Looking for a cheap road bike

Discussion in 'Road Cycling' started by Jesse, Aug 6, 2003.

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  1. Jesse

    Jesse Guest

    Hi --

    I own a Raleigh M20 which I bought back a few years ago when I was in college for neighborhood
    riding. Now I've gotten into riding on paved trails and the mountain bike just doesn't cut it; it
    feels heavy and slow. I'd really like to buy a road bike but they're all really expensive. Anyone
    have any recommendations for cheaper road bikes? The cheapest (new) one I've seen is the 2003
    Motobecane Mirage listed on bikesdirect.com for $325. Anyone know anything about this one?
    Otherwise, can anyone recommend any resources for buying an inexpensive, preferably new, road bike?

    Thanks.
     
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  2. > I own a Raleigh M20 which I bought back a few years ago when I was in college for neighborhood
    > riding. Now I've gotten into riding on paved trails and the mountain bike just doesn't cut it;
    > it feels heavy and slow. I'd really like to buy a road bike but they're all really expensive.
    > Anyone have any recommendations for cheaper road bikes? The cheapest (new) one I've seen is
    > the 2003 Motobecane Mirage listed on bikesdirect.com for $325. Anyone know anything about this
    > one? Otherwise, can anyone recommend any resources for buying an inexpensive, preferably new,
    > road bike?

    Fit is *the* key issue on a road bike, especially so on your first one. Your best bet is to save up
    a bit more money and find a local dealer who's known to be really good at matching up the rider to
    the bike, because the right bike is going to be one that's going to beg you to ride it, one that
    can't stand sitting in the garage, one that makes you feel guilty because you'd rather be out riding
    your bike than doing just about anything else.

    Conversely, a bike that doesn't quite fit right, or has something that's not running the way it
    ought to, is likely to spend its time gathering dust and become one of those "Well, tried the road
    bike thing, glad I didn't spend even more money on it" deals.

    Entry-level road bikes at shops have improved in quality and come down quite a bit in price lately;
    the '04 TREK 1000, for example, runs about $520. And aside from fit, a good local dealer is going to
    maintain a sense of ownership about the bike, so that if something isn't the way it ought to be,
    they're going to do what they can to take care of it.

    The most expensive bike you can buy is the one that doesn't get ridden much. The best "deal" on a
    bike... well, I've laid out that stuff above!

    --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles http://www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
     
  3. Rick Onanian

    Rick Onanian Guest

    On 6 Aug 2003 08:06:58 -0700, Jesse <[email protected]> wrote:
    > expensive. Anyone have any recommendations for cheaper road bikes? The cheapest (new) one I've
    > seen is the 2003 Motobecane Mirage listed on bikesdirect.com for $325. Anyone know anything about
    > this one? Otherwise, can anyone recommend any resources for buying an inexpensive, preferably new,
    > road bike?

    For new bikes, I've seen a Diamondback at Dick's Sporting Goods (a large chain of sporting goods
    stores) for around that price. It appeared to be a worthwhile ride.

    > Thanks.
    --
    Rick Onanian
     
  4. Dave Jackson

    Dave Jackson Guest

    In article <[email protected]>, [email protected]
    (Jesse) wrote:

    > Hi --
    >
    > I own a Raleigh M20 which I bought back a few years ago when I was in college for neighborhood
    > riding. Now I've gotten into riding on paved trails and the mountain bike just doesn't cut it;
    > it feels heavy and slow. I'd really like to buy a road bike but they're all really expensive.
    > Anyone have any recommendations for cheaper road bikes? The cheapest (new) one I've seen is
    > the 2003 Motobecane Mirage listed on bikesdirect.com for $325. Anyone know anything about this
    > one? Otherwise, can anyone recommend any resources for buying an inexpensive, preferably new,
    > road bike?
    >
    > Thanks.

    It's been a while since I have seen a new road bike with downtube shifters.

    Dave in Minnesota
     
  5. Jesse wrote in message <[email protected]>...
    >I'd really like to buy a road bike

    Just remember, don't go mid range.

    As an example, if you buy a Colnago Master X- light with Campag Centaur then it will be sitting
    unused in the garage in six months time when you have to upgrade to a Colnago C40 B-Stay.

    Same goes for Pinarello, cheap out with a Motello running Campag Veloce and soon you will be
    upgrading to the Prince SL running full Record.

    Look, we're talking bikes, this is the cheapest of all wheeled road sports. You just can't spend big
    money on cycling. Three or so new top end frames a season along with full gear and kit replacement
    means you can still stay under $25,000 per year!

    One last thing, a 52 cm frame is the sweet spot for frame appearance, don't let some sales person
    talk you into any other size.
     
  6. Bob M

    Bob M Guest

    On Wed, 06 Aug 2003 15:28:45 GMT, Mike Jacoubowsky <[email protected]> wrote:

