Measuring chain tretch and cog (cluster) wear

HI guys

It is me again, how do one measure chain stretch and what is the cutoff point where one replaces. A publication I have at home mentions a certain number of links and then stretch should not be more than a certain lenght. Is there chain measuring guages available?? like in a go no go situation??? How does one measure or decide when a casette has worn to much, compare it to a new one, what is permissable wear???

Thanx and keep those wheel turning

Big H

 

Here's a nice article regarding chain and sprocket wear by the doctor himself, Sheldon Brown.

Click here...

Hope it sheds some light

 

Hi H, I've forgotten the figures for chain stretch, fractions of an inch per foot, or millimetres per metre. Yes, there are chain wear gauges available, I saw it mentioned somewhere, but ... dang memory again! Doesn't help you much. Should be listed somewhere in a catalogue at your LBS.
One way to check chain stretch was to drive two nails or panel pins about an inch apart into a piece of wood, and hang a new and the old chain on the nails, side by side. Then compare the two. I'd say, roughly, if the old chain is half a link longer over say, a foot 300 m/m, then its most likely worn out. At any rate, you'll be shocked by the difference between the two.
What about if you checked a website? Renolds chains, Sram? Also, have a look at Sheldon Brown's website. He's bound to have something about chain wear. Cheers.

 

they say if you can catch it before it gets to 1% stretch then change it then

there is a device i saw once that measures stretch just put on chain and it will tell you if .75% or 1% stretch if more than that it needs doing...

from park tools i think it was...

as for worn cassettes... look at the teeth on them if they look hooked then replace...

as a general rule... when replacing chain replace cassette and also any worn chainrings if any on the front.... the reason for this is simple... put a new chain on worn parts it wears faster also wearing out the worn parts more, so costs more to replace as then you bought an extra chain...

sheldon brown has an excellent site....

 

That might be your rule but it's not mine. I change my chain about every 4000 km and a cassette lasts about 3 or 4 chains.

 

yeah, that 'change the cassette with the chain' is nonsense,unless they are both trashed or one just likes to throw away money.Sheldons measuring method is the best.

 

I can see a cassette outlasting a chain, but I have heard (from my highly suspect LBS) that if you put a new cassette on, you should do the chain at the same time. It seems logical, especially since the chain is much less expensive. I think that the shops generally tell you to change the stuff more frequently than you need to. I have 3k miles on my current cassette/chain combo and it's perfectly fine. I plan on going another 2-3k miles on it. I do take apart the cassette every couple weeks and give it a thorough degreasing/cleaning as well as the chain and on inspection it looks brand new.

 

Here's that tool. It's a Park CC-3 ...

http://www.parktool.com/tools/CC_3.shtml
http://www.nashbar.com/profile.cfm?...and=&sku=11164&storetype=&estoreid=&pagename=

The only reason to replace a cassette or chainring is due to wear or when somebody wants to change their gearing. A worn drivetrain is usually the result of a worn chain.

Provided a worn chain hasn't been allowed to trash the rest of the drivetrain there is no reason to go with a 1:1 ratio for chain:cassette replacement.

 

I use the Park tool chain gauge. It works well, and is easier and more accurate than other chain wear measurements.

If you keep yr chain clean, well lubed and the cassete clean should last a very long time. I put in 10000 klm before I even look for wear on the teeth.
YannisG

 

I only change the cassette if I start noticing shifting problems. Also I have that park tool chain measurer and its nice.

 

Actually, a decent ruler is much better.

 

I disagree. A chain measuring gauge is way more accurate and quicker. It also prevents your fingers getting plastered in oil. A chain is best measured under load and a gauge can do that, a ruler can't.


Bill.

 

You could learn alot from Sheldon Brown if you had any grey matter to work with.

 

Yup. If you say so. Funny how everyone else here recommends a chain wear gauge. Weird. Eh boudreaux?

Bill.

 

Why not? Ya get on your bike, press down on the pedal and measure with a good metal ruler. You never have to touch the chain.

 

Good point. But then you've the ball-ache of remembering how many links to measure and what the measurement should be. With a chain gauge, get it from your tool box, slap it on your chain, instant answer. Much easier.

Bill.

 

BwaaaaaaaaHaHaHaHaHaHa!!!... ...Life is better with more grey matter.Trust boudreaux on this one.

 

It doesn't matter how many links you measure if you have a 6" metal ruler that's ground on both ends. Lay the smart end of the ruler against the edge of one pin and if more than half of the pin at the other end is showing, it's time to start thinking about a new chain. That's about as instant as it gets.

 

At first you where arguing with me because you thought I was wrong in another post, then another post after that. Now you're arguing over a difference in opinion? What's your problem? No friends, not enough enemies, or is your so-called grey-matter so twisted you have put down anyone who disagrees with you? Obviously you have much growing up to do little boy. Go away and eat your porridge. Then come back when you have developed some degree of respect to other people.

Bill.

 

Maybe that will happen when you get a brain. And you know what they say about 'opinions' ....LOL