Money & gear
- Thread starter smittymac
- Start date
Lots.
- Helmet
- shoes
- nicks (1 or 2)
- jersey (1 or 2)
- socks
- computer
- gloves
- water bottle holder & bidon
- tools / spares
- eye protection
- etc.
Save, at the very least 250-3
- Helmet
- shoes
- nicks (1 or 2)
- jersey (1 or 2)
- socks
- computer
- gloves
- water bottle holder & bidon
- tools / spares
- eye protection
- etc.
Save, at the very least 250-3
$300 shoes or $70 shoes, name brand clothes or off-brand. Pick a number, it will be right. The place to not cheap out are shoes and shorts since they are the main contact points. Check some of the online retailers like Performance and Nashbar for their house branded clothing.Walrus said:
You really don't have to go out and buy all the expensive stuff all at once, a pair of padded cycling shorts might help, but you cat ride in underarmor, dristar, and any cheap athletic wear you can pick up at Wal-Mart. I assembled my "collection" over time. I only had one jersey for a while and 2 pairs of cheap wal-mart cycling shorts, a cheap cyclocomputer, cheap helment, cheap eye wear and gloves. Cycling gear is EXPENSIVE, only buy what you need and shop around before buying a bunch of overpriced gear.
If you are going to do a lot of riding, don't skimp on shoes. You need to insist on rigid soles. If they are flexible, you can bruise your feet. If it is going to take a few months to build up to long rides, you can put off buying an expensive shoe. But you will eventually want a good shoe if you do a lot of riding.
Good shorts are a must, as is a helmet and tire pump, spare tube and inflater for flats. After that, jerseys and gloves all the rest are nice but not necessary. Someday you can get those, but they can wait for now.
At my LBS, we cut out the middle-man, and now my paycheck is direct deposited into their account.
Tailwinds!
Good shorts are a must, as is a helmet and tire pump, spare tube and inflater for flats. After that, jerseys and gloves all the rest are nice but not necessary. Someday you can get those, but they can wait for now.
At my LBS, we cut out the middle-man, and now my paycheck is direct deposited into their account.
Tailwinds!
Your going to spend a lot of money to get started right. If you are not in good shape like I wasn't when I started you don't need the swiftest shiniest bike. In fact I think its better to start off with a solid middle of the road bike like a Felt F65 (my first bike after I spent a year on my old steel schwinn Traveler when I started back biking in 2003). You will work harder to pedal a less technically advanced bike and you will be exhillerated when you graduate to a bike that matches the skill and fitness level you built on first bike.
All the other advice on gear is great.
1. Stiff shoes that fit perfectly WITH CLIPPLESS PEDALS. Go ahead and get used to riding with cleats- you will eventually want them anyway. If they don't fit perfectly you will get the dreaded numb toes after about 10 miles. I didn't believe it and bought shoes that were too narrow - numb toes.
2. Buy two pair of really good riding shorts. Nashbar makes tons of $20 riding shorts that you won't mind riding the seams out of and they are very comfortable for the 10 to 30 mile rides that you'll probably do your first year
3. A bike bag and tire repair kit.
4. Safety light
5. Helmet. I rode with a Bell Furio ($20) for a long time then graduated up to a little more expensive helmet ($100) - couldn't really tell the difference. Get a $20 Bell.
6. Cycle computer. Get one. It'll let you gauge your improvement and motivate you when you get better.
Good choice on sports to start up for the new year. Good Luck
All the other advice on gear is great.
1. Stiff shoes that fit perfectly WITH CLIPPLESS PEDALS. Go ahead and get used to riding with cleats- you will eventually want them anyway. If they don't fit perfectly you will get the dreaded numb toes after about 10 miles. I didn't believe it and bought shoes that were too narrow - numb toes.
2. Buy two pair of really good riding shorts. Nashbar makes tons of $20 riding shorts that you won't mind riding the seams out of and they are very comfortable for the 10 to 30 mile rides that you'll probably do your first year
3. A bike bag and tire repair kit.
4. Safety light
5. Helmet. I rode with a Bell Furio ($20) for a long time then graduated up to a little more expensive helmet ($100) - couldn't really tell the difference. Get a $20 Bell.
6. Cycle computer. Get one. It'll let you gauge your improvement and motivate you when you get better.
Good choice on sports to start up for the new year. Good Luck
AS well as decent cleat shoes and shorts, I'd suggest gloves, helmet and lights are vital - as safety items.
