Mounting the 29er (with a guy question)

Discussion in 'rec.sport.unicycling' started by Phuni, Aug 27, 2004.

  1. Phuni

    Phuni Guest

    I recently bought a Yuni 29er with the Big Apple tyre and KH saddle.
    It's a great ride and I really enjoy it much more than my beat up old
    24" Schwinn.

    What are your favorite mounting techniques for the 29er? I used to do a
    static mount with great success on the 24", but it doesn't seem too be
    user-friendly on the 29er. So far, the best results have come with a
    rollback mount and the mount where you take three steps and then get on
    (a rolling mount?).

    Finally, a guy question. I've been suffering from CTS (Crushed Testicle
    Syndrome) in learning to mount the 29er. Any suggestions?

    Thanks,
    Phil


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  2. JJuggle

    JJuggle Guest

    I exclusively do the rollback mount on a 29er. I find that with the KH
    saddle, as opposed to the Viscounts on all my other unis, I'm able to
    sit back and high on it with most of the contact on my rear and much
    less weight on my nuts. I don't know how consistently this can be done
    with a rolling mount, but with the rollback try starting with the back
    of the saddle tucked under your rear; this rather than positioning your
    crotch in the middle of the saddle. I find it much more comfortable that
    sitting centered in the seat.

    Raphael Lasar
    Matawan, NJ


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  3. Klaas Bil

    Klaas Bil Guest

    Phuni wrote:
    > *What are your favorite mounting techniques for the 29er? I used to
    > do a static mount with great success on the 24", but it doesn't seem
    > too be user-friendly on the 29er. So far, the best results have come
    > with a rollback mount and the mount where you take three steps and
    > then get on (a rolling mount?).*

    The rolling mount (yes, that's what it's called) is fine for
    larger-wheel unicycles. Personally, I prefer a static mount on the
    29'er, you just have to increase the force on the first pedal as
    compared to the 24" or the wheel will move out from under you to the
    front. Also, don't push the seat to the front with your crotch while
    mounting, but instead get most of the required body momentum from
    jumping off the ground with your second foot, if that makes sense.

    It also depends on crank length. With short cranks (e.g. 110, 102 or
    even shorter), the increased first-pedal force is even more required.

    Klaas Bil


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  4. teachndad

    teachndad Guest

    I have been swapping seats lately between the unis in my stable and I
    just swapped out a miyata airseat that used the orginal plastic base for
    a KH seat. The first time I mounted the 29er I mounted it with a
    "crushing blow". The trough in the KH seat, IMHO, is very deep compared
    to the airseat combo I had. I think this is a contributing factor to
    your "package" getting smashed. I am still having problems with this,
    but I adjust "things" as I am starting off and then I am comfy. But,
    it's still a "pain" to get everything settled. Once in the seat, it is
    very comfortable.

    So, maybe you can get a torker seat, that's which ever one is the miyata
    copy, then convert it to an airseat. But, that costs more cash.

    I don't do a roll back mount on the 29er - I can't. I just mount with a
    static mount, if that's what it is called. I can't do the rollback
    mount because I can't get the torque to do a roll back mount. I jump up
    on the uni with the cranks at 3 and 9 o'clock.
    I run 140mm cranks.

    I never tried this, but what about putting the tire back against a curb
    and then trying the mount that way. You won't get the roll back mount,
    but you crotch will be higher and you can adjust things before you even
    get on the 29er.


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    teachndad - aka The Munieer

    Rod Wylie

    'MountainUnicyclingLA.com' (http://www.mountainunicycling.us)
    'Greater Los Angeles Area Trails - Images' (http://tinyurl.com/4otql)
    'Greater Los Angeles Area Trails - Descriptions'
    (http://tinyurl.com/6h8zn)

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  5. onewheeldave

    onewheeldave Guest

    I usually use the static mount on my 29-er, it works fine (especially
    now I've got

    150mm cranks on it).


    One tweak that I've found very useful with this mount is, after
    positioning the

    seat (to save damage to testes, position the seat too far back between
    your legs,

    then pull it forward, sweeping them out of harms way) and just prior to
    performing

    the mount, push the uni forwards slightly.


    This push seems to make the pedals stay where you want them for longer
    (i.e.

    horizontal) and, for me, works really well.


