MTB - New Fork or New Bike?



> Is the cheapest solution to upgrade this bike, or will I get the best value
> buying a new one? Do Giant and the other bike makers have a different frame
> for every different range of bike or do they fit different level components
> to the same frame? I suppose a third option would be to upgrade all the
> components I break on this bike and get a new frame if I decide the bike's
> being let down by the frame. Is the LBS likely to be worth asking.



Howabout getting the new bike and as part of the deal asking the LBS
if they have an old pair of rigid forks to fit to the old bike to be
used as a hack.
One can never have too many bikes.
Iain
 
ZeeExSixAre wrote:
>> Is the cheapest solution to upgrade this bike, or will I get the best
>> value buying a new one? Do Giant and the other bike makers have a
>> different frame for every different range of bike or do they fit
>> different level components to the same frame? I suppose a third
>> option would be to upgrade all the components I break on this bike
>> and get a new frame if I decide the bike's being let down by the
>> frame. Is the LBS likely to be worth asking.

>
> Definitely upgrade to a new bike. The Boulder is the
> bottom-of-the-line out of Giant's offerings. We sell them as
> back-to-school bikes that whose primary purpose is to get left out in
> the rain.
>
> Having said that, if you're tight on cash, then a rigid fork is
> definitely the answer! The reason is, if you're breaking forks on
> these bikes (often the first thing to go on these low-cost bikes)
> then that means you're exceeding the intended use, which is, in all
> honesty, city riding and very light trail riding. A rigid fork has
> virtually nothing to go wrong with it, and any new low-cost
> suspension fork is probably going to break just like your current
> fork. Upgrading the whole bike is a sound decision at this point.


If I upgrade the bike, I reckon I'll be waiting until next year's models
come through and I can get one cheapo. I don't want to buy a bike and in 6
months see that I could have had it a load cheaper. I reckon a half decent
second hand fork is what I want now - rigid forks seem to be marketed as
"super super strong / light" and hence aren't *that* cheap. I'm also not
entirely sure there's much point in upgrading to a better / lighter bike at
the moment as I'm not tremendously light, or a particularly skilful rider.

> If you want to stay in the Giant line (which I recommend), you may
> want to look into the Iguana. It has a non-**** fork that will last
> longer than what you ad on the Boulder, plus disc brakes if that's
> your thing, and decent-quality components.


What difference will I see with better components? Obviously the bike's
going to be lighter, but does stuff work better / differently?
 
Doki said...

> The current fork has about 50mm of travel - would I get away with an 80mm
> travel fork or would this **** things up? The LBS bloke reckons I could just
> alter the preload to drop the front if things seemed a bit high at the
> front.


You can add more sag (up to the maximum recommended by the manual), but
I strongly doubt you will notice going from 50mm to 80mm. I went from 80
to 125 and liked the change. It was a more subtle change than I thought
it would be.

> > Alternatively pickup a pair of rigids.

>
> Certainly the cheapest and lightest option, but I'd like to be vaguely
> comfy.


I would take a rigid fork over a cheap suspension fork any day. I went
to suspension because my rigid bike started giving me back pain. But
there are a lot of advantages to rigid--weight, cost, zero maintenance,
stiffness, durability etc.
 
in message <[email protected]>, Doki
('[email protected]') wrote:

> What difference will I see with better components? Obviously the
> bike's going to be lighter, but does stuff work better / differently?


Yes. Good suspension (particularly air suspension) is silky smooth and
progressive in response, and damps out motion smoothly and quickly. The
best modern suspension is extremely good and really makes a huge
difference in the rough stuff. A good drive train gives extremely
positive and reliable shifting.

--
[email protected] (Simon Brooke) http://www.jasmine.org.uk/~simon/

Morning had broken, and we had run out of gas for the welding torch.
 
Doki wrote:
> ZeeExSixAre wrote:
>>> Is the cheapest solution to upgrade this bike, or will I get the
>>> best value buying a new one? Do Giant and the other bike makers
>>> have a different frame for every different range of bike or do they
>>> fit different level components to the same frame? I suppose a third
>>> option would be to upgrade all the components I break on this bike
>>> and get a new frame if I decide the bike's being let down by the
>>> frame. Is the LBS likely to be worth asking.

>>
>> Definitely upgrade to a new bike. The Boulder is the
>> bottom-of-the-line out of Giant's offerings. We sell them as
>> back-to-school bikes that whose primary purpose is to get left out in
>> the rain.
>>
>> Having said that, if you're tight on cash, then a rigid fork is
>> definitely the answer! The reason is, if you're breaking forks on
>> these bikes (often the first thing to go on these low-cost bikes)
>> then that means you're exceeding the intended use, which is, in all
>> honesty, city riding and very light trail riding. A rigid fork has
>> virtually nothing to go wrong with it, and any new low-cost
>> suspension fork is probably going to break just like your current
>> fork. Upgrading the whole bike is a sound decision at this point.

>
> If I upgrade the bike, I reckon I'll be waiting until next year's
> models come through and I can get one cheapo. I don't want to buy a
> bike and in 6 months see that I could have had it a load cheaper. I
> reckon a half decent second hand fork is what I want now - rigid
> forks seem to be marketed as "super super strong / light" and hence
> aren't *that* cheap. I'm also not entirely sure there's much point in
> upgrading to a better / lighter bike at the moment as I'm not
> tremendously light, or a particularly skilful rider.
>
>> If you want to stay in the Giant line (which I recommend), you may
>> want to look into the Iguana. It has a non-**** fork that will last
>> longer than what you ad on the Boulder, plus disc brakes if that's
>> your thing, and decent-quality components.

>
> What difference will I see with better components? Obviously the
> bike's going to be lighter, but does stuff work better / differently?


Gwood actually gave a really good suggestion when he said to look into used
bikes. A great-quality older bike depreciates like crazy, and you can often
get a 2-year-old bike with an excellent ride for pennies on the dollar.

Stuff works a little better, and often the ergonomics are better, but you're
mainly paying for the weight reduction. Stick with what you have if you
like it... I feel that a rider really KNOWS when they need a new bike.
--
Phil, Squid-in-Training
 
ZeeExSixAre wrote:
> Doki wrote:
>
>> What difference will I see with better components? Obviously the
>> bike's going to be lighter, but does stuff work better / differently?

>
> Gwood actually gave a really good suggestion when he said to look
> into used bikes. A great-quality older bike depreciates like crazy,
> and you can often get a 2-year-old bike with an excellent ride for
> pennies on the dollar.
>
> Stuff works a little better, and often the ergonomics are better, but
> you're mainly paying for the weight reduction. Stick with what you
> have if you like it... I feel that a rider really KNOWS when they
> need a new bike.


I certainly agree on the second hand bike front - I very often see very nice
bikes in the local ads paper selling at half their original price, having
been ridden once or twice. That said, at the moment it's going to be a lot
cheaper and easier to lose a pound off the rider than it is to lose a pound
off the bike. Reckon it's time for me to hunt down some second hand parts.