Low maintenance, simple commute bike

[kotterr]

I am looking for a low maintenance, simple commute bike. I have been biking for fun for many years, but now I am interested in commuting. My main concern is maintenance. I don't want a bike that needs hundreds of dollars of maintenance from year to year. From personal experience, problems with bikes happen in this order:

1. Gear shifting system goes out of order, causing unexpected gear changes between two gears (leads to falling pedals).
2. Wheels get bent from use, needing maintenance.
3. Bent wheels cause simple braking system to touch wheel when not engaged.

So what I am looking for is a single speed bike (no gears, no gear switching system), disc brakes and disc type wheel (steel or alloy, no traditional spokes!).

Any suggestions will be fine. I realize that expensive bikes can pay for themselves in the long run by eliminating the need for expensive maintenance plaguing cheaper models.

Also, I like dual suspensions, but I realize that may not be possible with these requirements.

Just to clarify, the wheels I'm looking for are like this:

http://store.aerospoke.com/img-700c-red._896.gif

Only they don't have to be made of carbon or composites. I don't mind aluminum alloy or steel.

 

[vspa]

I am looking for a low maintenance, simple commute bike. I have been biking for fun for many years, but now I am interested in commuting. My main concern is maintenance. I don't want a bike that needs hundreds of dollars of maintenance from year to year. From personal experience, problems with bikes happen in this order: 1. Gear shifting system goes out of order, causing unexpected gear changes between two gears (leads to falling pedals). 2. Wheels get bent from use, needing maintenance. 3. Bent wheels cause simple braking system to touch wheel when not engaged.

calibrating gear shifting is not expensive, and truing (making it straight) a wheel neither, yes with disc brakes the rim wont touch the brakes even if untrue,

So what I am looking for is a single speed bike (no gears, no gear switching system), disc brakes and disc type wheel (steel or alloy, no traditional spokes!).

yes it is possible to build such a bike on a budget, except for the non-spoke wheel

Just to clarify, the wheels I'm looking for are like this: http://store.aerospoke.com/img-700c-red._896.gif Only they don't have to be made of carbon or composites. I don't mind aluminum alloy or steel.

those wheels have a beejezzus price, there are no cheap alternatives, what you can do is install quality 2.0mm spokes (they will cost you 1 dollar each aprox) on your new disc-brake wheel

 

[kotterr]

I realize those wheels cost a lot, but I thought it was because of the carbon fiber/expensive composites used to make it light. I'm wondering why they don't make wheels like that, but out of steel. Wouldn't that be cheaper and easier to make? Steel car rims are rather cheap.

Anyway, I suppose I can live with regular steel spokes. So what bike would you recommend?

 

[alienator]

I realize those wheels cost a lot, but I thought it was because of the carbon fiber/expensive composites used to make it light. I'm wondering why they don't make wheels like that, but out of steel. Wouldn't that be cheaper and easier to make? Steel car rims are rather cheap.   Anyway, I suppose I can live with regular steel spokes. So what bike would you recommend?

First, Aerospoke wheels are not top quality wheels. They quite often are not true, sometimes by a lot. They're not light weight, if that's what you're looking for. An Aerospoke wheel set weighs on the order of 2600-2700g. You can actually get wheel sets made with good ol' stainless steel spokes that weigh less than one of the Aerospoke wheels. My wheel set weighs about as much as the rear Aerospoke wheel. The reason that such a 5 spoke wheelset isn't made of steel is that it would be even heavier than the Aerospoke set. It'd be ridiculously heavy. Why are Aerospokes popular? It's because hipsters on fixies and singlespeeds think they look cool. Oh, yeah. There's this: Aerospoke wheels aren't that aero.

 

[vspa]

I realize those wheels cost a lot, but I thought it was because of the carbon fiber/expensive composites used to make it light. I'm wondering why they don't make wheels like that, but out of steel. Wouldn't that be cheaper and easier to make? Steel car rims are rather cheap.   Anyway, I suppose I can live with regular steel spokes. So what bike would you recommend?

no, there are quality spokes as opposed to regular, both made of steel, e.g. http://www.excelsports.com/main.asp?page=8&description=Champion+Spoke+14+Gauge&vendorCode=DT&major=1&minor=30 your (URBAN) bike will look more or less like this one e.g. http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/town/urban_utility/earl/earl/# the disc brakes you want will face you with some challenges, the frame and the fork need to have been design for those, and you need hubs designed for them too, you might find your dream bike ready to buy somewhere on the Internet, its quite possible, you are not asking for something crazy, or you can buy the parts yourself and then have someone building it for you, so good luck !

