I was able to find with
a long reach. Any opinions on these brakes?

Yellow Jersey House Brand

Tektro 521AG

Tektro R730

IRD B57

Shimano A-550 (RX-100)

Shimano BR-R600 or R600

Cane Creek SCR-3L

A LBS has the IRD brakes packed with Kool-Stop KS-RHD holders with both
salmon/black and salmon pads.

I looked at the Shimano BR-R600 calipers and they have the smoothest feel
but are they worth $80-$90 for each caliper?

Chas.
 
On Jun 12, 9:52 am, "* * Chas" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I started putting together a 1982-3 retro frame and discovered I need
> longer reach brakes - 55mm front and 49mm rear
>
> I'd like to try dual pivot brakes. These are what I was able to find with
> a long reach. Any opinions on these brakes?
>
> Yellow Jersey House Brand
>
> Tektro 521AG
>
> Tektro R730
>
> IRD B57
>
> Shimano A-550 (RX-100)
>
> Shimano BR-R600 or R600
>
> Cane Creek SCR-3L
>
> A LBS has the IRD brakes packed with Kool-Stop KS-RHD holders with both
> salmon/black and salmon pads.
>
> I looked at the Shimano BR-R600 calipers and they have the smoothest feel
> but are they worth $80-$90 for each caliper?
>
> Chas.


I have the Shimano A550s, with about 4000km on them now.

Nice brakes, well made, smooth feel and plenty of power, but they come
(not unexpectedlt) with the usual "OK" Shimano stock one-piece brake
pads. I looked at the BR600 ones as well, but didn't figure that they
were worth the extra.

The arch described by the brake on both models was quite "square",
whereas the arch on Tekro models was narrower towards the mounting
bolt - this mattered to me, as I wanted to retain fairly wide
mudguards with a square-ish section.

I had a nice set of Kool Stop cartridge pads on the old single pivot
brakes. When I tried to move them accross to the new A550 calipers,
the slots in the arms were too narrow for the bolt/shaft on the back
of the Kool Stop cartridges. I didn't fancy filing out the slots, so
I stuck with Shimano pads - worked fine, and kept an eye out for the
notorious "embeded grit" problem with stock Shimano pads - it didn't
happen to me anyway.

I think that there may be more than one generation of these brakes,
and much of this kit seems to be polybag/OEM rather than retail
packaged, so YMMV regarding the width of the slots.

regards,

bookieb.
 
On Jun 12, 3:52 am, "* * Chas" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I started putting together a 1982-3 retro frame and discovered I need
> longer reach brakes - 55mm front and 49mm rear
>
> I'd like to try dual pivot brakes. These are what I was able to find with
> a long reach. Any opinions on these brakes?
>
> Yellow Jersey House Brand
>
> Tektro 521AG



I have those on one bike, and the even cheaper Tektro DP with a black
plastic QR cam on another. Both are perfectly acceptable. The Shimanos
are not worth 2x the price, unless you want a slightly nicer finish.
(five minutes with a polishing wheel saves you $50) The Tektros
mounted up with Kool Stop Continentals would be my first choice in the
battle of convenience, stopping power and value--but if you don't mind
a bit of a firmer feel at the lever, some vintage side pulls would
offer you better modulation, and look far nicer. If you already have
single pivots on the frame that aren't too nasty, try a set of
Continentals first, you might be surprised at what a difference they
make.

If your frame isn't drilled for recessed brakes, you have two options,
from what I gathered doing this myself on a 70s frame. You can either
mount the front DP brake in the rear with a regular nut and put the
rear in the front with a regular nut *inside* the fork OR you can
drill the frame to accept recessed. I did the latter. Looks nice and
clean compared to the original nuts.
 
On Tue, 12 Jun 2007 04:59:36 -0700, landotter <[email protected]>
wrote:

>The Shimanos
>are not worth 2x the price, unless you want a slightly nicer finish.
>(five minutes with a polishing wheel saves you $50)


Did you polish yours in that way?

--
JT
****************************
Remove "remove" to reply
Visit http://www.jt10000.com
****************************
 
On Tue, 12 Jun 2007 01:52:37 -0700, * * Chas wrote:

> I started putting together a 1982-3 retro frame and discovered I need
> longer reach brakes - 55mm front and 49mm rear
>
> I'd like to try dual pivot brakes. These are what I was able to find
> with a long reach. Any opinions on these brakes?
>
> Yellow Jersey House Brand
>
> Tektro 521AG
>
> Tektro R730
>
> IRD B57
>
> Shimano A-550 (RX-100)
>
> Shimano BR-R600 or R600
>
> Cane Creek SCR-3L
>
> A LBS has the IRD brakes packed with Kool-Stop KS-RHD holders with both
> salmon/black and salmon pads.
>
> I looked at the Shimano BR-R600 calipers and they have the smoothest
> feel but are they worth $80-$90 for each caliper?
>
> Chas.


