"VisionSet" <
[email protected]> wrote in message news:<uoycc.81$nl6.73@newsfe1-win>...
> "Nigel Grinter" <[email protected]> wrote in message
> news:[email protected]...
>
> > use the method
> > described in 'The Book': increase tension until the wheel begins to
> > distort when stress-relieved, then back off tension half a turn all
> > round and re-true.
>
> Could you rephrase that for the benefit of someone who can true wheels, but
> would like to go a step further back and ensure all the spokes are correctly
> tensioned.
> Particularly the part:
>
> > until the wheel begins to distort when stress-relieved
>
> I have a stock set up of Mavic CXP23 on Sora
Stress relieving involves grasping pairs of nearly-parallel spokes on
opposite sides of the wheel (one pair in each hand) and squeezing them
together HARD - you need to wear gloves to do this properly without
hurting your hands. If the wheel has not been previously
stress-relieved, it may go significantly out of true following this
treatment. After re-truing, however, the wheel should be hardly
affected by further stress-relieving. During the building process and
after the wheel is quite tight, 'The Book' recommends increasing
tension in small increments all round (quarter of a turn) and
stress-relieving. If you reach a point where the wheel suddenly goes
significantly out of true following stress relief, this indicates the
wheel is overtensioned and you need to back off about one half turn
all round before re-truing and stress-relieving a final time.
Hope this makes sense. If you want the full story, buy 'The Book'.
Nigel Grinter
Spokesperson
Well-Spoken Wheels