 

[vspa]

sorry i thought the Aerospoke were in the 800 usd. (each) price range, they are Aluminium i thought it was carbon (they cost 325 usd.) but they are not that good according to alienator, so

 

[kotterr]

What about this bike:

Does it fit my requirements?

http://www.amazon.com/Diamondback-Assault-China-13-Inch-Medium/dp/B005NXMA2A

Only it lacks a front brake (disc preferably) and only has front suspension.

It's a shame they don't make steel bike rims like they do for entry level cars.

 

[vspa]

What about this bike: Does it fit my requirements? http://www.amazon.com/Diamondback-Assault-China-13-Inch-Medium/dp/B005NXMA2A

Only it lacks a front brake (disc preferably) and only has front suspension.   It's a shame they don't make steel bike rims like they do for entry level cars.

no, that one is for freeride or people who use it for acrobatics and jumps

 

[kotterr]

Originally Posted by vspa .


no, there are quality spokes as opposed to regular, both made of steel,
e.g. http://www.excelsports.com/main.asp?page=8&description=Champion+Spoke+14+Gauge&vendorCode=DT&major=1&minor=30
your (URBAN) bike will look more or less like this one
e.g. http://www.trekbikes.com/us/en/bikes/town/urban_utility/earl/earl/#
the disc brakes you want will face you with some challenges, the frame and the fork need to have been design for those, and you need hubs designed for them too,
you might find your dream bike ready to buy somewhere on the Internet, its quite possible, you are not asking for something crazy, or you can buy the parts yourself and then have someone building it for you, so good luck !

So I have to personally build my bike? I can't just buy one with those specifications?

 

[alfeng]

Originally Posted by kotterr .

I realize those wheels cost a lot, but I thought it was because of the carbon fiber/expensive composites used to make it light. I'm wondering why they don't make wheels like that, but out of steel. Wouldn't that be cheaper and easier to make? Steel car rims are rather cheap.

Anyway, I suppose I can live with regular steel spokes. So what bike would you recommend?

A bicycle wheel made as you describe would be too heavy to be practical ... it would essentially be a FLYWHEEL.

If you want an almost bombproof wheel, then plan on using a 2.3" tire ... either a 26" (26er) or 29er (700x58) ... because one of the functions of the "tire" is to protect the rim ...

Have your wheelbuilder re-drill both the hubs & rims so that instead of 28h they are 56h ... or, go from 32h to 64h ... or, 36h to 72h ... and lace the wheels either x3 or x4 ...

• SURLY makes Single Speed hubs with different O.L.D.s ...
• the WHITE INDUSTRIES ENO hub is also available with different O.L.D.s.

Find the suspension frame & fork of your choice ... and, build it up as a Single Speed ...

• a Santa Cruz BLUR frame + Marzocchi fork should work for you if your budget allows
• figure $2000+ when you are done with about 3/4s of the cost being the frame & fork
• if you want a 29er, then anticipate spending more

 

[vspa]

hey the forums have a singlespeed column: http://www.cyclingforums.com/f/153/singlespeed

 

[kotterr]

Originally Posted by alfeng .


A bicycle wheel made as you describe would be too heavy to be practical ... it would essentially be a FLYWHEEL.

If you want an almost bombproof wheel, then plan on using a 2.3" tire ... either a 26" (26er) or 29er (700x58) ... because one of the functions of the "tire" is to protect the rim ...

Have your wheelbuilder re-drill both the hubs & rims so that instead of 28h they are 56h ... or, go from 32h to 64h ... or, 36h to 72h ... and lace the wheels either x3 or x4 ...

• SURLY makes Single Speed hubs with different O.L.D.s ...
• the WHITE INDUSTRIES ENO hub is also available with different O.L.D.s.

Find the suspension frame & fork of your choice ... and, build it up as a Single Speed ...