Nowadays Tektro and Promax make such nice brakes that I see no reason to
pay more for Shimano or other brands, especially since those other brands
(IRD, Cane Creek) often sell rebranded Tektro or Promax brakes at
inflated prices.

The Yellow Jersey brakes are Promax but not at an inflated price. I
bought a pair recently to convert a friend's bike. They look nice (I
prefer the ones with the rubber o-ring adjusters) and work just fine.
Yellow Jersey will sell you a pair of front brakes if you want, which is
helpful with conversions from nutted to recessed mounting. The brakes
were shipped priority mail and I got them in two days.
 
landotter wrote:
> On Jun 12, 3:52 am, "* * Chas" <[email protected]> wrote:
>> I started putting together a 1982-3 retro frame and discovered I need
>> longer reach brakes - 55mm front and 49mm rear
>>
>> I'd like to try dual pivot brakes. These are what I was able to find with
>> a long reach. Any opinions on these brakes?
>>
>> Yellow Jersey House Brand
>>
>> Tektro 521AG

>
>
> I have those on one bike, and the even cheaper Tektro DP with a black
> plastic QR cam on another. Both are perfectly acceptable. The Shimanos
> are not worth 2x the price, unless you want a slightly nicer finish.


i've looked at both - the tektros appear to be die cast [or thixo-formed
to be more precise], the shimanos forged. on that basis, i'd buy the
shimanos.

> (five minutes with a polishing wheel saves you $50


no, you need the right substrate to polish well. castings don't polish
so good.

>) The Tektros
> mounted up with Kool Stop Continentals would be my first choice in the
> battle of convenience, stopping power and value--but if you don't mind
> a bit of a firmer feel at the lever, some vintage side pulls would
> offer you better modulation, and look far nicer. If you already have
> single pivots on the frame that aren't too nasty, try a set of
> Continentals first, you might be surprised at what a difference they
> make.
>
> If your frame isn't drilled for recessed brakes, you have two options,
> from what I gathered doing this myself on a 70s frame. You can either
> mount the front DP brake in the rear with a regular nut and put the
> rear in the front with a regular nut *inside* the fork OR you can
> drill the frame to accept recessed. I did the latter. Looks nice and
> clean compared to the original nuts.
>
>
 
On Jun 12, 7:11 am, John Forrest Tomlinson <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Tue, 12 Jun 2007 04:59:36 -0700, landotter <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >The Shimanos
> >are not worth 2x the price, unless you want a slightly nicer finish.
> >(five minutes with a polishing wheel saves you $50)

>
> Did you polish yours in that way?


Nah, the original finish matches the rattle can paint job of that
particular bike better.
 
On Jun 12, 7:58 am, jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:
> landotter wrote:
> > On Jun 12, 3:52 am, "* * Chas" <[email protected]> wrote:
> >> I started putting together a 1982-3 retro frame and discovered I need
> >> longer reach brakes - 55mm front and 49mm rear

>
> >> I'd like to try dual pivot brakes. These are what I was able to find with
> >> a long reach. Any opinions on these brakes?

>
> >> Yellow Jersey House Brand

>
> >> Tektro 521AG

>
> > I have those on one bike, and the even cheaper Tektro DP with a black
> > plastic QR cam on another. Both are perfectly acceptable. The Shimanos
> > are not worth 2x the price, unless you want a slightly nicer finish.

>
> i've looked at both - the tektros appear to be die cast [or thixo-formed
> to be more precise], the shimanos forged. on that basis, i'd buy the
> shimanos.


Do you really think that it makes a difference for calipers? These
aren't crank arms we're talking about.
 
landotter wrote:
> On Jun 12, 7:58 am, jim beam <[email protected]> wrote:
>> landotter wrote:
>>> On Jun 12, 3:52 am, "* * Chas" <[email protected]> wrote:
>>>> I started putting together a 1982-3 retro frame and discovered I need
>>>> longer reach brakes - 55mm front and 49mm rear
>>>> I'd like to try dual pivot brakes. These are what I was able to find with
>>>> a long reach. Any opinions on these brakes?
>>>> Yellow Jersey House Brand
>>>> Tektro 521AG
>>> I have those on one bike, and the even cheaper Tektro DP with a black
>>> plastic QR cam on another. Both are perfectly acceptable. The Shimanos
>>> are not worth 2x the price, unless you want a slightly nicer finish.

