"VisionSet" <
[email protected]> wrote in message news:<uoycc.81$nl6.73@newsfe1-win>...
> "Nigel Grinter" <
[email protected]> wrote in message
>
news:[email protected]...
>
> > use the method described in 'The Book': increase tension
> > until the wheel begins to distort when stress-relieved,
> > then back off tension half a turn all round and re-true.
>
> Could you rephrase that for the benefit of someone who can
> true wheels, but would like to go a step further back and
> ensure all the spokes are correctly tensioned.
> Particularly the part:
>
> > until the wheel begins to distort when stress-relieved
>
> I have a stock set up of Mavic CXP23 on Sora
Stress relieving involves grasping pairs of nearly-parallel
spokes on opposite sides of the wheel (one pair in each
hand) and squeezing them together HARD - you need to wear
gloves to do this properly without hurting your hands. If
the wheel has not been previously stress-relieved, it may go
significantly out of true following this treatment. After
re-truing, however, the wheel should be hardly affected by
further stress-relieving. During the building process and
after the wheel is quite tight, 'The Book' recommends
increasing tension in small increments all round (quarter of
a turn) and stress-relieving. If you reach a point where the
wheel suddenly goes significantly out of true following
stress relief, this indicates the wheel is overtensioned and
you need to back off about one half turn all round before
re-truing and stress-relieving a final time.
Hope this makes sense. If you want the full story, buy
'The Book'.
Nigel Grinter Spokesperson Well-Spoken Wheels
