rec.sport.unicycling · Public discussion

looking for a new frame

Started by ChangingLINKS.com · · Last activity · 2 posts · 313 views

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rec.sport.unicycling
Published
24 August 2005
Last activity
13 September 2005
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ChangingLINKS.com
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  1. Original post
    ChangingLINKS.com
    Archived post
    #1

    Today, my welder quit.
    After I showed him that I had broken through one of his 4 welds, he
    plainly said that he would not weld for me any more.

    I had a Nimbus II frame.

    1. I liked it a lot because of the space between the forks. The spaced
    allowed for a lot more mud to pass through before bogging down the
    uni.

    2. I also like the access to the inside of the frame. I could easily
    wire a cyclometer through the frame so that the cable would not get
    snagged by mud or my foot.

    3. I liked the material of the frame. I welded it to a GB4 seat post,
    and never needed to adjust it, or worry about pulling the seat around on
    a drop or climb.

    4. I liked the weight of the Nimbus II. I am not a weight-weeny, and the
    frame seemed to weight about as much as other frames.

    5. I liked the price. It's one of the cheapest frames available at $40
    new.

    On the other hand, I did not like:
    The extra width in the bearing holders.
    The strength (I cracked it every 100 miles).
    (One of those cracks was the GB4 seat post)
    Once, on a sloppy descent, the fork gouged my leg through armor.

    I'd like recommendations on a new frame. I am not sure I can bring
    myself to paying $400-600 for a *frame* but I'd like to hear why those
    are better (just in case). I'm afraid to put a lot of money into a frame
    because I seem to break so many components (and I'm not even a good
    rider).

    I am interested in the "used mountain bike suspension fork as frame"
    idea - heck, I'd buy one new if that was an awesome way to go. I think
    it could add more entertainment to the rides on extreme terrain.

    I'm also interested in the new Kris Holm frame (it fits Profile cranks,
    right?) and anything someone can say about Koxx1.

    Thanks in advance for your input. I am uniless right now, and need to
    get back on the trail - but it would be nice to have something
    ultra-durable.

    --
    ChangingLINKS.com - member

    Wishing you Happiness, Joy and Laughter,
    Drew Brown
    'Changing LINKS' (http://www.ChangingLINKS.com)
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    ChangingLINKS.com's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/5468
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/42826

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  2. ChangingLINKS.com
    Archived post
    #2

    Update:

    Since the time I last posted, I contacted several people about frames. I
    settled on the idea of 'using an old mountain bike crown'
    (http://tinyurl.com/8pb6k) as the foundation for a frame.

    Some pros:
    More width for mud clearance
    Custom frame (custom leg length, bearing holders, legs)
    broken fork legs (like the ones I produce) can be replaced
    large diameter tubing for durability

    Some cons:
    It is difficult to find the crown because they are obsolete
    I predict that it will weigh more

    In my quest to find a crown, it has been quite a scavenger hunt. I got
    my hopes up two days ago when it appeared that I could buy a brand new
    crown for RST (brand) from The Bicycle Sport Shop for $20.
    Unfortunately, the bike shop mechanic misunderstood me. He thought (even
    though I provided pics) that I just wanted the STEERER TUBE. On of the
    other mechanics surprisingly offered that another bike shop had a box of
    crowns. I drove down there (through the rain with no top) and asked.
    After some "beating around the bush" I was able to see this "box of
    crowns" at "University Cyclery."
    They had matching one with threaded 1" steerer tube that was about 6"
    long. I passed those and select one like so for $50:

    Steerer tube
    10 1/8" long! (I'll be using a short seat post)
    1 1/8" diameter (which cleanly fits a 25.4 seat post)
    Pressed into the crown
    Seems able to rust

    Crown
    Aluminum
    clearence between the forks 3.75 (gained 1/4" over the Nimbus
    II)!
    total width of the crown about 6 1/8 (the Nimbus II is about 5
    7/8"😉
    double bolts clamp the fork legs (must determine torque)

    'Kris convinced me to use machined bearing holders'
    (http://tinyurl.com/cayno)

    Finally, I have a cheap Miata seat post that came with my miata seat.
    I'll be using it for now. I'll update this thread with pics later (and
    during progress). At this point, I'll be happy if I can get the frame to
    last past CMW. I was cracking my last frame every 100 miles or so.

    --
    ChangingLINKS.com - member

    Wishing you Happiness, Joy and Laughter,
    Drew Brown
    'Changing LINKS' (http://www.ChangingLINKS.com)
    ------------------------------------------------------------------------
    ChangingLINKS.com's Profile: http://www.unicyclist.com/profile/5468
    View this thread: http://www.unicyclist.com/thread/42826

    Report

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