>> i've looked at both - the tektros appear to be die cast [or thixo-formed
>> to be more precise], the shimanos forged. on that basis, i'd buy the
>> shimanos.

>
> Do you really think that it makes a difference for calipers? These
> aren't crank arms we're talking about.
>
>
>


well, the fatigue performance differences between the two material types
are significant. but i've never seen one of these modern thixo-formed
brakes fail. yet. they are however relatively new, so time will tell.
 
"landotter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Jun 12, 3:52 am, "* * Chas" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > I started putting together a 1982-3 retro frame and discovered I need
> > longer reach brakes - 55mm front and 49mm rear
> >
> > I'd like to try dual pivot brakes. These are what I was able to find

with
> > a long reach. Any opinions on these brakes?
> >
> > Yellow Jersey House Brand
> >
> > Tektro 521AG

>
>
> I have those on one bike, and the even cheaper Tektro DP with a black
> plastic QR cam on another. Both are perfectly acceptable. The Shimanos
> are not worth 2x the price, unless you want a slightly nicer finish.
> (five minutes with a polishing wheel saves you $50) The Tektros
> mounted up with Kool Stop Continentals would be my first choice in the
> battle of convenience, stopping power and value--but if you don't mind
> a bit of a firmer feel at the lever, some vintage side pulls would
> offer you better modulation, and look far nicer. If you already have
> single pivots on the frame that aren't too nasty, try a set of
> Continentals first, you might be surprised at what a difference they
> make.
>
> If your frame isn't drilled for recessed brakes, you have two options,
> from what I gathered doing this myself on a 70s frame. You can either
> mount the front DP brake in the rear with a regular nut and put the
> rear in the front with a regular nut *inside* the fork OR you can
> drill the frame to accept recessed. I did the latter. Looks nice and
> clean compared to the original nuts.
>
>


All of my single pivot brakes are short reach. Frame has recesses.

I realized last week that after a year or so of riding, I've never locked
up the brakes - then I realized that I weigh a lot more than I did 25-30
years ago.

That's another reason for trying DP brakes.

Chas.
 
On Tue, 12 Jun 2007 06:52:44 -0700, landotter <[email protected]>
wrote:

>On Jun 12, 7:11 am, John Forrest Tomlinson <[email protected]>
>wrote:
>> On Tue, 12 Jun 2007 04:59:36 -0700, landotter <[email protected]>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >The Shimanos
>> >are not worth 2x the price, unless you want a slightly nicer finish.
>> >(five minutes with a polishing wheel saves you $50)

>>
>> Did you polish yours in that way?

>
>Nah, the original finish matches the rattle can paint job of that
>particular bike better.


Have you ever tried polishing something similar?

--
JT
****************************
Remove "remove" to reply
Visit http://www.jt10000.com
****************************
 
On Jun 12, 6:34 pm, John Forrest Tomlinson <[email protected]>
wrote:
> On Tue, 12 Jun 2007 06:52:44 -0700, landotter <[email protected]>
> wrote:
>
> >On Jun 12, 7:11 am, John Forrest Tomlinson <[email protected]>
> >wrote:
> >> On Tue, 12 Jun 2007 04:59:36 -0700, landotter <[email protected]>
> >> wrote:

>
> >> >The Shimanos
> >> >are not worth 2x the price, unless you want a slightly nicer finish.
> >> >(five minutes with a polishing wheel saves you $50)

>
> >> Did you polish yours in that way?

>
> >Nah, the original finish matches the rattle can paint job of that
> >particular bike better.

>
> Have you ever tried polishing something similar?


Cast motorcycle engine side case covers. Didn't go for a mirror
finish, but some compound on a cotton wheel got them pretty darn
shiny.
 