The helmet and lights are are obvious, but I found that gloves are vital too.
One day I misplaced one of my gloves. After about 5-10 minutes I was dripping wet with perspiration, and my left hand was horribly cramped from gripping by now very slippery bar. By about 30 minutes and the fast downhill section the hand was excruciating and I was getting really concerned about probably not being able to hang on to the bike if I had to brake suddenly!
Was very relieved when I found the missing glove at home... in my backpack
The helmet and lights are are obvious, but I found that gloves are vital too.
One day I misplaced one of my gloves. After about 5-10 minutes I was dripping wet with perspiration, and my left hand was horribly cramped from gripping by now very slippery bar. By about 30 minutes and the fast downhill section the hand was excruciating and I was getting really concerned about probably not being able to hang on to the bike if I had to brake suddenly!
Was very relieved when I found the missing glove at home... in my backpack
I have a wide foot and both the shimano and nike shoes are too tight for me. I think that the stiffness of the soles makes the width more of an issue for road shoes than in other types of shoes.smittymac said:
My point here is that you won't know a shoe doesnt fit you well (or that you have a relatively wide foot) until you have bought a pair and put a few miles in them. I don't wear wide in anything other than road cycling shoes.
Sidi probably has the best comfort reputation around. I personally have never tried them, but everyone else at the shop I work at uses them.smittymac said:
I have nike lance II shoes and I'm thrilled with them. Very stiff, and very comfortable. If you have a wide foot, though, you probably will not be able to stay in nikes. They all run a little narrow.
Gloves-nice to have if you have tender hands, but not necessary. I don't even own a pair of cut off finger gloves. In the winter I have a pair of trek full fingers that I use. Try riding without gloves before investing in some. I personally don't like wearing gloves. Just feels like I don't have the control that I have without them.
Bottle cages should be the FIRST accessory purchase. Its very important to stay hydrated while riding. No need for anything fancy. Basic aluminum cages ($5-$8) will be fine.
Computers can range from $40-$400 and everything in between. If you are just starting get something low end, but try to get one that measures cadence (RPM of your cranks). Cadence is an awesome training tool to have. 90-95rpm is usually considered the most efficient place to be.
I can give you a perspective from someone who grew upon motorcycles but is in his second year of bicycling .
I regard gloves as a bigger safety item than the brain bucket. They give a grip on the bars, and protect the hands in a fall- allowing you to better protect the head - and resume riding quicker post getoff. I don't need cycling specific gloves, but the strategic terrycloth patch is much better than rough stuff for wiping the eyes.
I don't need much shock absorption for the hands as I am in aero most of the time.
I have a fairly standard size 12 foot and have no complaints from some entry level Shimano shoes.
Amen to a cadence counter - it has been invaluable in getting dialed in to what I need to be doing . You start your ride feeling you are turning 90 rpm, but is 76. At rides end you feel you are at 90, but are at 105. It has helped me remain in the "discomfort zone" but free of injury as I use riding to rehab an old "kneezle"
My main activity is marathon canoe racing , so we have had to improvise with gear. Cycling is much more mainstream, and the products refined. You will be impressed with the improved quality of gear as the price tag goes up.
For now it's all going to hurt,so cheap is OK.
I regard gloves as a bigger safety item than the brain bucket. They give a grip on the bars, and protect the hands in a fall- allowing you to better protect the head - and resume riding quicker post getoff. I don't need cycling specific gloves, but the strategic terrycloth patch is much better than rough stuff for wiping the eyes.
I don't need much shock absorption for the hands as I am in aero most of the time.
I have a fairly standard size 12 foot and have no complaints from some entry level Shimano shoes.
Amen to a cadence counter - it has been invaluable in getting dialed in to what I need to be doing . You start your ride feeling you are turning 90 rpm, but is 76. At rides end you feel you are at 90, but are at 105. It has helped me remain in the "discomfort zone" but free of injury as I use riding to rehab an old "kneezle"
My main activity is marathon canoe racing , so we have had to improvise with gear. Cycling is much more mainstream, and the products refined. You will be impressed with the improved quality of gear as the price tag goes up.
For now it's all going to hurt,so cheap is OK.
I must say that gloves, for me, are a comfort item as I have carpel tunnel issues but the other side of gloves is a safety issue. Gloves protect your hands in case of an accident. When you fall, your instinct is to put your hands out to catch yourself. Gloves will keep the gravel out of your hands!
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