• a Santa Cruz BLUR frame + Marzocchi fork should work for you if your budget allows
• figure $2000+ when you are done with about 3/4s of the cost being the frame & fork
• if you want a 29er, then anticipate spending more

Could you explain why I need such an expensive fork and frame? Those are interestingly enough the two items which have never needed repairs on my previously owned bikes. In fact, I moved onto other bikes for other reasons before I ever had to repair those parts.

 

[kotterr]

Anyway, if I'm going to be assembling my bike from parts, I want exactly the kind of bike I like.

On frames and forks: I've never had these break on me. Ever. And I've ridden some very cheap bikes with low end components. I'm a heavy guy so a few more pounds of weight in the components don't bother me.

My question is:

I'm pretty big (about 6 feet). What kind of frame do I get? How do I get a frame that is compatible with front and rear shocks (dual suspension)? Where do I get such shocks?

What other compatibility issues am I going to face when looking for parts? Also, can you list the parts that I will need to build it (front wheel, rear wheel, frame, etc)?

 

[alfeng]

Check both EXCEL SPORTS & COLORADO CYCLIST ...

Combined, they will have everything you will need ...

• EXCEL should have the 135mm SURLY & WHITE INDUSTRIES ENO hubs if Colorado Cyclist doesn't have them

• FYI. The The White Industries ENO hub is designed to allow chain tension adjustment with a frame which has vertical dropouts without using a chain tensioner dongle -- I think that the current retail price of the ENO rear hub is about $200 +/-, so it is far from the least expensive option.

There are other mail order retailers (e.g., Cambria Bicycle Outfitters) from whom you may want to get your components.

While there are always changing spec's, the MAJORITY of components can be considered to be standardized (for the moment) ...

• match the headset to the type the frame uses (i.e., internal/external/whatever)
• match the fork to the type the frame uses (e.g., straight 1 1/8 steerer, or not)
• FOX probably still makes the best rear shock
• 'I' think MARZOCCHI forks are typically better (they tend to be a bit more robust because Marzocchi's technology was originally derived from their motorcycle forks, so that may be an unnecessary consideration), but any fork which retails for more than $300 (?) will probably be good

Your wallet is the limitation.

 

[kotterr]

Originally Posted by alfeng .

Check both EXCEL SPORTS & COLORADO CYCLIST ...

Combined, they will have everything you will need ...

• EXCEL should have the 135mm SURLY & WHITE INDUSTRIES ENO hubs if Colorado Cyclist doesn't have them

• FYI. The The White Industries ENO hub is designed to allow chain tension adjustment with a frame which has vertical dropouts without using a chain tensioner dongle -- I think that the current retail price of the ENO rear hub is about $200 +/-, so it is far from the least expensive option.

There are other mail order retailers (e.g., Cambria Bicycle Outfitters) from whom you may want to get your components.

While there are always changing spec's, the MAJORITY of components can be considered to be standardized (for the moment) ...

• match the headset to the type the frame uses (i.e., internal/external/whatever)
• match the fork to the type the frame uses (e.g., straight 1 1/8 steerer, or not)
• FOX probably still makes the best rear shock
• 'I' think MARZOCCHI forks are typically better (they tend to be a bit more robust because Marzocchi's technology was originally derived from their motorcycle forks, so that may be an unnecessary consideration), but any fork which retails for more than $300 (?) will probably be good

Your wallet is the limitation.

That's useful information, but from a mechanical standpoint, what is wrong with the following: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/bullseye.htm

Obviously, I've given up on steel rims since it seems they don't exist. That one there has all I need. Cheap, regular wheels, dual disc brakes, single speed. What can go wrong with it?

 

[alienator]

That's useful information, but from a mechanical standpoint, what is wrong with the following: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/bullseye.htm Obviously, I've given up on steel rims since it seems they don't exist. That one there has all I need. Cheap, regular wheels, dual disc brakes, single speed. What can go wrong with it?

There's likely nothing wrong with it. Bikes Direct is known of having inexpensive, quality bikes. If there is any problem with Bikes Direct it is that often their bikes need to be gone over as their assembly standards aren't the best. That's not a big deal for a home mechanic, and if you need to take it to an LBS for some adjustments, it won't cost much.