In article <[email protected]>,
landotter <[email protected]> wrote:

> On Jun 12, 3:52 am, "* * Chas" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > I started putting together a 1982-3 retro frame and discovered I need
> > longer reach brakes - 55mm front and 49mm rear
> >
> > I'd like to try dual pivot brakes. These are what I was able to find with
> > a long reach. Any opinions on these brakes?
> >
> > Yellow Jersey House Brand
> >
> > Tektro 521AG

>
>
> I have those on one bike, and the even cheaper Tektro DP with a black
> plastic QR cam on another. Both are perfectly acceptable. The Shimanos
> are not worth 2x the price, unless you want a slightly nicer finish.
> (five minutes with a polishing wheel saves you $50) The Tektros
> mounted up with Kool Stop Continentals would be my first choice in the
> battle of convenience, stopping power and value--but if you don't mind
> a bit of a firmer feel at the lever, some vintage side pulls would
> offer you better modulation, and look far nicer. If you already have
> single pivots on the frame that aren't too nasty, try a set of
> Continentals first, you might be surprised at what a difference they
> make.


I have used the Tektro (actually, the Nashbars which are almost
certainly rebadged Tektros) long-reach calipers, and they work
acceptably.

That said, a friend of mine did some eyeballing of these brakes compared
to the Shimanos, and he says that Shimano scaled up the arms where the
brake cable attaches to match the longer-reach arms, thus matching the
leverage ratio of their standard brakes.

I think the Shimanos may also be built a little beefier (presumably to
compensate for the greater flexiness of the longer arms all around) in a
way the Nashbar wasn't.

That said, the low price of the Tektros makes them an awfully convenient
option for upgrading frames where good brakes could cost a multiple of
the bike's garage-sale purchase price.

--
Ryan Cousineau [email protected] http://www.wiredcola.com/
"I don't want kids who are thinking about going into mathematics
to think that they have to take drugs to succeed." -Paul Erdos
 
On Jun 12, 8:02 pm, Ryan Cousineau <[email protected]> wrote:
> In article <[email protected]>,
>
>
>
> landotter <[email protected]> wrote:
> > On Jun 12, 3:52 am, "* * Chas" <[email protected]> wrote:
> > > I started putting together a 1982-3 retro frame and discovered I need
> > > longer reach brakes - 55mm front and 49mm rear

>
> > > I'd like to try dual pivot brakes. These are what I was able to find with
> > > a long reach. Any opinions on these brakes?

>
> > > Yellow Jersey House Brand

>
> > > Tektro 521AG

>
> > I have those on one bike, and the even cheaper Tektro DP with a black
> > plastic QR cam on another. Both are perfectly acceptable. The Shimanos
> > are not worth 2x the price, unless you want a slightly nicer finish.
> > (five minutes with a polishing wheel saves you $50) The Tektros
> > mounted up with Kool Stop Continentals would be my first choice in the
> > battle of convenience, stopping power and value--but if you don't mind
> > a bit of a firmer feel at the lever, some vintage side pulls would
> > offer you better modulation, and look far nicer. If you already have
> > single pivots on the frame that aren't too nasty, try a set of
> > Continentals first, you might be surprised at what a difference they
> > make.

>
> I have used the Tektro (actually, the Nashbars which are almost
> certainly rebadged Tektros) long-reach calipers, and they work
> acceptably.


Yeah, those are the ones I got and put on the Trusty Aerospace
Viscount. I can lock the rear from the hoods and stop on a dime using
both--even though the front is enough, whatevah. The old 600s were far
prettier, but the barrel adjusters were chemically welded. I even kept
the cheezy stock pads, as they don't seem to pick up glass, and don't
goo up the rim. The modulation is actually nicer than the fancy
Tektros I got on another bike--which I'm guessing is artificially
induced by having strung the thing with Wally World cable and housing
because it was a Sunday. I did grind the ends, but the **** has no
lining. I think the cable eventually wears itself a little groove, as
the braking feel smooths out in a few months. I keep meaning to
replace it, and REI keeps meaning to sell shorter bits of housing for
less than $25, but they don't.

Two years ago it still had those, fenders (now in fender heaven from a
little spill), ma3s (toiiiiing), and those wooden feeling Hutchinsons:
http://farm1.static.flickr.com/27/36576981_80c31823c2_o.jpg

Now a dry day bike without fenders, the new brakes, a Nashbar $99
Mavic/Sora wheel kit (comes in the shape of a wheel!), and skinny
stupid light fun skinwall tires. Same saddle: the NOS Selle Royale
Prestige. When the aluminum rails finally break, I will have a proper
funeral. Best saddle ever.

/ramble
 
On Jun 12, 11:09 pm, landotter wrote:
> On Jun 12, 8:02 pm, Ryan Cousineau wrote:
>
> > I have used the Tektro (actually, the Nashbars which are almost
> > certainly rebadged Tektros) long-reach calipers, and they work
> > acceptably.