    The amount of push depends on the circumstances, a bigger push makes
    mounting

    facing up an incline possible.


    Err on the side of caution initially though, too big a push could result
    in you

    going right ovcer the top of the uni.


    I can, and sometimes do, use to rollback mount, but feel that the static
    is more

    usefull, especially on inclines.


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  6. Phuni

    Phuni Guest

    All of your responses have been very interesting to read. Regarding
    mounting techniques, it seems that it's a matter of preference, although
    many of the responses have favored the static mount. I printed out the
    thread so far and went out to try some of these ideas.

    With the static mount, I still have trouble getting the necessary
    momentum to get up on the higher 29" wheel (as opposed to the 24"). I
    have my left foot on the ground when starting...I guess I need to "push
    off" more forcefully to get up and rolling. I can achieve it sometimes,
    but it will take practice.

    What seems interesting about the static mount techniques articulated so
    far is that it appears that it's best to *not* initially put one's
    weight into the saddle on the mount. Klaas Bil said, "Also, don't push
    the seat to the front with your crotch while mounting, but instead get
    most of the required body momentum from jumping off the ground with your
    second foot...." Does this mean I should try to "jump up" onto the
    saddle and not "sit into it"? I can hear my testicles applauding that
    idea, but I'm not sure I've got it right.

    I agree with Rod Wylie that the KH saddle makes for a comfortable ride
    but a tricky freemount because of the deep trough. Switching it out to
    an air saddle sounds ideal (I just need another 100 bucks or so if I'm
    going to buy it direct from the good people at unicycle.com).

    onewheeldave's ideas about pulling the seat through to position the
    family jewels is interesting. I usually wear an athletic supporter
    (a.k.a. "jock") and this technique seems tough to do when wearing one.
    I tried another version of the same idea, though, just by pulling the
    crotch through by hand. It works, but I have to admit it's a bit
    explicit.

    I love hearing all this stuff. I hope there are even more opinions out
    there!

    Best,
    Phil
    Indianapolis IN


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  7. Ken Cline

    Ken Cline Guest

    "Phuni" <[email protected]> writes:

    > With the static mount, I still have trouble getting the necessary
    > momentum to get up on the higher 29" wheel (as opposed to the 24"). I
    > have my left foot on the ground when starting...I guess I need to "push
    > off" more forcefully to get up and rolling. I can achieve it sometimes,
    > but it will take practice.


    Once you get good it will be more technique than force. I find that
    rolling the uni forward and then stepping up into a static mount is
    one of the easiest (least physical) methods for mounting. The
    momentum of the wheel lets you press down on the pedal long enough to
    get the second foot in place ... then you can sit down in the saddle
    comforatbly.

    Ken
     
  8. Klaas Bil

    Klaas Bil Guest

    On Sat, 28 Aug 2004 12:56:07 -0500, "Phuni" wrote:

    >Klaas Bil said, "Also, don't push
    >the seat to the front with your crotch while mounting, but instead get
    >most of the required body momentum from jumping off the ground with your
    >second foot...." Does this mean I should try to "jump up" onto the
    >saddle and not "sit into it"? I can hear my testicles applauding that
    >idea, but I'm not sure I've got it right.


    Try to jump up? No, at least not in the way of a jump mount. What I
    meant was do a static mount. So you have the seat between your legs
    (against your crotch) to start with. Now if you start the mount and
    you put too much pressure on the seat during the mount process, the
    wheel will be pushed forward. That means that the 'first' pedal will
    rise, and if it gets near the top you can't control it anymore and the
    uni will shoot to the front and fall. So: less pressure on the seat,
    more jumping off the ground with the second foot instead. And more
    pressure on the first pedal is allowed, as the uni will not tend (so
    much) to shoot from under you to the rear as a smaller wheel does.

    When I learned the static mount on a 24" (and on a 20" the effect was
    even more pronounced), I had difficulty preventing to put too much
    force on the first pedal. My natural inclination was to step on the
    first pedal as if I stepped onto something solid, but that caused the
    uni to shoot from under me to the back.

    With a 29'er and 125 mm cranks, the old natural inclination works
    better. When mounting the 29'er after I had gotten used to mounting
    20" and 24", I had to relearn the old natural inclination. Now I can
    mix them all.

    Phew, what a babble! Hope it helps.

    Klaas Bil - Newsgroup Addict
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