 

[vspa]

buy it then,

 

[alfeng]

Originally Posted by kotterr .


That's useful information, but from a mechanical standpoint, what is wrong with the following: http://www.bikesdirect.com/products/dawes/bullseye.htm

Obviously, I've given up on steel rims since it seems they don't exist. That one there has all I need. Cheap, regular wheels, dual disc brakes, single speed. What can go wrong with it?

As long as you have abandoned the need for Full Suspension, then there is NOTHING WRONG with that DAWES 29er for the type of riding which you have described that you are planning -- it looks good to me.

• if you aren't taking it off-road, then I suspect that you'll want a larger chainring & new (longer) chain
• choose the frame size based on the top tube -- if you normally ride a LARGE 26er, then you will probably want a MEDIUM 29er

BTW. 27" steel rims are out there ... but, I don't think they are necessarily stronger than good alloy rims if you are planning on thrashing your way through pot holes ... as I stated earlier, I think that the fattest tires you can manage will be more beneficial toward protecting the rims.

 

[kotterr]

Originally Posted by alfeng .


As long as you have abandoned the need for Full Suspension, then there is NOTHING WRONG with that DAWES 29er for the type of riding which you have described that you are planning -- it looks good to me.

• if you aren't taking it off-road, then I suspect that you'll want a larger chainring & new (longer) chain
• choose the frame size based on the top tube -- if you normally ride a LARGE 26er, then you will probably want a MEDIUM 29er

BTW. 27" steel rims are out there ... but, I don't think they are necessarily stronger than good alloy rims if you are planning on thrashing your way through pot holes ... as I stated earlier, I think that the fattest tires you can manage will be more beneficial toward protecting the rims.

It's not that I don't want full suspension, it's just that I'm not willing to spend extra hundreds of dollars to get it. Full suspension helps reduce wheel damage, but it doesn't make wheels last forever as you can obviously tell I know from experience. I'd rather spend the time truing the wheels or spending a few dollars at a mechanic. It's money I would have spent on an FS anyway, right?

That said, if someone can suggest a good assembled bike like that, but with full suspension and a larger chainring, and not for twice as much money, it would definitely help.

Also, if I choose to get that Bullseye, what size should I get? I am about 6 feet tall and have ridden a Forge Sawback 7xx which I liked except for the gear switching system getting messed up.

 

[alfeng]

Originally Posted by kotterr .

It's not that I don't want full suspension, it's just that I'm not willing to spend extra hundreds of dollars to get it. Full suspension helps reduce wheel damage, but it doesn't make wheels last forever as you can obviously tell I know from experience. I'd rather spend the time truing the wheels or spending a few dollars at a mechanic. It's money I would have spent on an FS anyway, right?

That said, if someone can suggest a good assembled bike like that, but with full suspension and a larger chainring, and not for twice as much money, it would definitely help.

Also, if I choose to get that Bullseye, what size should I get? I am about 6 feet tall and have ridden a Forge Sawback 7xx which I liked except for the gear switching system getting messed up.

How long are your anticipated commutes?

And, what is the condition of the road surface?

What is your anticipated budget?

FWIW. I recommend that you consider opting for a MEDIUM 29er ...

• you can always swap the stem to one that is longer in the future if you are so inclined ...
• also, consider buying an appropriate spoke wrench + a PARK TOOLS tensiometer (~$70 +/-) and learn how to true your own wheels PLUS whatever tools your bike needs to keep it up to snuff

YOU can replace the 18t Freewheel with one which has 16t before you opt for a larger chainring ...

• a 46t chainring with either an 18t or 16t Freewheel may give you the gearing you want

Otherwise, you can readily find Road cranksets which use the ISIS BB on eBay 24/7.

FWIW. Just for your reference, here is a MTB (26er) frame set up with a Road crankset + 700c wheels...



I needed to use a longer spindled BB which would normally be used with a Triple crankset to ensure that the 52t chainring would clear the chainstay ...

BUT, some MTB frames like the following can use a regular Road crank ...



So, whatever bike you get, you'll just have to see what Crank-and-BB combination will work if a 46t chainring isn't large enough.

BTW. IMO, one of the more difficult things about a Single Speed is deciding on the gearing that makes the most sense for the type of roadways-or-trails one anticipates riding on.