>
> Yeah, those are the ones I got and put on the Trusty Aerospace
> Viscount.....


Not much of a brake to stop one of these, eh? <http://
www.simonb6.co.uk/2002/DS-VC8-50258.jpg>

--
Tom Sherman - Holstein-Friesland Bovinia
The weather is here, wish you were beautiful
 
On Jun 12, 11:28 pm, Johnny Sunset <[email protected]> wrote:
> On Jun 12, 11:09 pm, landotter wrote:
>
> > On Jun 12, 8:02 pm, Ryan Cousineau wrote:

>
> > > I have used the Tektro (actually, the Nashbars which are almost
> > > certainly rebadged Tektros) long-reach calipers, and they work
> > > acceptably.

>
> > Yeah, those are the ones I got and put on the Trusty Aerospace
> > Viscount.....

>
> Not much of a brake to stop one of these, eh? <http://www.simonb6.co.uk/2002/DS-VC8-50258.jpg>
>


I'll have you know that the frame is indeed built from the world's
finest straight wall tubing because the adverts had crazy impressive
numbers and stuff! It's the only production racing bike to be
compatible with poofy blouses and gogo boots:

http://sheldonbrown.com/lambert.html

Amusingly enough, if I put some modern bits on it, like a CF fork, I
could easily get it down to 17#, which is pretty good for a thrift
store bike. ;-)
 
"landotter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> On Jun 12, 11:28 pm, Johnny Sunset <[email protected]> wrote:
> > On Jun 12, 11:09 pm, landotter wrote:
> >
> > > On Jun 12, 8:02 pm, Ryan Cousineau wrote:

> >
> > > > I have used the Tektro (actually, the Nashbars which are almost
> > > > certainly rebadged Tektros) long-reach calipers, and they work
> > > > acceptably.

> >
> > > Yeah, those are the ones I got and put on the Trusty Aerospace
> > > Viscount.....

> >
> > Not much of a brake to stop one of these, eh?

<http://www.simonb6.co.uk/2002/DS-VC8-50258.jpg>
> >

>
> I'll have you know that the frame is indeed built from the world's
> finest straight wall tubing because the adverts had crazy impressive
> numbers and stuff! It's the only production racing bike to be
> compatible with poofy blouses and gogo boots:
>
> http://sheldonbrown.com/lambert.html
>
> Amusingly enough, if I put some modern bits on it, like a CF fork, I
> could easily get it down to 17#, which is pretty good for a thrift
> store bike. ;-)
> \


Someone tried to trade me a 1973 Lambert Professional Grand Prix Deluxe
straight up for my 1972 Gitane Super Corsa. I took the Lambert out for an
hour spin on my local criterium course. To say that it had oversteer was
an understatement. The camber on the inside fork blade changed to match
any curve.... ;-0

Chas.
 
On Jun 12, 6:52 pm, "* * Chas" <[email protected]> wrote:
> I started putting together a 1982-3 retro frame and discovered I need
> longer reach brakes - 55mm front and 49mm rear
>
> I'd like to try dual pivot brakes. These are what I was able to find with
> a long reach. Any opinions on these brakes?


>
> Chas.


I just bought and fitted up a pair of Tektro 536 (?) and they stop the
bike pretty well, also are nice and shiny ... and did I mention cheap?

Donga
 
"* * Chas" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
>I started putting together a 1982-3 retro frame and discovered I need
> longer reach brakes - 55mm front and 49mm rear
>
> I'd like to try dual pivot brakes. These are what I was able to find with
> a long reach. Any opinions on these brakes?
>
> Yellow Jersey House Brand
>
> Tektro 521AG
>
> Tektro R730
>
> IRD B57
>
> Shimano A-550 (RX-100)
>
> Shimano BR-R600 or R600
>
> Cane Creek SCR-3L
>
> A LBS has the IRD brakes packed with Kool-Stop KS-RHD holders with both
> salmon/black and salmon pads.
>
> I looked at the Shimano BR-R600 calipers and they have the smoothest feel
> but are they worth $80-$90 for each caliper?
>
> Chas.
>
>



www.biketoolsetc.com has a bunch of long reach dual pivot brakes, and an
extra long reach Tektro is 9.95 right now (likely too long for most
applications).

Just gave them an order for ball bearings (stainless steel ones are on sale
in June). The local bearing shop quoted twice the price I paid them for
bearings in 2005.

Nothing like some $20 garage sale bikes for getting me to spend $80 on a
parts order.

Dave H.
======
 

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