    >> I own a Raleigh M20 which I bought back a few years ago when I was in college for neighborhood
    >> riding. Now I've gotten into riding on paved trails and the mountain bike just doesn't cut it;
    >> it feels heavy and slow. I'd really like to buy a road bike but they're all really expensive.
    >> Anyone have any recommendations for cheaper road bikes? The cheapest (new) one I've seen is
    >> the 2003 Motobecane Mirage listed on bikesdirect.com for $325. Anyone know anything about this
    >> one? Otherwise, can anyone recommend any resources for buying an inexpensive, preferably new,
    >> road bike?
    >
    > Fit is *the* key issue on a road bike, especially so on your first one. Your best bet is to save
    > up a bit more money and find a local dealer who's known to be really good at matching up the rider
    > to the bike, because the right bike is going to be one that's going to beg you to ride it, one
    > that can't stand sitting in the garage, one that makes you feel guilty because you'd rather be out
    > riding your bike than doing just about anything else.
    >
    > Conversely, a bike that doesn't quite fit right, or has something that's not running the way it
    > ought to, is likely to spend its time gathering dust and become one of those "Well, tried the road
    > bike thing, glad I didn't spend even more money on it" deals.
    >
    > Entry-level road bikes at shops have improved in quality and come down quite a bit in price
    > lately; the '04 TREK 1000, for example, runs about $520. And aside from fit, a good local dealer
    > is going to maintain a sense of ownership about the bike, so that if something isn't the way it
    > ought to be, they're going to do what they can to take care of it.
    >
    > The most expensive bike you can buy is the one that doesn't get ridden much. The best "deal" on a
    > bike... well, I've laid out that stuff above!
    >
    > --Mike-- Chain Reaction Bicycles http://www.ChainReactionBicycles.com
    >
    >
    >

    Fit is definitely important. I have a Trek that I've had to buy certain seats and set back seatposts
    in order to get the correct knee-to-pedal- spindle distance for me and have had to buy a long stem.
    This year, when I ordered a Brooks saddle, I couldn't get the correct knee-to-pedal-spindle distance
    even with a set-back seatpost. So, I gave up and got a Lemond. Even on the Lemond, I have my Brooks
    pushed back as far as it will go, and I'm ordering a longer stem (and I've reversed the stem and put
    it down about half an inch). Fit is by far the most important aspect on a racing bike. On a mountain
    bike, fit doesn't seem to be as important, as I'm always off the seat/back on the seat, walking,
    changing body positions. On a racing bike, I tend to get in one position and stay there, although I
    do climb out of the saddle quite a bit.

    --
    Bob M in CT Remove 'x.' to reply
     
  7. Rick Onanian

    Rick Onanian Guest

    On Wed, 06 Aug 2003 16:14:55 GMT, Bob M <[email protected]> wrote:

    >> Fit is *the* key issue on a road bike, especially so on your first one.

    > Fit is definitely important. I have a Trek that I've had to buy certain

    I'll third that motion. I regretted my Giant TCR2 pretty badly until I was able to make it fit
    near properly.

    Now, with a better fit and pedals that I can actually get into, the only thing I miss is a triple
    crank, but the fit and pedals make it possible for me to survive the double anyway.

    --
    Rick Onanian
     
  8. Bob M

    Bob M Guest

    On Wed, 06 Aug 2003 13:49:04 -0400, Rick Onanian <[email protected]> wrote:

    > On Wed, 06 Aug 2003 16:14:55 GMT, Bob M <[email protected]> wrote:
    >
    >>> Fit is *the* key issue on a road bike, especially so on your first one.
    >
    >> Fit is definitely important. I have a Trek that I've had to buy certain
    >
    > I'll third that motion. I regretted my Giant TCR2 pretty badly until I was able to make it fit
    > near properly.
    >
    > Now, with a better fit and pedals that I can actually get into, the only thing I miss is a triple
    > crank, but the fit and pedals make it possible for me to survive the double anyway.
    >

    If you have the square bottom bracket, you can get a 110 BCD crank that'll lighten the load. They
    are hard to find, but not impossible. I ordered just such a crank for my Trek until I bought my new
    bike, which has a triple. I'm keeping my Trek as an indoor training type of bike.

    --
    Bob M in CT Remove 'x.' to reply
     
  9. Fred

    Fred Guest

    "Rick Onanian" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:eek:[email protected]...
    > On Wed, 06 Aug 2003 16:14:55 GMT, Bob M <[email protected]> wrote:
    >
    > >> Fit is *the* key issue on a road bike, especially so on your first
    one.
    >
    > > Fit is definitely important. I have a Trek that I've had to buy
    certain
    >
    > I'll third that motion. I regretted my Giant TCR2 pretty badly until I was able to make it fit
    > near properly.
    >
    > Now, with a better fit and pedals that I can actually get into, the only thing I miss is a triple
    > crank, but the fit and pedals make it possible for me to survive the double anyway.
    >
    > --
    > Rick Onanian

    I certainly am enjoying my TCR2 , - (but you wouldn't call that a cheap bike , would you, at about a
    grand, in pounds that is?) And by the way, there are only very few instances when I wish for a
    triple chain ring.

    Fred
     
  10. Rick Onanian

    Rick Onanian Guest

    On Wed, 06 Aug 2003 20:34:56 GMT, Bob M <[email protected]> wrote:
    >> into, the only thing I miss is a triple crank, but the
    >
    > If you have the square bottom bracket, you can get a 110 BCD crank that'll lighten the load. They
    > are hard to find, but not impossible. I

    Good point. I might just do that if I find I'm still unhappy with this bike. Maybe I can find it
    with longer crankarms, too, though that might affect my fit badly.
    --
    Rick Onanian
     
  11. Rick Onanian

    Rick Onanian Guest

    On Wed, 6 Aug 2003 21:13:20 +0000 (UTC), Fred <"Fred"@invalid.btinternet.com> wrote:
    > I certainly am enjoying my TCR2 , - (but you wouldn't call that a cheap bike , would you, at about
    > a grand, in pounds that is?)

    I got it discounted for $1,000. It's not a cheap bike, but it is no high-end or even mid-range road
    racing bike -- it's just a darn good value. Under 20 pounds [weight], for $1,000.

    > And by the way, there are only very few instances when I wish for a triple chain ring.

    I have to say, this bike does GO when I actually put my legs into it; I just don't get the
    opportunity to leisurely climb at a slow, spinning pace. All my climbs on this bike are racing
    climbs [though, I'm sure, not proper racing technique].

    > Fred
    --
    Rick Onanian
     
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